2020年11月26日 星期四

琉球漁樂線 Fishy Things to Do on Xiaoliuqiu


The Chinese below was taken from "A New Appreciation of Fishing" 漁樂新視界.  The Chinese was written by 光啟社 and the English was written/translated by me.  There will be four of these entries, covering the ports in Pingtung County.


琉球漁樂線
Fishy Things to Do on Xiaoliuqiu (1)

小琉球, 位於高屏溪口的西南方, 距離屏東縣東港鎮約14公里, 屬於一個珍貴的珊瑚礁島嶼, 由於不受東北幾集季風的影響, 因此一年四季的氣候都相當溫暖宜人. Xiaoliuqiu is located to the southeast of where the Kaoping River meets the sea.  It's 14 km from Donggang Municipality, in Pingtung County.  This beautiful coral island lies beyond the reach of the northeastern monsoon winds, and the climate is very warm and pleasant year-round.

這裡的海水清澈見底, 並發展出各項精采的親海旅程, 你可以到潮間帶認識多樣精采的動植物種, 或是搭乘半潛艇觀光船, 從水面上到水面下, 欣賞不同的海底世界, 小琉球的美麗值得大家前來探掘它迷人的魔力. The ocean here is crystal clear, and there are many ways in which to explore it.  You can delve into the intertidal zone and learn about many species of animals and plants, or you can board a glass-bottomed boat and enjoy the underwater world beneath you.  The beauty of Xiaoliuqiu entices everyone to come and enjoy it.


How to go?

到小琉球需至東港搭乘船班, 每班船的航行時間約30分鐘就可以到達, 由於有分公營和民營兩種, 開始時間有所不同, 因此, 詳細的船班資訊可以到 (小琉球觀光旅遊資訊網) 查詢. To get to Xiaoliuqiu you need to take a ferry from Donggang.  The ferry trip takes about 30 minutes.  Because there are both public and private ferries the departure time varies, and for exact departure times you should consult the Xiaoliuqui Tourism Information Network. (2)

精彩樂活
Memories in the Making


白沙觀光港 Bai Sha Sightseeing Port

白沙觀光港為遊客進出之主要港口, 緊鄰海岸線優美的中澳沙灘, 深具遊憩價值, 港區內還提供海上環島船以及海底半潛艇, 給遊客多樣化的環島新選擇. Bai Sha Sightseeing Port is the main point of entry for tourists.  It's close to the beautiful coastline and is indispensable to visitors.  At the port you can embark on tours around the island, and ride on glass-bottomed boats.  [This port] gives tourists new ways to experience Xiaoliuqiu. (3)


三鬼傳奇 The Legend of the "Three Ghosts"

三鬼不是鬼, 而是小琉球最具特色的指標喔!  包括當地時常捕獲的魚種 "鬼頭刀", 生長在珊瑚礁細砂間俗稱 "土鬼" 的雲雀殼菜蛤, 以及位於小琉球西南處的 "烏鬼洞", 合稱三鬼傳奇是新鮮海產與歷史文化結合的在地特色! The "three ghosts" are not really ghosts, but rather three things always associated with Xiaoliuqiu.  These three things are the mahi-mahi which are often caught there, a type of mussel known as the "dirt ghost," which grows in fine grained sand near coral reefs, and Wu Guei Cave, which is located on the southwest coast of the island.  Together these three "ghosts" combine seafood, history and culture to give the island its unique character! (4)


蛤板灣 Ha Ban Bay

小琉球當地居民又稱這裡為 "威尼斯沙灘".  屬於堆積地形的貝殼砂沙灘, 白淨的沙灘, 碧藍的海水, 非常適合浮潛, 戲水及潮間帶活動, 遊客也可在此近距離欣賞各式美麗貝殼和浪漫星砂. People on Xiaoliuqiu call this place "Venice Beach."  This beach is shaped like a clam shell, has white sand, and the turquoise waters off the beach are great for snorkeling, swimming and other aquatic activities.  Tourists can also enjoy the shells and sparkling sand there. (7)


美人洞風景區 The Beauty's Cave Scenic Area

美人洞位於小琉球西北角, 從這裡的制高點望海一看, 還可以發現沙瑪基外海的箱網養殖, 美景不在話下, 風景區內計有十三景, 各有千秋, 獨具天然風趣, 值得遊客細細玩賞.  The Beauty's Cave is located at the northwest corner of Xiaoliuqiu.  If you look down at the sea from the highest point there, you can see the nets used to raise fish off the coast.  The scenery is beautiful beyond words, and this scenic area has 13 scenic spots in total.  Each scenic spot has its own merits and natural beauty.  It's a place worth investigating in detail.


