Checking Back In 再報告一次

Hey there, how are you?  Did you have a good summer?  Was it productive?  Was it fun? 嗨 ! 最近好嗎 ?  夏天過得如何 ?  很忙?  好玩 ?

My summer?  It was OK.  Sometimes I got tired of all the planes, trains and automobiles, sometimes I got tired of moving things from one place to another, but once the dust finally settled and I found myself in Taitung again I felt pretty good about both my summer vacation and the choices I've made during the past few months.  There was some drama at the end of last semester, but that's all behind me now. 我的夏天 ?  過得還好 。  我有時候覺得搭飛機、火車或汽機車跑那麼多地方很累 ; 有時候覺得從一個地方把東西搬到另一個地方一樣累 ，  最後搬回去台東以後，我覺得暑假很開心，我在過去幾個月中做的決定是對的 。 我上學期末時有點煩惱 ，但現在那種感覺消失了 。

Summer vacation?  Well, after moving our things from the rental house in Hengchun to our apartment in Taitung, my family of four got on a flight bound for Incheon, South Korea, where we spent a few hours before boarding another flight bound for Seattle, Washington, USA. 暑假呢 ?  我們從恆春把東西搬回到台東的公寓以後 ， 我們全家四個人坐飛機到韓國的仁川 轉機往美國西雅圖。

From Seattle we took a bus to Port Angeles, where my parents live.  Port Angeles is on the other side of Olympic National Park, within sight of Canada.  We spent about a month in Port Angeles, occasionally driving to scenic areas and eating at restaurants in town.  I ate A LOT of hamburgers on this trip, even though I didn't eat as much pizza or drink as much beer as I normally do. 我們在西雅圖轉換公車往奧林匹克國家公園靠近加拿大的安吉利斯港 。 我父母住在那裏 ，  我們在那邊住了一個月。 我們有時候開車到附近的景點 ， 有時候在安吉利斯港市區吃飯 。  我這一次沒吃那麼多披薩 ，也沒喝那麼多啤酒 ， 可是我真的吃很多漢堡。

During the same time period my younger daughter and I also visited my sister's family in Las Vegas.  Las Vegas is fun, but it's really hot and really expensive.  I ate a lot of good food while I was there, but my checking account was hurting after we came back.  I think that next time we go to Vegas I'll need to plan the trip better.  That town is designed to make people poor. 那個月我帶小女兒去拉斯維加斯 ，  因為我妹妹的家在那邊 。  拉斯維加斯很好玩 ， 可是天氣超熱又很貴 ， 我們在那邊吃很多美食， 可是也花了很多錢 。  我想下次去拉斯維加斯以前要先把那裏的生活費算好 ，那個城市會讓人變窮 。

After another week in Port Angeles we visited Seattle.  We strolled the waterfront, climbed the hill through the Pike Place Market, and then boarded the Light Rail at University Street Station.  Reddit and the local news often make downtown Seattle sound like an urban version of Fury Road, but honestly it's not that bad.  Sure, there are crazies around, and sure, the effects of meth on the homeless population are obvious, but for the most part downtown Seattle was fine. 回到安吉利斯港一個禮拜後我們去西雅圖市區 。  我們逛了waterfront， 之後去Pike Place Market， 最後在大學站上西雅圖的輕軌 。  Reddit跟當地新聞討論西雅圖市區的時候聽起來很恐怖 ，  雖然那邊街頭上有些精神狀況不佳的人 ， 還有毒品跟無家的人， 但是我還是覺得在西雅圖市區逛街滿有趣的 。

After Seattle we spent about a day in Incheon, passing the night at a hotel there between flights.  I'd visited South Korea once before, in 2002 or 2003, and I have to say that I enjoyed that country a lot more this time.  The food was good and walks around our hotel were interesting. 在西雅圖之後，我們在仁川一天的時間等轉機， 所以在那邊的旅館過一晚。  我2002或2003年的時候去過南韓一次 ，我覺得這一次韓國給我的感覺好很多 ， 料理很好吃 ， 逛街也有趣 。

After Incheon we boarded a flight to Taipei, then a train to Taitung, then a taxi to our apartment, and then we were all asleep, exhausted from all the buses, ferries, taxis, planes, trains and automobiles.  That was two weeks ago, and now I'm sitting in our apartment, typing this blog entry prior to eating my dinner. 我們從仁川回到桃園， 接著從台北搭火車回台東，再坐計程車回公寓。  旅行很累沒錯!   我已經回到台東兩個禮拜了， 在台東的公寓裡寫這篇文章 。

