2026年5月16日 星期六

Central Dawu 大武鄉 (Taitung 台東)


Central Dawu (or the town of Dawu) is in Dawu Township, about an hour south of Taitung City.  It's on the Southern Cross-Island Highway, and is one of the last stops on the way to the tunnel which passes between Taitung and Pingtung counties. 大武鄉大武市區離台東市開車約一小時。  大武位在南迴公路上 , 靠近台東屏東中間的隧道 。

A lot of people drive through it, but few bother to stop.  It doesn't figure big in terms of Taitung's top tourist sites, though it does have some redeeming features. 很多人開車經過大武,卻不一定會在這裡停留。  這裡沒有台東最熱鬧的景點 , 但卻有著自己的特色 。


We parked in front of Dawu Junior High School, and walked from Highway 9 into town.  Across from Dawu Elementary there's a car graveyard where we found this jeep. 我們把車停在大武國中前, 從台9線走路進大武市區 。  這是大武國小對面的汽車墳場裡的吉普車 。


Further up the same road is a better view of the hills around town. 同一條路再進去一點的山景更好 。


There wasn't much going on at the Dawu Train Station.  I'm thinking most of the cars in the background were parked there by local people on their way to work.  There isn't much work in Dawu, but it's close enough to both the west coast and Taitung City for a commute like that to be feasible. 大武車站附近很安靜 ,  留在停車場的車應該是大武居民為了通勤停放在那裏的 。  大武的工作機會少 , 從這裡坐火車去台東市或西部上下班應該可以 。


This wood was probably washed onto local beaches by typhoons.  Dawu has been on the wrong end of many typhoons, and often sets records for high temperatures. 這堆木頭大概是被之前的颱風沖到附近沙灘的 ,  有時候颱風對大武造成很大的影響, 大武也常有創紀錄的高溫。


If it's not too hot a walk along the Dawu River is nice.  In July or August I'd probably avoid this place. 天氣比較涼快的時候在大武溪散步不錯 , 但是七、八月的時候我不會去 。


A look back at the north half of Dawu from the river trail.  Up in those hills/mountains is the village of Xinhua.  I highly recommend a visit to Xinhua if you're driving a reliable car or scooter. 從大武溪岸的河堤便道看北大武村 。  新化部落在山丘上 ,  新化部落很有趣 , 但是去之前一定要先確認機車或汽車的狀況良好才安全 。

The road to Xinhua, by the way, loops all the way back to Tuban and Daxi to the north.  It's a beautiful drive, but not for the faint of heart. 順帶一提, 往新化的路繞了一個大圈 , 途中會經過北邊的土坂大溪 ,  風景很美 , 可是路況不佳 。


This is the Dawu River.  Most of the year it's very calm, though I've seen it terrifyingly full after typhoons. 這是大武溪 ,大部分的時間它溪床上的水不高,  但颱風經過的時候,水位會高到嚇人 。

It's not easy to get to, but if you travel up this river valley you'll find the eastern end of the Jinshuiying Historic Trail, which stretches between Pingtung and Taitung.  I walked that trail with several elementary school students years ago, and the trip took around six hours.  Some of the scenery near the middle of the trail is stunning. 這裡不好找 , 如果你沿著這個溪谷往上,你會來到連接東和台東浸水營古道的東端 。  我幾年前跟一群國小生走過這個古道,我們走了六個小時 ,  古道上沿途看到的風景美不勝收。


Across the Dawu Bridge lies this coffee shop/restaurant.  It's new.  The latte I had here was very good, though I didn't try the food.  Be warned: it's not cheap. 大武橋上的這家咖啡館 ( 餐廳 )是新的 ,  他們的拿鐵好喝 , 但我沒吃過他們的料理 。  注意 : 這家不便宜 。


The southern half of Dawu, separated from the northern half by the Dawu River, is much quieter.  To the left is the Dawu Homestay, which I believe is also new. 大武溪大武市區隔成兩半 , 南邊的一半更是寧靜 。  左邊比較新的建築是大武民宿

