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2023年4月6日 星期四

Food Poisoning


What follows is only my personal experience.  I'm not going to make any grand statements about the quality of food in Taiwan or compare it to food (or food hygiene) in other countries.  I'm not one of those expats who think of Taiwanese food as "dirty," and I'm also not one of those expats who consider the food of my home country superior to Taiwanese food in any way.  

I've lived in Taiwan for over 22 years, and I've eaten Taiwanese food regularly for that length of time.  I consider most Taiwanese food both nutritious and safe to eat.  If you don't think so you might be eating in the wrong places, or pursuing types of food that are better eaten in moderation.

1. The First Time I Got Food Poisoning

This is one I remember very clearly because I was so new to Taiwan when it happened, and also because the events preceding it were so unusual.  I'd only been in Taiwan for a few weeks, it was my first time anywhere in Asia, and most local foods were completely unfamiliar to me.

I was walking through the Fengjia Night Market in Taichung when I noticed that a fried food stall was selling skewers of chicken hearts near the entrance to the university.  Chicken hearts?  Never had those!  Let's give them a try!

I finished about half my skewer of terrible-tasting chicken hearts before I threw the remaining hearts down a nearby alley.  Seconds later an alley cat ran out from the shadows where it had been hiding nearby, sniffed the discarded hearts, and decided that no, they weren't worth eating.  That's when I knew I was in trouble.

I spent the next few days enjoying diarrhea, a high fever, and various other complaints.  I believe I also got medicine at some point, but it didn't help much.  Lesson learned I suppose, but I could have done without the education.

2. Other Times I Got Food Poisoning

The 9-21 Earthquake is partly to blame for the fact that I can no longer eat shrimp.  Unbeknownst to me, the power in the local Hyper Mart went down either during or just after that momentous event, resulting in refrigerated shrimp that weren't entirely refrigerated.  

To this day the mere smell of shrimp makes me sick, and as a result I have to avoid a lot of local foods that contain it.  I'll still eat it accidentally and find out later on (蝦米 and 蝦仁 are in a lot of foods), but as long as I'm not aware of eating them it's not a problem.  It's a mental block I don't seem able to overcome.  I can remember enjoying shrimp.  I just can't do it now.

Shortly after that I got very sick from some garlic bread I bought at a bakery.  I was sweating and feverish for days, and at one point it got so bad I even fell down a flight of stairs.  Thankfully I can still eat garlic bread.

The chicken hearts, shrimp and bread episodes all happened when I was new to Taiwanese food.  I wasn't eating the most balanced diet then, and I also wasn't able to distinguish hygienic from unhygienic food.  After you've been around a while you'll begin to notice "warning signs" with regard to particular restaurants: places being empty during busy times of day, a lack of repeat customers, strange locations, etc., but when you're new to Taiwan it's hard to read the writing on the wall.

3. The Most Recent Instance

My most recent bout of food poisoning occurred about a week ago, after visiting a Japanese restaurant in Hengchun.  The ironic thing about this instance was that I was actually eating my wife's meal.  She had ordered a bowl of pork and rice topped with an egg, while I had ordered a bowl of beef and rice without an egg.  She mistakenly started eating my order, while I, thinking little of it at the time, ate hers.  As you've probably guessed, it was the egg that did me in.  It was a very runny egg, the kind of egg I've eaten with Vietnamese food many times without issue, but this time my stomach wasn't having it.

Let me tell you, salmonellosis is not your friend.  I spent over six hours the following morning either vomiting or shitting myself into a stupor.  It was the kind of sickness where you enter the bathroom and aren't sure whether to sit down or stand up.  In between bouts of vomiting and shitting chills would work their way up and down my body, leaving me weak and slightly disoriented.

As she left for her job the following morning my wife asked if she should take me to the emergency room.  I declined, thinking the worst was over.  Thankfully I was right, but it took me several days to fully recuperate, and I'll be very careful of runny eggs in the future.

It was, all in all, worse that recent battles with covid-19.  Covid at least left me with an appetite, and never made me vomit.  With Covid I wasn't feeling great, but at least I was able to do things.  Salmonellosis kind of put me on sleep mode for a day or so.  I was unable to do much aside from sleep and drink cold water.

4. Conclusion

So yeah, those are my experiences with food poisoning in Taiwan.  All I can say is be careful what you eat, be mindful of where you eat it, and put some thought into where the food you eat comes from.  

This said, it's not usually obvious which restaurants, food stalls or food sellers are going to be a problem.  I've eaten in restaurants that looked DISGUSTING and had no problem, just as I've eaten in places that most people would consider "safe" and had major consequences.  The Japanese restaurant where I had the egg, for instance, looked relatively clean and professionally run.

