2025年3月13日 星期四

Yuli Municipality, Hualien County 花蓮縣玉里鎮


Yuli is north of Fuli and east of Zhuoxi.  Its train station is one of the East Rift Valley's major transit points, and its population is much larger than that of surrounding townships. 玉里位於富里的北部 、 卓溪的東部 。  玉里車站花東縱谷重要的車站的其中一個 , 玉里的人口也比鄰近的鄉鎮多。

Yuli has a lively and interesting history.  Several aboriginal groups have migrated through and at times settled in the area.  These groups didn't only include members of the Bunun and Amis tribe(s), but also members of the Makadao, Taivoan and Siraya tribes who originally lived on the other side of the Central Mountain Range in what is now Tainan, Kaohsiung and Pingtung.  The various tribal groups who came to settle in what is now Yuli had rather contentious relationships with later Japanese and Chinese settlers who arrived later. 玉里的歷史很有趣 ,不同的時期有不同的原住民族群陸續來到玉里 。  不只有布農阿美族 , 還有從今日的臺南高雄屏東越過中央山脈來的馬卡道 、 大武壠西拉雅。  這些原住民族群間的關係不一定是良好的,  他們和之後來的日本人和人之間的關係也充滿爭議性。

According to the last census, 20,137 people live in Yuli. 上次的人口統計記載玉里的人口是20137人 。


For me the highlight of any trip to Yuli is the drive along the Yuchang Highway from Changbin Township in Taitung to the Antong Hot Spring Area.  This is one of the most scenic areas on the east coast, and the Yuchang Highway is always in better condition than other cross-mountain "highways" between Taitung and Hualien. 從臺東長濱鄉安通溫泉區的這段玉長公路是我認為去玉里的最好風景。  這條公路是東部風景最美的 , 而且它的路況也比其他往返臺東花蓮的山路好很多 。




The patch of grey in the distance is the East Rift Valley, which lies between the Central and Coastal mountain ranges. 遠處灰灰的地是中央山脈海岸山脈間的花東縱谷




This is further down the mountain, closer to the Antong Hot Spring Area.  This stream (a branch of the Antong River) is also close to the entrance to the Antong Cross-Mountain Trail, which I'm guessing is out of commission after recent earthquakes and typhoons. 往山下靠近安通溫泉區 。  這條溪 (安通溪的支流) 也在安通越嶺道口附近 。  我猜步道可能因為最近的地震和颱風封閉了 。


Another branch of the Antong River, not far away. 這條也是安通溪的部分 。



Still further down the highway is the hot spring area.  That's Yu Hot Spring in the background. 繼續往下走 , 在溫泉區裡面 。  後面的建築是玉溫泉


After the Antong Hot Spring Area our next destination was Chrke Mountain and its famous daylily fields BUT, as we soon discovered, the road up there is closed until April.  There's an alternate route up to that area, but it looked scary so we decided to abort mission. 安通溫泉以後我們往赤科山的金針花田前進 , 卻發現上山的道路四月才通車 。  雖然有其他的路可以上去 , 但我們擔心危險,所以決定改天再上山 。

The closest we got to Chrke Mountain was Puding Village, where this photo was taken.  That's the Central Mountain Range in the distance. 我在最靠近赤柯山埔頂部落拍的照片 。 背景是中央山脈


North of Chrke Mountain, along Highway 193, is the Chunrh Green Tunnel.  There are a lot of charming villages on this highway, and I'd love to explore it in greater detail during future trips. 順著193公路 赤科山北部有春日綠色隧道 。  路上有許多可愛的農村和部落, 改天再來探索吧 !


Southwest of the Green Tunnel, in Central Yuli, is the Formosan Black Bear Education Center.  It's a tiny place, and probably not worth visiting in its own right.  If, however, you're already in the area, it's worth a look.  台灣黑熊教育館玉里市區(綠色隧道的西南部) 。  你可以順路來這棟博物館參觀,聽聽導覽人員為你介紹臺灣黑熊的習性與目前正在進行的保育工作。

The Yuli version of stinky tofu is within walking distance of this facility. 玉里的臭豆腐在教育館附近 。


There are a lot of interesting churches and temples in the East Rift Valley.  Pictured above is the Yuli Presbyterian Church, not far from the Yuli Train Station. 花東縱谷有許多有特色教堂和廟宇 。  上面照片中的玉里長老教會玉里車站附近 。

And while we're discussing Central Yuli, I'd like to say that it doesn't really matter where you buy Yuli noodles, this area's most famous local food.  I've had Yuli noodles at several different places over the years, and I never noticed much difference. 對 ! 以我的觀點,在哪一家餐廳吃玉里麵不重要 , 因為我吃過幾家餐廳的玉里麵 ,我覺得沒什麼差別!


