排灣族婚禮 Paiwan Tribal Wedding Ceremonies (2 of 3)

The Chinese below was written by 劉思源 and the illustrations were done by 彭大維.  The English was written/translated by me.  The text comes from the book 排灣族婚禮, which was part of the "Boar Forest" 野豬林 series published way back in 1989.

My school was going to throw these books away!  I thought they could use a little love...

新娘別害羞 , 快快來跳舞

New Bride Don't Be Shy, Come and Dance!

在婚禮前 , 排灣人會舉行好幾天的大舞會 , 因為他們相信跳舞能夠帶來幸福 , 如果跳的天數越多 , 夫婦就越恩愛 .  趁這個難得的機會 , 少女們都換上最美麗的衣服 , 一邊唱歌 , 一邊跳舞 . Before the wedding the Paiwan people hold a big dance that takes place over several days.  They believe that dancing brings good fortune, and that the more days you dance the more loving the couple will be.  Seizing the opportunity, the girls all put on their prettiest clothes [before they] sing and dance. 

小伙子們鼓起勇氣 , 跑到心愛的女孩旁邊 , 要求加入舞蹈 .  如果女孩也喜歡男孩 , 便鬆開手 , 讓男孩加入自己的身邊一起跳舞 .  不過 , 男孩們請注意 , 戴著耳環的女生可不能追 , 因為戴耳環表示她已經結婚了 . The young men build up their courage, running to the girls they like and asking them to dance.  If the girls like the boys in return they join hands and dance together.  Boys, however, must take note and not pursue a girl who is wearing earrings.  Earrings signify that a girl is already married.

結婚的日子到囉 !

The Wedding Day is Here!

一大清早 , 巴清就帶著迎親的隊伍向親娘家出發 .  小狗在隊伍裡跑來跑去 , 據說狗能驅邪 , 可以避免精靈鬼怪來搗亂 .  巫婆則高高舉著喜帳在前面開路 . Early in the morning Ba-qing leads a wedding procession to his bride's home.  Dogs run around this procession.  It is said that dogs drive away evil spirits and guard against ghosts and monsters.  A sorceress, leading the procession, holds a wedding banner high overhead.

迎親的禮物 , 都有特別的意義 , 樣樣要仔細檢查 , 像香蕉代表新娘的純潔 , 所以香蕉皮不能有一點點的斑點 .  檳榔代表子孫旺盛 , 所以一定要用完整的整顆檳榔才行 .  All of the wedding gifts have special meanings, and all of these gifts have to be inspected carefully beforehand.  Bananas, for example, represent the bride's purity, and the peels must be without bruises.  Betel nut represents fertility, so only whole betel nuts can be used.

[神啊 !  請您祝福他們倆 . ]

"Spirits!  Please bless these two!"

新郎到達新娘家就鳴炮慶祝 , 女方的親友聽到炮聲 , 紛紛趕來祝賀 , 大家一起唱歌 , 跳舞 , 喝酒 , 等著舉行 " 結婚祭 " . Once the groom arrives at the bride's home firecrackers are set off in celebration.  Once the bride's family hears the firecrackers they rush to her, offering their congratulations.  Everyone sings songs, dances and drinks wine as they await the wedding ceremony.

結婚祭是婚禮中最隆重的典禮 . The wedding ceremony is the most serious part of any wedding.

婚祭由祭司主持 , 他慢慢唱出祖先的事蹟 , 新娘新郎的家世 , 新娘的美貌 , 並高舉著琉璃珠 , 祈求天神保佑新婚夫婦恩恩愛愛 , 早生貴子 . The wedding ceremony is presided over by a priest [or, in older times, a shaman] who tells tales of the [bride and groom's] ancestors, their family histories and the bride's beauty.  As he holds aloft glass beads he asks the spirits [or, in modern times, God] to watch over the couple's loving relationship and quickly grant them a child.

典禮中 , 新娘拿著手巾 , 摀著臉 , 不斷的哭泣 , 因為她捨不得離開爸爸 , 媽媽 . During the ceremony the bride holds a handkerchief and dabs at her face, weeping continuously for the mother and father she will leave behind.(1)

[加油 !  加油 !  看誰先爬到鞦韆上 ? ]

"Go for it!  Let's see who can climb up the swing first?"

婚祭完畢 , 就輪到婚禮的最高潮 -- 盪鞦韆 . After the wedding ceremony concludes the highlight of the wedding arrives - the swing.

盪鞦韆是貴族結婚特有的慶祝節目 , 平民是沒有這種權力的 . The swing is a privilege unique to noble families, commoners have no right to engage in it [at their weddings]. (2)

鞦韆的材料是四根帶葉的樹幹 , 由新郎負責砍樹 , 送到新娘家前的廣場 , 由新娘家負責搭建 . The swing is made from four trunks of living trees.  The groom is responsible for cutting these trunks down and placing them in the open space fronting the bride's home.  The bride's family is responsible for making the swing [from these trunks].