杉福生態廊道 Shan Fu Ecological Corridor

杉福生態廊道位於小琉球西岸的杉福漁港北側, 由廢棄的軍事基地改建而成, 漫步於此就能欣賞小琉球當地魚類的石雕圖像及軍事砲台遺跡.  走出步道, 迎面而來的是美麗的山海景色, 自然景觀美不勝收. The Shan Fu Ecological Corridor is located near the north side of Shan Fu Fishing Port, on the west coast of the island.  It was converted from an abandoned military base, and those strolling through this area can enjoy the stone fish carvings and the old gun emplacements [preserved there].  A walk along the trail reveals a beautiful view of both the mountains and the sea, and the wonder of the natural setting might just leave you speechless.


厚石群礁 The Hou Shr Reefs

這裡的沿岸是綿延不絕的珊瑚裙礁, 在裙礁內則是大片平坦的海蝕平台, 怪石嶙峋, 與其他景點的景觀截然不同.  在這裡你可以發現許多有趣的巨石, 如觀音岩, 爬山虎岩, 山豬岩, 紅番岩, 老鷹岩等, 考驗你的眼力, 看看可以找到幾顆?  The coastline here is an endless expanse of coral reefs.  Within the reefs are large platforms from which to view the eroding coastline.  This strange, rocky place offers an experience very different from other scenic spots.  In this place you can discover many interesting giant rocks, including Kuanyin Rock, Japanese Ivy Rock, Boar Rock, Red "Fan" Rock, Eagle Rock and many others.  Test your eyes and see how many strange rocks you can find! (8)


蜂巢蝦 Bee's Nest Shrimp

人氣強強滾的小琉球必點美食就是這一道, 裹粉酥炸的去殼蝦條, 軟嫩適中, 怡到好處, 上面類似蜂巢狀的東西則是利用鴨蛋加麵粉的蛋液下去炸的, 來回甩蛋液的技術需要功夫才可以完成, 口感與層次在這道菜當中可以完全展現出來. This is the delicacy that EVERYONE visiting Xiaoliuqiu should try.  The shrimp are shelled, coated with batter, and fried until they are very tender and delicious.  The honeycomb-like coating around them is made by frying duck egg yolk with flour.  The technique of tossing the duck egg yolk back and forth takes time to perfect, but it contributes a lot to the both the taste and layering of this dish. (5)


魷魚小封肉 Squid and Pork

魷魚小封肉又叫 "魷香紅麴東坡肉", 是一道非常道地的鄉土料理, 可是小琉球人, 家家戶戶都會做的一道菜, 非常下飯的古早味, 這道菜最特別的是利用厚切的魷魚塊下去滷製, 吃起來口口滿足, 自然的Q嫩口感, 和著三層肉油脂一起化開, 是所有遊客吃過後, 相當讚賞的一道菜色.  This squid and pork dish is also called "savory squid and red yeast Dong Po Pork."  It is a very "local" dish, that every family on Xiaoliuqiu cooks and enjoys.  It has a very traditional flavor, and the most unique thing about it is the thick cuts of squid, marinated in a [special] sauce.  It has an exceptionally satisfying taste, is very tender, and is cooked in three layers of [pork] fat.  It's a dish that all tourists come to appreciate. (6)

Related Entries 相關的文章:


1. "Xiaoliuqiu" or "Lamay Island?"  Honestly I'd prefer "Lamay Island," "Little Ryukyu" or even "Shiao Liou Chiou" to the unpronounceable "Xiaoliuqiu," which non-Chinese speakers are probably going to get wrong anyway.  BUT "Xiaoliuqiu" (sometimes abbreviated as "XLQ") seems to be winning the Chinese-English Spelling War, and far be it from me to force my preferred spellings on others. 

2. The ferry schedule's in the left sidebar of this site.  Public and private ferries leave every half hour between 7 am and 6 pm.  On all but the foggiest days you can see the island from the ferry terminal.

3. After you arrive expect to be besieged by people trying to rent you a scooter.

4. I'm translating 鬼 (guei) as "ghost" here, though in many contexts I feel "devil" is more appropriate.  "Devil" does a better job of describing the naughty/mischievous aspect of these spirits.  The mahi-mahi 鬼頭刀, "dirt ghost" and cave described above all have 鬼 in their names, thus the "three ghosts."

5. I can't eat shrimp anyway, but this sounds incredibly nauseating regardless.  Actually good?  Or something that people convince themselves into liking?  Whichever the case, while we were there we couldn't find a single place selling this dish.

