2023年4月28日 星期五

Are They Coming? Are They Here?


Scenario 1: An All-Out Invasion

I suppose I'll have heard about it far ahead of time.  You can't get that many troops and that much equipment into position without alerting someone.  So, let's assume that China slowly amasses troops and various vehicles in Fujian and other places across the Taiwan Strait, all the while hurling more and more threatening rhetoric at Taiwan.

The two biggest questions being 1) what Taiwan will "do" to trigger this situation, and 2) what its response will be.  I put "do" in quotation marks because I don't think Taiwan needs to do anything.  China's internal situation will reach a certain level of instability, and for those in power the means of addressing this instability will be the invasion of Taiwan.

I think that people in Taiwan flatter themselves in thinking that their political decisions have such a large effect on China.  I doubt that it matters much whether they vote DPP or KMT, or whether they waive their own flag or the flag of Chinese Taipei.  Communist China has always claimed Taiwan, the only deciding factor in attempting to reclaim it is China's internal disposition.

Hell, the other day I heard two Mainland news broadcasters claiming the Philippines as their own.  In the end the conventional reasons don't matter as much as people think they do.  It comes down to China's domestic situation, which comes down to the CCP's confidence in its hold over the people.  This in turn comes down to demographics, the economy and intrigues within the communist party.

As for Taiwan's response, I really have no idea.  Is this before or after the next presidential election?  Are the DPP or KMT in power?  What's going on with the economy at that point?  How much warning has Taiwan had?  How dedicated is the average Taiwanese person to preserving Taiwan's autonomy?

Could the U.S. trigger an invasion of Taiwan?  Maybe, but the U.S. is still one of China's biggest trading partners, and I don't think either side is ready to decouple just yet.  Congressmen will pledge their support for Taiwan, China will send boats and aircraft across the Strait, and around and around we go.  In my opinion one thing that might trigger a Mainland Chinese invasion is some kind of internal collapse within the U.S. itself, something so severe that China might figure it could take Taiwan off the board without serious consequences.

But in the event, what would I do?  Well, that depends on a lot of factors, not least of which is the amount of time between threats and military action.  Part of me wants to say I would take my wife and children and leave Taiwan, but it would be extremely difficult for my wife and I to leave her parents and other family members behind.  I really don't know what I would do in this situation, but I do know that I wouldn't fare well in communist China.

And it could be that I'd get kicked out anyway.  This blog is evidence enough against me.


Scenario 2: China decides to blockade the island.

This, I assume, would occur much faster than an all-out invasion.  China need only get its boats and planes into position, prevent traffic to and from the various ports, and there you go.

What would a blockade look like?  It's impossible to know.  Perhaps it might be attempted just before the next presidential election, in order to sway the vote toward the CCP's obvious ally, the KMT.  Perhaps it would accompany some other event, such as Taiwan's President signing an international agreement, or a truly relevant international organization offering Taiwan a place at their table.

A shorter blockade would be bad enough, but a longer blockade, perhaps lasting several weeks or months, would be terrifying.  During such a blockade China would try to dampen or completely obstruct the island's communications with the outside world, thus pressuring Taiwan's elected government into any number of terms favorable to the Mainland.  In a way this would be worse than an all-out invasion, in that an invasion would clearly signal the enemy's positions on land, sea and air.

Imagine if bombings were a part of this strategy.  You or I would be sitting in some bomb shelter, not knowing when the bombing would cease or what was really going on.

And who can really say whether such bombings would break Taiwan's resolve, or make its citizens more determined to resist?

I've heard certain foreign residents boast that they would help defend Taiwan, and that they would join a resistance movement provided it would have them.  I can't help but smile a little at this.  Would they really man the battlements?  Would they be ready to sacrifice their lives?

Given sufficient warning I'd probably leave.  Again, I can't say for sure, but I'm not a citizen here and I feel like that fight is better left to Taiwan's citizens.  If Taiwan wanted me in that fight (I flatter myself that it would), I think its government would have made it easier for me to become a citizen in the first place.  I enjoy my life here, and I can't see myself returning to the States, but just the same I feel like it wouldn't be my fight.

But of course I'm not the only person making decisions in my family.  My wife and I would need to have a serious conversation about that should the situation arise.

Here's hoping it never does.


Scenario 3: The World Keeps On Turning

What would I do?  Why I'd continue to lurk here of course, quietly waking up each day, quietly going to work, quietly spending time with my friends and family, and quietly saving money.

