2024年4月8日 星期一

"Good" and "Bad" Places in South Taiwan


Most people define "south Taiwan" as Jiayi, Tainan, Kaohsiung and Pingtung.  Jiayi has always felt more like "central Taiwan" to me, but I suppose that grouping it in with Tainan, Kaohsiung and Pingtung makes a certain kind of sense.

"Good" and "bad," by the way, are strictly relative terms.  I'm not saying that my version of "good" or "worth going to" should be your version of "good" or "worth going to."  Ditto for "bad" or "not worth going to."  We all have our individual stuff that we like individually, and if you like a place, fine, I'm not trying to rain on your parade.

What follows is a list of places in south Taiwan that I think are worth visiting, and after that list is another list of places that I don't think are worth visiting, or which are, at best, overrated.  And if it makes any difference to you, I've lived on this island for over 23 years, I've been to most of these places several times, and yes, I do live in south Taiwan at the time of writing.

So let's get to it, shall we?

Some "Good" Places



Why I Like It: I dunno, it's just weird.  I can't think of anything that this place has that other fishing ports don't (aside from weird statues), but for whatever reason I like it there.  I haven't been back in a while, but I doubt it's changed much.

How Easy Is It To Get To?: Not easy.  I suppose you could take a bus from Jiayi City, but it would be much easier to get there by car.



Why I Like It: It's one of the better museums in Taiwan, and there a lot of great exhibits featuring important chapters in the island's history.  If you're not into reading history books, and you want a quick overview of what's been going on in Taiwan during the last few hundred years, this is the place to go.

How Easy Is It To Get To?: Most places outside downtown Tainan aren't that easy to get to.  Lacking a car or scooter you'll need to take a taxi.  It's in Annan District, north of Anping.



Why I Like It: It does a good job of combining Taiwan's aboriginal heritage with local geography and prehistory.  Kids also love this place, so if you have small kids bring them along, too.

How Easy Is It To Get To?: It's near the mountains.  You'll need a car to get there.  It's in a relatively scenic area, and having your own wheels will make your visit better.



Why I Like It: Who doesn't like a boat ride through mangrove trees?  A lot of people, probably.  But I enjoy this kind of thing, and a trip through the mangroves combined with a beer and a dinner of barbecued oysters sounds like a pretty good day to me.  There's a strange little island on the other side of the bay, and it's a nice place to sit and admire the view.

How Easy Is It To Get To?: You'll need a car, or at least a scooter from downtown Tainan.  Maybe there's a bus, but I wouldn't recommend it.


5. Qishan 旗山 (Kaohsiung)

Why I Like It: My feelings about this area are similar to those I have for Budai Fishing Port.  It's just an odd little place on the way to nowhere special.  I will say, however, that Gushan Park, just west of central Qishan, is an interesting walk into local history.  There's an old shinto shrine at the top of the hill/mountain inside the park, and there are great views of the surrounding landscape from the shrine.

How Easy Is It To Get To?: You'd need to take a bus to Qishan



Why I Like It: Another great view if you time it right.  I wouldn't go in the middle of the day or when the smog is thick, but early in the morning or after 5 p.m. are good times to go.  You could easily combine a visit to the Eye of Gangshan with a trip to central Gangshan, an area with some overlooked restaurants.

How Easy Is It To Get To?: It's a haul.  Even driving there from Ciaotou District took me a while.  It's on the other side of an industrial area from central Gangshan, not far from the Agongdian Reservoir.



Why I Like It: It's the lively part of Kaohsiung.  There's a lot of food, art, music and fun in both the Pier 1 Arts Center and the surrounding district.  A lot of my favorite bars and restaurants are in this area.

How Easy Is It To Get To?: Pretty easy.  The Yancheng MRT stop is up the street, and the Light Rail goes right through it.


8. Highway 24 from Sandimen 三地門 to Wutai 霧台 (Pingtung)

Why I Like It: This isn't so much a place as a series of places.  From Sandimen Village (at the bottom of the hill) you can take a tour of several Paiwan and Rukai villages, sampling local foods, admiring local art and taking in some very scenic views along the way.  It can feel like visiting another country.

How Easy Is It To Get To?: Getting there is tough, but I think you'll find it worth the effort, especially if you decide to spend the night in Wutai.  If you're taking the bus, you'll want to first go to Pingtung City, take a bus from there to the Shuimen Transfer Station, and from Shuimen take a bus that goes to Wutai.

I should add that taking the bus up to Wutai only seems less convenient.  Speaking as someone who's driven a car up that road a couple times, the bus is a lot less stressful.