6. Also sounds nauseating, but I have no problem with either pork or squid so maybe I'll try it sometime.  But again, couldn't find any restaurants selling it.

7. When I visited last week Ha Ban Bay was closed for renovation.

8. It looks a lot like Jialeshui in Manjhou Township.

Smells


A good smell: the smell of stewed pork. 

     But inside that smell

          The smell of pigs (terrible),

          The smell of soy sauce (comforting),

          The smell of cooking oil (neither good nor bad).

A bad smell: the ditch between the pineapple field and the cemetery.

     But inside that smell

          The smell of chickens (horrid),

          The smell of pineapples (nice),

          The smell of trees (refreshing),

          The smell of chemicals (unhealthy).

A good smell: the kittens I just washed.

     But inside that smell

          The smell of the milk they drank (nauseating),

          The smell of their freshly cleaned fur (familiar),

          The smell of their cage (pungent),

          The smell of their blanket, also freshly washed (nostalgic).

Leading me, of course, to the inevitable conclusion

That there are neither good smells nor bad.

For inside every good smell

Is a bad smell,

And inside every bad smell

Is a good smell.

Good or bad; bad or good?

One day, far away from home or far removed in time,

You might well find

That good and bad have changed places.

Related Entries:

2020年11月20日 星期五

Pingtung in the News 屏東的新聞 (South 南) 1


There are 29 townships, 3 municipalities and one city in Pingtung County.  It's exhausting to include news from every township, municipality and Pingtung City every time, so what I'll do instead is include news items from eleven different townships or municipalities in each entry.  This way I should be able to work my way through Pingtung County every three entries. 屏東縣包含了29個鄉, 3個鎮還有屏東市.  每次討論所有鄉鎮的新聞太累了, 所以我會每次討論11個鄉鎮的報告.  這樣子我每三篇新聞文章就會涵蓋到全縣內鄉鎮的新聞.

Oh, and I live in south Pingtung.  Perhaps I'll have more to say about these news items? 我住在屏東的南部.  有可能我對這些新聞報告比較關心這些新聞.


1. Linbian Township 林邊鄉

1a. A recent typhoon brought a lot of rain to both Linbian and Jiadong Townships. Military personnel were called in to assist with disaster relief efforts, and business at Linbian's night market suffered as a result of the inclement weather.  閃電襲南台灣!  林邊 , 佳冬夜晚雨勢增強優閃電挾大量雨勢  八軍團八十兵力待命戒備林邊廟口夜市不見人潮  攤販業績恐少三成 (1)

1b. The "Commander of the 4th Combat Area" recently visited Linbian, Jiadong and Hengchun to inspect the readiness of locally stationed troops in terms of disaster relief. 第4作戰區指揮官慰勉預置兵力部隊官兵 (2)

1c. An unlicensed driver struck and critically injured a man driving construction (or farming?) equipment on a local road.  Both the unlicensed driver and a man who rented him the vehicle he was driving were ordered by a judge to pay a hefty fine.  無照開車釀死亡車禍  租車和開車的判連帶賠償435萬 (3)


2. Jiadong Township 佳冬鄉

2a. Yanwen Village in Jiadong is prone to flooding, so people there started their water pumps in advance of the approaching typhoon. 嚴防颱風雨勢  佳冬鄉燄溫村抽水機先啟動牆上紀錄淹水高度  燄溫村遇颱風損失慘重  今年首陸颱風  村民戒備提前做防颱準備

2b. Here are some (small) pictures of a historic site in Jiadong.  If you're in the area you could stop by and visit some of the old Hakka buildings there, but if you're not already in the area I wouldn't bother. 屏東佳冬六根詩人步道的古蹟

2c. Is there a better way to say "ban tiao" in English?  Whatever it is, "ban tiao," a type of noodle dish popular among Hakka people, is made a little bit differently at one of Jiadong's many "ban tiao" restaurants. 屏東佳冬粄條 "海味" 與眾不同  六堆地區中唯一口味


3. Fangliao Township 枋寮鄉

3a. For whatever it's worth, Fangliao was recently recognized as a "classic town" by the Ministry of Transportation.  Fangliao Train Station was also upgraded from a third tier to a second tier station, meaning that more trains will be stopping there. 獲選經典小鎮又車站升等  屏東枋寮鄉雙喜臨門 (4)

3b. This is interesting.  A company installing solar panels in a remote area discovered an old fortification erected during the Japanese Imperial Administration.  Some want to preserve it, while others claim that it's too large for such preservation. 枋寮鄉日治軍事遺跡石頭營保存爭議  各方看法不同 (5)

