Hey, hey, hey, simmer down there, Kaohsiung friends! If you've been reading this blog awhile you'll know my answer to the question posed above. And no, for the record, I do NOT think Kaohsiung sucks, even though that city's haters are, it must be admitted, many.
For what it's worth common complaints regarding Kaohsiung are listed below. Agree or disagree, you'll have to admit that most of these complaints are, to one extent or another, things that people say.
1. "The Air is Terrible"
This one is, I'm afraid, usually true. On your average day in Kaohsiung the quality of the air is bad, most likely over 100 on the Air Quality Index. This would put Kaohsiung's air quality between "fair" and "poor" for most of the year, though there are days when the air quality drops even further down toward "very poor" (150-200 AQI).
And no, we can't blame all of Kaohsiung's air on China. For one thing the wind direction doesn't always match up, and for another thing the Taiwan Strait is from 130 to 180 KM across. The air quality in Xiamen and other places across the Strait certainly influences the air in Kaohsiung at times, but definitely not all the time.
The real questions are: 1) Is Kaohsiung's air always bad?, and 2) Is it always bad in relation to the rest of the west coast? The answer to both of these questions is no. There are times when the wind actually blows the air pollution away from the city (you're welcome, Tainan!), just as there are times when rain clears the air to acceptable levels.
The air in places north of Kaohsiung is better for now, but then again the air is blowing from north to south, so of course it is. At some point in the near future the air will switch directions, and the air in Kaohsiung, such as it is, will improve.
2. "The Traffic is Terrible"
For some parts of Kaohsiung this is definitely true, but then again Kaohsiung City is an oddly-shaped administrative district. When people describe Kaohsiung, they often mean everything west of the Zhongshan Freeway, conveniently ignoring that whole huge, other part of Kaohsiung in the mountains. Some people also tend to ignore everything north of Gangshan or even Nandze, and there's quite a bit of difference between central Kaohsiung and those northern, more outlying areas.
Most of Kaohsiung's traffic is concentrated on or near the Zhongshan Freeway, the 88 Expressway, or the #10 Expressway as it enters Zuoying. The farther you get from these three thoroughfares (with some exceptions), the better off you are. Aside from these areas the traffic around the department stores (especially Dream Mall) tends to be worse, while driving around other areas tends to be better.
You'll also want to watch yourself around Highway 17 (trucks!) in Linyuan and Xiaogang, but I think that overall Kaohsiung's traffic isn't nearly as bad as what I've seen in parts of Taichung and New Taipei City.
In my opinion the worst place to drive in Taiwan is downtown Tainan on a Saturday night. I've seen countless traffic accidents in that area, especially near the two Shin Kong Mitsukoshis.
3. "There's No Good Food There"
This misconception is, I think, largely attributable to population distribution. There are more people living in north Taiwan, and thus their food tends to be more widely known. There are also more kinds of people in north Taiwan, so more niche types of restaurants have an easier time surviving. I wouldn't try to argue that Kaohsiung is just as "multicultural" as north Taiwan, but its relative lack of multiculturalism doesn't mean there's nothing good to eat there.
I'd say there's a lot of good traditional food in Kaohsiung, though none of it is as famous as similar fare in Taipei. Restaurants in Kaohsiung also don't tend to look as nice, though there are some exceptions.
The above said, there definitely isn't as much good foreign/Western food in Kaohsiung as there is in Taipei. I know of a good pizza place, I know of a few good burger places, but by and large no, Kaohsiung can't compete with Taipei in that regard.
4. "There's Nothing to Do There"
If you're talking about indoor activities no, there isn't as much to do in Kaohsiung. Kaohsiung certainly has its venues, and many touring acts make stops in Kaohsiung, but those looking for the most awesome comic book/manga convention or the fanciest bar are probably better off in Taipei.
Outdoor places? It's debatable. Good outdoor recreation areas in Kaohsiung are definitely more difficult to get to using public transportation, but then again many of these recreation areas tend to be less crowded than what you'll find up north. Speaking very generally, Taipei has rain while Kaohsiung has heat, so I guess you'll have to pick your poison.
5. "It's Too Hot"
In the summer? Yes, it is. But where in Taiwan isn't too hot in the summer? I think that in this instance what people are really pointing to is a lack of trees along roadways and other public spaces. If this is what their problem with Kaohsiung really is, I'd agree with them. Let's plant more trees in Kaohsiung. That would be a good thing to do.
6. "It's Too Hard to Get Around"
This one I kind of agree with. If you live outside the downtown area and don't have a car, getting around Kaohsiung can be a pain. Live in Lingya District? No problem! Live in Dashu or Meinong? Good luck getting to your destination!
This said, Kaohsiung's public transportation system has come a long way since I first visited back in 1999. Back then there was no MRT, no HSR and no Light Rail. Back then I would have arrived via the Kaohsiung Train Station, and from that point I would have been pondering bus schedules or paying way too much for taxis.
7. "It's Not 'International' Enough"
This criticism I can get to, though some might find this very thing a selling point. Kaohsiung, for a city its size, really doesn't have that many foreign residents, and to make matters worse the Kaohsiung International Airport isn't as "international" as it's made out to be. Kaohsiung is more isolated with respect to international travel and trade, despite the presence of the Kaohsiung Port and its subsidiary industries. You just don't see the proliferation of foreign (and foreign-owned) restaurants, signage in other languages, and that "something for everyone" vibe you get in Taipei.
Then again, the lack of all that often translates (heh heh) into a lower cost of living. Sure, if you want to find X number of foreign friends to party with in Taipei it's not a problem, but then again you're often paying for that opportunity in more ways than one.
8. "It Lacks History"
Does it though? Kaohsiung has a history stretching back to pre-Han times and there are archaeological sites to prove it. Just because someone doesn't see this history doesn't mean it's not there.
People sometimes voice this criticism when comparing Kaohsiung to Tainan. Kaohsiung might not have as many big, obvious ex-Dutch forts to speak of, and people might not lavish online praise for its traditional foods and markets, but that doesn't mean you can't also find these things south of Tainan.
9. "It Smells Weird"
Old drains, my friend. I can't refute this one, because on hot days, in the middle of the summer, it's true. So many people, living in such proximity, urinating or defecating into the same aging infrastructure. And that's not even to mention the numerous industrial zones in the city, emptying Lord Knows What into local waterways and storm drains.
One of Kaohsiung's biggest problems is its aging infrastructure. Sometimes it does smell bad. Sometimes the power goes out. Sometimes the water stops running. The Kaohsiung City Government is aware of the problem, but it's not an easy one to fix.
But hey, just about every big city smells weird sometimes. Perhaps the trick is in not minding it?
10. "The Music Scene Sucks?"
This was a new one on me. Two musician friends in Taitung recently returned from a trip to Kaohsiung and announced that the music scene there was "dead."
Their source? Some heavily tattooed friend of a friend that works in a bar in Zuoying. Oh, and two other people they know who live in Kaohsiung, one of whom told them: "It's tough. If you want to play around here you have to make your own scene."
Is this true? I honestly have no idea, but there seem to be plenty of places to play music in Kaohsiung.
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