The Chinese below was taken from "A New Appreciation of Fishing"
漁樂新視界. This book was published by 財團法人台灣養殖魚業發展基金會 in 2012 and the English parts were written/translated by me. There will be five (more) of these entries, covering the ports in Kaohsiung, south Tainan, Taitung and Hualien that I didn't get to during the years I lived in Pingtung.
台東漁樂線
Portside Fun in Taitung
台東位於台灣東南部 , 東臨太平洋 , 西接中央山脈 , 因地處太平洋黑潮暖流經之海域 , 漁業資源豐富 , 加上擁有兩個台灣美如仙境的離島 ; 蘭嶼與綠島 , 是一處您值得一訪再訪的好去處喔 ! Taitung is located in southeast Taiwan. To the east of it is the Pacific Ocean, to the west is the Central Mountain Range. It has abundant fisheries due to its proximity to the "black current" which passes down the Pacific coast. In addition, Taitung claims two outlying islands, each fantastically beautiful: Green and Orchid islands. It's a place worth revisiting again and again!
由高山 , 縱谷 , 平原 , 海岸勾勒的山海風情 , 以及錯綜復雜的地理景觀交織出台東的獨特性 , 來到台東 , 你可以感受到人的純真與可愛之處 , 更能呼吸到一種特有的原始自然 , 是首屈一指值得觀光遊憩的好地方 . From high mountains, to the rift valley, to the plateau, to the scenic stretch of coastline where the mountains meet the sea, Taitung offers a variety of geographical wonders. You can come here and enjoy the innocence and charm of its people, while at the same time reveling in the majesty of its natural setting. It's one of the best places [in Taiwan] for sightseeing and recreation.
How to go?
北部出發的可由國道5號或台9線公路從新店經宜蘭 , 花蓮 , 至台東 . 縱谷線部分仍沿台9線進入台東境內 , 海線部分 , 由花蓮轉台11線進入台東 . 南部出發可由高雄經屏鵝公路在楓港左轉南迴公路進入台東 , 約需3.5小時 . From north Taiwan you take the #5 Freeway or Highway 9 from Xindian through Yilan and Hualien until you arrive in Taitung. The East Rift Valley route follows Highway 9 into the county, while in Hualien [City] you can switch onto Highway 11 for the ocean route. From Kaohsiung in south Taiwan you can take Highway 1, which leads to Highway 26 in Fenggang. In Fenggang you take a left onto the Southern Cross-Island Highway which leads into Taitung. This trip takes about 3.5 hours. (1)
精彩樂活
A Beautiful Life
台東賞鯨 Taitung Whale Watching
花東地區因為有黑潮的經過 , 因此漁獲眾多 , 也吸引了許多前來覓食的鯨豚們 , 造就了這裡的賞鯨文化 . 在台東 , 如果你要賞鯨 , 可以到成功漁港搭賞鯨船喔 ! Due to the presence of the "black current" which passes by Hualien and Taitung there is an abundance of fish in the area. These fish in turn attract whales and dolphins which come here to feed on them. [From the presence of these whales] a whale watching culture has come into being. If you're in Taitung and you'd like to see whales, you should board a whale watching boat at Chenggong Fishing Port. (2)
旗魚文化 Marlin Culture (7)
台東地區的海域擁有豐富的旗魚資源 , 高聳的背鰭是旗魚最主要的特徵 , 體長可達3-4公尺 . 在台東沿海地區較常出現的旗魚種類主要有黑皮旗魚 , 紅肉旗魚 , 立翅旗魚 , 雨傘旗魚等 , 而台東每年的旗魚季也吸引了許多民眾前往 , 更可以一窺漁民捕旗魚的厲害喔 ! The waters off the coast of Taitung are rich in marlin. Their long dorsal fin is their main characteristic, and they grow to lengths of 3-4 meters. The main types of marlin seen off the coast of Taitung are the Indo-pacific blue marlin, the striped marlin, the black marlin and the Indo-pacific sailfish. Every year the marlin season attracts many people to Taitung, and during this time you can catch a glimpse of local fishermen's skill [with regard to catching this type of fish!]
