2025年10月26日 星期日

Fengbin Township, Hualien County 花蓮縣豐濱鄉


Fengbin is east (over the Coastal Mountain Range) of Ruisui.  It's also north of Taitung County.  It borders the Pacific Ocean. 豐濱位於瑞穗的東部 、 海岸山脈的另外一邊 , 也緊鄰太平洋

According to the last census, 4,413 people live in Fengbin.  It's the least populated township in Hualien County. 上次的人口統計顯示豐濱的人口數是4,413人, 是花蓮縣人口最少的鄉鎮。


Traveling north on Highway 11 from Taitung, one of the first things you'll see in Fengbin is this monument, which is part of a complex honoring unidentified road workers in the area. 從台東台11線豐濱的路上 , 進豐濱後會經過這個殉難慰靈之碑。


Further north is the Tropic of Cancer Monument, a popular stop for tour buses.  There's another Tropic of Cancer Monument in Ruisui, on the other side of the mountains. 再往北有北回歸線地標。  很多遊覽車會停靠這裡 , 山另外一邊的瑞穗也有北回歸線地標 。

This barbecue restaurant, across the highway from the monument, smelled delightful, but we'd had a big breakfast and it was too early for lunch. 這家烤肉店在北回歸線地標對面 , 烤肉味真是很香 , 只是我們剛吃完豐盛的早餐 ,而且也還沒到午餐時間。


Minutes away, in Jingpu Village, you'll find the mouth of the Xiouguluan River, which passes through the Coastal Mountain Range on its way to the Pacific. 幾分鐘之後就到了靜浦部落 ,  這個部落位在流經過海岸山脈秀姑巒溪的出海口 。


Further on is the Moon Cave, a place I've been passing by for years and finally visited recently.  There's a type of bat only found in this one cave, and for a fee you can take a boat into the cave to see them. 繼續走會到月洞 。 這些年來我無數次經過這個景點,直到這次才停車造訪。 月洞裡有一種只在這裡出現的蝙蝠, 你買了門票後導覽人員會帶你坐船進去看 。

An ecologically conscious tourist activity?  Eh... I'm not sure, but the tour guides do urge boat passengers to keep their voices down, and I don't think we bothered the bats too much. 生態友善的活動嗎 ?  我不是很確定 ,  但船上的導覽員會請遊客輕聲講話 ,我也覺得洞內的蝙蝠沒有受到活動影響 。

The part of the cave open to the public is very small, so don't expect an awe-inspiring encounter with nature.  The bats are cute though.  I would have taken pictures of them, but flash photography isn't allowed inside the cave. 遊客可以參觀的部分很小 , 所以不要期待受到大自然的洗禮 ,  但是蝙蝠很可愛。 洞內禁止使用閃光燈, 所以沒拍蝙蝠的照片。


The best known thing in Fengbin, if it can be said that anything in Fengbin is well known, is the Shitiping Scenic Area, which comes equipped with a campground.  It's a very beautiful place, and well worth visiting. 豐濱最有名的景點就是石梯坪遊憩風景區 。  這裡有露營區 ,  風景超好 , 值得去 。


... although I must say that I had a terrible experience camping here years ago.  It was extremely hot, everyone camping around us was too loud, and we barely slept that night. 我想說我多年前在這裡露營的經驗很糟糕。  那時候很熱 , 旁邊的遊客太吵 , 我們整個晚上沒辦法睡覺 。


Striations, dudes!  Striations! 這裡地質的線條紋路是最明顯的 。


That's Shiti Fishing Port in the background.  I've eaten at the restaurants in the port several times, but the last time was years ago. 背景裡有石梯漁港 。  漁港裡的餐廳我都吃過了 , 可是我上次去是幾年前了。


If it's a hot day I recommend bringing an umbrella.  There's almost no shade in Shitiping. 天氣很熱的時候要帶陽傘 , 石梯坪沒陰涼處躲太陽 。


South of the scenic area is the Yina Flying Fish Restaurant.  If you're looking for aboriginal food this is probably the place to go, though there's another, similar restaurant across the highway from it. 風景區南部有伊娜飛魚餐廳 ,  想吃原住民料理的遊客最好來這裡,  公路的另外一邊還有類似的餐廳 。

I thought the barbecue plate was good, but the other dishes we had were just OK. 我覺得他們的烤肉很好吃 , 其他的料理還好 。


Further up the coast is Dawan ("Big Bay") Viewpoint. 沿著海岸再往上有大灣觀景點


We saw a few people diving along the coast, both north and south of here.  There were also a few surfers at Jiqi Beach. 我們在這附近看到有人在浮潛 , 還有些人在磯崎衝浪 。


On our way north we tried to visit the Fengbin Skywalk, but found that it had been damaged during the last typhoon.  Only half of the skywalk was open, and instead of the normal entrance fee they were only charging 50 NT to park a car there. 我們繼續往北想參觀豐濱天空步道 , 後來發現因為颱風的關係 , 目前只開放一半。  他們不賣門票 , 只收50元的停車費 。

Instead we went to the Dashrbi Mountain Trail, which I think is new?  It offers some stunning views of the coastline. 我們沒去天空步道,而是去了大石鼻山步道。  這是新的景點吧 ? 步道的風景好美 。


Looking north, up the trail. 往北邊看向步道上方的風景 。


Looking east, into the Pacific. 往東邊看太平洋


And looking south, toward Shitiping. 往南邊看向石梯坪


On the other side of Jiqi Beach we rested for a bit at the Baqi Rest Stop, at the northern end of the township.  I can't say that it's worth visiting in its own right, but if you're tired and thirsty it can be a good place to stop. 我們經過磯崎沙灘之後在豐濱北部的芭崎休息區休息 。  這個休息區不大, 但在這裡停留喝個飲料不錯 。

Oh, and one more thing.  I meant to drive the road from Central Fengbin to Guangfu, on the other side of the mountains, but at the time of my visit this road was closed.  If you're in the area it's not a bad drive.  It's much less stressful that the drive between Fengbin and Ruisui. 對 , 還有一件事 : 我原本想走連接豐濱光復的那條路 ,後來發現那條路被封了 。  那條路的風景很好 , 路況也比豐濱通往瑞穗的那條路好很多 。

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