3c. Has Fangliao's F3 Arts Village project been abandoned?  The local township office says no, and that work on restoring/renovating this area will begin again next year. 枋寮藝術村成廢墟 ?  公所 : 預計今年底重啟 (6)


4. Chun Rh Township 春日鄉

4a. Since that old Japanese fortification is right on the border between Fangliao and Chun Rh townships, here's another article about the preservation of that site.  This article has better pictures. 逃過戰火卻死於怪手 ?  屏東石頭營遭破壞  看菲律賓如何保存軍事遺跡

4b. A coffee bean picking activity was recently held in Chun Rh. 185縣道咖啡那麼的香 -- 探索出熱的咖啡原鄉採豆體驗活動 (7)

4c. The Pingtung County Government recently celebrated the diamond anniversaries of several local married couples.  One of these couples live in Chun Rh Township. 重陽敬老讚欑鑽石婚表揚


5. Fangshan Township 枋山鄉

5a. You know that 7-11 with the "dolphin arch?"  A lot of garbage piles up on the beach near there.  A beach clean-up activity was recently held in the area. 台1線屏東枋山海岸熱點  淨灘清出552公斤垃圾 (8)

5b. During the above-mentioned typhoon, all of the schools and government offices from Fangshan south closed for the day. 閃電颱風來襲  屏東縣府宣布恆春等六個鄉鎮停班停課

5c. Two "online friends," one from Hualien and another from Fangshan, made an appointment to meet in Fangshan.  After failing to find their online friend, the other friend called 911.  After a search, the other person was discovered in a state of "mental distress."  This person was later taken to the hospital. 與網友相約枋山沙灘見面  不見人影獨見衣物 ... 海巡警消找到人 (9)


6. Shrdze Township獅子鄉

6a. A resident of Shrdze died unexpectedly at the age of 23.  The family of the deceased is very poor, and was unable to afford a funeral.  Local police donated money to help the family with the burial. 獅子鄉青年23歲驟逝  方警結合民間善心人士大愛助處理後事

6b. Private companies are investing heavily in the development of solar power in south Taiwan, and Shrdze Township is one of the many areas where they're trying to install solar panels.  In the case of Shrdze Township, the planned development encroaches upon protected land. 8年砸2.4億要在保育區種綠電  南台灣土地重劃大王每年收租賺2000萬 (10)

6c. This article introduces some local attractions, one of which, Shuangliu Forest Recreation Area, is in Shrdze Township. 台灣4大溫泉之一在屏東 !  探索浪漫溫泉公園 , 日本皇室欽點的美人湯 (11)


7. Checheng Township 車城鄉

7a. A man was robbing temples in the Checheng area.  He has since been apprehended by police. 屏東香油錢大盜車城落網  誇張破壞行徑全被拍下 (12)

7b. The new dormitory at Checheng Elementary School was opened recently, and the Pingtung County Magistrate, a graduate of the school, was on hand for the opening. 屏東車城國小新校舍啟用  縣長潘孟安回母校備感溫馨 (13)

7c. Down in Checheng and Hengchun townships, where the typhoon was a lot stronger, over 10,000 homes went without power. 颱風砍倒鷹架砸車  恆春 , 車城萬戶停電


8. Mudan Township 牡丹鄉

8a. Anthropology at work?  A group of totem poles were installed around Mudan Reservoir long ago.  These totem poles, carved by a local artist and rendered in the traditional Paiwan style, depict ancestor spirits with exposed genitals.  Local residents, viewing these totem poles as "indecent," covered the genitals with skirts.  An argument centering around these skirts has involved the Mudan Township Office and various other groups. 為祖靈圖騰穿裙  屏東牡丹鄉舌戰 (14)

8b. Here's an article introducing Syuhai Hot Spring.  It doesn't get much more remote than that place. 屏東旭海溫泉山巒環抱  浪漫燈海夜景夢幻 (15)

8c. On the eve of Chong Yang Festival, a meal was cooked for residents of Mudan Township over the age of 75.  The cooking was supervised by a chef from Mudan Bay Villa Resort. "職場人語" 暖心煮義  牡丹灣Villa行政主廚李建德


9. Manjhou Township 滿洲鄉

9a. A man piloting a boat from Shing Hai Port in Manjhou went missing at the end of last month.  His boat was later found drifting off the coast near Dawu, in Taitung. 協尋 !  屏東滿州興海港漁民  出海失蹤一天僅留船

9b. An expert on parent-child education recently visited Manjhou Elementary School to talk about character building education. 親子專家奔波4百公里  促滿州親子教育功能最大化 (16)

