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2025年4月13日 星期日

Zuoying District, Kaohsiung City 高雄市左營區


Zuoying is north of Gushan and south of Nandze.  Like both Gushan and Nandze Zuoying is on the Taiwan Strait, though the military facilities in Zuoying prevent access to the ocean from this district. 左營位於鼓山的北部 、 楠梓的南部 。  左營鼓山楠梓都緊鄰臺灣海峽,  只是左營的海岸屬於軍事基地,不讓民眾隨意進去的 。

"Zuoying" literally translated means "Left Barracks," "Left Battalion" or even "Left Army (Encampment)."  There are differing accounts of how Zuoying earned this name.  It has been a strategic point for centuries, and troops have been stationed there since at least the Qing Dynasty. 左營的地名由來有多個不同的故事 , 但是它用於軍事基地的歷史可以追溯到清領時期

According to the last census, 197,906 people live in Zuoying. 上次的人口統計表示 , 左營的人口是197,906人 。


Just across the road from Gushan District is the Marine Corps. History Museum.  It's a SUPER detailed museum explaining the history of Taiwan's Marine Corps.  Some of the historical artifacts inside are interesting, but it's a really deep dive. 與鼓山區有一路之隔的海軍陸戰隊隊史館 。  這棟隊史館很仔細地介紹了陸戰隊的歷史 ,  有的展覽很有趣 , 介紹的歷史事蹟源遠流長。


North of there is the Zuoying Military District Story Hall.  It's a very overlooked place, and worth visiting if you're interested in the history of Zuoying and/or Taiwan's military history in general.  The building doesn't look like much from the outside, and it can be a bit hard to locate, but I highly recommend it. 陸戰隊史館北邊有左營軍區故事館 。  我覺得很可惜的是很多遊客沒注意到有這個景點 , 建議對左營區歷史或軍隊歷史有興趣的人來這裡參觀。 雖然故事館的外表不好看 , 也很難找 , 可是裡面的展覽很有趣 。


Nearby is the Taiwan Military Village Culture Park.  Of the three places near the military base discussed here, the Culture Park is probably the least interesting.  Many of the medals, flags and maps displayed here can also be found in the Military District Story Hall, so unless you're REALLY interested in local military history I'd give this place a miss. 再見捌捌陸 -- 臺灣眷村文化園區在附近 。  以三個軍區景點來說 , 這裡大概是最無聊的 。  這裡展覽的好幾個勳章、旗幟跟地圖在其他兩所博物館也有 。  我建議對軍隊比較沒有興趣的遊客不用來 。


To the east of the military base and at the north end of Zuoying is the Kaohsiung National Athletic Stadium.  I ran my first marathon here, many years ago.  It's an interesting piece of architecture and there's an extensive park around it. 高雄國家體育場位於軍區的東部 、 左營的北部 。  我好幾年前在這裡參加了我第一場的馬拉松。  它的建築很特別 , 體育場外面的公園也很大 。


Further east is Banping Mountain, also at the north end of the district.  The MRT passes through this mountain via a tunnel between the World Games and Zuoying stops.  Here's a story about Banping Mountain in case you're interested. 往更東邊是左營北部的半屏山 。  捷運列車經由隧道穿過半屏山連接起世運站左營。  這裡有一個關於半屏山的故事 。


This is from the viewpoint atop Banping Mountain.  That's the World Games MRT station in the center of the picture, and the Oil Refinery Elementary School stop off to the right.  Zuoying is to the left, and Nandze is to the right. 這是在半屏山上的景觀台 。  世運捷運站在中間 , 油廠國小捷運站在右邊 。  左邊那一半是左營區 , 右邊那一半是楠梓區

The Banping Mountain Trail is a much easier hike than the Chai Mountain Trail in Gushan.  It's a steadier ascent with less stairs. 半屏山登山步道比鼓山區柴山步道好走 ,  沒有那麼多的樓梯。


Lotus Lake is in the center of Zuoying.  In my opinion this place is slightly overrated, but it's still a good place for a walk or a bike ride if the weather's not too hot.  Local photographers labor over Lotus Lake, often making it look like something a step removed from heaven, but in my experience the reality can be quite different. 蓮池左營區的中部 。  我覺得這個景點沒有很多網站講的那麼好玩 ,  天氣涼的時候可以來散步或騎單車 。  有的攝影師很努力地把這個景點拍的像天堂 , 我去過好幾次 , 我覺得還好 。

In the distance here is Turtle Mountain, and not far from there is Zuoying's Old City. 遠處有龜山 , 離龜山不遠的是左營舊城 。


Many tourists, both foreign and domestic, visit Lotus Lake for the temples along its shores.  I will agree that these temples are cool, but on holiday weekends they're so crowded that they're not worth visiting. 許多國際和國內的遊客會來蓮池參觀池岸的廟宇 ,  我也覺得這些廟宇很酷 , 可是大節日和連假的時候遊客太多 , 不值得來這裡人擠人 。