Oh, and after coming back from the States we also spent a few days in Kaohsiung.  We bought curtains for our apartment over there.  That was a few days ago. 對 ! 我們回來台灣之後去了高雄幾天 ，在那邊買高雄公寓用的窗簾 ，這是幾天前的事了。

Our travels now over, soon it'll be time to start work at at Hot Spring Elementary School in Beinan Township, Taitung County.  Here's hoping that this school year will be better than the last one.  I'm pretty sure it will be. 暑假的旅行結束了，  我要開始擔任台東縣卑南鄉溫泉國小的外籍英語教師了，   希望這學年的工作比上學年的好 ， 我的新學校已經開始給我這個好的感覺了。

Sometimes it feels weird to be back in Taitung after four years in Pingtung, sometimes it feels normal.  In some respects moving back here feels like "snapping back" into a life I lived four years ago, but then again there've been some changes in this county since I was last a resident.  Some places have been "developed," some businesses have folded, some friends have moved away and other friends have changed jobs. 在屏東四年之後 ， 搬回來台東的感覺有時候很奇怪 ， 有時候很正常 。 我有時候覺得好像彈指間回到自己四年前的生活方式 。我知道這四年間台東慢慢改變了些 :  有的地方被 "發展" 過了 ； 有的商店和餐廳停止營業 ； 有的朋友搬走了 ； 有的朋友換工作 。

And you?  What are you up to these days?  Where are you living?  What are you doing?  Maybe you'll let me know in your own good time.  Maybe I already know. 你呢 ?  你最近在忙什麼 ?  你住在哪裡 ?  這時候在做什麼 ?  你會隨時告訴我吧 ?  可能我已經知道了。

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Four Years in Pingtung

The Year I Hated Taiwan

An Earful of Taitung

We were late arriving.  It was Lantern Festival, and the Handan procession was blocking our route.  As we wove cautiously through the sound of firecrackers I studied the faces of the younger people on the trucks, looking for people I knew.  Were any of them former students?  Coworkers?  Friends?  It was dark, and hard to tell.

I considered tracking down DE, but he was following the procession and I'd already had enough of the noise, so I texted S and we agreed to meet at the Family Mart for the thousandth time. 

He arrived there before me.  He'd already staked out an outside table near to the automatic doors, and I waved a greeting from my bike.  After I'd returned with beers we started talking.

[Pause for a truckload of white-robed princesses, swaying to the sound of ceremonial horns.]

He's still working at the big cram school down the road, he told me, with KM and PF.  He'd just come from there, his formerly good mood diminished by an unruly class at the end of a long day.  We talked about some of his more troublesome students, and the ways in which he dealt with their behavior.

He then told me about people we both knew, his coworker PF showing up half an hour or so into our discussion.  K has been transferred to "real prison," S said, and is serving out his sentence in earnest.  S was sketchy on the details, because K can no longer send letters or receive phone calls.  Perhaps three years, S said, but the real question was whether or not K will be able to stay in Taiwan once he gets out.  There were differing opinions on the matter.

PF said he's been looking for a second job.  He's locked into a contract with the cram school where he works, dependent on them for his visa, but he isn't making enough money.  He said he'd have a scooter soon, and a scooter would allow him to look for work even further away.

I didn't see Q while I was in town, it didn't work out.

I didn't see C while I was in town, it didn't work out.

I didn't see KE while I was in town, I forgot to text him.

While we were sitting and talking and drinking H's son passed by.  I don't know H that well, and I'm even less familiar with his son.  Just the same H's son felt comfortable enough to sit with us a while, telling us that recent business at the night market wasn't good, and also telling us about a nonpaying customer H had to chase down on foot.  H's son told us that business the following night would be "crazy," and we collectively hoped (for their sake) that it would be.

As always, the subject veered into KM's doings.  S and PF are in a band with KM, and they often visit KM's house to either practice, attend late night drinking sessions, or both at the same time.  KM has a lot of ideas about what the band's "direction" should be.  PF showed me a short video of one of their recent concerts, though I couldn't really hear it over the noise of passing cars and distant fireworks.

[Pause for an SUV disguised as a dragon, pulling an idol within its portable shrine.  Techno blares from speakers in the truck bed.]

At about the same time I got a text from B.  Earlier I'd asked him if there were any new restaurants in town worth going to.  He sent me two links, one of which was to a new burger restaurant near Malan Elementary.  While S was talking I texted thanks back to B, telling him that I'd probably check out the burger restaurant the following Sunday.  B responded with a cascade of emojis, only some of which I was able to decipher.

Almost as quickly KT texted me back in response to the same query.  "I don't eat out," she said, "I always cook at home."

