2025年3月13日 星期四

Yuli Municipality, Hualien County 花蓮縣玉里鎮


Yuli is north of Fuli and east of Zhuoxi.  Its train station is one of the East Rift Valley's major transit points, and its population is much larger than that of surrounding townships. 玉里位於富里的北部 、 卓溪的東部 。  玉里車站花東縱谷重要的車站的其中一個 , 玉里的人口也比鄰近的鄉鎮多。

Yuli has a lively and interesting history.  Several aboriginal groups have migrated through and at times settled in the area.  These groups didn't only include members of the Bunun and Amis tribe(s), but also members of the Makadao, Taivoan and Siraya tribes who originally lived on the other side of the Central Mountain Range in what is now Tainan, Kaohsiung and Pingtung.  The various tribal groups who came to settle in what is now Yuli had rather contentious relationships with later Japanese and Chinese settlers who arrived later. 玉里的歷史很有趣 ,不同的時期有不同的原住民族群陸續來到玉里 。  不只有布農阿美族 , 還有從今日的臺南高雄屏東越過中央山脈來的馬卡道 、 大武壠西拉雅。  這些原住民族群間的關係不一定是良好的,  他們和之後來的日本人和人之間的關係也充滿爭議性。

According to the last census, 20,137 people live in Yuli. 上次的人口統計記載玉里的人口是20137人 。


For me the highlight of any trip to Yuli is the drive along the Yuchang Highway from Changbin Township in Taitung to the Antong Hot Spring Area.  This is one of the most scenic areas on the east coast, and the Yuchang Highway is always in better condition than other cross-mountain "highways" between Taitung and Hualien. 從臺東長濱鄉安通溫泉區的這段玉長公路是我認為去玉里的最好風景。  這條公路是東部風景最美的 , 而且它的路況也比其他往返臺東花蓮的山路好很多 。




The patch of grey in the distance is the East Rift Valley, which lies between the Central and Coastal mountain ranges. 遠處灰灰的地是中央山脈海岸山脈間的花東縱谷




This is further down the mountain, closer to the Antong Hot Spring Area.  This stream (a branch of the Antong River) is also close to the entrance to the Antong Cross-Mountain Trail, which I'm guessing is out of commission after recent earthquakes and typhoons. 往山下靠近安通溫泉區 。  這條溪 (安通溪的支流) 也在安通越嶺道口附近 。  我猜步道可能因為最近的地震和颱風封閉了 。


Another branch of the Antong River, not far away. 這條也是安通溪的部分 。



Still further down the highway is the hot spring area.  That's Yu Hot Spring in the background. 繼續往下走 , 在溫泉區裡面 。  後面的建築是玉溫泉


After the Antong Hot Spring Area our next destination was Chrke Mountain and its famous daylily fields BUT, as we soon discovered, the road up there is closed until April.  There's an alternate route up to that area, but it looked scary so we decided to abort mission. 安通溫泉以後我們往赤科山的金針花田前進 , 卻發現上山的道路四月才通車 。  雖然有其他的路可以上去 , 但我們擔心危險,所以決定改天再上山 。

The closest we got to Chrke Mountain was Puding Village, where this photo was taken.  That's the Central Mountain Range in the distance. 我在最靠近赤柯山埔頂部落拍的照片 。 背景是中央山脈


North of Chrke Mountain, along Highway 193, is the Chunrh Green Tunnel.  There are a lot of charming villages on this highway, and I'd love to explore it in greater detail during future trips. 順著193公路 赤科山北部有春日綠色隧道 。  路上有許多可愛的農村和部落, 改天再來探索吧 !


Southwest of the Green Tunnel, in Central Yuli, is the Formosan Black Bear Education Center.  It's a tiny place, and probably not worth visiting in its own right.  If, however, you're already in the area, it's worth a look.  台灣黑熊教育館玉里市區(綠色隧道的西南部) 。  你可以順路來這棟博物館參觀,聽聽導覽人員為你介紹臺灣黑熊的習性與目前正在進行的保育工作。

The Yuli version of stinky tofu is within walking distance of this facility. 玉里的臭豆腐在教育館附近 。


There are a lot of interesting churches and temples in the East Rift Valley.  Pictured above is the Yuli Presbyterian Church, not far from the Yuli Train Station. 花東縱谷有許多有特色教堂和廟宇 。  上面照片中的玉里長老教會玉里車站附近 。

And while we're discussing Central Yuli, I'd like to say that it doesn't really matter where you buy Yuli noodles, this area's most famous local food.  I've had Yuli noodles at several different places over the years, and I never noticed much difference. 對 ! 以我的觀點,在哪一家餐廳吃玉里麵不重要 , 因為我吃過幾家餐廳的玉里麵 ,我覺得沒什麼差別!


This is the center of town.  As much as I like Yuli Municipality, I've never found Central Yuli that interesting.  I've stopped here to eat more times than I can remember, but I never stay that long. 玉里市區的中心。 雖然我很喜歡玉里鎮 , 但是我覺得玉里市區沒有特色 。  我在附近的時候都會來玉里市區吃飯 ,只是都不會停留很久。

After eating lunch in Yuli we tried to go to the Yuli Wetlands, but the road to it was closed as well. 我們在玉里吃完午餐後開車往玉里濕地 , 可惜那條路也封了 。


Lastly, on our way north to Ruisui, we stopped at the "Sanxuan Betel Nut Grove," which turned out to not be a thing anymore.  Yet another casualty of nature's wrath? 最後,開往北邊的瑞穗的路上,我們來到三軒檳榔園 。  可是這個景點好像不見了 ,我們沒看到任何顯眼的標示, 可能是最近的颱風和地震的關係。

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