Years ago I read an interview with a Mainland businessman about the Cross-Strait situation.  He had this to say: "Taiwan?  China?  Who cares?  Everybody should just get rich!"

I think his point of view bears consideration.  His attitude probably isn't that unique in Taiwan or China, even if few would go so far as to vocalize it.  Only those furthest from the possibility of fighting really want war.  The rest of us, living out our quiet lives, have better things to do.

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2023年4月21日 星期五

Kaohsiung in the News 高雄的新聞 (East 東) 3


 
There are 38 districts in Kaohsiung City.  The districts discussed here are all east of the Formosa Freeway (#3).  They're much more rural than districts west of the Formosa Freeway, have a much lower population density, and are generally more scenic. 高雄市分為38個行政區 。  這裡文章討論的行政區都位在福爾摩沙高速公路以東 ,  這些行政區和高速公路以西的行政區比較起來: 較鄉下 、人口密度較低 、風景比較好。



1a. This article introduces Tianliao's Moon World.  It's a very scenic area, partly because it's difficult to build there and partly because it's not a good area for farming. 田寮月世界惡地成美景  專家 : 不建設即是最好建設

1b. An elderly woman suffering from memory loss disappeared after leaving her home for a walk.  Police began a search, and she was located 37 hours after her disappearance. 老婦山區走失37小時  田寮警動員搜山尋獲

1c. ...and here's another article introducing Moon World.  There's not much else to see in Tianliao! 田寮月世界  奇異的不毛之地



2a. Politicians in Kaohsiung representing the DPP are pushing for an inspection of private residences built on farmland in Qishan.  Construction of large houses/homestays on land reserved for agricultural use is a big problem in many parts of Taiwan. 旗山爆農地 "綠營權貴" 豪宅群  監委要查了 !

2b. There was a huge fire in Qishan, which (in a way) isn't surprising given the recent lack of rain.  Even with the concerted efforts of Kaohsiung firefighters, it took well over 5 days to extinguish this blaze. 創紀錄 !  旗山林地大火延燒3天3夜  全市消防隊已輪過一圈打火

2c. The Qishan District Office is discussing a plan to build a crematorium in the area.  Many residents oppose this plan. 旗山殯儀館設置案捲土重來 ?  高雄市議會今開協調會



3a. The fire in Qishan spread to Neimen and Shanlin districts. 燒了4天 !  高雄內門 , 杉林區林地大火終於撲滅



4a. Many of those serving in several district government positions changed jobs recently.  The director of the Qishan Household Registration Office returned to Meinong to serve as Meinong District Mayor. 高雄市12區長調動  謝鶴琳回鍋任美濃區長

4b. Members of the Agriculture and Forestry Committee visited Neimen and Meinong to investigate how the local pineapple crop is grown, harvested, stored and transported to market.  They hope to streamline the supply chain in the area.  There has been a lot of volatility with regard to pineapple prices in south Taiwan. 高市議會農林委員會考察內門 , 美濃 助農友拓展通路

4c. Firefighters held a fire safety activity at Longshan Elementary School. 消防向下扎根  美濃區龍山國小舉辦消防體驗活動



5a. After that fire, another.  The big fire was extinguished only to have another fire break out on 4/18 in Shanlin. 高雄又見山林火警  田寮區殘火今晨才撲滅



6a. Firefighters were called in after another fire set in a field got out of control.  Both this fire and another fire on the same day in Alian District were set by locals trying to clear brush from their land. 高雄阿蓮 , 六龜燒雜草  消防人員冒險搶救 (2)

6b. This article invites you to enjoy the pink shower tree blossoms and hot springs in and around Liouguei. 六龜花旗木浪漫迎賓  東高雄賞花泡湯送好康

6c. With Liouguei and nearby districts experiencing a prolonged drought, the water utility has set up several water supply stations in the area. 高雄山區水源枯竭  水公司在甲仙 , 六龜設供水站



7a. The Transportation Bureau has published a map/guide to assist bicyclists looking for scenic routes through Maolin. 一張圖看茂林11條追風路線  3等級等追風族邊騎車邊賞螢

7b. It did finally rain in Kaohsiung, though mostly in low lying areas, far from the catchment areas that would alleviate the current drought conditions. 高雄落雨了  可惜集中平地未下在集水區