These are the Dragon and Tiger Pagodas.  I'm guessing that everyone in Kaohsiung has visited these things at least once.  In the background is Banping Mountain. 這是龍虎塔 。  高雄市的居民都去過了吧 !  背景是半屏山


The (Xin) Zuoying Train Station, HSR station and MRT station are north of Lotus Lake.  Again that's Banping Mountain in the background. (新) 左營車站 、 高鐵站 和 捷運站都位於蓮池的北部 。  半屏山又當背景 。

This picture was taken from the train station, on the side opposite the entrance to the Shin Kong Mitsukoshi department store.  The Banping Mountain south trailhead is to the left, behind the white buildings and north up Highway 17. 這是在火車站 、 新光三越入口的另外一邊拍的 。  半屏山的登山口在左邊 ( 白色建築後方的台17線的地區) 。


The train line runs to Gangshan and other places further north.  Zuoying is a major transit point in north Kaohsiung, and just about everyone in south Taiwan has been through here at one time or another. 這個鐵道可以往北到岡山 , 更往北邊到其他的地方 。  左營高雄市的重要交通樞紐 , 來過臺灣南部的人都會經過這裡 。


Further south, on the other side of Lotus Lake, is Zuoying's Old City.  There's some background on this place here.  The local government has put a lot of effort into restoring it, adding a system of trails and walkways between the Old City and nearby Turtle Mountain.  You can also find another of the old city gates within a traffic circle further south. 往南,蓮池的另外一邊是左營舊城 。  這個景點的歷史在這裡 。  市府花了很多資源整修這裡 ,在蓮池龜山中間新增了許多步道 。 你也可以看到馬路中的圓環的更南邊也有另一座城門 。


The Guomao Community (sometimes called "Little Kowloon") is just south of the Old City.  There's not much here for tourists, but the scale of the buildings is worth admiring. 果貿社區 (有時被叫小九龍) 位於舊城南部 。  這個景點沒有那麼好玩 , 可是建築本身真是又大又特別 。


The most popular thing in Zuoying is probably the Hanshin Department Store near the MRT Athletic Stadium stop.  I don't love this place, but I do seem to end up here a lot. 左營最受歡迎的景點大概是漢神巨蛋購物廣場 。  這裡靠近巨蛋捷運站 ,  雖然我不是很喜歡這個地方,可是我還蠻常來的。


The famous Ruifeng Night Market is also nearby.  It doesn't look like much in the daytime, does it? 很有名的瑞豐夜市在附近 。  白天的時候不怎麼樣 , 對不對 ?

I feel compelled to say that the Ruifeng Night Market is my least favorite night market in all of Kaohsiung.  It's hot, it's crowded, and there's not much variety when it comes to food.  Walking through it can be extremely unpleasant on weekends. 我也想說瑞豐不是我在高雄最喜歡的夜市 。  瑞豐很擠、很熱, 料理也沒有那麼多選擇 ,  我覺得週末的時候走進裡面很不舒服 。


If you're looking to eat out in a similar setting I'd recommend the Longhua Market instead.  It's a good place to go if you're not sure what you want to eat. 如果想在類似的地方吃飯 , 我建議你去龍華市場 。  龍華市場的食物種類選擇也很多 。

I should add, by the way, that if you're looking for a night on the town in Kaohsiung and you don't want to go to the Pier 1 Arts Center Zuoying is probably your best bet.  There are a lot of good bars and restaurants in the district, and a surprising array of international foods. 我覺得在高雄想晚上出門玩的讀者不一定要去駁二左營也有許多餐廳 、 酒吧和國際美食 。

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2024年4月14日 星期日

鳳山舊城 , 左營 Zuoying's "Old City"


除了荷蘭人蓋的幾座紅毛城之外 , 台灣本島第一座中式城池 , 為康熙六十一年 (一七二二) , 於鳳山縣治所在地興隆莊 (今左營) 所築之土城 .  土城周圍八一0丈左倚龜山 , 右連蛇山 , 開四門 , 外有城濠 . Aside from the fortifications built [in Tainan] by the Dutch, the first fortified city built in Taiwan was the old fortified city built in what is now Zuoying [District, in Kaohsiung City].  The site [of this fortification] is in Xinglong Village, which was then under the administration of the provincial government in Fengshan.  It dates back to the 61st year of Emperor Kangxi's reign (1722), and the area fortified was 810 feet around, with Turtle Mountain one side and Snake Mountain on the other.  The fortifications consisted of four gates and a moat. (1)

