I'll be translating parts of six chapters from this book this semester. These chapters will correspond to the six townships in Pingtung I'll be visiting during this time period. This will be the last such entry.
霧台鄉
Wutai Township
人間桃花源 -- 霧與瀑布的故鄉
A Paradise on Earth -- A Land of Mist and Waterfalls (1)
霧與瀑布的故鄉 -- 霧台鄉 A Land of Mist and Waterfalls -- Wutai Township
霧台鄉是屏東縣地勢最高的一鄉 , 民國三十四年台灣光復後成立鄉政區域 , 定名為霧台鄉 . 全鄉山峰起伏 , 懸崖峭壁 , 地形崎嶇 , 有台灣的碧瑤之美譽 , 是避暑勝地 , 降雨集中於每年六月至九月之間 , 全鄉處處可見瀑布 , 尤其由霧台村到阿禮村及阿禮到知本沿途更為壯觀 , 是本省瀑布景觀極為著名的鄉鎮 . Wutai Township is the highest elevation township in Pingtung County. In 1945, after Taiwan was retaken [from the Japanese] by the KMT, this area was made into a township and given the name "Wutai." It's a region of undulating peaks, steep cliffs and rugged terrain. It has a stellar reputation as a summer resort. Most rainfall occurs between June and September every year, and waterfalls can be found all over the township. The route from Wutai Village to Ali Village and Jerben [in Taitung] is particularly spectacular. (2)
霧台村 , 阿禮村 , 去霧村 , 佳暮村在春夏季的午後棉絮般的白霧籠罩整個山區 , 如同覆蓋著一層的白紗 , 給人有如置身於雲端 , 忘卻塵囂之感 . 加上冬春之際 , 櫻花 , 桃花 , 梨花爭相鬥豔 , 宛如人間桃花源 , 稱它為 "霧與瀑布的故鄉" 豪不為過 . Wutai Village, Ali Village, Chuwu Village and Jiamu Village are enveloped in a white mist during spring and summer afternoons. This mist is like a layer of gauze, and it makes people feel like they're floating above the clouds. [In Wutai] they forget the hustle and bustle of the city. There are also the cherry blossoms, peach blossoms and pear blossoms in the winter and spring, each type surpassingly beautiful, and each type transforming Wutai into an earthly paradise. It's no exaggeration to call Wutai "a land of mist and waterfalls." (3)
伊拉瀑布 Yila Waterfall
伊拉村為進入霧台鄉境的第一個聚落 , 是排灣族與魯凱族混居的一個社區 , 村內有多處富有原始風味的瀑布群景觀 , 穿過伊拉村 , 續行至24號省道29公里處附近 , 即見第一座瀑布 "伊拉瀑布" , 瀑高約40公尺 ; 第二座瀑布位於24號省道33公里處 , 瀑分三層 , 高約70公尺 , 瀑水從高崖上分數道瀉下 , 甚是好看 . Yila Village is the first settlement you'll encounter as you enter Wutai Township. It's a mixed Paiwan and Rukai community. There are many waterfalls in the village, and as you pass through Yila Village and continue to kilometer 29 on Highway 24 you'll see Yila Waterfall, the first of these waterfalls. It's about 40 meters tall. The second waterfall is on kilometer 33. This waterfall has three levels, and is about 70 meters tall. It cascades down the cliffside in several channels and is very beautiful.
神山瀑布 Shenshan Waterfall
位於神山社區下方 , 往瀑布的小徑上 , 會經過魯凱族人種芋頭的梯田及小農舍 , 清晨到訪讓人覺得格外幽靜 . 神山瀑布高約40公尺 , 順著岩壁的縫裡飛瀉而下 , 衝力極大 , 水花四濺 , 聲勢駭人 , 瀑布下水潭幽深 , 旁邊的大石間有淺灘 , 平靜怡人 , 是消暑佳地 . [Shenshan Waterfall] is below Shenshan Community. As you walk the trail to the waterfall you'll pass by the small farmhouses and terraced fields where the Rukai tribespeople plant taro. Visiting in the early morning will make you feel particularly peaceful. Shenshan Waterfall is about 40 meters tall, and cascades down from clefts in the rock very forcefully. The water splashes everywhere, and fills the space with a resounding echo. The pool beneath the waterfall is very deep, and there are shoals around the big rocks near its edges. It's a pleasant place to cool off.
岩板巷 Slate Slab Lane
以石板為底 , 陶壺為指引標記 , 沿巷不時躍入眼簾的雕刻作品 , 訴說著長老 , 狩獵英雄 , 獵人報戰功... 集魯凱文化於一身 , 是領略魯凱文化的最佳入門途徑 , 岩板巷內有早期的石板屋及現代建造改良的石板屋 , 遊客不妨細心比較新舊之間的差異 . It's bordered by slate walls with clay pots to mark the way. From time to time carvings pop into view, telling stories about [village] elders, great hunters and the victories of warriors... this lane brings all the elements of Rukai culture together into an easily comprehensible package. There are both older and newer slate houses located on this lane, and visitors may wish to compare the older style of slate house with newer versions.