8a. Local firefighters held a fire safety activity in Jiaxian.  This event coincided with the local taro, bamboo shoot and plum harvests. 甲仙區一年一度芋筍梅節  消防分隊進行防火災宣導

8b. Coffee beans are also grown in Jiaxian.  An activity was recently held there to promote coffee beans and other local agricultural products. 高雄甲仙大田社區青銀共創  推半杯咖啡 , 打造將翎慶典

8c. The Southern Cross-Island Highway between Kaohsiung and Taitung has been open for a year, and the continual traffic through districts like Jiaxian has been both good and bad for local residents.  On the plus side development has increased economic opportunities in the area, on the minus side traffic and garbage are becoming big problems.  Both the Jiaxian District Office and the Transportation Bureau are looking at ways to address these problems. 南橫通車滿周年 !  甲仙人潮曾連開2超商  賓來溫泉旅店常客滿 (3)



9a. It's begun raining up in Taoyuan.  Local police are urging those driving the Southern Cross-Island Highway to exercise caution. 高雄桃源區開始降雨  警 : 南橫公路濕滑小心慢行

9b. Representatives from the Taoyuan District Office met with local farmers to discuss environmentally friendly farming methods and offer resources.  Many farms in Taoyuan claim to be environmentally friendly, though there is some doubt as to the truth of these claims. Attending these meetings offers a path toward certification as a "green farm." 安全農業前進偏鄉  高雄桃源搶搭履列車

9c. This article and accompanying video discuss the Bunun Tribe's rite of manhood.  There are many Bunun villages between eastern Kaohsiung and western Taitung. 桃源區聯合成年禮  延續布農族文化精神



10a. Several business owners donated 600 Japanese cherry trees to Namaxia District.  It is hoped that these trees will attract more tourists to the area. 業者攜手區公所種櫻花  拓展那瑪夏觀光 (4)

10b. It's firefly season in Namaxia.  Check the article for pictures. 那瑪夏螢火蟲大軍報到  奈良美智驚喜造訪 (5)

10c. Kaohsiung City's Tourism Bureau has been selling guided tours of Namaxia and Jiaxian districts.  The response has been overwhelmingly positive, with demand exceeding supply.  Over 5000 people have already embarked on these tours and the feedback has been good. 高雄山城小旅行夯爆  首發團秒殺那瑪夏湧入超過5000名遊客 (6)

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1. It doesn't say so in any of the linked articles, but this has to be the same fire.  The north end of Qishan is between Neimen and Shanlin.

2. I'm not quite sure if this practice of burning brush from fields is illegal in all places, at all times.  If it isn't it should be, and violators should be punished to the full extent of the law.  Aside from property and habitat damage, this practice has already led to the loss of several lives.

3. A small rant here: many Taiwanese tourists are DIRTY.  I live near Kenting, and no, you can't blame it all on tourists, people from out of town, city people, country people, older people, younger people or any other group you care to think up.  Name a group -- I dare you -- and I can provide examples of members of that group littering in my area.  The government needs to make environmental education more of a priority, and steps need to be taken to clean up Taiwan.  There, I'll get off my soapbox now.

4. One of the donors offered a rather fanciful story about driving his car through the area, having his car flip over during an accident, and being saved from a mortal plunge by roadside trees.  I'm not sure if I believe it.

5. No reason to specifically visit Namaxia for this reason.  Any township/district deep enough in the mountains should have fireflies.  In my experience viewing these creatures is always a 50/50 proposition.  Sometimes you drive up there and it's amazing, other times you're straining your eyes to see a handful of fireflies.

6. To put things in their proper perspective, it takes about two hours to drive from Kaohsiung Main Station to Namaxia District.  IF there's no traffic and IF all the roads are clear.  Namaxia is far removed from the lives of most people in Kaohsiung City.

2023年4月16日 星期日

Nanzih District, Kaohsiung City 高雄市楠梓區


Nanzih is south of Ciaotou and Dzeguan.  I regard it as the "suburbs." It's still part of what I consider "downtown Kaohsiung," but it's less built up in places.  It's growing, but there's still a lot of room to grow around Kaohsiung University. 楠梓位於橋頭 和 梓官的南部 。  楠梓高雄市的部分,但我覺得它比較像郊區 ,  雖然楠梓在發展 , 但是高雄大學附近還有很多空地 。

According to the last census, 191, 853 people live in Nanzih. 上次人口統計表示, 楠梓的人口是191,853人 。