This is the center of town.  As much as I like Yuli Municipality, I've never found Central Yuli that interesting.  I've stopped here to eat more times than I can remember, but I never stay that long. 玉里市區的中心。 雖然我很喜歡玉里鎮 , 但是我覺得玉里市區沒有特色 。  我在附近的時候都會來玉里市區吃飯 ,只是都不會停留很久。

After eating lunch in Yuli we tried to go to the Yuli Wetlands, but the road to it was closed as well. 我們在玉里吃完午餐後開車往玉里濕地 , 可惜那條路也封了 。


Lastly, on our way north to Ruisui, we stopped at the "Sanxuan Betel Nut Grove," which turned out to not be a thing anymore.  Yet another casualty of nature's wrath? 最後,開往北邊的瑞穗的路上,我們來到三軒檳榔園 。  可是這個景點好像不見了 ,我們沒看到任何顯眼的標示, 可能是最近的颱風和地震的關係。

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2025年3月7日 星期五

花蓮漁樂線 Portside Fun in Hualien


The Chinese below was taken from "A New Appreciation of Fishing" 漁樂新視界.  This book was published by 財團法人台灣養殖魚業發展基金會 in 2012 and the English parts were written/translated by me.  There will be five (more) of these entries, covering the ports in Kaohsiung, south Tainan, Taitung and Hualien that I didn't get to during the years I lived in Pingtung.


花蓮漁樂線
Portside Fun in Hualien

花蓮 , 如同台灣東部的海洋瑰寶 , 沿近海因為黑潮流經 , 帶來大量的漁獲 , 最近一般海洋休閒觀光的風潮也吹到花蓮 , 不僅增加許多海岸遊憩設施 , 也發展精采刺激的海上體驗 , 讓人更容易親近這片美麗的海洋 . Hualien is like a treasure washed onto on the shores of east Taiwan, and upon this treasure the "black current" in turn washes up scores of fish.  Recently the trend toward marine tourism has spread to Hualien, and this trend has spurred both [the creation of] new coastal recreational facilities and new, exciting marine experiences which bring visitors into close contact with the beautiful ocean.

來到花蓮該怎麼樣暢遊漁鄉 ?  建議大家可以分成花蓮南 , 北兩條休閒漁業動線來玩 , 在 "北花蓮" , 大家可先從花蓮市郊的觀光休閒碼頭出發 , 在 "南花蓮" , 則以石梯漁港為據點 , 深度感受花蓮山與海豐富觀光資源 , 以及令人流連忘返的海景魅力 ! How to enjoy the maritime side of Hualien when you come to visit?  We recommend that you divide [the county] into two routes: north and south.  In "north Hualien" you can start from the Hualien Leisure Pier on the outskirts of Hualien City.  In "south Hualien" you can use Shrti Fishing Port as your starting point.  From [both of these routes] you can experience the wealth of [natural] resources that Hualien's mountains and seas have to offer, while at the same time taking in the unforgettable views along the coast!


How to go?

花蓮觀光休閒碼頭 --
Hualien Leisure Pier --

由台北出 , 發開車由台9線方向行駛至花蓮市 , 循中山路南行到底 , 左轉海濱路 , 接港口路 , 再左轉至港濱路 , 即可到達花蓮漁港休閒碼頭 . From Taipei, drive toward Highway 9 in the direction of Hualien City.  [Once you're in Hualien City], follow Zhongshan Road south to the end, turn left on Haibin Road, continue straight to Xiangkou Road, and then turn left onto Gangbin Road.  [This route] will lead you to the Hualien Fishing Port's Leisure Pier.

