2026年5月16日 星期六

Central Dawu 大武鄉 (Taitung 台東)


Central Dawu (or the town of Dawu) is in Dawu Township, about an hour south of Taitung City.  It's on the Southern Cross-Island Highway, and is one of the last stops on the way to the tunnel which passes between Taitung and Pingtung counties. 大武鄉大武市區離台東市開車約一小時。  大武位在南迴公路上 , 靠近台東屏東中間的隧道 。

A lot of people drive through it, but few bother to stop.  It doesn't figure big in terms of Taitung's top tourist sites, though it does have some redeeming features. 很多人開車經過大武,卻不一定會在這裡停留。  這裡沒有台東最熱鬧的景點 , 但卻有著自己的特色 。


We parked in front of Dawu Junior High School, and walked from Highway 9 into town.  Across from Dawu Elementary there's a car graveyard where we found this jeep. 我們把車停在大武國中前, 從台9線走路進大武市區 。  這是大武國小對面的汽車墳場裡的吉普車 。


Further up the same road is a better view of the hills around town. 同一條路再進去一點的山景更好 。


There wasn't much going on at the Dawu Train Station.  I'm thinking most of the cars in the background were parked there by local people on their way to work.  There isn't much work in Dawu, but it's close enough to both the west coast and Taitung City for a commute like that to be feasible. 大武車站附近很安靜 ,  留在停車場的車應該是大武居民為了通勤停放在那裏的 。  大武的工作機會少 , 從這裡坐火車去台東市或西部上下班應該可以 。


This wood was probably washed onto local beaches by typhoons.  Dawu has been on the wrong end of many typhoons, and often sets records for high temperatures. 這堆木頭大概是被之前的颱風沖到附近沙灘的 ,  有時候颱風對大武造成很大的影響, 大武也常有創紀錄的高溫。


If it's not too hot a walk along the Dawu River is nice.  In July or August I'd probably avoid this place. 天氣比較涼快的時候在大武溪散步不錯 , 但是七、八月的時候我不會去 。


A look back at the north half of Dawu from the river trail.  Up in those hills/mountains is the village of Xinhua.  I highly recommend a visit to Xinhua if you're driving a reliable car or scooter. 從大武溪岸的河堤便道看北大武村 。  新化部落在山丘上 ,  新化部落很有趣 , 但是去之前一定要先確認機車或汽車的狀況良好才安全 。

The road to Xinhua, by the way, loops all the way back to Tuban and Daxi to the north.  It's a beautiful drive, but not for the faint of heart. 順帶一提, 往新化的路繞了一個大圈 , 途中會經過北邊的土坂大溪 ,  風景很美 , 可是路況不佳 。


This is the Dawu River.  Most of the year it's very calm, though I've seen it terrifyingly full after typhoons. 這是大武溪 ,大部分的時間它溪床上的水不高,  但颱風經過的時候,水位會高到嚇人 。

It's not easy to get to, but if you travel up this river valley you'll find the eastern end of the Jinshuiying Historic Trail, which stretches between Pingtung and Taitung.  I walked that trail with several elementary school students years ago, and the trip took around six hours.  Some of the scenery near the middle of the trail is stunning. 這裡不好找 , 如果你沿著這個溪谷往上,你會來到連接東和台東浸水營古道的東端 。  我幾年前跟一群國小生走過這個古道,我們走了六個小時 ,  古道上沿途看到的風景美不勝收。


Across the Dawu Bridge lies this coffee shop/restaurant.  It's new.  The latte I had here was very good, though I didn't try the food.  Be warned: it's not cheap. 大武橋上的這家咖啡館 ( 餐廳 )是新的 ,  他們的拿鐵好喝 , 但我沒吃過他們的料理 。  注意 : 這家不便宜 。


The southern half of Dawu, separated from the northern half by the Dawu River, is much quieter.  To the left is the Dawu Homestay, which I believe is also new. 大武溪大武市區隔成兩半 , 南邊的一半更是寧靜 。  左邊比較新的建築是大武民宿

Dawu has its own development association, and they're working hard to create more tourist spots in the area. 大武有自己的發展協會,他們很努力地推薦新的景點和發掘觀光亮點。


The temple to the left is in the center of town.  The buses into and out of Dawu make a surprising number of stops, visiting many of the mountain villages between Taitung City and Shangwu, further south. 左邊的廟宇在大武市區中心,  經過大武的公車會停靠很多地方, 這些停靠站是台東市尚武中間的村落。


This is just off Highway 9.  Much of the coastline around Dawu is undeveloped.  I hope it stays that way. 在台9線旁邊 。  大武的海岸大部分沒有當地人的商業行為 , 我希望它一直保持這個樣子就好 。


Tourists sometimes stop at the Dawu Seashore Park ("Dawu Coast Park"), north of the fire station.  It's oppressively hot here in the summer (zero shade), but in the fall and spring it's not bad. 遊客會停靠大武消防局北邊的海濱公園 ,  但是這裡夏天的時候超熱 , 春天和秋天的時候才比較涼一點。


This lego bridge in front of the Seashore Park.  It's the most recognizable thing in town.  There's a rainbow building across from it which predates the bridge's paint job. 樂高橋位於海濱公園前面 , 是容易被記住的景點 。  橋對面還有彩虹的建築 , 以前那座建築是大武最有名的景點 。

I should add that the Dawu Seaview Trail lies on the ridge in the background.  I skipped that trail this time, but there are pictures of it in The New Da Niao Bridge to "Downtown" Dawu 新大鳥橋到大武市區 entry.  The trail is a short and the scenery isn't particularly good. 補充一下, 大武觀海步道在背景的山嶺上 。  我這一次沒有走步道 , 可是新大鳥橋到大武市區的文章裡有照片 ,  步道很短 , 風景沒有特別好 。


The view south from the lego bridge.  To the right is the rainbow building mentioned above, and to the left, across the road, is the fire station. 在樂高橋上往南邊看的風景 , 前面是提到的彩虹建築 , 在左邊的是消防局 。


We had lunch at the Jiajiajiou Book House.  This place offers indigenous-Taiwanese fusion cuisine.  Their menu is as exotic as you're likely to find in Dawu.  The proprietors are very hospitable, and they do a lot for their local community. 我們在家家酒書房吃午餐 , 他們的料理是原住民 - 台式的 , 這應該是大武最特別的菜單。  老闆很親切 , 也努力的為社區做好的事。

This place doubles as an after school center for local students.  The first and second floors are full of books.  They also run a store on Dawu Street which sells locally made goods. 這個地方也是社區的課後學習中心 , 一 、 二樓都充滿書本 ,  他們在大武街上也開了一家地區特產店 。


Lastly there's this aborted attempt at a temple, which has looked like this for as long as I can remember.  Not sure why anyone thought this was a good spot for a temple, but at least it's weird? 最後有這間還沒完工的廟宇 , 它已經20多年來都沒變吧 !  在這場地蓋廟不是很奇怪嗎 ?

Related Entries 相關的文章:

沒有留言:

張貼留言