Dawu has its own development association, and they're working hard to create more tourist spots in the area. 大武有自己的發展協會,他們很努力地推薦新的景點和發掘觀光亮點。


The temple to the left is in the center of town.  The buses into and out of Dawu make a surprising number of stops, visiting many of the mountain villages between Taitung City and Shangwu, further south. 左邊的廟宇在大武市區中心,  經過大武的公車會停靠很多地方, 這些停靠站是台東市尚武中間的村落。


This is just off Highway 9.  Much of the coastline around Dawu is undeveloped.  I hope it stays that way. 在台9線旁邊 。  大武的海岸大部分沒有當地人的商業行為 , 我希望它一直保持這個樣子就好 。


Tourists sometimes stop at the Dawu Seashore Park ("Dawu Coast Park"), north of the fire station.  It's oppressively hot here in the summer (zero shade), but in the fall and spring it's not bad. 遊客會停靠大武消防局北邊的海濱公園 ,  但是這裡夏天的時候超熱 , 春天和秋天的時候才比較涼一點。


This lego bridge in front of the Seashore Park.  It's the most recognizable thing in town.  There's a rainbow building across from it which predates the bridge's paint job. 樂高橋位於海濱公園前面 , 是容易被記住的景點 。  橋對面還有彩虹的建築 , 以前那座建築是大武最有名的景點 。

I should add that the Dawu Seaview Trail lies on the ridge in the background.  I skipped that trail this time, but there are pictures of it in The New Da Niao Bridge to "Downtown" Dawu 新大鳥橋到大武市區 entry.  The trail is a short and the scenery isn't particularly good. 補充一下, 大武觀海步道在背景的山嶺上 。  我這一次沒有走步道 , 可是新大鳥橋到大武市區的文章裡有照片 ,  步道很短 , 風景沒有特別好 。


The view south from the lego bridge.  To the right is the rainbow building mentioned above, and to the left, across the road, is the fire station. 在樂高橋上往南邊看的風景 , 前面是提到的彩虹建築 , 在左邊的是消防局 。


We had lunch at the Jiajiajiou Book House.  This place offers indigenous-Taiwanese fusion cuisine.  Their menu is as exotic as you're likely to find in Dawu.  The proprietors are very hospitable, and they do a lot for their local community. 我們在家家酒書房吃午餐 , 他們的料理是原住民 - 台式的 , 這應該是大武最特別的菜單。  老闆很親切 , 也努力的為社區做好的事。

This place doubles as an after school center for local students.  The first and second floors are full of books.  They also run a store on Dawu Street which sells locally made goods. 這個地方也是社區的課後學習中心 , 一 、 二樓都充滿書本 ,  他們在大武街上也開了一家地區特產店 。


Lastly there's this aborted attempt at a temple, which has looked like this for as long as I can remember.  Not sure why anyone thought this was a good spot for a temple, but at least it's weird? 最後有這間還沒完工的廟宇 , 它已經20多年來都沒變吧 !  在這場地蓋廟不是很奇怪嗎 ?

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2026年5月15日 星期五

Taitung in the News 台東的新聞 (South 南) 4



1. Beinan Township 卑南鄉

1a. A cement mixer famous (?) for flipping over did so again in Hualien.  A mechanical problem?  Or someone driving it too fast around corners?  Hopefully the incident is being investigated in depth before this cement mixer (or its driver(s)) actually kills someone. 10天內在台東連翻兩次 !  "最衰預拌車" 轉手花蓮半路又翻了

1b. A plan to improve public health was recently launched in Binlang Village by the local development association.  Representatives from the Taitung County Government were also on hand promoting their (annoying) apps. 數位科技與健康促進服務  台東縣卑南鄉檳榔社區發展協會推動 ...