9c. Here's an article on some "undiscovered" tourist spots in Pingtung.  Among these tourist spots is the place with the sand dunes (Gang Dzai Village) in Manjhou. "2020屏東景點推薦"  屏東才不只墾丁好玩 !  公開12處絕美私房景點 , 讓外地人超羨慕啊


10. Hengchun Municipality 恆春鎮

10a. Plans for a scenic railway in Hengchun were recently stalled by the national government, which thinks the potential economic and other benefits of such a railway don't justify the money, time and trouble required to build it.  I think the Executive Yuan is right on this one, but many residents of Hengchun are outraged over the decision.  Some are even demanding that the government start building an expressway to alleviate traffic in the area. 恆春觀光鐵道變幻影  屏東鄉親爭屏南快速道路 (17)

10b. The Shipai (Stone Tablet) Park was renovated four years ago, but fell into disuse soon after.  The Hengchun Municipality Office has plans to make it available to the local indigent population. 石牌公園 "展館" 閒置多時疑遭破窗占據  恆春鎮公所計畫轉型公益用

10c. A man fell into the sea and disappeared.  Emergency personnel were unable to find him. 恆春男子落海失蹤未尋獲  搜救人員持續搜尋


11. Liuqiu Township 琉球鄉

11a. Xiaoliuqiu is trying to reduce carbon emissions by subsidizing a switch from gasoline-powered scooters to electric-powered scooters.  Scooter rentals are a big source of income for many residents on the island. 小琉球推低碳旅遊成效欠佳  上萬部燃油機車滿街跑 (18)

11b. Vase Rock on Xiaoliuqiu is an extremely popular place to take pictures.  Recently a tourist attempting to take pictures of it fell in between the "wave-breaking structures" next to the stairs and hit his head. 尷尬 !  男遊客小琉球自拍美照  踩空跌落堤防 (19)

11c. The Sha Ma Ji Campground, once a popular spot for weddings, was recently shut down.  Many people voiced regret over the closure. 曾辦 "海島集團婚禮" 帶動觀光  小琉球露營區停擺讓人嘆惜

Related Entries 相關的文章:


1. Of course I was glad no lives were lost, but in terms of getting a day off that typhoon was a real letdown.  It rained a little, there was a slight wind, but that was it.

2. Speaking of locally stationed military personnel, they've been staging a lot of exercises in the area.  I wonder if it has anything to do with the recent purchase of weaponry from the States.

3. Bet you anything he was passing another car at speed on a two-lane road.  That kind of accident happens a lot around here.

4. There's been a lot of roadwork in the area too.  I could see Fangliao growing more after all of the various infrastructure projects are completed.

5. I love the idea that this huge thing was just sitting there for decades, not far from a highway.  Nobody really noticed it until recently.

6. Some new restaurants have opened in that area too.  At least three of them are not to be found on Google Maps.

7. A lot of farmers in the "mountain townships" seem to be banking on coffee beans.  I doubt it will prove as lucrative as they think it will.

8. I f**king hate that 7-11.  Not exactly sure why.

9. This seems to happen often.  Two people that only "know" each other online decide to meet at some remote location and then something tragic happens.  In Taitung such meetings are often the prelude to a drowning.

10. The County's solar power plan isn't all it's cracked up to be.  I have the feeling that several private companies are using it to squeeze a lot of money out of the area.

11. Shuangliu is a nice walk.  If you're going up to the top try to get there early.  Otherwise the fog will obscure the view.

12. From the article it sounds like this guy was either crazy or had some big brass balls.

13. I was THIS close to living in that dormitory.  Had I not taken a position further north, I would be typing this at Checheng Elementary School.

14. Keep in mind that just about all of those Paiwan residents are Christians now.  Their relationship with their ancestral spirits is complicated.

15. If you're thinking about going there, be warned that it's TINY.  Beautiful drive though.

16. I dunno.  Sometimes this kind of "talk" gets religious.  Every time people talk about "character building" in an educational context I get skeptical.

17. Question is, where would they put such an expressway?  There are dozens of private homes, businesses, villages and protected areas between Fenggang and Hengchun.  I really can't figure out where they would build such a thing.

18. Xiaoliuqiu is about 12 KM around.  I know this because I walked around it last week.  There's really no need to rent a scooter there.  In the absence of electric-powered scooters, bicycles would suffice.

19. By "wave-breaking structures" I mean those cement things placed along coastlines that look like jumping jacks.  In most case the correct name for them is "tetrapods," but I can't remember if the "wave-breaking structures" on Xiaoliuqiu have five "feet" or not.