石雨傘 The Stone Umbrella
這裡的景觀獨特壯麗 , 由於上下岩石質地不同上方較堅硬為珊瑚礁岩 , 下方為較弱的礫岩 , 經過長時間的侵蝕 , 形成下面較細 , 上面較粗的模樣 , 因而產生狀似雨傘外形 , 又稱為 "石雨傘" . The impressive landscape [on display] here comes from the differing consistency of the upper and lower rock layers. The upper layer is harder coral reef stone, while the lower layer is a softer sedimentary layer. The erosion that has taken place over a long period of time has worn away more of the lower rock layer, resulting in an umbrella shape known as "the stone umbrella." (8)
八仙洞 Eight Fairies Cave
位於長濱鄉北段海灣 , 在民國77年被列為國家一級古蹟 . 本來是在海底的 , 擁有十多個海蝕洞 , 因為地殼隆起 , 八仙洞也跟著隆起 , 每一個洞高度都在10公尺以上 , 八仙洞現在有完整的步道通往各個洞穴 , 值得前往參訪 . [This place] is located on a bay in the northern part of Changbin Township. In 1988 it was declared a level one historic site. It was previously below the water line, and the uplift of the earth's crust brought it to the surface. There are ten caves in all, and each cave is over 10 meters high. There is a trail leading to all of the caves and it's well worth visiting. (3)
烏石鼻 Wu Shr Bi
烏石鼻是一塊突出於海面上的黑色岩石岬角 , 因為岩石像人的鼻子一樣向外延伸 , 而得 "烏石鼻" 的名稱 . 烏石鼻為桂狀節裡的黑色安山岩 , 向海中延伸約兩公里 , 周圍有著多處潮池及海蝕溝 , 相當適合觀察潮間帶生態 . Wu Shr Bi is a black rock sticking up from the ocean. Because this rock sticks up like a person's nose, it earned the name "Wu Shr Bi." Wu Shr Bi is a laurel leaf-shaped rock [formation] composed of black andesite, and it extends into the ocean for about two meters. There are many tide pools and rivulets within it. It's a good place to observe the ecology of an intertidal zone. (9)
成功漁港 Chenggong Fishing Port
成功漁港附近海域因黑潮經過 , 因此漁業蓬勃發展 , 每年三月底至六月是漁產最豐盛的季節 , 而每年十月東北季風吹起 , 更是旗魚的盛產季節 , 遊客可飽啖經濟實惠的海鮮料理 . 除此之外 , 近年來亦配合海洋休閒觀光的發展 , 開啟了賞鯨的海洋知性之旅 . The abundant fisheries found around Chenggong Fishing Port are due to the black current which passes through the area. These fisheries and the current [which replenishes them] are the reason that the fishing industry [in this area] is booming. The most abundant time is between the end of March and June. [Around] October every year, the arrival of the monsoon [current] ushers in marlin season, and during this time tourists can enjoy seafood dishes at reasonable prices. In addition, recent years have seen a local whale watching industry develop alongside an enhanced awareness of marine tourism.