Why I Like It: It's a genuinely interesting, genuinely educational institution.  Oh, and if you have small kids they'll love playing in the whale pools between the ticketing area and the main building.

If you're planning on visiting often buy a membership.  It's much cheaper than paying the entrance fee every time.  It's also very easy to renew.

How Easy Is It To Get To?: Unfortunately (?) it's on the other side of Checheng Township, on the coast.  If you're taking the Kenting Express you'll want to get off at the aquarium stop (they'll announce it), and take another bus west to the aquarium.



Why I Like It: It can be a nice place to sit, drink a beer and stare at the ocean if you're not visiting on a holiday weekend.  Is it paradise?  Nope, but if you accept it for what it is (a rapidly aging holiday destination), it's good enough.  Sure, the jet skis and ATVs are loud, and the view of the nuclear plant diminishes Nanwan's scenic value, but hey, it's Taiwan and this is what we've got.

How Easy Is It To Get To?: As with any spot in Pingtung south of Fangliao, you'll need to either drive yourself there or catch a bus.  The good news is that the Kenting Express leaves from (Xin) Zuoying in Kaohsiung several times a day, so if you're getting off the HSR from parts north it's relatively easy to get to.

Some "Bad" Places



Why I Don't Like It: There's just not much there.  Sure, you could combine it with a visit to Budai Fishing Port, but other than that there's not much in this area.  It's a long way to go for a building that is, when all is said and done, mostly empty.

How Easy Is It To Get To?: Like Budai Fishing Port it's also located in a very out of the way part of Jiayi.



Why I Don't Like It: The park around it is kind of nice around sunset, but the building and the collections feel like what they are: the things left behind by a very rich man.  I'll admit that the weapons room is interesting, but at 200 NT a person I don't think there's enough in this museum to justify a trip in that direction.

How Easy Is It To Get To?: It's within walking distance of Bao-an Train Station, but be warned that there's not much else around there.


3. The Eminent Luggage Museum 萬國通路創意觀光工廠 (Tainan)

Why I Don't Like It: This one's kinda obvious, and I suppose I can only blame myself for going.  Like many such "museums,' it's really just an excuse to sell things.  Even so, I'm still mad that they had the audacity to charge me parking fee into the bargain.

How Easy Is It To Get To?: You could probably walk there from the Tainan HSR stop... but why would you?



Why I Don't Like It: Honestly, just go to Dream Mall in Kaohiung, or if that's too far drive into downtown Tainan and visit Shin Kong Mitsukoshi.  There's really not much to buy in the Mitsui Outlet Park, and the food selection is terrible.

How Easy Is It To Get To?: Easy.  It's right next to the Tainan HSR station.



Why I Don't Like It: It's hot and overpriced.  Also, many of the rides there look like they're about to fall apart at any moment, especially the ferris wheel.  

I can only assume that the outlet mall that used to be there is still running.  If so, I'm sure that outlet is now an even further reduced version of what it was when Eda first opened.

How Easy Is It To Get To?: If you don't have your own transportation you'll have to take a bus.  It's in the hills east of downtown Kaohsiung.



Why I Don't Like It: It's hot in the summer, hard to get to, and not that interesting.  I tend to feel sorry for the animals that live there.  The Taipei Zoo is miles better.  

In my opinion they should just give up on this location and build a better, more modern zoo elsewhere.

How Easy Is It To Get To?: There are bus and Light Rail stops down the hill, but you'll still have to walk up to the zoo, in Kaohsiung, on what is probably a hot day, with little shade available.


7. Yangnu Lake 養女湖 (Kaohsiung)

Why I Don't Like It: This is definitely the least famous place discussed here.  It's included in some of the tourist literature/websites for Kaohsiung, and several signs in Yanchao District direct you to it.  It's a sad clearing in the dry, dry hills where a "lake" sometimes is but usually isn't.  I drove my car up to this place -- not an easy feat -- and immediately regretted doing so.

Oh, and the "lake" changes location!  When I visited last semester there were signs for "Old Yangnu Lake" and "New Yangnu Lake."  "Old Yangnu Lake," the site of a mud volcano, just up and disappeared one day.

How Easy Is It To Get To?: NOT easy.  At all.  East of Gangshan District a bunch of narrow, dusty roads lead up into the mountains, and one of those roads (by the grace of God!) leads to Yangnu Lake.


8. Dapeng Bay 大鵬灣 (Pingtung)

Why I Don't Like It: Who in their right mind declared this a National Scenic Area?  There's not much scenery to be found around Dapeng Bay, and there's very little for tourists to do there.  There was a time when this place looked like it was going to develop into something, but that time seems to be long gone now.