2a. A man was stabbed five times after a drunken argument with four others.  He was rushed to the hospital and the suspects were apprehended soon after the incident. 嗆聲惹禍!台東男凌晨家門口慘遭4人狂砍 全身5處刀傷送醫搶救

2b. The Taitung County Government recently launched a program through which some travelers can be reimbursed for longer stays in the area.  Those requesting such subsidies must do so online. 2026最新旅遊補助快申請 !  1縣市發每人2500元

2c. The recent addition of pedestrian walkways in some parts of the city has resulted in still fewer parking spots available to local residents and tourists.  Many are blaming the local government for failing to consult residents on how and where the pedestrian walkways should be placed. 標線人行道壓縮停車空間  惹議



3a. High waters caused the Taimali River to overflow its banks after heavy rains triggered a flood near Jinlun.  No one was injured. 台東豪雨狂炸  太麻里金崙溪暴漲 "泥流沖入民宅"  幸無人受困 (3)



4a. The Jinfeng Township Department of Hygiene joined Binmao Elementary School's Mother's Day activity.  They gave a presentation on accident prevention. 台東縣金峰鄉衛生所結合賓茂國小母親節活動 ...

4b. Representatives from the County Government recently visited Jinfeng to discuss subsidies for eco-friendly farming in the area.  Soil erosion and flooding are serious problems in Jinfeng, and the government is pushing more sustainable farming practices such as soil conservation and the planting of tree breaks. 金峰推坡地水保設施補助  降低豪雨沖刷風險



5a. The Taitung County Department of Hygiene (Public Health) has plans to build a long-term health care facility in Dawu for the use of elderly residents there.  They recently convened a public meeting to explain the building's design and its intended uses. 大武鄉擬建住宿式長照  說明會聽取居民意見

5b. A wind power company wants to install 33 wind turbines along the coast in Daren, Dawu and Taimali.  Would this be a good thing or a bad thing for residents of these three townships?  Some in Dawu voice environmental concerns and worries about noise from wind turbines, while others want the subsidies that hosting wind turbines will bring.  Many of these same people also say that preserving Dawu's coastline is pointless given the fact that most tourists simply pass through the area without stopping. 風電為何抗爭多 ?  2大案例一次看

5c. Dawu kindergarten students visited a 7-11 recently.  During the excursion they learned how the store works and even got a chance to play cashier. 台東萌娃進駐超商當店員  南迴驛變身生活教室 (4)



6a. Not sure why this is newsworthy, but then again not much happens in Daren.  A blue magpie was spotted eating a big-eyed ratsnake in Anshuo Village. 蛇也難逃 !  台東目擊 "台灣藍鵲"  啄食過山刀  生態張力十足



7a. A Taitung County councilmember grilled members of the Council over Green Island's lack of a cultural and health center.  Green Island is the only township in Taitung County not to have one, and the councilmember considers them a valuable resource for aboriginal residents. 綠島成台東唯一 "零文建站" : 別讓離島原民被遺忘 (1)

7b. But wait!  This same County councilmember is being investigated on charges of corruption.  She is accused of misusing assistant's expenses, and was recently released on bail. 綠島鄉長選情震撼彈 !  縣議員王姷力遭約談  30萬交保

7c. Green Island inked a sister city agreement with a village in Okinawa, Japan. 台東縣綠島鄉與沖繩伊平屋村正式締結姐妹市 (2)



8a. Wang Chun-mei will run for the office of County Councilmember representing Lanyu. 花東特派員張柏東 / 台東縣報導

8b. The Taitung County Government increased the ferry subsidy for Lanyu residents from 450 NT to 600 NT.  There are presently two application systems in place for this subsidy, and some are complaining that the competing systems are a source of confusion. 蘭嶼船票補助  縣府調升至600元

8c. This article introduces some foods available on Lanyu.  There are many pictures. 蘭嶼特色料理 , 名產分享 , 吃飽喝足再把飛魚伴手禮帶回家 !

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1. Green Island has aboriginal residents!  I had no idea!

2. This is the kind of thing that makes China MAD!

3. I rode my bike home from Zhiben the same day.  The rain was impressive.

4. There are three 7-11s in Dawu.  These stores loom much larger in rural areas, where people don't have as many shopping options and tourists often choose the chain store over the local place.

