. This book was published by 財團法人台灣養殖魚業發展基金會 in 2012 and the English parts were written/translated by me. There will be five (more) of these entries, covering the ports in Kaohsiung, south Tainan, Taitung and Hualien that I didn't get to during the years I lived in Pingtung.
花蓮漁樂線
Portside Fun in Hualien
花蓮 , 如同台灣東部的海洋瑰寶 , 沿近海因為黑潮流經 , 帶來大量的漁獲 , 最近一般海洋休閒觀光的風潮也吹到花蓮 , 不僅增加許多海岸遊憩設施 , 也發展精采刺激的海上體驗 , 讓人更容易親近這片美麗的海洋 . Hualien is like a treasure washed onto on the shores of east Taiwan, and upon this treasure the "black current" in turn washes up scores of fish. Recently the trend toward marine tourism has spread to Hualien, and this trend has spurred both [the creation of] new coastal recreational facilities and new, exciting marine experiences which bring visitors into close contact with the beautiful ocean.
來到花蓮該怎麼樣暢遊漁鄉 ? 建議大家可以分成花蓮南 , 北兩條休閒漁業動線來玩 , 在 "北花蓮" , 大家可先從花蓮市郊的觀光休閒碼頭出發 , 在 "南花蓮" , 則以石梯漁港為據點 , 深度感受花蓮山與海豐富觀光資源 , 以及令人流連忘返的海景魅力 ! How to enjoy the maritime side of Hualien when you come to visit? We recommend that you divide [the county] into two routes: north and south. In "north Hualien" you can start from the Hualien Leisure Pier on the outskirts of Hualien City. In "south Hualien" you can use Shrti Fishing Port as your starting point. From [both of these routes] you can experience the wealth of [natural] resources that Hualien's mountains and seas have to offer, while at the same time taking in the unforgettable views along the coast!
How to go?
花蓮觀光休閒碼頭 --
Hualien Leisure Pier --
由台北出 , 發開車由台9線方向行駛至花蓮市 , 循中山路南行到底 , 左轉海濱路 , 接港口路 , 再左轉至港濱路 , 即可到達花蓮漁港休閒碼頭 . From Taipei, drive toward Highway 9 in the direction of Hualien City. [Once you're in Hualien City], follow Zhongshan Road south to the end, turn left on Haibin Road, continue straight to Xiangkou Road, and then turn left onto Gangbin Road. [This route] will lead you to the Hualien Fishing Port's Leisure Pier.
石梯漁港 --
Shrti Fishing Port
花蓮出發 , 沿濱海公路南下 , 往台東方向 , 於台11線64.5公里處 .
Leaving from Hualien, follow the Yanbinhai ("coastal") Highway south toward Taitung, then take Highway 11 to kilometer 64.5.
精彩樂活
A Wonderful Life
花蓮觀光休閒碼頭位於花蓮市郊 , 距離花蓮市區僅僅約十分鐘短暫的車程即可到達 , 交通相當便利 , 成為花蓮觀光遊憩的新地標 , 民眾可以由此出海 , 到太平洋上尋找鯨豚的蹤跡 . The Hualien Leisure Pier is on the outskirts of Hualien City, about ten minutes away by car. The transportation [to and from this place] is very convenient, and it has become an important tourist site in Hualien. Visitors can walk out onto the pier and search for signs of whales and dolphins in the Pacific Ocean.
騎著單車遊花蓮 , 可是現在流行的新玩法 ! 全長十五公里的花蓮港濱自行車道 , 行經花蓮濱海公園 , 曙光橋 , 賞鯨碼頭以及奇萊鼻燈塔 ... 等景點 , 沿途可欣賞美麗的花蓮山海風情 , 以及一望無際的海洋景緻 . Cycling through Hualien has become very popular. The 15 kilometer long Hualien Portside Bike Trail passes through Hualien's Seashore Park, over the Shuguang Bridge, past the whale watching pier, past the Qilaibi Lighthouse and other scenic spots. Along the way you can enjoy the beautiful mountain and coastal scenery alongside the endless ocean.