鞦韆要搭得又高又監牢 , 琳娜的家人 , 先將四根樹幹埋入土中 , 然後兩根 , 兩根交叉成三角形 , 並用藤條捆紮固定 .  這時 , 雙方要派出選手比賽 , 看誰先爬到鞦韆頂上 , 架上橫樑 .  輸的那一方不僅沒有面子 , 還要賠酒呢 . The swing must be tall and strong.  Lina's family first sticks the four trunks in the ground, joining pairs to make triangles and tying them together with vines.  Afterwards both the groom's and bride's families pick members that compete to climb to the top of the swing and place a crossbeam there first.  The losing side not only loses face but also has to pay for the other side's drinks! (3)

[ 琳娜用力盪 , 盪高一點 . ]

[Lina swings harder and higher.]

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排灣族婚禮 Paiwan Tribal Wedding Ceremonies (1 of 3)

台灣民宅 Taiwan Homes (1 of 3)

綠島漁樂線 Portside Fun on Green Island

1. There's a lot of crossover here between indigenous and non-indigenous wedding ceremonies.  Han Chinese communities have been known to embrace the same or similar customs, and firecrackers would have certainly been unknown to indigenous communities prior to the presence of Han Chinese in Taiwan.

2. Distinctions are sometimes made between "nobles" and "commoners" in Paiwan communities, though this is of course less of a thing now.  These communities, like communities everywhere, undergo change, and they tend to be less rigid/stratified than they once were.

3. Not an easy thing to see.  I've only been to one Paiwan wedding, but even so I've never heard of anyone actually doing this swing activity at an actual wedding.  You'll see the swing set up outside villages or local restaurants, but seeing it used ceremonially is quite unusual.

Taitung in the News 台東的新聞 (South 南) 5

An Open Letter to Local Investigative Journalists: please, please, PLEASE continue to investigate the financial dealings of those running for (or presently occupying) public offices in Taitung County.  There's a lot of tourism and investment money flowing into this county, and many are using public offices for personal gain.

1. Beinan Township 卑南鄉

1a. No recent news out of Beinan, but I can tell you that the Zhiben Hot Spring Marathon will take place on November 1st.  I only know about this event because teachers and students in my school can join the 6K run for free. 跑吧 !  孩子  知本溫泉公益馬拉松

2. Taitung City 台東市

2a. A candidate for "village chief" (里長) was accused of bribing voters with rice and noodles.  The candidate in question was later arrested and released without bail.  The incident is still under investigation. 台東1里長參選人涉送白米賄選遭聲押  法院裁定無保請回

2b. There will be a large fireworks display in Taitung City during Double Ten Day.  Be prepared for traffic. 2026國慶煙火在台東 !  火煙施放時間 , 9大最大觀賞點 , 交通管制 , 市區景點順遊一次看

2c. The KMT candidate for Taitung County Magistrate Wu Xiou-hua recently inaugurated her campaign headquarters on Ssewei Road.  Ke Wen-je attended the event.  During hir speech Wu Xiou-hua complained of "judicial persecution" and "smear campaigns." 台東縣長參選人吳秀華成立競選總部  柯文哲朱立倫站台力挺 (1)

3. Taimali Township 太麻里鄉

3a. A 58 year old man was run over by a cement mixer.  He was lying on a temporary road when the driver of the cement mixer, unaware of his presence, drove straight over him.  Both the deceased and the driver of the cement mixer were working on a river restoration project.  台東太麻里工地驚傳死亡事故  58歲板模工遭預拌車輾斃

3b. During the 4-day Moon Festival holiday the driver of another cement mixer lost control of his vehicle and plunged off the cliff next to Highway 9.  He was pronounced dead at the scene. 中秋連假又傳車禍死亡悲劇 !  台東太麻里鄉砂石車翻落邊坡70歲翁當場喪命

3c. The Shrfang ("10 Directions") Charity Association held an event in Taimali.  The article says they distributed "supplies" to local residents, but does not state what these supplies were. 十方慈善會偏鄉送暖 !  第四度深入太麻里  270戶家庭受惠

4. Jinfeng Township 金峰鄉

4a. No recent news out of Jinfeng.

5. Dawu Township 大武鄉

5a. Someone in Dawu won $253 million in the lottery.  The owner of the winning ticket has not revealed his/her identity as yet, and I think that's the right thing to do. 全村尋找幸運兒 !  台東大武開出2.53頭獎  得主領獎了

6. Daren Township 達仁鄉

6a. No recent news out of Daren.