This dragon sits on a bridge over the Houjin River, across from the Kaohsiung Metropolitan Park.  The eastern half of this park is in Nanzih, while the western half is in Ciaotou. 這條龍位在後勁溪都會公園對面的一座橋上 。  公園的東半部在楠梓 , 西半部在橋頭 。

Is it worth visiting?  Eh, it's just OK.  If you're a runner it's a good place for that, but otherwise I wouldn't bother. 值得去嗎 ?  還好 ! 公園滿適合跑步的 , 但其他的休閒活動的就沒那麼好了。


Not far from the dragon you'll find this Filipino restaurant.  There's a large Filipino community in Nanzih, probably because of its Export Processing Zone. 離龍不遠處有這家菲律賓餐廳 , 楠梓菲律賓居民多,大概跟加工區有關係 。

I've eaten at the restaurant once.  I'm no expert on Filipino cuisine, but I liked it. 這家餐廳我吃過一次 ,  我不是常常吃菲律賓料理, 可是我覺得這家不錯 。


At the southern end of the district is the Nanzih Export Processing Zone MRT stop.  I walked all the way from here to the other side of Kaohsiung University.  It was an epic walk. 楠梓區南部有楠梓加工區捷運站 ,  我從這裡走到高雄大學的另外一邊 , 真的走很遠!

This is looking south, with Banping Mountain in the distance.  The northern half of Banping Mountain is in Nanzih, while the southern half is in Zuoying. 這張照片是往南邊看的 ,  遠處有半屏山 。  半屏山北邊的一半在楠梓 , 南邊的一半在左營 。


This is inside the Export Processing Zone.  It turned out to be a surprisingly pleasant place to walk through.  There were almost no cars and very few people on the sidewalks. 在楠梓加工區裡面 ,  讓我驚訝的是在這裡走路很舒服 ,  車子很少 , 行人也不多 。


"Win-Win."  I love this company's English name. "Win-Win," 我很喜歡這家公司的英文名字 。


This clock is in the center of the Export Processing Zone. 這個時鐘在加工區的中間 。


To the north of the Export Processing Zone is the residential part of Nanzih, which stretches along the Houjin River from east to west.  I know this area fairly well. 加工區北邊有楠梓社區 ,  這個社區在後勁溪邊 ,沿著溪從東部延伸到西部 , 我對這個地區比較熟 。


Storefronts along Dexian Road.  Most of these apartment blocks are older, but the apartments within them are still fetching high prices. 德賢路的店面 。  這附近的公寓很舊 , 可是價格還是一樣貴 。


The inconvenient thing about this area is the distance to the nearest MRT station.  I imagine most of those living in Nanzih face a less than convenient commute to and from work, but to some extent that's just life in a big city. 住楠梓不方便的部分是捷運站比較遠 。  我想楠梓很多居民的上下班路途不是很順利, 可是這是大城市裡都會碰到的問題 。


This is the Houjin River.  The residential areas near the river are much nicer, and it's further away from the factories. 這是 ,  靠近溪岸的社區比較高級 , 離工廠比較遠 。


This is one of the newer apartment buildings, and no, apartments here aren't cheap.  This building has a great view of the river, and those living near the top can probably see all the way over to the Taiwan Strait. 比較新的公寓大樓可不便宜 。  這棟大樓有岸的風景 , 高樓層的公寓可以看到台灣海峽吧 !


Nanzih has two Carrefours, which gives some indication of the district's population density.  This is the store near Kaohsiung University.  There's another Carrefour to the east, very close to the Jungshan Freeway. 楠梓有兩家家樂福 ,  從這件事可以看出楠梓的人口密度 。  這家靠近高雄大學 , 另外一家在東部 , 靠近中山高速公路


I'm really confused about what this restaurant does or sells but maybe I'm not cool enough.  They definitely make Thai food and beignets, but the signs in front of this location are confusing.  Their FB page is almost equally confusing. 我不太清楚這家餐廳在賣什麼 , 有可能是我不夠酷。  我知道他們賣泰式料理法式的beignets, 可是餐廳前的牌子讓我搞混了 ,  他們的FB也是 。


Kaohsiung University is in northwest Nanzih.  I've been all over this university, mostly because my wife once took the TOEIC here and I had to wait for hours on campus before she was finished. 高雄大學位於楠梓的西北部 ,  我把這所大學都逛完了 , 因為我在這裡等我太太考完多益