石梯漁港 --
Shrti Fishing Port

花蓮出發 , 沿濱海公路南下 , 往台東方向 , 於台11線64.5公里處 .
Leaving from Hualien, follow the Yanbinhai ("coastal") Highway south toward Taitung, then take Highway 11 to kilometer 64.5.

精彩樂活
A Wonderful Life



花蓮觀光休閒碼頭位於花蓮市郊 , 距離花蓮市區僅僅約十分鐘短暫的車程即可到達 , 交通相當便利 , 成為花蓮觀光遊憩的新地標 , 民眾可以由此出海 , 到太平洋上尋找鯨豚的蹤跡 . The Hualien Leisure Pier is on the outskirts of Hualien City, about ten minutes away by car.  The transportation [to and from this place] is very convenient, and it has become an important tourist site in Hualien.  Visitors can walk out onto the pier and search for signs of whales and dolphins in the Pacific Ocean.



騎著單車遊花蓮 , 可是現在流行的新玩法 !  全長十五公里的花蓮港濱自行車道 , 行經花蓮濱海公園 , 曙光橋 , 賞鯨碼頭以及奇萊鼻燈塔 ... 等景點 , 沿途可欣賞美麗的花蓮山海風情 , 以及一望無際的海洋景緻 . Cycling through Hualien has become very popular.  The 15 kilometer long Hualien Portside Bike Trail passes through Hualien's Seashore Park, over the Shuguang Bridge, past the whale watching pier, past the Qilaibi Lighthouse and other scenic spots.  Along the way you can enjoy the beautiful mountain and coastal scenery alongside the endless ocean.


花蓮港賞鯨豚之旅 Whale and Dolphin Watching from Hualien Port

從花蓮港出發的賞鯨豚之旅 , 最遠會航行至距離花蓮港北方的清水斷崖 , 一路上除有鯨豚相伴 , 還可以從海面欣賞七星潭 , 海岸山脈以及中央山脈等山海美景 , 讓人體驗16世紀西班牙人看見台灣讚嘆起 "福爾摩沙" 的驚奇與感動 . Whale watching tours departing from Hualien Port go as far north as the Qingshui Cliffs.  Along the way you'll be accompanied by whales and dolphins, and you'll be able to view Qixingtan, the Coastal Mountain Range and the Central Mountain Range from the sea.  [A trip aboard a whale watching boat] will allow you to experience both the surprise and joy that Spanish sailors felt when they first viewed Taiwan in the 16th century, these sailors dubbing it "Formosa" ["the beautiful island"]. (1)



緊臨花蓮市海岸的南濱公園 , 設置有美侖美奐的造景以及休憩設施 , 民眾可以到海堤邊觀海遊憩 , 入夜後 , 美食攤位林立的南濱觀光夜市 , 邊吹海風邊嘗小吃 , 每每吸引眾多遊客到此一遊 . The Southshore Park is near the coast in Hualien City.  It has been beautifully landscaped and has [its own] recreational facilities.  [During the day] visitors can go to the seawall and enjoy the ocean view, while at night the Southshore Park hosts a night market where you can enjoy the sea breeze while sampling various foods.  This park attracts many tourists. (2)



橫跨於美崙溪口上方的曙光橋 , 過去為鐵道通過的橋樑 , 而現今則改建為木棧橋 , 提供一般人及自行車通行 , 因為站在橋上 , 能看見太平洋朝陽曙光升起 , 因此而得名 . The Shuguang Bridge spans the Meilun River.  It was once a railway bridge used by trains, but has since been converted into a wooden bridge provided for the use of pedestrians and cyclists.  While standing on the bridge you can see the sun rise from the Pacific Ocean, and this is why the bridge has been named "Shuguang". 