7. Green Island Township 綠島鄉

7a. No recent news out of Green Island.

8. Orchid Island Township 蘭嶼鄉

8a. No recent news out of Orchid Island.

This Entry's Words of Wisdom: A lot of people will be driving drunk this weekend.  Be careful on the roads.  Maybe YOU are OK to drive, but that doesn't mean other drivers are!

Related Entries 相關的文章:

Kaohsiung in the News 高雄的新聞 (West 西) 10

Kaohsiung in the News 高雄的新聞 (East 東) 10

Tainan in the News 台南的新聞 (North 北) 10

Taitung in the News 台東的新聞 (South 南) 4

1. There's a lot of money behind this candidate, and Ke Wen-je's presence at her event is telling.

Other Stuff to Do in South Tainan

So you've been to Fort Zeelandia (Anping Fort), and you've been to the Chikan Tower, and you've been to the more famous night markets and old streets; what else is there to do in south Tainan?

1. Museums

There are several great museums in south Tainan.  There might even be more good museums in south Tainan than in any other part of Taiwan.  Both the city and national governments have spent a lot of money on the museums of Tainan, and some of these museums are still quite new.

The most accessible of the museums discussed here is definitely the Chimei Museum, in Rende District, which can be reached on foot from the Bao'an Train Station.  The other museums will require a scooter or a car.

Some people hate the Chimei Museum.  In a way I get it.  It's housed in an extremely pretentious building, it's in a less convenient part of Tainan and the entrance fee is pricey.  Just the same I think it's worth visiting.  Kids (especially boys) love the weapons exhibit, and if the items on display reflect the founder's eclectic tastes that's all part of the fun.

The Zuozhen (Zuojhen) Fossil Park is much further outside the downtown area, in a rather scenic district close to the mountains.  It showcases a lot of that area's natural history while at the same time spotlighting the Siraya Tribe's presence in east Tainan.

The Museum of Archaeology, slightly closer to downtown, is probably one of the most overlooked museums in Taiwan.  It's not far from the TSMC facility in the Southern Taiwan Science Park, and it's one of the most impressive buildings you're likely to see in Tainan.  The same organization also runs the Prehistory Museum in Taitung, and there's a lot of overlap between the two museums.

Lastly there's the Garden and Old Waterworks Museum in Shanshang, a tiny district that doesn't have much else to offer tourists.  You can take a shuttle bus from the entrance and learn how the old water utility operated, and there's also a nice park surrounding the old waterworks.  It won't blow your mind or anything, but it's a nice place to spend an afternoon.

2. Nature / Local Geography

"Jaw-droppingly scenic?"  Most of the places below won't fit that description, though there are areas east of the Nanhua Reservoir that are very beautiful.

The most accessible of the places below is definitely Yuguang Island in Anping, which many tourists have visit without knowing its name beforehand.  It's the coastal part of Anping, and it's only a bike ride away from Fort Zeelandia.

For most of the other places here you'd need a scooter or (even better) a car.  Some of these places, like Tsaoshan (Caoshan) Moon World, are at the end of very windy, one lane roads, so drivers should exercise caution.

The Huxing Mountain Park and Nioupu Mudstone Soil and Water Conservation Park are both in Longqi, an underrated district if there ever was one.  The trails through both areas are very scenic, offering excellent views of local plants, rivers and lakes.

The Xinhua Forest Area and the Siraya Green Valley are both in Xinhua.  Both are much easier to get to, being east of Central Xinhua and accessible from a well maintained road.  I highly recommend a hike around the Siraya Green Valley if you get the chance.  It's like stepping backward into a former time.

Tsaoshan Moon World, at the southern end of Zuozhen, is one of the most scenic places discussed here.  It might remind you of Kaohsiung's Moon World, which isn't far away.  Avoid this area on foggy days; if it's overcast you won't be able to see much.

As said above, the area around the Nanhua Reservoir is extremely picturesque.  This aside it's FAR and not easy to get to.  A lot of this area is ecologically protected, so don't expect to be able to drive down all of the roads.

If you're in Nanxi the Yongxing Suspension Bridge offers a great view of the Dzengwen (Zengwen) River as it passes from Jiayi (Chiayi) County into Tainan.  The Meiling Scenic Area, also in Nanxi, has views of the same terrain.  The Meiling Scenic Area isn't the most accessible scenic area I've ever been to, and a lot of the services/businesses present there didn't survive COVID, but the views from the higher points are worth seeking out.

Yuguang Island in Anping won't change your life, but hey, the shells along the beach are fun and it's a nice place to put a foot or two into the water.  Most of Tainan's coastline has seen better days, but Yuguang still offers some convenient beaches within reach of downtown.