At the west end of campus.  This small wetland is a sample of what you'll find still further east, in the ecologically protected area closer to the Taiwan Strait. 校園的西部 , 這塊小濕地是生態保護區的一小部分 ,  真正的濕地比較靠近台灣海峽


More houses, closer to the Metropolitan Park.  As I walked back to the MRT stop I could hear children playing, and birds chirping in the trees.  It was a good day to be outside. 比較靠近都會公園的房子 。  我走回去捷運站的時候聽到孩子在玩的聲音 ,也有鳥在樹上唱歌的聲音 ,  那一天是戶外散步的好日子。

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2023年4月11日 星期二

Restaurants I Like 我喜歡的餐廳 : Taitung 台東 2

 Sam's Burger
山姆漢堡


Type of Food 料理類別 : American 美式料理

Location 地址 : 台東縣台東市信義路186號 Taitung County, Taitung City, Xinyi Road #186

Hours of Operation 營業時間 : 11 am to 2 pm, then 5 pm to 9 pm Monday to Friday.  They're open until 9:30 pm on Saturday and Sunday. 每天早上十一點到下午兩點 , 晚上五點到九點 ,  禮拜六 、 日開到九點半 。

Website 網址 : https://www.facebook.com/SamsBurger.tw/timeline/

Getting There 交通: From the Taitung Train Station you'd need to take a taxi, if you're anywhere downtown you can walk there. 如果你在台東市區, 你可以走路到這餐廳 ; 如果你從台東車站去的話要坐計程車。

Price 價錢 : Moderately expensive. 有點貴 。

Parking 停車 : If you're driving a car, the easiest option is parking in the underground lot next to the Showtime Movie Theater.  From there you can walk over. 如果開車的話 , 最好是在秀泰影城下面的停車場停車 , 從那裏走到餐廳只要幾分鐘 。

Should You Make A Reservation? 要訂位嗎 ? : People do, but judging by the number of customers I saw last time I was there I doubt it's necessary. 有的人會訂位 , 可是我上次去時他們的生意沒那麼好 , 我覺得應該不用 。


Thoughts 意見:

Sam's Burger is old school Taitung.  Back in the day, when the only other option was McDonald's*, many of us loved Sam's Burger.  Is it the best burger in Taitung County?  Nope, far from it.  Is it the best burger in Taitung City?  Probably not. 山姆漢堡有點歷史了 。  很久以前 , 當台東只有麥當勞的時候 , 很多人很喜歡山姆漢堡 。  他們的漢堡是台東縣最好吃的嗎 ?  不是 !  他們的漢堡是台東市最好吃的嗎 ?  不是 !

I have a lot of history there however, and going to Sam's always brings back memories. 可是我在那裏有許多的回憶 , 所以每次去都充滿了懷念 。

If you haven't been in a while, be aware that they changed locations, and that some of the menu items were discontinued.  Sam's used to be on Kaifeng Street, away from the center of town, in a bigger location.  Now they're in a smaller location very close to the Central Market. 很久沒去的客人應該注意:  餐廳換了地點 , 菜單上有的餐點也不見了 。  以前山姆漢堡開封街上 , 離市區比較遠 ,  那時候店比較大 ,  他們現在搬到中央市場附近的小巷子裡。

If you're visiting Taitung City you might give Sam's a try.  It's a comfortable place to sit, even if it lacks some of the vibe it once had.  In my opinion the spicy Mexican beef burger is the best thing on their menu, though I have friends who swear by other menu items. 來台東玩的遊客可以吃吃看山姆漢堡的料理 ,  它的座位不像以前那麼舒服, 可是在那邊吃飯聊天還是不錯的。  我覺得他們的辣味牛肉堡是菜單上最好吃的 , 可是有的朋友有不同的看法。

These days Sam's faces more competition when it comes to burgers.  Wow's, McDonald's, Mos Burger, Laya Burger and Burger King are all within walking distance.  Wow's used to be the best burger in town, but the quality of their food has deteriorated since the owner moved back to Australia. 現在山姆在市場內有競爭對手 :  Wow's廚房 、 麥當勞 、 摩斯漢堡 、 拉亞漢堡漢堡王都在附近 。  以前Wow's是市區裡最好吃的漢堡 , 可是老闆搬回去澳洲之後就沒有那麼好吃了。 

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*I'm overgeneralizing.  There was also the Hokie Diner (America Diner), a place whose name I'm forgetting near Blue Dragonfly's location, and for a place offering bagel burgers.  Oh, and Inn By The Village used to serve hamburgers.

