. This book was published by 財團法人台灣養殖魚業發展基金會 in 2012 and the English parts were written/translated by me. There will be five (more) of these entries, covering the ports in Kaohsiung, south Tainan and Taitung that I didn't get to during the years I lived in Pingtung..
前鎮旗津漁樂線
Portside Fun in Qianzhen and Qijin
高雄 , 擁有台灣最大的港口 , 海濱與港灣的繁榮景象 , 加上與漁業相關的修船 , 造船 , 冷凍 , 加工和運輸等各行各業遍佈四周 , 是全台灣最有漁業色彩的地方 , 商運 , 貨運 , 漁業 , 船舶等 , 都可以在港埠區 , 發現精采 ! Kaohsiung has always had the largest port in Taiwan, a port which features both a scenic coastline and a prosperous harbor. In addition, several port-related industries can be found here, including fishing, ship repair, shipbuilding, refrigeration, processing and transportation. [Kaohsiung] is a place strongly influenced by the fishing industry, with commercial transportation, shipping, and other nautical ventures all found within the area. It's a great place to be!
近年來高雄的發展 , 朝向綠色 , 生態 , 科技 , 文化與自然的方向邁進 , 加上來自遠洋的鮪魚 、 旗魚 、魷魚 、 秋刀魚等豐厚的魚貨在此卸貨 , 純情又熱情的海港城市 , 堆疊出屬於自己獨特風貌的魅力 , 豐富的歷史人文 , 山海資源 , 絕對令你留下美好難忘的回憶 ! In recent years Kaohsiung's development has been geared toward green energy, ecology, technology, culture and [preservation of] green [spaces]. Abundant fishery products such as tuna, sailfish, squid and Pacific saury are all offloaded here from the deep sea. This innocent and welcoming seaport city has its own unique charm and style, its own rich history, and its own culture. Kaohsiung is a product of the mountains and sea [which surround it]. It will leave you with beautiful memories that you'll carry with you forever.
How to go?
如果是南下高雄的民眾 , 可以利用國道一號 , 於中正交流道下進入高雄 ; 如果是北上高雄的民眾 , 可以利用88快速道路往高雄方向接國道一號 , 於中正交流道下進入高雄 ; 其他交通工具可以利用高鐵或台鐵搭至高雄站 , 全台客運系統均可到達 . If you're traveling south to Kaohsiung, you can take the #1 Freeway and exit into the city using the Zhongzheng Interchange. If you're traveling north to Kaohsiung, you can take the 88 Expressway [west] toward the city, and switch onto the #1 Freeway from there, exiting using the Zhongzheng Interchange. Those not driving a car can take High Speed Rail or Taiwan Railways trains to Kaohsiung Station. From [Kaohsiung Station] there are many other transportation options available. (1)
精彩樂活
A Wonderful Life
高雄市歷史博物館 The Kaohsiung City History Museum
舊的高雄市政府變身為 "高雄歷史博物館" , 除了本身擁有歷史性的建築外觀 , 其歷史淵源更是長遠 , 從日治時代的高雄州廳到光復後的高雄市政府 , 一直到至今的 "高雄歷史博物館" , 都是高雄的一部活歷史 , 見證了高雄的生活意涵 . The old Kaohsiung City Hall has been transformed into "The Kaohsiung City History Museum." Aside from the historic building in which the museum is housed, the history of this site also goes back a long way. This history begins with the Kaohsiung State Office established here during the Japanese Colonial Administration, and extends to the Kaohsiung City Government, located here after Taiwan's liberation from Japan. "The Kaohsiung City History Museum" is the most recent addition to this site's long, living history, and as such bears witness to the meaningful nature of life in Kaohsiung. (2)
愛河 Love River