花蓮港賞鯨豚之旅 Whale and Dolphin Watching from Hualien Port
從花蓮港出發的賞鯨豚之旅 , 最遠會航行至距離花蓮港北方的清水斷崖 , 一路上除有鯨豚相伴 , 還可以從海面欣賞七星潭 , 海岸山脈以及中央山脈等山海美景 , 讓人體驗16世紀西班牙人看見台灣讚嘆起 "福爾摩沙" 的驚奇與感動 . Whale watching tours departing from Hualien Port go as far north as the Qingshui Cliffs. Along the way you'll be accompanied by whales and dolphins, and you'll be able to view Qixingtan, the Coastal Mountain Range and the Central Mountain Range from the sea. [A trip aboard a whale watching boat] will allow you to experience both the surprise and joy that Spanish sailors felt when they first viewed Taiwan in the 16th century, these sailors dubbing it "Formosa" ["the beautiful island"]. (1)
緊臨花蓮市海岸的南濱公園 , 設置有美侖美奐的造景以及休憩設施 , 民眾可以到海堤邊觀海遊憩 , 入夜後 , 美食攤位林立的南濱觀光夜市 , 邊吹海風邊嘗小吃 , 每每吸引眾多遊客到此一遊 . The Southshore Park is near the coast in Hualien City. It has been beautifully landscaped and has [its own] recreational facilities. [During the day] visitors can go to the seawall and enjoy the ocean view, while at night the Southshore Park hosts a night market where you can enjoy the sea breeze while sampling various foods. This park attracts many tourists. (2)
橫跨於美崙溪口上方的曙光橋 , 過去為鐵道通過的橋樑 , 而現今則改建為木棧橋 , 提供一般人及自行車通行 , 因為站在橋上 , 能看見太平洋朝陽曙光升起 , 因此而得名 . The Shuguang Bridge spans the Meilun River. It was once a railway bridge used by trains, but has since been converted into a wooden bridge provided for the use of pedestrians and cyclists. While standing on the bridge you can see the sun rise from the Pacific Ocean, and this is why the bridge has been named "Shuguang".
[曙光 or "Shuguang" = "dawn" or "the light of dawn"]
七星潭風景區 , 雖然被稱為潭 , 其實是形狀如同新月般的美麗海灣 , 佇足在此 , 吹海風 , 戲水都是種享受 , 而岸邊設置有景觀平台 , 石雕藝術品 , 休憩廣場以及涼亭 , 因為沒有光害 , 也是觀賞滿天星斗的好地方 . Even though the Qixingtan Scenic Area is called a "lake" [潭 or "tan" = "lake"], it's really a beautiful moon-shaped bay. Standing in the bay, with the wind blowing in from the ocean, and playing in the water there is very pleasant. There are viewing platforms along the beach, stone sculptures, ecological plazas and pavilions. There's no light pollution there, so it's a good place for stargazing. (3)
七星潭定置網 Qixingtan Fixed Net Fishing
定置網 , 是於花蓮七星潭海面上的特殊的漁業景觀 , 可見一大片繩索結成的特殊網具 , 因為七星潭沒有港口 , 所以可以看見漁民以小型膠筏搶灘 , 到海面上接駁漁貨回岸上拍賣 , 這也成為七星潭的一大特色 ! Fixed net fishing is a special type of fishing seen off the coast around Qixingtan. [This method] employs large nets suspended from ropes. Since there is no port in Qixingtan, fishermen use small rubber rafts to embark from the beach, bring in the day's catch, and return to shore, where they auction off their fish. This practice has become a distinctive feature of Qixingtan. (4)
柴魚博物館是台灣第一座以柴魚製作為主題的地方博物館 , 主要的展覽內容包含 : 柴魚製作的介紹 , 柴魚DIY體驗以及七星潭的漁業生態 ... 等 , 這裡不但有歷史 , 也有文化 , 還可以吸取豐富的新知 . The Bonito Museum is the first museum in Taiwan to introduce bonito processing to the public. The main exhibition hall explains how bonito are processed, and there's also a bonito DIY activity and exhibits detailing the fisheries ecology of Qixingtan. This place doesn't only have history and culture, it can also [help you] soak in a lot of new knowledge.
獲選2010年十大魅力漁港 "享受刺激" 的石梯漁港 , 是一個充滿漁鄉風情的純樸漁港 , 也是第一艘娛樂漁船的發源地 . 近年來 , 因為賞鯨盛行 , 也讓漁港聲名大噪 , 優美海岸山脈 , 加上湛藍太平洋的無敵海景 , 背山面海的獨特環境 , 可是漁港的一大特色 . Shrti Fishing Port was selected as one of the ten most charming fishing ports in 2010. It's a more traditional fishing port, and feels like an old fishing village. It's also one of the first places to promote recreational fishing. In recent years the port has grown famous through the whale and dolphin watching tours [which depart from there]. The stunning coastal mountains and the matchless ocean scenery of the blue Pacific, with the peaks rising from the waves all around, are a defining characteristic of this fishing port. (5)
石梯坪名字的由來 , 是因為岩盤突伸入海 , 長短不一 , 但是陸上卻是平坦 , 地形很像階梯而得名 , 目前已經被規劃成為風景特定區 , 並且還有露營區的設置 , 選擇在此夜宿 , 看星星觀濤都是很棒的安排 . The name "Shrtiping" ["stone steps"] comes from the stone slabs of varying lengths which protrude into the sea. [From] the land [further away from the coast], these stone slabs look like stairs. Shrtiping has been designated a special scenic area with camping facilities provided. Spending the night here, beneath the stars and in the presence of the waves, is a great idea. (6)
"巴克力藍" , 是花蓮阿美族人對於花蓮石梯坪海域的稱呼 , 幾位原住民藝術家成立傳承阿美族文化的巴克力藍藝術村 , 走入藝術村你可以佇足海邊 , 欣賞藝術家的作品 , 還能體驗阿美族傳統文化 , 更有創意料理讓人大快朵頤 . "Bakelilan" is the Amis name for Shrtiping. Several Amis artists have established the Bakelilan Arts Village here as a means of representing their culture. After entering the Arts Village you can stand on the beach, admire local artwork, and sample both the traditional culture of the Amis people and their creative cuisine.