2023年4月10日 星期一

Taiwan 101: "I know kung fu!"


Like a lot of guys my age, I grew up on martial arts movies.  Some of these martial arts movies were from the States, and featured the likes of Jean Claude Van Damme or Chuck Norris; some of them were from Hong Kong, and featured Jackie Chan or Bruce Lee.

Like many martial arts movie fanatics I eventually graduated to martial arts classes.  I've studied Tae Kwon Do, Jeet Kun Do and a couple other martial arts.  I studied these martial arts for around three years altogether, and during that time I was never in a fight, and I never joined any kind of tournament.  Did martial arts make me more able to defend myself?  I have no idea.

Many Western guys like me, many of those raised on a steady diet of Bruce Lee, afternoon karate classes and American Ninja, have spent a lot of time thinking about "Asia" before ever visiting the region.  In their minds this "Asia" is a very romantic notion, quite far removed from reality.  It's a place where magic still lives, often in the form of some little-practiced martial art.  

They never bother themselves with the fact that life in modern Asia is usually quite different from the glimpses they've received though movies.  Many of them, having witnessed the advent of the internet only after the onset of adulthood, also never bother to go online and look into the truth or falsehood of various Asia-centric fantasies.

"If I could just get there," many of them think, "Everything would be better.  My true potential would be realized!"

I was well past my love affair with martial arts when I first arrived in Taiwan, but I've met a few guys who've come here imagining mist-shrouded temples and sword-wielding assassins.  In hearing them talk I often imagine a much younger version of myself, a kid equally obsessed with ninjas, samurai and kung fu.


I've run into a couple Western guys in Taiwan still on that wavelength.  One of them was into mixed martial arts.  Another studied kung fu in the States.  Both of them had  that yearning, that desire for some secret only "Asia" could impart.  One of them was convinced that Yunlin was the place to learn ancient Chinese secrets, a fact which made me chuckle when I thought of the part of Yunlin where my wife grew up.  The other guy kept bringing up Taoism and obscure temples.

Thing is, there are people who actually study kung fu and other traditional arts in Yunlin.  I've seen it firsthand.  It's just that their "secret arts" are practiced more in relation to temple festivals, and aren't quite the lifestyle that unknowing foreigners imagine them to be.  I don't know everything about Yunlin's "kung fu scene," but what I saw was distinctly unimpressive.

I'm also reminded of a foreign teacher I met in Pingtung not long ago.  She told the following story with a straight face, in the presence of several others, and as far as I know she believed every word she said.

To hear her tell it, she'd watched the movie Doctor Strange not long before, and in the course of that film she came to believe in magic.  Thus inspired with a belief in the supernatural, she sought out a "master" in the vicinity of Pingtung City.  This "master," she told us with all due solemnity, was the son of a Japanese assassin, and he would teach her magical techniques "when she was ready."

Was she ever ready?  Is she now able to pass through walls and fly through the air?  I don't know.  She got fired not long after telling us that story.  But I enjoy the thought of her retelling this story throughout Taiwan, causing polite consternation in Taiwanese listeners and outright disbelief in expats.  Many people will think she's a little unstable, some will even think she's crazy, but I like the thought of her bouncing around the island, believing wholeheartedly in magic.  I wouldn't hire her for a cram school job, but she does make the world more colorful.

I can't tell you where to learn kung fu, but I can say this: chase your dreams.  Maybe there is magic left in this world, and maybe you're destined to find it.  And even if you aren't, you're likely to learn a lot in your search for it.


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NOTE: This will be the last Taiwan 101 entry.  I've exceeded my "ten entry rule" with regard to this topic and it feels like time to put it to bed.

2023年4月6日 星期四

Food Poisoning


What follows is only my personal experience.  I'm not going to make any grand statements about the quality of food in Taiwan or compare it to food (or food hygiene) in other countries.  I'm not one of those expats who think of Taiwanese food as "dirty," and I'm also not one of those expats who consider the food of my home country superior to Taiwanese food in any way.  

I've lived in Taiwan for over 22 years, and I've eaten Taiwanese food regularly for that length of time.  I consider most Taiwanese food both nutritious and safe to eat.  If you don't think so you might be eating in the wrong places, or pursuing types of food that are better eaten in moderation.