Obviously fried food stalls are something to be careful of.  I don't THINK "gutter oil" is as much of a problem in Taiwan as it is in China, but aside from that there's also the question of how long their food has been sitting there, how long they've been using the oil they have, and where they get the food they're frying.  In this case "following the crowds" can be a good idea.  If a place isn't popular with locals there's probably be a good reason for that.

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2023年3月12日 星期日

Restaurants I Like 我喜歡的餐廳 : Kaohsiung 高雄 1

蒸鮮腸粉港式飲茶
Jengxian Hong Kong Style Restaurant


Type of Food 料理類別 : Cantonese/Hong Kong-style 港式飲茶

Location 地址 : 高雄市左營區裕誠路322號 Yucheng Road #322, Zuoying District, Kaohsiung City

Hours of Operation 營業時間 : 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. every day. 周一到周日,早上十一點到晚上九點半 。

Website 網址 : http://www.jsyamcha.com.tw/ 

Getting There 交通: They have two locations, one in Zuoying and one just south of Chengqing Lake. 他們有兩間店 ,  總店在澄清湖附近 , 裕誠店左營 。

I've been to the Zuoying location twice.  It's within walking distance of the Kaohsiung Athletic Stadium MRT stop.  The Chengqing location is far from any train or MRT stops. 我去過裕誠店兩次 , 從捷運巨蛋走到裕誠店沒問題 ;  澄清湖的總店離火車、捷運站很遠 。

Price 價錢 : It's expensive. 有點貴 。

Parking 停車 : You can probably forget about parking a car on the road in that area.  I recommend either paying for a space in a lot or taking the MRT. 大概找不到停車位 , 把車停在停車場或坐捷運比較好 。

Should You Make A Reservation? 要訂位嗎 ? : On a Friday or Saturday night?  Probably. 週五晚上或周六晚上最好訂位 。


Thoughts 意見:

I believe I've eaten about half the menu items (I can't eat shrimp), and I thought all of the dishes I had were very good.  Meat eaters might avoid the vegetarian dishes, but give those a try too.  The ones I had were excellent. 我相信自己吃過菜單上一半的菜色(我不吃蝦),我吃過的都很好吃,吃葷的客人可能不想點菜單上的素菜,但你應該試試看,因為菜單上的素菜一樣好吃。

In terms of an evening out, this would be a good place to take either a date or family members.  The service is very good and eating in feels very comfortable. 這裡適合帶親人或是情人去 。  他們的服務很好, 店內用餐的感覺也很舒服。

I've eaten at several Hong Kong-style restaurants in Kaohsiung and this one is my favorite. 我吃過高雄幾家港式餐廳,這是其中我最喜歡的。

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NOTE: I was planning on doing an entry for Tainan after this, but I think I've just changed my mind.  I'll be confining myself to Taitung, Pingtung and Kaohsiung restaurants for the foreseeable future.  I only eat in Tainan every other month or so, and attempting to introduce restaurants seems like stepping out of my depth.

2023年1月2日 星期一

Restaurants I Like 我喜歡的餐廳: Pingtung 屏東 1

Chaogenfan Fried Rice Restaurant
炒根飯 -- 炒飯專賣店


Type of Food 料理類別: Chinese 中式


Hours of Operation 營業時間: 11 AM to 2:30 PM, 5 PM to 8:30 PM, Tuesday to Sunday 星期二到星期日,早上11點到下午2點半 , 晚上5點到晚上8點半。


Getting There 交通: It's in central Hengchun, not far from the main road through town.  A drive south down Hengchun's Old Street will take you right by it. 它在西門旁,恆春老街上往北開就能到達。

Price 價錢: It's affordable. 划算。

Parking 停車: Parking a car in the area is a challenge.  You'll probably have to park either closer to Highway 26 or further up the hill, toward Hengchun Elementary School. 那裏很難停車,你可能要把車停在靠近台26恆春國小附近。

Should You Make A Reservation? 要訂位嗎 ?: Seats are limited, and it's not the kind of place that does reservations.  Be aware that it fills up quickly on weekends. 那裡的座位不多,但它不是屬於需要訂位的那種餐廳,值得注意的是它很容易在周末時被坐滿。


Thoughts 意見:

They serve fried rice, a few side dishes and soups.  In my opinion their fried rice is the best in Hengchun, and the side dishes and soups are also very good.  I've eaten there twice already, and I'd be glad to go back there again. 它們菜單上有炒飯、小菜和湯。我覺得那裏的炒飯是恆春最好吃的,小菜和湯也好吃。我去了二次,我以後也會繼續去那裏吃飯。