阿禮部落 Ali Village
"北半球最早開花的櫻花" 阿禮村位於標高一千二百公尺高的霧頭山西北方 , 全村由二個像是斜掛在山麓的聚落組成 , 擁有北半球最早開花的櫻花 , 櫻花齊開時節 , 甚為壯觀 , 鄉公所計畫於每年農曆年前後 , 舉辦櫻花季 , 遊客不妨親臨感受櫻花村的景色 . "The earliest blooming cherry blossoms in the northern hemisphere." Ali Village is located 1200 meters above sea level, on the northwest slope of Wutou Mountain. The village is composed of two settlements that look like they're hanging from the sides of the mountain. [Ali Village] has the earliest blossoming cherry blossoms in the northern hemisphere, [and this area] is very spectacular when the cherry trees are in full bloom. The Township Office plans to hold a cherry blossom festival here around lunar new year for visitors who wish to experience this cherry blossom village in person.
部落內有一瀑布 , 因瀑布與礦場道路交錯 , 形成瀑布中有路之壯觀畫面 , 瀑布有左右之雙瀑流 , 左瀑全年不乾 , 而又瀑於冬季會暫竭 . There is a waterfall in the village. Because this waterfall crosses over an [old] mining road, the intersection of the road and the waterfall makes for a very striking sight. There are two parts to the waterfall, one to the left and one to the right. The left part flows year round, while the right part dries up in the winter.
魯凱族阿禮社有一則傳說 : 太陽與壺結婚 , 生蛋 (女性) . 此蛋又與岩石出生的男子結婚 , 此時 , 唯有神靈尚不見人類 . 婚後再生一女 , 此女又與百步蛇結婚 , 生二男孩 . 後來 , 百步蛇夫婦和長男昇天 , 留下次男Canovak在人間 , 創建阿禮社頭目家 . There is a legend among Ali Village's Rukai people: In a time before human beings were known to the spirits, the sun married a pot and gave birth to a female egg. The egg later married a man born from slate rock. After their marriage, the egg and the man born from slate rock had a daughter, and this daughter married a hundred pace snake. This couple, in turn, gave birth to two boys. After this last couple and their eldest son ascended to heaven, there remained only Canovak, [the younger of the two boys]. It is to him that all Ali Village chiefs trace their ancestry.
好茶村 Haocha Village
被魯凱族人遵奉為 "雲豹的故鄉" 的舊好茶 , 是霧台 , 阿禮 , 神山部落的發源地 , 因為舊村落位在標高九百多公尺高的斜坡上 , 地處天臉 , 交通不便 , 謀生困難 , 因而光復後大半居民遷居外地 , 目前是全國唯一的原住民二級古蹟 . 新好茶部落於民國六十九年元月遷村完成 , 係有舊好茶族人遷村而建 , 房屋排列較為整齊 , 有 "山地模範村" 的美譽 . Old Haocha is regarded by Rukai people as "the hometown of clouded leopards." It is the area from which those who founded Wutai, Ali and Shenshan villages came. Located more than 900 meters above sea level on a steep slope, it was a very inconvenient place to get to, and living there was very difficult. For this reason residents moved away [from Haocha] after the KMT arrived in Taiwan, and it is presently the only class 2 aboriginal historic site in the country. Those living in New Haocha moved there in the 1960s, and it was built by those who moved there from the old location. The houses there are arranged in relatively good order, and it has a good reputation as a "model mountain village." (4)
探訪舊好茶部落的考古學者 , 登山客紛至 , 村內居民騰出自家房間供來客歇宿 , 在鄉公所的協助之下 , 以 "好茶民宿村" 的形象創造部落的新生命 . 簡單的民宿堤共食宿無虞 , 讓旅客在探索舊好茶部落的昔日樣貌之餘 , 也能體會新好茶的現代生活情景 . Archaeologists have conducted surveys of Old Haocha and hikers have visited the area in large numbers. Residents [of New Haocha] have vacated their rooms to provide places for guests, and with the help of the Township Office new life has been given to the village as "Haocha Homestay Village." The simple homestays eliminate worries about food and accommodation [in the area], allowing tourists to both explore Old Haocha and experience the more modern way of life in New Haocha. (5)
小鬼湖 Little Devil Lake
小鬼湖就是巴油湖 , 位於台東和屏東的交界處 , 海拔約2040公尺 , 湖的長度113公尺 , 寬800公尺 , 湖水終年不會乾涸 , 而且清澈見底... Little Devil Lake is [also known as] Bayou Lake. It's located near the county line between Pingtung and Taitung at an elevation of 2040 meters. The lake is 113 meters long and 800 meters wide. It doesn't dry up in the winter, and the water is so clear you can see right down to the bottom... (6)
...從阿禮村沿著往知本的採礦區平台後約二小時的腳程即可到達 , 由於此地區海拔較高 , 溫度低涼潮濕 , 樹幹都長滿著青苔與蕨類植物 , 行走在傾木與溪床間 , 有如步入蠻荒的原始時光隧道裡 . 由於來霧非常快 , 所以登山者必須在下午一點以前下山以防迷路 . ...it takes about two hours to walk from Ali Village to the mining area in Jerben, [Taitung County]. Because this area is so high up the temperature is low with high humidity. The trees are covered in moss and ferns, and walking through the fallen trees and along the stream beds is like stepping back into a primitive time. The fog here descends very quickly, and hikers must descend before 1 pm to avoid getting lost. (7)
發現屏東 -- 農特產 Discover Pingtung: Agricultural Goods
在魯凱族傳統觀念裡 , 農耕是屬於女性的工作 , 而其農作大部分以早作為主 , 例如小米 , 芋頭 , 玉米 , 甘藷 , 樹薯 , 樹豆 , 花生 , 南瓜等 . In the traditional thinking of the Rukai Tribe, farming is women's work. Most crops are early harvest crops like millet, taro, corn, sweet potato, cassava, pigeon peas, peanuts and pumpkins.