鯊魚博物館 The Shark Museum
館藏四 , 五十種鯊魚標本的鯊魚博物館 , 是台東成功的新興景點 , 難得一見的大魚翅 , 大牙齒 , 骨骼 , 鯨鬚等 , 都讓人大開眼界 . 鯊魚博物館努力蒐集各種鯊魚並好好保存 , 希望讓更多人能認識鯊魚之美 , 也更愛護海洋 . The Shark Museum houses 50 specimens of shark. It is a newer tourist attraction in Chenggong. [In this museum] you can see rare shark fins, big teeth, bones and baleen [from whales]. All of these things are very eye opening. This museum tries to collect various shark [specimens] and preserve them well, hoping to make more people aware of the beauty of sharks and the need to protect the ocean. (4)
金樽陸連島海灘 Jindzun Head Beach
其區域範圍包含金樽漁港 , 白沙灣海灘及金樽周圍的峽谷 , 有小海灣 , 沿岸礁 , 岩壁 , 沙灘及漁港等景緻 , 而 "金樽" 則是因為海灣形狀似酒杯而得此名 , 另外還有 , "貓島" 或 "貓狀礁" 的別稱 . 這裡擁有秀麗的原始景色 , 細長的金樽陸連島更是絕佳的美景之一 . This area includes Jindzun Fishing Port, White Sands Beach and the canyon nearby. There's a small bay, a coastal reef, rock cliffs, a beach, a fishing port and other related scenery. "Jindzun" is so named because the bay is shaped like a wine cup. It also has two nicknames: "cat island" and "cat-shaped reef." It's a beautiful spot, and the coral peninsula (island) extending into the sea is one of its most beautiful features. (10)
杉原海洋生態公園 Shanyuan Ecological Ocean Park
位於都蘭灣的 "杉原海洋生態公園" , 是因為台東縣政府在94年將這個地區劃設了 "富山禁漁區" , 禁止這裡從事任何捕魚 , 抓魚的行為 , 保護海洋資源而形成的 . 這裡屬於熱帶珊瑚礁地區 , 擁有令人驚嘆的海底景觀 , 加上實施了禁漁與護漁政策 , 目前已成功復育了不少的海洋生物 . The Shanyuan Bay Ecological Ocean Park is located in Dulan Bay. Its origin can be traced back to 2005, when the Taitung County Government designated this area "the Fushan No Fishing Zone," intending to protect the marine resources found here. This is a tropical reef area with stunning underwater landscapes. Since the implementation of fishing bans and protective measures a lot of marine life has been restored in this area. (5)
水往上流 Water Running Up
在東河鄉都蘭村看見 "奇觀" 兩字的石牌 , 就知道來到了這個神奇的地方囉 ! 有沒有發現 ? 明明是上坡 , 怎麼一旁農用溝渠裡的水會往上流呢 ? 其實這是視覺假像啦 ! 由於溝渠旁邊的景物傾斜度大於路面 , 造成視覺看流水彷彿由低處往高處流 , 也成為台東另類的景點之一 . Once you see the stone inscribed with the word(s) "wonder" in Dulan Village, Donghe Township, you'll know that you've arrived at this special place. Did you notice? The land is clearly rising upward -- how is it that the water in the agricultural ditch is flowing upward? In truth it's an optical illusion! Because the slope of the ground is steeper than the slope of the road, it looks like the water is flowing upward. [For this reason] it has become one of Taitung's secondary tourist attractions. (6)
富岡漁港 Fugang Fishing Port
又稱 "伽籃漁港" , 是前往綠島 , 蘭嶼的主要交通港 , 也是當地漁船主要的集散地 , 沿近海捕撈到漁獲 , 在碼頭上就地拍賣 , 呈現熱鬧的漁業風光 . 另外 , 來到漁港可千萬別錯過在漁港街品嘗新鮮又便宜的海產喔 ! [This place] is also known as "Jialan Fishing Port." It's a transit point for those traveling onward to Green and Orchid islands, and also an important harbor for fishing boats in the area. The catch brought in from the surrounding coastline is sold on the pier, and the auctioning off of [bigger] fish creates a lively scene. In addition, don't miss sampling the cheap and fresh seafood available [at restaurants] along the road leading to the port! (11)
小野柳 Xiao Ye Liou
小野柳位於富岡漁港北方 , 因造型多變的海蝕景觀 , 足以媲美在北海岸的野柳 , 而得此名 . 仔細觀察海邊岩石 , 會發現豆腐岩 , 蜂窩岩 , 蕈狀岩等各種奇形怪狀的岩石 , 盡在眼前 , 天氣晴朗時 , 從小野柳向東望去 , 可以清楚的看見32公里外的綠島喔 ! Xiao Ye Liou is north of Fugang Fishing Port. It gets its name from the eroded rock formations along the coast, which resemble Yeliou on the north coast [of Taiwan]. If you carefully inspect the rock formations along the seaside, you'll find many oddly shaped rocks including tofu rocks, honeycomb rocks and mushroom rocks. When the weather's clear look east! You'll have a clear view of Green Island, 32 kilometers off the coast!