I will say, however, that I used to enjoy doing loops around Dapeng Bay on my bike.  When I lived in Fangliao I often cycled over to it.

How Easy Is It To Get To?: You could walk there from the Linbian Train Station, but that would be a long, hot walk.


9. Xiaoliuqiu 小琉球 (Pingtung)

Why I Don't Like It: OK, OK, I get it: sea turtles.  But you can see sea turtles in many other places, and what about the fact that Xiaoliuqiu is really just a tiny rock off the coast of Pingtung?  And what about the fact that there's not much to eat there?  And what about the crowds at the ferry terminal?  And how old are those ferries, anyway?

How Easy Is It To Get To?: Not very easy.  You'll need to get to Donggang (a place I like much better) and from there push your way through the ferry terminal onto one of the boats.  The closest train station is Linbian or Zhenan, and both of those train stations are on the other side of Dapeng Bay from the ferry.



Why I Don't Like It: For one thing I've gotten ill from two different stalls there.  For another thing there isn't much of a selection when it comes to food.  The crowds have been getting smaller in recent years, and both the less-than-fresh food and lack of selection may be reflections of this fact. 

Oh, and there's also the trash that every night market generates.  Kenting Night Market is right in the middle of a national park, and the local government doesn't have the best track record when it comes to protecting the environment.  Seeing drink cups and other litter in local streams always make me sad.

How Easy Is It To Get To?: Like Nanwan it can be reached via the Kenting Express, which stops at Kaohsiung (Zuoying) HSR Station, Fangliao, the Checheng Farmer's Association and the Hengchun Transfer Station.

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2024年4月1日 星期一

Tainan in the News 台南的新聞 (North 北) 4


There are 37 Districts in Tainan City.  These districts are divided into North Tainan and South Tainan, or those "north of the [Dzengwen] river" and those "south of the [Dzengwen] river."  The districts of North Tainan are further grouped into the Xinying Area, the Beimen Area and the Dzengwen Area.  The districts of South Tainan are further grouped into the Fucheng Area, the Xinfeng Area and the Xinhua Area. 台南市分為37個區 , 這37個地區分成曾文溪北部的北台南跟曾文溪南部的南台南 。 北台南又分為新營地區 、北門地區跟曾文地區 ; 南台南又分為府城地區 、 新豐地區跟新化地區 。



1a. DPP Legislator Lin Jun-xian will convene a parent-child event in Xinying at the end of the month.  The election is still two years away, but Legislator Lin will probably represent the DPP in this election as their candidate for Tainan City Mayor. 備戰2026台南市長  林俊憲本周六大新營區辦親子活動



2a. A roadside stall in Yanshui increased the price of its pig's head rice from 10 to 15 NT.  This was a first for the stall, which had kept its prices stable for 47 years up to that point.  The owner explained that the rising cost of electricity was a factor in this decision. 台南  10元豬頭飯47年漲5元  客喊佛心



3a. Residents of Liouying are expressing concern over a proposed expansion of the Liouying Science and Technology Park.  Many complain that the science and technology park is a source of air pollution, and despite a third development phase being subject to environmental review they complain of inadequate oversight.  A plan to build an incinerator in the area was recently defeated, and large livestock operations in Liouying are only adding to local worries over the environment. 台南柳科三期  地方反彈聲浪大



4a. Houbi's cantaloupe season officially began on the 17th of last month.  A press conference was held to mark the occasion. 2024後壁洋香瓜好時節  3/17熱鬧登場



5a. The Salvation Army donated 100 pairs of athletic shoes to elementary school students in Baihe and surrounding areas. 童心 "鞋" 力  送100雙球鞋給台南5所偏鄉小校學童 (1)

5b. A man in Baihe reported his elderly mother missing, only to later find out that she had gone to work and forgotten to inform him. 母親走失慌張報警  白河警助尋回

5c, Next month is lotus season in Baihe.  As a way of marking the occasion a Mother's Day banquet will be held this month. 台南蓮花節5月登場  母親節推千人宴



6a. A facility manufacturing a type of methamphetamine was raided by police.  This facility was disguised as a dormitory.  Several were arrested at the scene, and over 200 kg of finished meth, partially finished meth and raw materials were seized.  The type of meth produced in that facility, known as "Meow Meow," is becoming increasingly popular. 台南市刑大破獲東山區  "喵喵" 製毒工廠  查獲200公斤  逮8人送辦



7a. A fire broke out in a plastic storage yard, giving off smoke that could be seen (and smelled) several kilometers away.  The local branch of the Environmental Protection Bureau advised residents to keep their doors and windows closed until the smoke cleared. 台南塑料堆置場大火 !  駭人黑煙猛竄天際  居民10公里外仍聞異味