[曙光 or "Shuguang" = "dawn" or "the light of dawn"]



七星潭風景區 , 雖然被稱為潭 , 其實是形狀如同新月般的美麗海灣 , 佇足在此 , 吹海風 , 戲水都是種享受 , 而岸邊設置有景觀平台 , 石雕藝術品 , 休憩廣場以及涼亭 , 因為沒有光害 , 也是觀賞滿天星斗的好地方 . Even though the Qixingtan Scenic Area is called a "lake" [潭 or "tan" = "lake"], it's really a beautiful moon-shaped bay.  Standing in the bay, with the wind blowing in from the ocean, and playing in the water there is very pleasant.  There are viewing platforms along the beach, stone sculptures, ecological plazas and pavilions.  There's no light pollution there, so it's a good place for stargazing. (3)


七星潭定置網 Qixingtan Fixed Net Fishing

定置網 , 是於花蓮七星潭海面上的特殊的漁業景觀 , 可見一大片繩索結成的特殊網具 , 因為七星潭沒有港口 , 所以可以看見漁民以小型膠筏搶灘 , 到海面上接駁漁貨回岸上拍賣 , 這也成為七星潭的一大特色 ! Fixed net fishing is a special type of fishing seen off the coast around Qixingtan.  [This method] employs large nets suspended from ropes.  Since there is no port in Qixingtan, fishermen use small rubber rafts to embark from the beach, bring in the day's catch, and return to shore, where they auction off their fish.  This practice has become a distinctive feature of Qixingtan. (4)



柴魚博物館是台灣第一座以柴魚製作為主題的地方博物館 , 主要的展覽內容包含 : 柴魚製作的介紹 , 柴魚DIY體驗以及七星潭的漁業生態 ... 等 , 這裡不但有歷史 , 也有文化 , 還可以吸取豐富的新知 . The Bonito Museum is the first museum in Taiwan to introduce bonito processing to the public.  The main exhibition hall explains how bonito are processed, and there's also a bonito DIY activity and exhibits detailing the fisheries ecology of Qixingtan.  This place doesn't only have history and culture, it can also [help you] soak in a lot of new knowledge.



獲選2010年十大魅力漁港 "享受刺激" 的石梯漁港 , 是一個充滿漁鄉風情的純樸漁港 , 也是第一艘娛樂漁船的發源地 .  近年來 , 因為賞鯨盛行 , 也讓漁港聲名大噪 , 優美海岸山脈 , 加上湛藍太平洋的無敵海景 , 背山面海的獨特環境 , 可是漁港的一大特色 . Shrti Fishing Port was selected as one of the ten most charming fishing ports in 2010.  It's a more traditional fishing port, and feels like an old fishing village.  It's also one of the first places to promote recreational fishing.  In recent years the port has grown famous through the whale and dolphin watching tours [which depart from there].  The stunning coastal mountains and the matchless ocean scenery of the blue Pacific, with the peaks rising from the waves all around, are a defining characteristic of this fishing port. (5)



石梯坪名字的由來 , 是因為岩盤突伸入海 , 長短不一 , 但是陸上卻是平坦 , 地形很像階梯而得名 , 目前已經被規劃成為風景特定區 , 並且還有露營區的設置 , 選擇在此夜宿 , 看星星觀濤都是很棒的安排 . The name "Shrtiping" ["stone steps"] comes from the stone slabs of varying lengths which protrude into the sea.  [From] the land [further away from the coast], these stone slabs look like stairs.  Shrtiping has been designated a special scenic area with camping facilities provided.  Spending the night here, beneath the stars and in the presence of the waves, is a great idea. (6)



"巴克力藍" ,  是花蓮阿美族人對於花蓮石梯坪海域的稱呼 , 幾位原住民藝術家成立傳承阿美族文化的巴克力藍藝術村 , 走入藝術村你可以佇足海邊 , 欣賞藝術家的作品 , 還能體驗阿美族傳統文化 , 更有創意料理讓人大快朵頤 . "Bakelilan" is the Amis name for Shrtiping.  Several Amis artists have established the Bakelilan Arts Village here as a means of representing their culture.  After entering the Arts Village you can stand on the beach, admire local artwork, and sample both the traditional culture of the Amis people and their creative cuisine.