愛河全長約16.4公里 , 發源於高雄仁武區 , 為了提供民眾優質的休憩場所 , 高雄市政府將下游河岸整治成河濱公園 , 讓愛河除了擁有浪漫的河岸風情外 , 目前在愛河沿線也設有多處停靠站 , 供市民搭乘 "愛之船" 瀏覽河岸美景 . The Love River is about 16.4 kilometers long, and its source is in Renwu District. The Kaohsiung City Government turned the lower stretch of the river into a riverside park as a way of enhancing recreational opportunities for people in the city. Aside from romantic walks along the river, there are also many stops from which one can board the "Love Boat" and take in the sights from the water. (3)
駁二藝術特區 Pier 2 Art Center
駁二指的就是第二號接駁碼頭 , 駁二倉庫原本是個因使用功能消失而閒置的港口倉庫 , 而在高雄市政府的規劃下 , 繽紛色彩與藝術文化將老舊換上了創新 , 這裡除了成為藝術家的創作天堂 , 更有樂團的音樂會不定期的演出 , 賦予了碼頭舊倉庫一股新的生命力 . "Pier 2" refers to the No. 2 Connecting Terminal. Pier 2 was originally a port warehouse that went unused for many years. In accordance with the Kaohsiung City Government's plan, colorful paint and works of art were used to rejuvenate this place. It became an artist's paradise, and there are musical performances held here at irregular intervals. Both of these features have given the old warehouse a second lease on life. (4)
真愛碼頭 Love Pier
真愛碼頭原為散裝貨輸碼頭 , 近年轉型為多元海洋特色的 "國際旅客服務中心" , 推動河港交通航線計畫 , 做為河運及港運的轉運站 . 民眾可在這裡悠閒的散步或欣賞愛河的優美 , 更可以搭乘渡輪 , 悠遊愛河與旗津的漁港風光 . Love Pier was originally a bulk cargo terminal. In recent years it has been repurposed as a ocean-themed, multifunctional "International Tourist Service Center." [This service center] promotes the transportation network between the port and the Love River, and also serves as a transportation hub [in its own right]. People can take a relaxing walk here and enjoy the beautiful scenery along the Love River. They can also board a ferry and enjoy the views between the Love River and portside Qijin from the water. (5)
高雄港觀海台 The Kaohsiung Harbor Viewing Platform
高雄觀海台位於高雄港第三號碼頭 , 觀海台前身為香蕉棚 , 為了配合市港合一之政策以及觀光遊憩之需求 , 將香蕉棚規畫為 "觀海台" , 遊客登上觀海台除了可觀賞船舶進出高雄港之全貌也可以遠眺壽山美景 , 另外還可以在此享受美食喔 ! The Kaohsiung Harbor Viewing Platform is on the third pier in the Kaohsiung Port. The Harbor Viewing Platform was the former site of a shed where bananas were stored. In compliance with a port integration policy and a demand for sightseeing and recreation venues in the area, the banana shed was repurposed as a harbor viewing platform. Visitors to this platform can enjoy a panoramic view of ships entering and leaving Kaohsiung Port, with scenic Shou Mountain in the background. They can also enjoy delicious food during their visit.
柴山風景區 Chai Mountain Scenic Area
柴山又稱壽山 , 位於高雄西濱海岸線 , 總面積約有1200公頃 , 保留著相當完整豐富的熱帶珊瑚礁森林生態 , 以及特殊的石灰岩地形景觀 , 最高海拔雖然僅有356公尺 , 卻是高雄天然的屏障 , 目前是高雄熱門的登山健行地區 , 不論清晨或傍晚 , 來此登山健行的遊客絡繹不絕喔 ! Chai Mountain is also known as Shou Mountain. It's on the west coast of Kaohsiung, has a total area of about 1200 hectares, and retains a rich tropical reef forest ecology built upon [a series of] limestone [hills]. Even though its highest elevation is only 356 meters, it still serves as a natural barrier [between] Kaohsiung [and the Taiwan Strait]. It's a popular hiking spot in Kaohsiung, and whether morning or evening a [seemingly] endless stream of tourists come here to hike. (6)
英國領事官邸 The Old British Consul's Residence at Takow (Dagou)