PF went home to his girlfriend.  S said that I'd met this girlfriend a month before, but I couldn't remember anything about her.

[Pause for a converted bus carrying dozens of people in identical red T-shirts.  Men dressed as supernatural beings bring up the rear as bottle rockets squeal upward.]

Three hours later S and I were still sitting there amid empty cans of beer.  Our conversation bounced between talk of people we knew and questions regarding S's plans for his son.  Was Jun-Yi a good school?  Where did D live now?  E was renting a studio in town?  How was working and/or living in Kaohsiung different from working and/or living in Taitung?  Another beer?  Another beer?  Another...?

We decided to go home.  S had classes the following morning, and I was tired from my drive up the coast.  We agreed to meet again that weekend, but neither of us could say when or where.  Would he have time?  Would I?

As I got on my bike another neon-garbed truck passed by.  It was full of people I might have known and might yet know again, all of them exhausted from the day's festivities.  And where were they going?  And what gossip were they going to share, and about whom?  So many people, going this way and that, each living lives in someone else's stories.

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What's Going On With Me 我身邊發生了什麼事 ?

I. My House 我的房子

We'll be renting the same house in Sigou Village, Pingtung County next school year.  Our cats like this house more than our apartment in Taitung.  It's old, but it has space for our car and it's in a good location. 我們下學年會繼續租屏東縣四溝里的房子 ，  我們的貓都覺得這棟房子比台東那邊的公寓好很多 。  雖然這棟房子很老舊 ， 可是地點很棒 ， 還有停車位 。

II. My Cats 我的貓

R.I.P. Smokey.  She joined Stripey, Muffin and Marty in heaven a couple weeks ago.  Our other four cats are fine. 兩個禮拜前我們的Smokey上天堂加入Stripey， Muffin跟Marty了 ，  還好其他四隻貓都很健康 。

III. My Family in Taiwan 我台籍的家人

My wife wants to continue at her elementary  school in Mudan next year.  My older daughter just graduated from Wenzao University and she just started a job in a hotel in Kaohsiung.  My younger daughter will be doing her work study at the Grand Hyatt in Taipei starting July. 我太太下學年想繼續在牡丹鄉當老師 ，  我大女兒剛從文藻大學畢業 ，開始在高雄的某間飯店上班 ，  她的妹妹七月會在臺北的Grand Hyatt開始實習。

IV. My Family in the States 我美籍的家人

My dad still plays music around Port Angeles, my mom is still waiting for Trump to go to jail, my sister moved to Las Vegas and my brother is giving bass lessons online. 我爸還在安吉利斯港參加音樂演奏 ， 我媽在等Trump被送進監獄 ， 我妹妹搬到拉斯維加斯，我弟弟在網上教低音吉他 。

V. My Job 我的工作

I guess I've decided to stay in Hengchun for another year.  I'm not loving the junior high where I work, but I have to hope that next school year will be better.  The elementary school continues to be an easy gig. 我差不多已經決定在恆春多留一學年了 ，  我不是很喜歡教國中的課 ， 可是我要抱著下學年會更好希望 ，  國小的課跟以前一樣沒問題 。

VI. The Pingtung County Government 屏東縣政府

Communication between the Pingtung County Government and local Foreign English Teachers (FETs) is still bad.  This semester I had to endure an online contract discussion and a two-day workshop in Pingtung City.  My teaching demonstration for the semester was fine. 屏東縣教育處和屏東縣的外師之間的溝通還是很差。  我這個學期有無聊的線上會議 ， 還要去屏東市參加兩天的研習 ，  我這學期的教學示範很順利。.

VII. Pingtung in General 屏東縣

We spend most of our time in Hengchun.  A month or so ago we spent the night in Wanluan, and from there we visited Changzhi, Neipu and Majia townships.  Some of the pictures from that trip can be found in this blog. 我們大部分的時間都在恆春 。  一個月前我們在萬巒過夜 ， 順便去長治 ， 內埔和瑪家鄉玩 ，  那次的旅程有的照片在這個blog裡。

VIII. Taiwan 台灣

There was a wave of sexual abuse allegations, and the usual bullying from China.  Apparently the sexual abuse allegations affect both of the big political parties.  People are also starting to talk about COVID again, but I continue to not wear a mask. 有一波性侵害的指控和平時來自中國的欺凌 。  性侵害指控同樣影響到民進黨跟國民黨 ，  人們又開始對疫情很緊張， 可是我跟以前一樣沒戴口罩 。

IX. The World 我們的地球

The world keeps on turning.  All I can remember at the moment is talk of wildfires in North America. 地球持續的轉，  而這個當下我記得的是北美洲某些地區發生了火災 。

Related Entries 相關的文章:

Neipu Township, Pingtung County 屏東縣內埔鄉

Majia Township, Pingtung County 屏東縣瑪家鄉

Changzhi Township, Pingtung County 屏東縣長治鄉

Are They Coming?  Are They Here?