2026年5月11日 星期一

排灣族婚禮 Paiwan Tribal Wedding Ceremonies (1 of 3)


The Chinese below was written by 劉思源 and the illustrations were done by 彭大維.  The English was written/translated by me.  The text comes from the book 排灣族婚禮, which was part of the "Boar Forest" 野豬林 series published way back in 1989.

My school was going to throw these books away!  I thought they could use a little love...


"叮叮咚咚" , 他們蓋房子做什麼 ? "Ding Ding Dong Dong," Why are They Building a House?

排灣族住在台灣南部的高山上 , 他們以打獵耕種為主 , 住在石板蓋的房屋 , 女孩擅長織繡 , 男孩擅長雕刻 , 過著平靜的部落生活 . The Paiwan Tribe lives in the high mountains of south Taiwan.  They primarily subsist on hunting and farming, and live in houses made of stone slabs.  The girls are skilled in weaving and embroidery, and the boys are great wood carvers.  They live peaceful lives in their villages. (1)

但是 , 每當有喜事 , 全部落的人都會聚在一起幫忙 , 非常熱鬧 .  像最近大頭目的兒子巴清要結婚了 .  因為他是頭目的兒子 , 更要好好準備一番 .  在幾個月前 , 巴清就和他的朋友們 , 忙著蓋新屋 , 準備結婚用 .  你看 , 巴清一邊蓋房屋 , 一邊笑 , 多興奮啊 !  排灣族的婚禮很特別 , 大家要穿上傳統的衣服 , 準備豐盛的食物 , 還要跳舞 , 唱歌 , 盪鞦韆呢 !  來 , 我們一起去參加 . However, when there's a joyous occasion the whole village comes together to help.  It can be very lively.  For example the chief's son Ba-qing is getting married, and because he's the chief's son he needs to be ready.  In the few months before the wedding Ba-qing and his friends will be busy constructing a new house for his wedding.  Look, Ba-qing is smiling, excited over the construction of his home.  The Paiwan wedding ceremony is very special, everyone needs to wear traditional clothes, help prepare a great feast, dance, sing songs and swing!  Come, let's join in the fun together! (2)


排灣青年怎樣找太太 ? How Do Paiwan Braves Find a Wife?

巴清的新娘叫做琳娜 , 她是隔壁部落大頭目的女兒 , 說起他們認識的經過 , 很好玩 .  依照排灣人的習俗 , 每天晚上 , 男孩子要到他看上的女孩窗前唱歌 , 一首接一首 , 直到深夜 .  最好玩的是 , 男孩們還成群結隊去 "找小姐" . Ba-qing's bride's name is Lina, she's the daughter of a chief in the next village over.  The tale of how they met is quite amusing.  In accordance with Paiwan custom, the boys sing in front of the window of the girls they like every evening, song after song, until very late at night.  The most amusing part is how boys form groups to "look for ladies."

"找小姐" 是排灣青年找友的特殊風俗 , 每天晚上 , 排灣青年三 , 五結伴 , 帶著檳榔 , 糖果到女孩家拜訪 , 女孩就趁這個機會挑選她喜歡的男孩 , 巴清就是這樣被琳娜選中的 . "Looking for ladies" is a custom unique to Paiwan youths.  Groups of three to five Paiwan braves will bring betel nut and candies to girl's homes each evening, and the girls will use this opportunity to choose boys they like.  Ba-qing met Lina in exactly this way. (3)

不過 , 巴清別太得意 , 被選上了還有好多事情要做 .  他要幫琳娜除田裡的雜草 , 上山砍柴 ... 做好多好多事 , 才能贏得琳娜的芳心 , 去女方家提親 , 討論聘禮和婚期 . Ba-qing shouldn't be too proud, however.  Being picked equals a lot of new responsibilities.  He needs to help Lina weed her [family's] fields, chop firewood in the mountains and many other things.  This is how he will win her heart and be able to propose a marriage to her family.  Then he will have to discuss wedding gifts and a wedding date with them.


