2022年11月22日 星期二

Food for Them and Food for Us 他們的料理跟我們的料理


Every tourist spot has two kinds of restaurants: the restaurants local people visit and the restaurants for tourists.  This is just as true for Taiwan as it is for other places.  If you live somewhere like Taipei, Taichung or Kaohsiung you won't notice it as much, but in smaller cities and counties it's very obvious. 每個觀光地區都有兩種餐廳 , 一種是當地人喜歡的,另一種是觀光客喜歡去的 。 臺灣和其他國家沒有兩樣 。  你如果是居住在台北台中高雄那種大城市,你不會明顯的感受到區別 , 可是在比較小的城鎮裡,這個現象超級明顯。

In Taitung very few local people go to Blue Dragonfly, "Under the Banyan Tree" or Beinan Pig's Blood Soup.  Most local people don't frequent the Gaya Hotel or the Sheraton, or visit the newer, trendier places up the coast.  Sure, once upon a time many local people tried these restaurants, but after a while the novelty wore off, and they stopped going. 在台東,當地人比較不會去藍蜻蜓 、 榕樹下米苔目卑南豬血湯。  也不常去度假酒店或是桂田的餐廳 ,或是東海岸比較流行的餐廳 。  當然很多當地居民去過這些餐廳 , 可是那股新鮮勁過了之後, 就不再去了 。


It's the same in Fangliao, where I lived up until last June.  There are a few fancier restaurants in and around central Fangliao, and these restaurants serve tourists to the exclusion of almost everyone else.  There's the A-da Seafood Restaurant, Pi Coconut and Kasuga's Kitchen.  There are most of the places along the highway through Shuidiliao.  Fangliao is still a very rural place, and locals - if they eat out at all - prefer cheaper meals. 我住過的枋寮也一樣 。  枋寮市區有些較高級的餐廳的主要客人是觀光客,  阿達海鮮 、 椰門還有春日廚房 , 和 台1線水底寮那一段大部分的餐廳也是  。枋寮是個偏僻的地方 , 當地人會選擇比較便宜一點的餐廳 。

Since I moved to Hengchun I'm discovering the same thing.  I'll ask coworkers about certain local restaurants, and they'll greet me with blank stares.  "What's that, you say?  What restaurant?  Where?"  Quite often they'll have no idea that a certain restaurant even exists, and discussions of where they eat invariably veer toward tinier places, down alleys near the main road through town. 我搬到恆春之後也發現這個現象。  我問同事當地某些餐廳好不好吃的時候, 他們就會用奇怪的眼神看著我說 : "哪一家 ?  餐廳在哪裡 ?"  他們通常沒注意到那家餐廳的存在 , 跟他們討論地區餐廳的時候,他們都會提到一些小巷子中的小餐廳,靠近市區或中正路。


Me being the American that I am, I spent a couple months looking for good pizza and burger restaurants in the area.  This was done without any help from those I work with.  It's not that I'm blaming them; they simply didn't know.  Many times I'd visit some Western restaurant  outside of central Hengchun, and after returning to work the following Monday I'd tell them about where I'd been. 從美國來的我花了一、二個月尋找恆春的披薩跟漢堡餐廳 。 我的同事幫不了我, 因為他們根本不在乎那種餐廳 。  好幾個周末我去市區外的西式餐廳後, 在周一跟他們分享那家餐廳的經驗時, 他們每次這麼說 :

"What?" they'd say, "Where's that?" "什麼 ?"  "那家餐廳在哪裡 ?"

...but you know what?  I'm starting to share their lack of interest in the fancier restaurants.  A lot of the tourist-friendly places really are too expensive, and the food they offer really isn't that good.  The service is often terrible, and on weekends you have to make reservations far in advance. 可是你知道嗎 ?  我的想法越來越跟他們一樣, 很多友善觀光客的餐廳真是太貴了 , 料理也沒有那麼好吃 , 通常服務很差 , 周末時也要很早就先訂位 。


Don't get me wrong, I still love pizza and hamburgers, but I'm finding that they're often not worth the effort.  Drive down to Manzhou to get a slightly better pizza, or just order from Domino's?  Wonder if that burger restaurant near my elementary school has a free table, or just go to McDonald's?  More and more I find myself going for the cheaper, easier option, and I'm sure most of those living in this area feel the same way. 不要誤會, 我還是很喜歡披薩跟漢堡 ,  可是我開始覺得它們不值得我花費的心力。  開車到滿州吃好一點點的披薩,或是去達美樂就好 ?  擔心在我國小附近的漢堡餐廳找不到位子,或是去麥當勞 ?  我發覺自己越來越傾向選比較便宜、方便的餐廳 。 我相信大部分的當地居民也是這麼想吧 !

There must be some kind of "happy medium" between the restaurants for tourists and the restaurants for local people.  Sure, people like "fancy," but people also like consistency and affordability.  A fancy place with a view of the ocean will always make money, but I often wonder if the less fancy places aren't actually making more money over time.  When all of the costs of starting a business are calculated in, how much money is that fashionable homestay, restaurant or resort really making over a 10-20 year period, minus monies paid to workers, landlords and suppliers? 應該有餐廳是介於以上二種餐廳之間,並且是當地人喜愛的 。  每個人都喜歡漂亮高級餐廳 , 可是人們也喜歡固定時間會開門及划算的餐廳。  有海景的高級餐廳會賺錢 ,可是有可能以長時間來說, 一般的餐廳賺的錢更多 。 算一下開業成本,及員工薪水、租金......等, 那些新潮的民宿 、餐廳或是渡假村能在一、二十年中賺那麼多錢嗎 ?  


A steak dinner at Bossa Nova?  Sure, I'd enjoy that.  But if you're not that hungry maybe we could meet somewhere cheaper instead.  After all, how often is a 700 NT meal seven times better than a 100 NT meal?  And how many of us can afford to spend that much on dinner? 去巴沙諾瓦吃牛排嗎 ?  當然可以 , 可是也可以選比較便宜的餐廳。  話說回來 , 七百塊的晚餐跟一百塊的晚餐比較 , 七百塊的晚餐真的比一百塊的晚餐好七倍嗎 ?  有多少人負擔的起這麼貴的晚餐呢?

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