英國領事官邸位於高雄市鼓山區西子灣旁的山丘上 , 循著 "之" 字形台階拾級而上 , 很快的眼前出現一棟充滿異國風情的古老建築映入眼簾 , 雕磨工法與講究的建材 , 半圓拱型迴廊 , 充份展現出當時的建築美感 , 這裡的視野非常遼闊 , 遊客可從這裡俯瞰西子灣 , 台灣海峽也一覽無遺 . The [Old] British Consul's Residence is on a hill to the east of Xidzewan in Gushan District, Kaohsiung City. If you follow the zigzagging steps up the hill you'll find an old, exotic building that brings to mind foreign locales. This structure's carvings, the materials used to build it, and its arched cloisters stand as examples of what thoughtful architects could achieve at the time. The [hilltop] location also offers a wide view of Xidzewan and the Taiwan Strait. (7)
旗津天后宮 Qijin's Queen of Heaven Temple
旗津天后宮是高雄市最古老的寺廟 , 其建廟時間可追溯到清康熙年間 , 相傳當時有位福建漁民在海上遭遇颱風漂至旗后 , 他見到此地山靈水秀 , 於是回到故鄉攜眷來此定居 , 並且迎奉故鄉的湄洲媽祖來台供奉 . 這裡香火鼎盛 , 莊嚴古樸 , 並保存許多歷史文物 , 這裡不僅是旗津漁民信仰中心 , 也成為了旗津人民精神及心靈寄託之所在 . Qijin's Queen of Heaven Temple is the oldest temple in Kaohsiung City. It's construction can be dated back to the reign of Emperor Kangxi, during the Qing Dynasty. According to legend a fisherman from Fujian got caught in a typhoon [in the Taiwan Strait], and later drifted toward Qihou, [the headland at the end of Qijin]. Awestruck by this place where the mountains meet the sea, he returned to Fujian and brought back his family to live on Qijin. He also brought back worship of the goddess Matsu from Meizhou, the town where he lived in Fujian. The Queen of Heaven Temple is a simple, solemn place awash in the smell of incense, and several historical artifacts have been preserved within it. It isn't just a place holy to local fisherman, but also an important spiritual touchstone for everyone living in Qijin.
旗津風車公園 Qijin Windmill Park
旗津風車公園就在旗津海岸公園的南側 , 經過港隨道進入旗津後看見道路左側豎立著七支大風車就代表到囉 ! 旗津風車公園是全國第一座兼具休閒 、 觀光與環保的風力發電休閒公園 , 公園內設置了七座三葉式風車 , 每天利用風力發電來供應公園的照明喔 ! The Qijin Windmill Park is south of the Qijin Seashore Park. After you pass through the tunnel [connecting} Qijin [to the other side of the] port, you'll see seven large windmills on the left side of the road. Qijin Windmill Park is the first park in Taiwan to combine recreation, tourism and wind-powered environmental protection in one location. The park contains seven three-bladed windmills which provide enough power to light the park every night! (8)
旗后燈塔 Qihou Lighthouse
旗后燈塔為三級古蹟 , 從旗津市區有步道可前往燈塔 , 重修後的燈塔塔身為八角形 , 頂部有陽台可供遠眺 , 塔前有座白色的西洋式辦公室 , 展示著燈塔以前所使用過的儀器 , 燈塔照片及位置圖 , 而外面綠意盎然的草坪上 , 還有座日晷儀供人觀賞 . The Qihou Lighthouse is a Level 3 historic site. There's a trail from central Qijin up to the lighthouse. The remodeled lighthouse tower has eight sides, with a balcony from which you can see very far in every direction. In front of the lighthouse tower is a white, Western-style office in which equipment used in the past along with photos and location maps of the lighthouse are displayed. On the green lawn outside there's a sundial for people to admire. (9)
旗津海水浴場 Qijin Beach
這裡是一處有著細沙的美麗海灘 , 每當假日或炎熱的夏季來臨時總是遊客如熾 , 是炎熱高雄地區的消暑勝地 . 進入海水浴場不用門票 , 有沖洗室及洗手間等公共設施 , 請遊客到此戲水時務必於規劃的安全區域戲水 , 並且注意安全喔 ! This is a beautiful beach of fine sand. On every weekend, and during the hot summer months it's thronged with tourists. It's a great place to cool off in hot, humid Kaohsiung. There's no entry fee to use the beach, and both public bathrooms and public showers are available. Tourists visiting this place should only swim in the designated safety area. Be alert for unsafe conditions!