柴魚博物館 "打打喜生魚片" The Bonito Museum's "Dadaxi Sashimi"

"打打喜" 生魚片 , 是傳統日本四國的漁夫料理 , 作法是將鰹魚魚身切成條狀後 , 利用乾枯稻草 , 大火燒炙魚肉表面後 , 立刻淋季桔汁 , 並且用刀背拍打 , 讓桔汁入味 , 再加上薑末和蔥花 , 炭烤的表皮下 , 嚐得到魚肉滿滿的鮮味 . "Dadaxi" sashimi is a traditional fisherman's dish from Shikoku in Japan.  The bonito is cut into strips, and then seared using a fire kindled with dry straw burning at a high temperature.  Orange juice is poured onto the strips once they're cooked, and the strips are pounded with the flat of a knife to infuse the orange juice flavor into the bonito meat.  After this point you add minced ginger and chopped green onion.  The bonito meat has a hearty flavor beneath its charcoal grilled skin. (7)


石梯坪旭蟹料理 Shrtiping Red Frog Crab Cuisine

抓旭蟹是近年來石梯漁港新興的海上體驗活動 , 抓上來後的旭蟹 , 也是民眾不能錯過的好滋味 !  雖然旭蟹有 "海臭蟲" 的俗稱 , 這是因為旭蟹死後會發出難聞味道 , 但新鮮旭蟹可一點都不臭 , 不但味美 , 肉質也十分飽滿 , 彈牙 . In recent years the catching of red frog crabs has become a popular "marine experience activity" at Shrtiping Fishing Port.  The red frog crabs caught there offer a unique taste that no visitor should miss!  Although [this type of crab] is sometimes referred to as "the stinky ocean bug," this is only because of the smell which emanates from them after they die.  Fresh red frog crabs don't smell bad at all, they're delicious, and their plump meat is very tender.


巴克力藍 "原住民創意料理" Bakelilan Aboriginal Cuisine

在巴克力藍藝術村裡 , 你能享受到傳統阿美族的美食 , 像是 : 煙燻飛魚 , 飛魚芋頭握飯 ... 等 , 原住民主廚也將傳統與現代融合 , 創造 "沒有菜單" 的阿美族創意料理 , 因為新鮮食材可是由主廚親自浮潛抓回來的 , 菜色會隨季節而有不同 . At Bakelilan Arts Village you can enjoy traditional Amis cuisine such as smoked flying fish, flying fish with rice and taro and other dishes.  The aboriginal chef combines traditional and modern [cooking techniques], creating a type of "menu-free" Amis cuisine.  This cuisine relies upon foods caught by the chef [himself] while snorkeling, and it changes with the seasons. (8)

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1. This "Formosa" or "ilha Formosa" is actually from Portuguese, not Spanish.  Was the Portuguese sailor exclaiming "Beautiful island!" from a Spanish ship?  I'm not well versed enough in that chapter of Taiwan's history to say.

2. I've been here a couple times.  I remember it being very dirty.

3. If you're going in the summer bring an umbrella.  It gets very hot and there's little shade.

4. This type of fishing isn't exclusive to Qixingtan.  I've seen it done in Taitung as well.

5. "Quaint" maybe, but also economically depressed.  This area is far from everything, and a lot of the people living there are just squeaking by.  I recommend visiting it for the scenery, which is great.  Any services or local foods introduced here might not be available when you get there.

6. The worst camping trip I ever had was at Shrtiping.  It was summer, it was hot, and the noise from the people in the parking lot made it impossible to sleep.

7. I think this one might be history.  Sounds kind of good though, doesn't it?

8. "Menu-free" = $$$.  Local aboriginal restaurants like this also have very unreliable hours of operation.  If you're going to this type of place always make sure it's still open first.

2025年2月27日 星期四

Tainan in the News 台南的新聞 (North 北) 7

There are 37 Districts in Tainan City.  These districts are divided into North Tainan and South Tainan, or those "north of the [Dzengwen] river" and those "south of the [Dzengwen] river."  The districts of North Tainan are further grouped into the Xinying Area, the Beimen Area and the Dzengwen Area.  The districts of South Tainan are further grouped into the Fucheng Area, the Xinfeng Area and the Xinhua Area. 台南市分為37個區 , 這37個地區分成曾文溪北部的北台南跟曾文溪南部的南台南 。 北台南又分為新營地區 、北門地區跟曾文地區 ; 南台南又分為府城地區 、 新豐地區跟新化地區 。



1a. An elderly man walking under a bridge was struck and killed by someone riding a scooter.  The scooter driver fled the scene, and there's an award for information leading to this person's arrest. 台南新營新東路橋地下機車道撞死人  肇事逃逸網友懸賞10萬元緝兇