7b. Chickens raised in a Jiali poultry operation were diagnosed with H5N1 avian influenza.  Over 32,000 chickens were culled as a result. 台南佳里區養雞場染禽流感  撲殺3萬多隻土雞



8a. The Hollyhock Flower Cultural Festival was held on the 23rd, and there was a "Hollyhock Flower Art Party" on the 30th.  Flowers are a big crop in Shuejia. 2024學甲蜀葵花文化節開跑  引進全新品種遊客驚艷

8b. A multi-purpose sports facility should be completed in Shuejia next year.  Volleyball tournaments are often held in the area, and present facilities aren't meeting demand. 南市學甲設多功能體育館有譜  斥資1.8億元最快明年底完工



9a. A corpse was found floating in the water in the Shuangchun Coastal Recreation Area.  It seems to be a case of suicide given both a suicide note and footage of the deceased tying his own hands and feet together prior to "falling" into the water, though the incident is still under investigation. 台南雙春北門堤防大圳溝驚見浮屍  打撈追查身分中



10a. Farmers in Jiangjun are growing a new type of asparagus, and this local crop is now available through the Jiangjun District Farmer's Association.  It should be available from March to June. 台南將軍綠蘆筍搶鮮上市熱銷

10b. A carrot picking activity was held in Lingziliao Village, not far from a road known for its flowering kapok trees. 3月天紅色浪漫去  2024將軍區紅蘿蔔木棉爭鮮搶豔同樂會



11a. Several government and charity organizations donated items to elderly disadvantaged residents of Qigu. 公益團體 "春暖盡孝"  名檢劉承武與台南七股 108位弱勢老人同樂



12a. The Douglas trees ("tropical cherry trees") are blooming in Xigang. They do so for about one and a half months. 台南西港花旗木粉嫩盛開

12b. Both Jinsha Elementary School in Xigang and Yuhu Elementary School in nearby Beimen will close as early as next school year.  A declining birthrate in these areas is behind the closures. 台南西港金砂分校 , 北門玉湖分校  最快113學年停辦



13a. The price of chicken has fallen, and the Tainan City Chicken Breeding Association recently held a promotional event in Madou to make the public more aware of this important local product. "雞" 會難得 !  台南市養雞協會3/30, 31麻豆雞肉促銷



14a. An old three-winged house built around a courtyard caught fire.  Firefighters had a difficult time extinguishing the blaze, which started in the kitchen. 台南官田三合院暗夜傳火警  廚房狂竄烈焰 ... 消防人員急搶救



15a. The second and third floors of the public market in Lioujia will open to bids from business owners wishing to conduct business there. 台南市六甲區公有零售市場第2, 3樓房地 ...

15b. There was a running activity for charity which began in front of Lioujia Elementary on March 24. 台南市救國團慶祝青年節  辦理早安晨跑超過千人響應



16a. During the upcoming Children's Day holiday kids under 12 can enter the Tsou Ma Lai Farm for free. 4/4 ~ 7 走馬瀨童遊趣  12歲以下免費入場 (2)



17a. A tree planting event was held in the Xiaying Sports Park.  Participants could exchange two receipts for jasmine tree saplings.  These saplings were provided by the Huashan Foundation. 種樹兼做公益 !  台南下營捐發票換1株樹苗  茉莉限量200株

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1. Hopefully there was an actual need for these shoes.  I've attended school events in which charity organizations distributed things that nobody needed or wanted.  Many of these organizations are based in Taipei, and often decide that kids in a certain area are "in need" without bothering to investigate what they might be in need of.

2. It should be free for everyone, all the time.  The people operating that place don't seem to realize that the days of charging visitors to enter a recreational farm are long gone.  It's old, it's out of the way, and it's not especially scenic.

2024年3月25日 星期一

Linyuan District, Kaohsiung City 高雄市林園區


Linyuan District is the southernmost district in Kaohsiung City.  It's across the Gaoping (Kaoping) River from Xinyuan Township in Pingtung. 林園區高雄市最南端的地區 。  它位於屏東縣新園區旁的高屏溪對岸 。

Linyuan has a long and surprising history.  It was originally called "Linbian," a reference to the forested Fengshan Hills, but the Japanese later changed the district's name to "Linyuan" to avoid confusion with Linbian in nearby Pingtung County. 林園有悠久的歷史 。  它的原名是 "林邊", 源自附近的鳳山丘陵 , 但日治時期為避免與屏東縣林邊混淆而將它改為林園