旗津海岸公園 Qijin Seashore Park
旗津海岸公園是高雄市政府於民國82年興建的觀光景點 , 海岸公園佔地大約45公頃 , 包括海水浴場 、 自然生態區 、 越野區 、 觀海景觀步道區等 , 適合全家大小一起同遊 , 公園內另設有觀海平台 , 由十五根桂子支撐著延伸到海裡 , 可以站在這邊見識海浪巨大的衝擊力量 . The Qijin Seashore Park is a tourist destination built by the Kaohsiung City Government in 1993. It's about 45 hectares in area and includes a swimming beach, an ecological area, a cross-country area, trails from which to view the sea, and other amenities. It's a destination suitable for the entire family, complete with an ocean viewpoint beneath cinnamon trees extending into the ocean. Visitors can stand at this viewpoint and experience the power of the huge waves. (10)
饕客必訪: 旗后觀光市場
旗后臨時市場改建的觀光魚市採用太陽能光電綠建築 , 不僅獲得 "2010國家桌越建設獎 " 金質獎 , 外型獨特的魚骨型鋼構造型也成為旗津新地標 . 觀光市場內井然有序的的特色魚貨乾貨伴手禮任你挑選 , 是一個值得造訪的好地方 . The Qihou Tourist Market was built where the Qihou temporary market was previously held. It's powered by solar panels, and received a gold medal in the "2010 International Excellence in Construction Awards." Its unique "steel fishbone" design has made it a new landmark in Qijin. The market has a well-organized selection of seafood, dried goods and other gifts to choose from. It's a place worth visiting.
超低溫新鮮生魚片 Super Low Temperature Sashimi
進入前鎮漁港後 , 除了港口有魚市可以購買新鮮海產以外 , 觀光大船入港與裝載卸貨的畫面也頗為壯觀 . 但是想要輕鬆高雅的品嘗海鮮美味的話 , 就在前鎮漁港內 , 有一處專門販賣頂級超低溫新鮮生魚片喔 ! 這裡無論是鮪魚 、 旗魚還是鮭魚生魚片 , 口口都是滑嫩與鮮甜 , 加上就位在前鎮漁港內 , 因此邊吃生魚片的同時 , 還可以用雙眼亨受漁港的魅力景色喔 ! Upon entering the Qianzhen Fishing Port you'll have the chance to buy fresh seafood from the fish market and watch both large freighters busied with cargo and cruise ships enter the port. But if you want to sample Kaohsiung's seafood in a [more] relaxed setting, just seek out the super low temperature sashimi sold at specialty stores located inside the port. Whether tuna, swordfish or salmon, all of the sashimi found here is tender and fresh. Add to this fact the shop's location inside the Qianzhen Fishing Port, complete with related scenery, and you've got a charming dining experience! (11)
Related Entries 相關的文章:
1. This book was written before the Formosa Freeway (#3) was completed. If you're coming from parts north you'll likely end up on the #3 Freeway at some point, primarily because traffic on the #1 between south Tainan and north Kaohsiung can be very slow. If you're coming from parts south (or east) you're also likely to take the #3 between Nanzhou in Pingtung County and the 88 Expressway. Whatever way you go, you're likely to encounter traffic between the freeway and the Kaohsiung Port.
2. Admission is free. I was there recently and they've improved it quite a bit.
3. As far as I know there's only one stop now, the pier in front of the old Ambassador Hotel. The boat does a loop from this pier to the Pier 2 Art Center, with a guide explaining local history in Mandarin along the way. This short tour is much better at night.
4. It can seem lame if you're judging by pictures or someone's half-assed YouTube assessment, but it's a hugely popular area in Kaohsiung. It's best visited during the winter months or at night. It gets hot as blazes in the summer. The musical performances there are less "irregular" since the completion of the Kaohsiung Music Center, which frequently hosts major acts, and there are also several music festivals held in or near the Art Center. If you're out on the town there are many bars and restaurants in this area.
5. Does the ferry still leave from here? I don't think so. Last time I walked through all I saw were people on paddleboards.
6. Just be aware that this place has monkeys -- a lot of monkeys. Some of these monkeys are also very aggressive.
7. "Takow" or "Dagou" are old names for Kaohsiung.
8. I highly recommend against taking the tunnel to Qijin. It may be that there's a convenient time to do this, but I've never had that kind of luck. Taking the ferry is much more convenient.
9. The name of this place has been changed to the Kaohsiung Lighthouse. Just take a right once you get off the ferry and follow the signs up the hill. There's also a coffee shop outside the lighthouse, and on a clear day the views are awesome. Be prepared, however. This place gets mobbed on holiday weekends.
10. Last time I was there this viewpoint was closed to the public and it looked like it had been so for a long time. Don't get your hopes up about the beach, by the way. It's a far cry from Nanwan.
11. Not sure if this section is referring to a specific shop/restaurant or an area within the fish market where sashimi is sold. I couldn't find any business by this name on Google Maps, so either this section is referring to a defunct business or an area within the fish market. At any rate it's not worth visiting the Qianzhen Fishing Port for sashimi alone.