柴魚博物館 "打打喜生魚片" The Bonito Museum's "Dadaxi Sashimi"
"打打喜" 生魚片 , 是傳統日本四國的漁夫料理 , 作法是將鰹魚魚身切成條狀後 , 利用乾枯稻草 , 大火燒炙魚肉表面後 , 立刻淋季桔汁 , 並且用刀背拍打 , 讓桔汁入味 , 再加上薑末和蔥花 , 炭烤的表皮下 , 嚐得到魚肉滿滿的鮮味 . "Dadaxi" sashimi is a traditional fisherman's dish from Shikoku in Japan. The bonito is cut into strips, and then seared using a fire kindled with dry straw burning at a high temperature. Orange juice is poured onto the strips once they're cooked, and the strips are pounded with the flat of a knife to infuse the orange juice flavor into the bonito meat. After this point you add minced ginger and chopped green onion. The bonito meat has a hearty flavor beneath its charcoal grilled skin. (7)
石梯坪旭蟹料理 Shrtiping Red Frog Crab Cuisine
抓旭蟹是近年來石梯漁港新興的海上體驗活動 , 抓上來後的旭蟹 , 也是民眾不能錯過的好滋味 ! 雖然旭蟹有 "海臭蟲" 的俗稱 , 這是因為旭蟹死後會發出難聞味道 , 但新鮮旭蟹可一點都不臭 , 不但味美 , 肉質也十分飽滿 , 彈牙 . In recent years the catching of red frog crabs has become a popular "marine experience activity" at Shrtiping Fishing Port. The red frog crabs caught there offer a unique taste that no visitor should miss! Although [this type of crab] is sometimes referred to as "the stinky ocean bug," this is only because of the smell which emanates from them after they die. Fresh red frog crabs don't smell bad at all, they're delicious, and their plump meat is very tender.
巴克力藍 "原住民創意料理" Bakelilan Aboriginal Cuisine
在巴克力藍藝術村裡 , 你能享受到傳統阿美族的美食 , 像是 : 煙燻飛魚 , 飛魚芋頭握飯 ... 等 , 原住民主廚也將傳統與現代融合 , 創造 "沒有菜單" 的阿美族創意料理 , 因為新鮮食材可是由主廚親自浮潛抓回來的 , 菜色會隨季節而有不同 . At Bakelilan Arts Village you can enjoy traditional Amis cuisine such as smoked flying fish, flying fish with rice and taro and other dishes. The aboriginal chef combines traditional and modern [cooking techniques], creating a type of "menu-free" Amis cuisine. This cuisine relies upon foods caught by the chef [himself] while snorkeling, and it changes with the seasons. (8)
Related Entries 相關的文章:
1. This "Formosa" or "ilha Formosa" is actually from Portuguese, not Spanish. Was the Portuguese sailor exclaiming "Beautiful island!" from a Spanish ship? I'm not well versed enough in that chapter of Taiwan's history to say.
2. I've been here a couple times. I remember it being very dirty.
3. If you're going in the summer bring an umbrella. It gets very hot and there's little shade.
4. This type of fishing isn't exclusive to Qixingtan. I've seen it done in Taitung as well.
5. "Quaint" maybe, but also economically depressed. This area is far from everything, and a lot of the people living there are just squeaking by. I recommend visiting it for the scenery, which is great. Any services or local foods introduced here might not be available when you get there.
6. The worst camping trip I ever had was at Shrtiping. It was summer, it was hot, and the noise from the people in the parking lot made it impossible to sleep.
7. I think this one might be history. Sounds kind of good though, doesn't it?
8. "Menu-free" = $$$. Local aboriginal restaurants like this also have very unreliable hours of operation. If you're going to this type of place always make sure it's still open first.