A nice thing about this restaurant is its location on the Old Street.  It's a good place from which to watch people.  There's also a big park/temple complex across the street, and the old city wall is nearby. 這間餐廳的地點很好,可以悠閒清楚的觀察行人。它前面就是西門的廣場,西門就在旁邊。

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2022年12月4日 星期日

Restaurants I Like 我喜歡的餐廳: Taitung 台東 1

Low Pressure Restaurant & Guesthouse
熱帶低氣壓


Type of Food 料理類別: Western 西式


Hours of Operation 營業時間: 11 AM to 10 PM 早上十一點到晚上十點


Getting There 交通: Car or bus are your only options.  The train line through Taitung doesn't run through that area and it's too far for a scooter. 一定要坐汽車或是公車 , 那附近沒有火車站 , 騎摩托車到那麼遠的地方會很累 。

Price 價錢: It's somewhat expensive. 有點貴。

Parking 停車: Not a problem.  There are usually parking spots right across the street. 沒問題 , 餐廳前面的那條路可以路邊停車。

Should You Make A Reservation? 要訂位嗎 ?: On a weekend maybe.  I've only seen the place full a couple times, but it seems to be getting more popular and it's usually busy. 周末的時候大概要訂位 , 雖然我去了幾次都沒客滿, 只是那家餐廳的生意越來越好了。


Thoughts 意見:

When I'm there I always order the burger.  This burger is very big and comes with a handful of French fries.  Since the quality of food at Wow's Kitchen in Taitung City went down, I'd say that this is the best burger in Taitung without reservation.  Just be warned that it'll cost you. 我每次去那裡都點牛肉堡 。  他們的牛肉堡很大,附餐薯條也很多。  台東市Wow's廚房的料理沒有以前那麼好了, 所以我覺得這家餐廳的漢堡是台東縣最好吃的 ,  你只要心裡準備好付比較高的價錢 。

Another good thing about this restaurant is the bar and its beer selection.  Last time I was there they were still serving the Taihu IPA, and this beer goes very well with an enormous hamburger. 這家餐廳的另外一個好處是他們的酒吧和啤酒種類。  我上次去吃飯時,他們有臺虎的IPA啤酒 ,這種啤酒配牛肉堡很讚。

As for the rest of their menu, I've sampled most of the rest of it via family members.  It's all good, though in my opinion the burger is far and away the best thing they make there. 他們菜單上的料理我大部分都吃過,  因為我家人點的時候給我吃一、二口 。  我覺得餐點都不錯, 但是他們的牛肉堡是最好的。

If you're a tourist passing through the area you'll also love the location.  It's right on the hill above Donghe Village, and even though that area is being developed there's still a view from the patio toward the ocean.  There are definitely more impressive views from other restaurants in Taitung County, but that particular view isn't bad. 經過東河村的觀光客也會喜歡這裡的風景 。  這家餐廳位在東河村上的山坡上,  從餐廳可以看到部分的海景 。  這個地區正在發展中, 雖然台東縣其他地方的餐廳有更棒的景色,但是這裡的風景也是數一數二的!

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2022年11月22日 星期二

Food for Them and Food for Us 他們的料理跟我們的料理


Every tourist spot has two kinds of restaurants: the restaurants local people visit and the restaurants for tourists.  This is just as true for Taiwan as it is for other places.  If you live somewhere like Taipei, Taichung or Kaohsiung you won't notice it as much, but in smaller cities and counties it's very obvious. 每個觀光地區都有兩種餐廳 , 一種是當地人喜歡的,另一種是觀光客喜歡去的 。 臺灣和其他國家沒有兩樣 。  你如果是居住在台北台中高雄那種大城市,你不會明顯的感受到區別 , 可是在比較小的城鎮裡,這個現象超級明顯。

In Taitung very few local people go to Blue Dragonfly, "Under the Banyan Tree" or Beinan Pig's Blood Soup.  Most local people don't frequent the Gaya Hotel or the Sheraton, or visit the newer, trendier places up the coast.  Sure, once upon a time many local people tried these restaurants, but after a while the novelty wore off, and they stopped going. 在台東,當地人比較不會去藍蜻蜓 、 榕樹下米苔目卑南豬血湯。  也不常去度假酒店或是桂田的餐廳 ,或是東海岸比較流行的餐廳 。  當然很多當地居民去過這些餐廳 , 可是那股新鮮勁過了之後, 就不再去了 。