2a. This article introduces the origins of the "fireworks swarm" activity which takes place in Yanshui during Lantern Festival.  Local food, traffic routes and nearby scenic sites are also discussed. 2025鹽水蜂炮懶人包 : 蜂炮由來 , 路線 + 鹽水美食 , 景點攻略



3a. A car struck two people riding a scooter.  One of these people was knocked into a ditch next to the road.  He/she died at the scene, and his/her passenger was sent to the hospital.  The incident is under investigation. 台南市柳營區汽機車碰撞  1死1傷



4a. Elections for several posts within the Houbi District Farmer's Association are being disputed.  Some of those involved in the election stand accused of intimidation and coercion, and there is talk of taking the matter to court. 後壁農會選舉剛結束  求翻盤人情拜票被解讀遭恐嚇



5a. This article introduces the mud baths available at a hotel in Guandzeling, a hot spring area in Baihe. 關子嶺住宿推薦  在房間裡就可以泥漿溫泉泡到飽 ...

5b. This article introduces a douhua ("iced tofu") restaurant in Baihe. [台南甜點] 白河康家豆花 ! ...



6a. Wu Huo-sheng, the former mayor (里長) of Donghe "Village" (里) in Dongshan District, was recalled from office following public outcry over what many saw as the "unauthorized" approval of poultry farms in the area.  As in many such cases, residents were opposed to the smell and pollution generated by these poultry farms.  The former mayor's replacement has already been voted into office. 台南通過首件里長罷免案  東河里長補選無黨籍潘麗民勝出

6b. Kilns/ovens used to dry/bake the local longyan ("dragon eye") crop in Dongshan were damaged by recent earthquakes, and efforts to repair these facilities are underway. 搶救全國最大產地  台南東山區 "龍眼烘焙窯"  震損嚴重



7a. This article introduces a fried food stand in Jiali.  There are many pictures. [台南美食] 佳里區森林系隱藏版雞排店 ...

7b. Sidewalks around Xinyi Elementary School have been improved. 台南佳里信義國小通學步道升級  綠意構築安心上學步道讚 !

7c. New representatives and other officials were elected to several posts in the Jiali Farmer's Association. 佳里區農會新任理監事選舉  監事同票抽籤林明農幸運當選


8a. A lantern representing a temple in Shuejia was taken to Taoyuan, and displayed in a lantern activity there. 台南市學甲區頭港鎮安宮 "福德爺花燈"  驚艷亮相桃園2025台灣燈會 !



9a. An employee of the Beimen District Farmer's Association stole 2 million NT from an account kept by that organization.  Police are still searching for the alleged perpetrator. 台南北門區農會分部存款遭盜領  警追信用部員工

9b. A re-election was held at the Beimen Farmer's Association.   This election was especially contentious.  The former head of this association has already served time in jail, and despite this fact members of his party wished his son to continue in his stead.  Police were called in to oversee the proceedings. 台南北門農會理監事改選  當選派勝出



10a. A legislator met with various officials in Jiangjun to discuss how they might revitalize the area's tourist industry.  At the center of their discussions was the Mashagou Trail, a local trail system with both ecological and historical features. 爭取馬沙溝人文步道優化經費 林俊憲 : 盼為將軍區觀光注入新活力

10b. Adverse weather conditions have damaged the carrot crop in Jiangjun.  A report has been filed by those responsible, and farmers will likely be compensated for lost crops. 立委陳亭妃通報將軍紅羅蔔災損  區公所完成25公頃災損速報


11a. New measures such as fences and avoidance of egg laying areas have been adopted in Qigu, and the area's aquatic bird population has rebounded as a result. 台南七股水鳥護生啟動  用圍籬 , 忌避蛋降低外在干擾



12a. There was a fire in a house in Xigang.  Two families had to flee their premises but no one was hurt. 台南西港透天厝火警  2戶共6人急撤


13a. No recent news out of Madou.



14a. No recent news out of Guantian.


15a. No recent news out of Lioujia.



16a. No recent news out of Danei.


17a. The Xiaying District Office recently repurposed a parking lot as a practice space for residents seeking to acquire scooter licenses. 下營區公所利用停車場空間設置機車練習場  堤共居民模擬考照安全場地

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