米 , 小米 , 甘藷 , 山芋為魯凱族的主食 , 南瓜 , 豆 , 野菜則為他們的副食 . Rice, millet and sweet potato are staples of the Rukai diet. Pumpkin, beans and wild vegetables are also part of their diet, but aren't consumed as much. (8)
愛玉子 (Ficus Pumila)
愛玉子屬桑科 (Moraceae) 無花果屬 (Ficus) 常綠蔓性植物 , 葉互生 , 果實長橢圓狀披 , 纏繞於岩石或樹幹上 . 是台灣特有的山地植物 , 一直廣受消費大眾喜愛 , 成為普遍化的消暑清涼食品 . Ficus pumila is an evergreen vine plant belonging to the Ficus species within the Moraceae genus. Its leaves alternate, the fruit is long and oval, and it wraps itself around rocks or tree trunks. It is a mountain plant unique to Taiwan. It has always been popular with consumers, and is a refreshing treat in the summer months. (9)
小米 Millet
小米又名 "栗" , 為原住民光復前及光復初期之主要糧食 , 用於炊飯 , 煮粥 , 製飴 , 及釀酒... 等 , 風味特殊 . 在原住民豐年祭的祭典中 , 小米為不可缺少之祭品之一 . Millet, also referred to as "li," is a staple common to all aboriginal tribes prior to the arrival of the KMT in Taiwan. It can be cooked with rice, turned into porridge, cooked into glutinous rice, fermented into wine, etc. It has a special flavor and is always offered to the spirits during aboriginal harvest festivals.
小米營養價值高 , 單位熱量 , 蛋白質及脂肪 , 含量均高於小麥粉及稻米 , 鈣 , 鐵 , 磷 , 胡蘿蔔素每100公克含0.019mg , 含纖維素8.6%則僅底於燕麥接近糙米 , 且具有特殊粒色及食味 , 以現在營養觀點而言 , 為一上好健康食品 . Millet is very nutritious. Its calorie, protein and fat content are higher than both wheat flower and rice. It contains 0.0019mg per 100 g of calcium, iron, phosphorus and carotene. It is 8.6% fiber, a fiber content comparable to oats and brown rice. The grains have a special color and taste. It's a healthy food based on our current understanding of nutrition.
Related Entries 相關的文章:
1. As always, I skipped the introduction.
2. I didn't translate the last clause in the last sentence because it was essentially repeating something said earlier in the same paragraph.
3. "Hometown of mist and waterfalls" would be a closer translation, but that doesn't sound as evocative to me.
4. Clouded leopards? Experts disagree as to whether this animal exists or has ever existed in Taiwan. It has never been documented in the wild, and what we have by way of "proof," is skins kept in aboriginal villages. They've conducted DNA tests on the skins and these tests proved inconclusive.
5. New Haocha Village was washed away by Typhoon Marakot after this book's publication, and the residents of that village were relocated to Linali in Majia Township. There have been efforts by the Township Office to make Old Haocha Village livable again, but I'm unsure how many (if any) people live in either place now.
Needless to say, all of those "model homestays" are long gone. For those who understand Chinese here's a video.
6. I skipped a local legend which has been introduced here before. I'd link it, but I can't remember where in this blog it is! One of those Place Name Stories entries?
7. I've been up that trail from the Jerben (Taitung) side, though I haven't walked up that far. The scenery is very beautiful, and this area is about as remote as you can get. For those interested the Taitung end of the trail is in the Jerben Hot Spring Area.
While staying in Wutai recently I was told that this area was no longer accessible to tourists, and that the Wutai end of the trail had been blocked off to everyone save local hunters. The person who told me cited typhoon damage as the main reason. Is it still closed? I have no idea.
I haven't hiked it, but I'm pretty sure his timetable is off by a lot. By way of indication as to how difficult Little Devil Lake is to get to, check out this video.
8. I skipped a section on taro, which was almost identical to a section in the recent entry on Sandimen Township.
9. This plant is the basis for a jelly commonly referred to as "Aiyu." It can be found in night markets all over the island. For those not familiar with it, it usually looks like a cup of yellow Jell-O.
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