看 !  各式各樣的聘禮 . Look!  All Kinds of Wedding Gifts

大頭目家的聘禮最隆重 , 不但要有各種生活上的用品 , 像鐵鍋 , 鐵耙等 , 還要有珍貴的傳家寶 , 像陶壺 , 琉璃珠 , 甚至還要送一塊土地給女方 . The wedding gifts given by the chief's family are the most important, and include daily necessities such as iron pots, rakes and precious family heirlooms like clay pots and beads.  They are even required to give the bride's family a plot of land.

然後就要決定結婚的日子 , 如果十天後結婚 , 就拿兩條繩子各打十個結 , 交給雙方 .  每過一天 , 就解開一個結 , 等結通通結開了 , 婚禮就到了 . [After these gifts are given] they need to choose a date for the wedding.  If the wedding is to take place in ten days, then two lengths of ropes tied into ten knots each are given to each family.  On each day a knot is untied, and when all of the knots are untied it's time for the wedding ceremony.


婚禮前 , 忙忙忙 . Very Busy Before the Wedding Ceremony

婚期決定以後 , 婚禮要用的東西得一樣一樣準備起來 , 吃的 , 喝的 , 穿的 , 戴的一樣也不能少 .  親戚們都趕來幫忙 , 巴清的媽媽和他的姐妹們忙著舂米 , 蒸酒 , 包米糕 .  她們包的米糕叫 "阿外" , 是用芋頭葉裹著小米和豬肉 , 做成的長條型米糕 , 它是排灣族特別的 "定情" 食物呢 ! After the wedding date is decided upon, everything for the wedding must be carefully prepared.  Food, drinks, clothes and other items are all essential.  The family quickly arrives to help as Ba-qing's mother and sisters busy themselves pounding rice, steaming wine and wrapping rice cakes.  The rice cakes they are preparing are called "awai," they're long cakes of millet and pork wrapped in taro leaves.  They're a special betrothal food of the Paiwan Tribe. (4)

另外還要在衣服上縫珠子 , 這樣穿上它跳舞時 , 才會有叮叮咚咚美妙聲音 .  頭上戴的鮮花也得事先準備好 . [Ba-qing's mother and sisters] also have to sew beads onto clothing so that when they're worn during a dance they make the beautiful "ding ding dong dong" sound.  Fresh flowers for headwear must also be prepared in advance.

巴清和他的朋友們 , 更要上山去打獵 , 抓山豬野鹿 , 準備迎親和宴客用 .  另外 , 還得到山上搬石板 , 蓋新屋 , 可得忙碌好多天呢 ! Ba-qing and his friends also need to go hunting in the mountains in order to bring back wild boar and deer for the wedding feast.  In addition they also need to build a stone slab house in the mountains, a task which keeps them busy for many days.

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1. This paragraph is problematic.  Overgeneralizing over any ethnic group poses problems, and this paragraph is no exception to the rule.  For one thing, Paiwan don't all live in the "high mountains" of south Taiwan.  Some actually live on the coast.  For another thing, many Paiwan people don't subsist on hunting and farming these days.  Many of them have regular jobs, and younger people often leave their village to go work in one of Taiwan's big cities.  Houses made of stone slabs?  Very few Paiwan people choose to live in them now, preferring instead modern homes with modern conveniences.  Many of the villages are trying to keep the weaving, embroidery and wood carving traditions alive, with mixed results.

2. The "swing" is a special kind of tribal swing suspended from poles.  It's often used during festival occasions.  It probably goes without saying, but not that many Paiwan tribal members build slab houses for their weddings in 2026.

3. I wonder what "candy" would mean in a traditional Paiwan context.  I've never heard of any traditional type of Paiwan candy, but maybe there is such a thing.

4. Regional pronunciations of "awai" vary, and no, it's not a food exclusive to the Paiwan Tribe.  I've also heard it pronounced "avai" or "abai."