太麻里 Taimali
太麻里因盛產金針得名 , 在金針山的稜線上 , 鋪設一條長3673公尺的景觀步道 , 遊客可循著步道 , 在花叢林木中夾道中漫步 , 享受大自然的洗禮 . 山與海在遍野的金針花下 , 更顯的高雅動人 , 每處都有不同的景觀與生態可欣賞 , 是一個強力推薦的景點喔 ! Taimali got its name from the daylily flowers grown there. A 3673 meter long trail has been built along the ridgeline [of Taimali's] Jinzhen Mountain. Tourists can stroll along this trail through the trees and flowers, refreshing themselves through exposure to nature. The mountain and ocean [scenery] below is even more charming from the midst of the daylily flowers. Each part of this area has a different ecology to appreciate, and it's a highly recommended tourist spot! (12)
旗魚創意料理 Creative Marline Cuisine
旗魚肉質柔軟 , 油脂豐富 , 具有高蛋白 , 低脂肪 , 低熱量的特色 , 新鮮上岸的旗魚味道更是鮮美 . 由旗魚做成的各式創意料理 , 是民眾來到台東成功絕對不能錯過的美味 . Marlin meat is soft, has rich oil, is high in protein, is low in fat and also low in calories. The freshly caught marlin is even more delicious. The variety of creative marlin dishes is not something that visitors to Taitung [County], Chenggong [Municipality] should miss.
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1. I'm assuming this "Ping-e Highway" 屏鵝公路 is Highway 1 and Highway 26. The "Ping" would refer to Pingtung City, and the "e" would refer to Eluanbi Lighthouse, which lies at the southern end of Highway 26. Highway 1 meets Highway 26 in Fenggang.
This section leaves out the 88 Expressway, which you'd take into Chaozhou, switching onto Highway 1 there. Nowadays we'd take the Formosa Freeway all the way down to Nanzhou southwest of Chaozhou, exiting onto Highway 1, but this book was written before the Formosa Freeway was completed.
2. The Chenggong Municipality Office is attempting to revive this aspect of the local tourism industry. It wasn't a popular pastime during COVID. Those interested should definitely check locally before going.
3. If you're interested in local archaeology this place is definitely worth going to. The Changbin Culture discovered at the site remains the oldest culture discovered in Taiwan. I believe that since the publication of this book (which somehow fails to mention it anyway) the site has been closed to the public, but it's still worth visiting. There's signage explaining some features of the site.
仙, by the way, could just as easily be translated as "immortals."
4. I call B.S. on some of this section. It was never more than an excuse for a restaurant. Eating the protected species of shark is illegal now anyway.
5. If you're asking me, this section is complete nonsense. What really happened was that the County Government turned the management of this "protected" area over to the local fishing association, and they regard it as a source of income. They charge an entrance fee which goes into their own pockets, and they even encourage people to feed the fish, an activity which is having an enormously damaging effect on the local ecosystem. Oh, and what are people usually feeding the fish? Steamed buns!
6. This place sucks. Don't go here. I could attempt to be "diplomatic" about it, but really, it's a complete waste of time. Water Running Up and Chulu Ranch are, in my opinion, the two worst tourist sites in Taitung County.
7. Google Translate is giving me "swordfish," though I had always thought of them as sailfish, and Wikipedia is giving me "marlin." Since the results for Wikipedia and Google Images match, I'm going with "marlin." Marlins are closely related to swordfish, and the sailfish is a type of marlin.
8. "Sedimentary" isn't quite correct, but I felt that the meaning is clearer in this context. The lower layer of rocks are more specifically "conglomerates," which are a type of sedimentary rock.
9. The 鼻 or "Bi" in "Wu Shr Bi" could be translated as "nose." There are many ocean "heads" or promontories which are labeled "bi" in Chinese.
10. 樽 or "dzun" means "cup."
11. Visiting Fugang Fishing Port for any of these things would be a waste of time. Just go up to Chenggong an hour north.
12. It's... OK. To be honest, neither the local government or the people living and/or running businesses there have taken the best care of it. I'd recommend Chr Ke or Sixty Stone mountains in Hualien instead.