According to the last census, 68.132 people live in Linyuan. 上次的人口統計表示 ,林園的人口是68,132人 。


The biggest attraction in Linyuan is Qingshuiyan, a (very) old temple complex at the foot of the Fengshan Hills.  If you like "weird" Qingshuiyan is definitely worth going to.  Its name comes from a local spring. 林園最受歡迎的景點是鳳山丘陵下的清水巖風景區 。 喜歡奇特景點的讀者應該會很喜愛這個地方 ,  它的名稱來自於附近的活水源。


...but as you can tell from the above picture, it's very dry there now.  Is the spring still there, somewhere?  Is it so dry because of a recent lack of rain? 從上面照片可以看出來那邊最近很乾 。  現在這裡還有湧泉嗎 ?  那麼乾是因為這裡很久沒下雨嗎 ?


Behind the main temple is a system of trails.  This is the view from the top of the ridge, looking south. 廟宇後方有些步道 。  這是從丘陵上往南邊看到的風景 。


It reminded me a little of Guanshan in Hengchun Municipality.  Coral hillsides, caves and temple architecture. 這裡珊瑚礁的丘陵 和山洞,跟傳統廟宇的建築方式讓我聯想到恆春鎮關山 。  


Aside from the spooky buildings, many local people come here for the karaoke.  We passed several groups camped out next to the trails, each with their own karaoke machine. 除了這恐怖建築,還有很多人來這裡唱卡拉OK 。  我們在這裡散步的時候經過幾個歌唱據點 , 他們各有自己的卡拉OK設備 。


It's not a bad place for a short walk and a rest within the trees.  I'd avoid it when the weather's hot though. 在這裡逛一逛後在樹下休息不錯 ,  但太陽大的時候不適合 。


East of Qingshuiyan, on the Gaoping River, there's not much to see.  Kaohsiung's Petroleum Industrial Zone and the Linyuan Industrial Zone block this area off from most traffic.  That's Xinyuan on the other side of the river. 在清水巖東部 , 高屏溪岸沒有什麼風景 。  石化工業區林園工業區將這裡與大部分的交通隔了開來, 這裡交通不方便 。  溪口另外一邊是新園


Along the Linyuan side of the river you'll find the Mangrove Ecological Park.  If you're into birds it might be a good place to go, but otherwise it's not worth visiting. 林園的溪岸有一部分是紅樹林生態園區 。  喜歡賞鳥的人會喜歡這裡, 但對鳥沒興趣的可以不用去了。


To the south you'll find Shanwei Fishing Port and Kaohsiung's Southernmost Tree.  There's a small park near the port, but the scenery doesn't exactly dazzle the eyes. 南邊有汕尾漁港市境之南樹 。  漁港附近有小公園,可是風景沒那麼好看 。


The village north of the beach felt like a ghost town.  It was SO QUIET there. 漁港北部的村子沒有村民出現 , 超安靜!


To the west is Zhongyun Port.  There's not much for tourists there now, but there are signs that the local government is slowly developing the area. 西邊有中芸漁港 。  這裡目前沒有適合觀光客的景點 ,可是從它的告示牌看, 當地公所正慢慢建設中 。


No, the air in Linyuan isn't awesome.  It often has the worst air quality in Kaohsiung.  I will say, however, that the factories in this area look very cool at night.  Driving into or out of Linyuan after dark always makes me think of Blade Runner. 林園的空氣品質不是很好 , 它的空氣品質通常是高雄最差的 。  可是夜裡工廠的燈看起來很酷 ,  晚上在林園開車都讓我想起 "銀翼殺手" 那部影片 。


I love fishing ports, and Kaohsiung has a lot of them. 我非常喜歡漁港!  高雄有很多漁港 。


Still further west is the Ocean Wetland Park, a surprisingly popular destination.  There's a type of jellyfish in this park that can only be found locally. 西邊的海洋濕地公園比較熱鬧 ,  這裡有一種你只能在這裡看到的水母。


NOT popular is the Fengbitou Archaeological Site, a local archaeological site closer to Xiaogang.  There's an interpretive center nearby, and a road/trail leading to some of the sites in the nearby hills.  The artifacts discovered here date back thousands of years. 靠近小港區鳳鼻頭文化遺址沒有那麼受歡迎 ,  它除了有展覽館外,旁邊的丘陵上還有經過遺址的步道。  在這裡發現了幾千年前的人工製品。


On one of the canals passing through the Petroleum Industrial Zone.  Linyuan isn't an ecological paradise, but it's worth exploring nonetheless. 經過林園石化工業區的河流 。  林園雖然不是生態天堂,可是有些景點還是值得去 。

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