It's the same in Fangliao, where I lived up until last June.  There are a few fancier restaurants in and around central Fangliao, and these restaurants serve tourists to the exclusion of almost everyone else.  There's the A-da Seafood Restaurant, Pi Coconut and Kasuga's Kitchen.  There are most of the places along the highway through Shuidiliao.  Fangliao is still a very rural place, and locals - if they eat out at all - prefer cheaper meals. 我住過的枋寮也一樣 。  枋寮市區有些較高級的餐廳的主要客人是觀光客,  阿達海鮮 、 椰門還有春日廚房 , 和 台1線水底寮那一段大部分的餐廳也是  。枋寮是個偏僻的地方 , 當地人會選擇比較便宜一點的餐廳 。

Since I moved to Hengchun I'm discovering the same thing.  I'll ask coworkers about certain local restaurants, and they'll greet me with blank stares.  "What's that, you say?  What restaurant?  Where?"  Quite often they'll have no idea that a certain restaurant even exists, and discussions of where they eat invariably veer toward tinier places, down alleys near the main road through town. 我搬到恆春之後也發現這個現象。  我問同事當地某些餐廳好不好吃的時候, 他們就會用奇怪的眼神看著我說 : "哪一家 ?  餐廳在哪裡 ?"  他們通常沒注意到那家餐廳的存在 , 跟他們討論地區餐廳的時候,他們都會提到一些小巷子中的小餐廳,靠近市區或中正路。


Me being the American that I am, I spent a couple months looking for good pizza and burger restaurants in the area.  This was done without any help from those I work with.  It's not that I'm blaming them; they simply didn't know.  Many times I'd visit some Western restaurant  outside of central Hengchun, and after returning to work the following Monday I'd tell them about where I'd been. 從美國來的我花了一、二個月尋找恆春的披薩跟漢堡餐廳 。 我的同事幫不了我, 因為他們根本不在乎那種餐廳 。  好幾個周末我去市區外的西式餐廳後, 在周一跟他們分享那家餐廳的經驗時, 他們每次這麼說 :

"What?" they'd say, "Where's that?" "什麼 ?"  "那家餐廳在哪裡 ?"

...but you know what?  I'm starting to share their lack of interest in the fancier restaurants.  A lot of the tourist-friendly places really are too expensive, and the food they offer really isn't that good.  The service is often terrible, and on weekends you have to make reservations far in advance. 可是你知道嗎 ?  我的想法越來越跟他們一樣, 很多友善觀光客的餐廳真是太貴了 , 料理也沒有那麼好吃 , 通常服務很差 , 周末時也要很早就先訂位 。


Don't get me wrong, I still love pizza and hamburgers, but I'm finding that they're often not worth the effort.  Drive down to Manzhou to get a slightly better pizza, or just order from Domino's?  Wonder if that burger restaurant near my elementary school has a free table, or just go to McDonald's?  More and more I find myself going for the cheaper, easier option, and I'm sure most of those living in this area feel the same way. 不要誤會, 我還是很喜歡披薩跟漢堡 ,  可是我開始覺得它們不值得我花費的心力。  開車到滿州吃好一點點的披薩,或是去達美樂就好 ?  擔心在我國小附近的漢堡餐廳找不到位子,或是去麥當勞 ?  我發覺自己越來越傾向選比較便宜、方便的餐廳 。 我相信大部分的當地居民也是這麼想吧 !

There must be some kind of "happy medium" between the restaurants for tourists and the restaurants for local people.  Sure, people like "fancy," but people also like consistency and affordability.  A fancy place with a view of the ocean will always make money, but I often wonder if the less fancy places aren't actually making more money over time.  When all of the costs of starting a business are calculated in, how much money is that fashionable homestay, restaurant or resort really making over a 10-20 year period, minus monies paid to workers, landlords and suppliers? 應該有餐廳是介於以上二種餐廳之間,並且是當地人喜愛的 。  每個人都喜歡漂亮高級餐廳 , 可是人們也喜歡固定時間會開門及划算的餐廳。  有海景的高級餐廳會賺錢 ,可是有可能以長時間來說, 一般的餐廳賺的錢更多 。 算一下開業成本,及員工薪水、租金......等, 那些新潮的民宿 、餐廳或是渡假村能在一、二十年中賺那麼多錢嗎 ?  


A steak dinner at Bossa Nova?  Sure, I'd enjoy that.  But if you're not that hungry maybe we could meet somewhere cheaper instead.  After all, how often is a 700 NT meal seven times better than a 100 NT meal?  And how many of us can afford to spend that much on dinner? 去巴沙諾瓦吃牛排嗎 ?  當然可以 , 可是也可以選比較便宜的餐廳。  話說回來 , 七百塊的晚餐跟一百塊的晚餐比較 , 七百塊的晚餐真的比一百塊的晚餐好七倍嗎 ?  有多少人負擔的起這麼貴的晚餐呢?

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