The section of Taijiang National Park in Annan is more of a mixed bag.  The better parts of this scenic area are definitely to the north, in Qigu, but there are still some nice wetlands to be found in the Annan part.  If you want to avoid tourists the Annan wetlands are better.  They might not come equipped with boat rides and grilled oysters, but they are quiet.

3. Cultural Excursions / Local History

There are some cultural/historic spots that are overlooked.  If you dislike museums - and plenty of people do - these might be a better option.

The easiest two places to get to are the historic sites in Chenggong (Cheng Kung) University and the Magistrate Residence Living Center, both in East District.  They're both an easy walk from the Tainan Train Station.

Further afield there's Datanpi in Guanmiao, a rather historic lake located next to a monastery.  The Japanese authorities "disappeared" a fair number of people living in and around this area during the Japanese occupation, and there are relics of this time period in Datanpi.

Not far from Datanpi is the Xinhua Old Street, a surprisingly lively old street in a part of Tainan that many tourists overlook.  In times gone by Xinhua was a center of trade where farmers and tradespeople converged.  It isn't exactly thriving now, but it's still a charming little town where local history lives on.

Much further east is theYiguandao Temple in Nanhua.  It's an amazing building that's still under construction, and likely to be so for years to come.  The views from its upper floors are stunning.

I'd recommend Xuankong Temple in Nanxi for many of the same reasons, though Nanxi's more conservative/traditional take on religion lacks the views that make the Yiguandao temple so impressive.  This said, there are some cool statues in Xuankong Temple, and it's located near the Yongxing Suspension Bridge.

Firmly within the confines of downtown Tainan are the historic sites/ruins in the Chenggong University campus and the Magistrate Residence Living Center to the south.  The Chenggong University ruins, which include a city gate dating back to the Qing (Ching) Dynasty, are easy to get to, and the Magistrate Residence Living Center - its resemblance to a giant gift shop aside - offers another glimpse of life in Taiwan during the Japanese occupation.

4. Food?

I won't recommend any specific restaurants because I can't think of any beyond downtown Tainan that would justify a trip just to eat there.  Downtown Tainan is awash in good food, and most of the food outside of the downtown area is just an inferior version of what you'll find downtown.  There are a couple notable exceptions that I can think of, but I don't think they'd be worth fighting traffic over.

It's not a meal, but the "Gua Gua Garden" (Kua Kua Yuan) Sweet Potato Eco Museum in Xinhua is worth visiting.  Part of this place is also a museum discussing the history of sweet potato farming in the area, and many of the snacks on sale are pretty good.  DON'T buy the sweet potato tea, but anything else for sale there is probably good.

If you like the Sweet Potato Tourist Factory you might also enjoy the Taiwan Golden Buckwheat Exploration Hall in Yujing.  Yujing is better known for its mangoes, but the golden buckwheat hall has a restaurant offering good food and a gift shop selling everything from buckwheat noodles to buckwheat beer.

5. None of the Above?

The Hutoupi Reservoir in Xinhua doesn't have any good food that I know of, it doesn't have much cultural relevance, and a lot of the nature to be found within it isn't all that natural.  Even so this recreation area/campground can be fun during the cooler months.  It's also conveniently located for those set on exploring surrounding districts.

6. Conclusion

I hope this entry encourages others to look beyond downtown Tainan.  Sure, there's a lot of cool stuff to do downtown, but Anping and West Central District aren't the end of Tainan's story.  Trips further out can be rewarding, and any trip away from the freeway is likely to involve less traffic and smaller crowds.

Let me know if there are any places not discussed here that you think merit inclusion.  South Tainan definitely has a lot to offer, and I don't think this blog entry is the last word on that subject.

Related Entries:

North District, Tainan City 台南市北區

West Central District, Tainan City 台南市中西區

This Blog in 6 Maps

What You Can, Can't, Should, Shouldn't and Might Do in Kaohsiung

NOTE 1: "South Tainan" is here loosely defined as the districts south of the Dzengwen (Zengwen) River, and more specifically defined as Annan, West Central, Anping, South, North, Anding, East, Shanhua, Xinshr, Yongkang, Rende, Gueiren, Guanmiao, Xinhua, Loongqi, Zuozhen, Shanshang, Yujing, Nanxi and Nanhua districts.  Don't bother bringing up the salt thing in Qigu!  It's outside my jurisdiction!

NOTE 2: I've been to all of the places mentioned above in the last 4+ years.  Some of them I visited as recently as last weekend.

NOTE 3: What you'll find above is a far from exhaustive list.  There are places I left off because I think they're LAME, there are other places I left off because they aren't worth the effort, and there are still other places I left off because they seemed too weird for most people.