當初之所以興建鳳山縣城 , 乃是康熙六0年時朱一貴在台灣南部舉事 , 首先攻破鳳山 , 把總林富被殺 , 守備劉定國兵敗後自盡 .  在慘痛的教訓下不得不築城以自保 , 雖然該城在永正十二年 (一七三四) 加植刺竹 , 乾隆二十五年 (一七六0) 又在四門增設砲位 .  但是在乾隆五十一年林爽文 , 莊大田率眾蜂起時 , 依然被攻破 .  不過翌年即為海壇總兵郝壯猶收復 , 但未幾又再陷敵手 .  直到乾隆五十三年 , 才由福康安獲得最後勝利 . The Fengshan Provincial Government was located in that area as a response to Zhu Yi-gui's uprising [against the Qing government] in south Taiwan during the 60th year of Emperor Kangxi's reign.  Zhu Yi-gui's [forces] first attacked Fengshan and killed the general Lin Fu there, and the defending commander, Liu Ding-guo, committed suicide after the Qing forces were defeated.  [For the Qing forces] it proved a painful lesson, and the need for better fortifications became clear.

The city's [original] defenses consisted of thorny bamboo screens which had been planted there during the 12th year of Emperor Yongzheng's reign (1734), and four cannon emplacements were added during the 25th year of Emperor Qianlong's reign (1760).  In the 51st year of Qianlong's reign, Lin Shuang-wen and Zhuang Da-tian led another uprising and the Qing were defeated.  During the following year, commander Hao Zhuang-yu recovered it, only to have it fall into enemy hands again soon after.  It wasn't until the 53rd year of Qianlong's reign that [the insurgents] were finally defeated, and Fu Kang claimed victory for the Qing. (2)

在連年戰火的摧殘之下 , 這座土城早已面目全非 .  此時地方官員以為鳳山城倚山而建 , 易攻難守 , 又覺得興隆莊多兵災 , 為不祥之地 , 乃決議將縣治遷往大竹橋莊陂頭街 (今高雄市鳳山區) . After [multiple assaults] during successive years of war, the [original] earthen city had changed almost beyond recognition.  At this time the local officials felt that the city's position near the mountains made it too easy to attack and too difficult to defend.  They also felt that Xinglong Village was an ill-favored place due to previous disasters which had occurred there.  For these reasons they decided to move the provincial government to Pitou Street in Dazhuqiao Village (present day-Fengshan District in Kaohsiung City).

變更縣治所在並不能改變鳳山縣的噩運 .  乾隆六0年 , 當地人士陳周全與陳光愛興兵 , 雖為理蕃同知朱慧昌平定 , 但嘉慶十一年 (一八0六) , 自封鎮海威武王的海盜蔡牽 , 吳淮泗又陷陂頭街新治 .  清廷大員又認為此處 "土薄水淺 , 地苦潮濕" , 而且地勢又孤立無援 .  將軍賽沖阿乃奏請遷回舊城 , 閩浙總督方維甸亦有此議 , 但因經費無著而未獲 . Moving the provincial government, however, didn't change the Fengshan Provincial Government's fortunes.  During the 60th year of Emperor Qianlong's reign, local agitators Chen Zhou-quan and Chen Guang-ai raised an army [and began another uprising against the Qing authorities].  Even though Li Fan's associate Zhu Hui-chang put down this uprising, during the 11th year of Emperor Jiaqing (1806) the pirate Tsai Qian, proclaiming himself "Great King of Zhenhai," and Wu Huai-sse overran the new seat of the provincial government.

Officials at the Qing Court also believed that this area had "thin soil, shallow water and a bitter and humid terrain."  They considered it an isolated and indefensible place.  Later still the general Sai Chong A-nai petitioned to have the provincial government moved back to its original position [in present day Zuoying], and Fang Wei-dan, governor of Fujian and Zhejiang had a similar proposal, but this plan was not approved due to a lack of funds.

道光四年 (一八二四年) 福建巡撫孫爾準來台勘估 , 在地方官民願分擔築城費用後 , 決定將縣治重新移回興隆莊舊治 .  同年 , 鳳山檳榔販子許尚謨反 , 陂頭新治又失守 .  在此情況下 , 遷縣治之議終於獲 . During the 4th year of Emperor Daoguang's reign (1824), Fujian governor Suen Er-zhun arrived in Taiwan to assess the situation.  After finding that local officials and other residents were willing to bear the cost of the enterprise, he decided to move the seat of the provincial government back to Xinglong Village.  During the same year betel nut merchant Xu Shangmo led another rebellion against the Qing government while it was still located on Pitou Street [in Dazhuqiao Village], and control of the area was lost again.  In the face of such a loss the Qing Court could only agree to move the provincial government back to its original location.