1. The First Time I Got Food Poisoning

This is one I remember very clearly because I was so new to Taiwan when it happened, and also because the events preceding it were so unusual.  I'd only been in Taiwan for a few weeks, it was my first time anywhere in Asia, and most local foods were completely unfamiliar to me.

I was walking through the Fengjia Night Market in Taichung when I noticed that a fried food stall was selling skewers of chicken hearts near the entrance to the university.  Chicken hearts?  Never had those!  Let's give them a try!

I finished about half my skewer of terrible-tasting chicken hearts before I threw the remaining hearts down a nearby alley.  Seconds later an alley cat ran out from the shadows where it had been hiding nearby, sniffed the discarded hearts, and decided that no, they weren't worth eating.  That's when I knew I was in trouble.

I spent the next few days enjoying diarrhea, a high fever, and various other complaints.  I believe I also got medicine at some point, but it didn't help much.  Lesson learned I suppose, but I could have done without the education.

2. Other Times I Got Food Poisoning

The 9-21 Earthquake is partly to blame for the fact that I can no longer eat shrimp.  Unbeknownst to me, the power in the local Hyper Mart went down either during or just after that momentous event, resulting in refrigerated shrimp that weren't entirely refrigerated.  

To this day the mere smell of shrimp makes me sick, and as a result I have to avoid a lot of local foods that contain it.  I'll still eat it accidentally and find out later on (蝦米 and 蝦仁 are in a lot of foods), but as long as I'm not aware of eating them it's not a problem.  It's a mental block I don't seem able to overcome.  I can remember enjoying shrimp.  I just can't do it now.

Shortly after that I got very sick from some garlic bread I bought at a bakery.  I was sweating and feverish for days, and at one point it got so bad I even fell down a flight of stairs.  Thankfully I can still eat garlic bread.

The chicken hearts, shrimp and bread episodes all happened when I was new to Taiwanese food.  I wasn't eating the most balanced diet then, and I also wasn't able to distinguish hygienic from unhygienic food.  After you've been around a while you'll begin to notice "warning signs" with regard to particular restaurants: places being empty during busy times of day, a lack of repeat customers, strange locations, etc., but when you're new to Taiwan it's hard to read the writing on the wall.

3. The Most Recent Instance

My most recent bout of food poisoning occurred about a week ago, after visiting a Japanese restaurant in Hengchun.  The ironic thing about this instance was that I was actually eating my wife's meal.  She had ordered a bowl of pork and rice topped with an egg, while I had ordered a bowl of beef and rice without an egg.  She mistakenly started eating my order, while I, thinking little of it at the time, ate hers.  As you've probably guessed, it was the egg that did me in.  It was a very runny egg, the kind of egg I've eaten with Vietnamese food many times without issue, but this time my stomach wasn't having it.

Let me tell you, salmonellosis is not your friend.  I spent over six hours the following morning either vomiting or shitting myself into a stupor.  It was the kind of sickness where you enter the bathroom and aren't sure whether to sit down or stand up.  In between bouts of vomiting and shitting chills would work their way up and down my body, leaving me weak and slightly disoriented.

As she left for her job the following morning my wife asked if she should take me to the emergency room.  I declined, thinking the worst was over.  Thankfully I was right, but it took me several days to fully recuperate, and I'll be very careful of runny eggs in the future.

It was, all in all, worse that recent battles with covid-19.  Covid at least left me with an appetite, and never made me vomit.  With Covid I wasn't feeling great, but at least I was able to do things.  Salmonellosis kind of put me on sleep mode for a day or so.  I was unable to do much aside from sleep and drink cold water.

4. Conclusion

So yeah, those are my experiences with food poisoning in Taiwan.  All I can say is be careful what you eat, be mindful of where you eat it, and put some thought into where the food you eat comes from.  

This said, it's not usually obvious which restaurants, food stalls or food sellers are going to be a problem.  I've eaten in restaurants that looked DISGUSTING and had no problem, just as I've eaten in places that most people would consider "safe" and had major consequences.  The Japanese restaurant where I had the egg, for instance, looked relatively clean and professionally run.

Obviously fried food stalls are something to be careful of.  I don't THINK "gutter oil" is as much of a problem in Taiwan as it is in China, but aside from that there's also the question of how long their food has been sitting there, how long they've been using the oil they have, and where they get the food they're frying.  In this case "following the crowds" can be a good idea.  If a place isn't popular with locals there's probably be a good reason for that.

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