道光五年 , 官民集資 , 由知縣杜紹祈督工 , 擴大興隆莊舊城基址 , 向東北移動 , 捨蛇山 , 將龜山圍入城中 .  城垣俱用打鼓山石砌築周圍一 , 二二四丈 (約四公里) , 設四門 , 並於四隅各築砲台 , 以增強防衛 . During the 5th year of Daoguang's reign both the local government and private individuals raised funds, and local magistrate Du Shaoqi oversaw the work of building a new fortification in Xinglong Village.  The size of the original site was expanded, it was extended to the northeast, and both Snake Mountain and Turtle Mountain were enclosed within the city wall.  This city wall was built with stones from [nearby] Gu ("drum") Mountain, and the wall extended for about four kilometers.  Four gates were built, with cannon emplacements at each corner of the city for added defense. (3)

鳳山舊城全部工程於道光六年完工 , 但無巧不巧 , 知縣杜紹祈卻在這個當口得急病而亡 .  此一惡耗傳出 , 眾人同指興隆莊 "煞氣太重" , 根本是不祥之地 , 縣治則仍留陂頭街新城 .  這座舊城則從此荒廢 , 終至坍塌 . The "Fenghshan" Old Fortified City was completed during the 6th year of Daoguang's reign.  Unfortunately magistrate Du Shaoqi died of a sudden illness at the same time.  After news of this unfortunate even spread everyone began to see Xinglong Village as "an ill-favored place" that should be avoided.  The provincial government thus remained on Pitou Street, and the "old" [new?] city, went unused and ended up collapsing from neglect.

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NOTE: The Chinese text above was taken from "A History of Taiwanese Fortified Cities in Pictures" 圖說  台灣古城史 , published by 遠足文化 Walkers Cultural in 2014.  The Chinese was written by 載震宇 and the English was written by me.

1. Want to go see it?  The restored version can be reached on foot from the Zuoying Train Station.  Just take the local train south from Xin Zuoying.  After you exit the station walk south a little bit and you'll see it down a road to your right.

2. A big reason for this uprising was anger over taxes.  The Qing officials were very predatory about the taxes they exacted during this time, and many officials regarded the local population as a kind of "piggy bank" from which to fund their properties and family members back in China.  The Chinese text glosses over this fact, referring to the insurgents as "the enemy."  They had legitimate grievances.

3. Gu Mountain (Gushan) is just south of there.  It is the mountain for which Gushan District is named.

2023年3月12日 星期日

Restaurants I Like 我喜歡的餐廳 : Kaohsiung 高雄 1

蒸鮮腸粉港式飲茶
Jengxian Hong Kong Style Restaurant


Type of Food 料理類別 : Cantonese/Hong Kong-style 港式飲茶

Location 地址 : 高雄市左營區裕誠路322號 Yucheng Road #322, Zuoying District, Kaohsiung City

Hours of Operation 營業時間 : 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. every day. 周一到周日,早上十一點到晚上九點半 。

Website 網址 : http://www.jsyamcha.com.tw/ 

Getting There 交通: They have two locations, one in Zuoying and one just south of Chengqing Lake. 他們有兩間店 ,  總店在澄清湖附近 , 裕誠店左營 。

I've been to the Zuoying location twice.  It's within walking distance of the Kaohsiung Athletic Stadium MRT stop.  The Chengqing location is far from any train or MRT stops. 我去過裕誠店兩次 , 從捷運巨蛋走到裕誠店沒問題 ;  澄清湖的總店離火車、捷運站很遠 。

Price 價錢 : It's expensive. 有點貴 。

Parking 停車 : You can probably forget about parking a car on the road in that area.  I recommend either paying for a space in a lot or taking the MRT. 大概找不到停車位 , 把車停在停車場或坐捷運比較好 。

Should You Make A Reservation? 要訂位嗎 ? : On a Friday or Saturday night?  Probably. 週五晚上或周六晚上最好訂位 。


Thoughts 意見:

I believe I've eaten about half the menu items (I can't eat shrimp), and I thought all of the dishes I had were very good.  Meat eaters might avoid the vegetarian dishes, but give those a try too.  The ones I had were excellent. 我相信自己吃過菜單上一半的菜色(我不吃蝦),我吃過的都很好吃,吃葷的客人可能不想點菜單上的素菜,但你應該試試看,因為菜單上的素菜一樣好吃。

In terms of an evening out, this would be a good place to take either a date or family members.  The service is very good and eating in feels very comfortable. 這裡適合帶親人或是情人去 。  他們的服務很好, 店內用餐的感覺也很舒服。

I've eaten at several Hong Kong-style restaurants in Kaohsiung and this one is my favorite. 我吃過高雄幾家港式餐廳,這是其中我最喜歡的。

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NOTE: I was planning on doing an entry for Tainan after this, but I think I've just changed my mind.  I'll be confining myself to Taitung, Pingtung and Kaohsiung restaurants for the foreseeable future.  I only eat in Tainan every other month or so, and attempting to introduce restaurants seems like stepping out of my depth.