The Wind 風

They never tell you about the wind.  Up to a few months ago I only came here in the summer, when the sky is blue and the weather's hot, and I never thought about the wind unless I went to the beach and saw the red flags flying. 人們不會跟你說的是風有多強!  我以前都是夏天來恆春， 看到的是藍藍的天空 ， 感受到的是炎熱的天氣 ，在沙灘上偶爾看到代表風浪強的紅旗跟著風搖來搖去。

In the winter it's another story.  In the winter the wind is everywhere, and even in the confines of my house I can hear it shrieking through the trees, pushing things over, and making a nuisance of itself in other ways. 這裡的冬天完全不一樣 。  冬天的時候風無處不在， 連我在房子裡都能聽到風吹打樹木的聲音， 或是推倒其他東西的碰撞聲。

At night, when I'm trying to sleep, I can hear the wind raging against the walls of my house.  I take some comfort in the fact that this house was built long ago, and has withstood many such onslaughts, but just the same it's hard to ignore the fury of the wind.  I hear the metal shutters outside my bedroom window complain, I hear the window frames slap together, and I hear the groan of trees across the street.  The wind will not let anything be. 晚上睡覺時會聽到強風撞擊著房子的牆壁 ，  還好我住的舊房子頂住了多年的強風仍屹立不搖，  只會聽到外面的風聲而已 。  我會聽到窗戶外面鐵門的拍打聲、窗框＂咖咖咖＂的撞擊聲， 和外邊的樹枝樹葉摩擦搖晃的聲音。  風不會讓任何地表上的任何物品鬆口氣！ 

It's the same when I ride my bike to school.  Sometimes I have to think about what I'll wear each day, avoiding any loose clothing.  I often have to hold my hat upon my head as I ride out of the village, and when I near the big temple gate I have to bow down low, straining my legs against the force of the wind.  As I struggle forward I see bits of plants and plastic that the wind has sent hurtling across the road, each bit destined to land in some other place, far beyond my sight. 我騎單車到學校也一樣 ，  我有時候要考慮一下當天要穿什麼衣服 ， 不可以穿寬鬆的衣物 。  我從村子出發的時候要用手壓好我的帽子 ， 靠近廟的牌樓時要彎腰 ， 並用力踏單車的踏板 。  風那麼強大 ， 連路邊的雜草和塑膠垃圾都被吹到莫名其妙的遠處 。

The wind.  Occasionally it's a perfect day, with the sun shining just as brightly as it does in the summer, but then the wind reasserts itself, reentering the towns and villages with a vengeance.  We'll have a moment of peace, only to have that moment disturbed by overturned scooters, lost umbrellas and scattered items of clothing. 那個風 !  偶爾天氣很好  ，像夏天一般艷陽高照 。 可是風會突然復活 ， 火大地回到各鄉村裡 。  只有一下子的平靜 ， 下一刻就是倒了的機車 、 不見了雨傘和找不到衣服的情景。 

There are times when I'm angry at the wind.  "There are things I want to do today," I protest, "But you're making them difficult." 我有時候跟風生氣 :  "我今天有想做的事 !" 我抗議 ! "你讓那些事變得難以達成 !"

There are times when I'm almost at peace with the wind.  "Rage on!" I yell, "I will not fall off my bike today!  I will press forward!" 我有時候可以接受強風的挑戰。  "來啊 !" 我大聲罵風 ， "我今天不會掉下腳踏車 !  我會一直往前走 !"

There are even times when I like the wind.  I'll be at home, in the midst of my cats, drinking a beer or watching a movie, and the sound of the wind's passage will make the inside of a living room seem more special, and more secure. 我有時候喜歡風 。  那是我在家跟貓咪一起坐在沙發上喝啤酒或看電影的時候 。 風在外面呼嘯的聲音讓客廳顯得更溫暖 ， 更牢固 。

The wind, the wind, the wind.  When will it stop?  When will another season arrive, so that I can go back to all my swimming and beachgoing, hiking and lazing in the sun?  None can say with certainty, but most of us are hoping that day comes soon. 風 、 風 、 風 !  風什麼時候會停下來 ?  下一個季節快到了嗎 ?  我很想游泳 ，很想到沙灘上， 很想去爬山 ， 也很想去曬太陽 。  沒有人可以肯定的說出那個時間， 但我們都希望那天早日到來。

They never tell you about the wind, but then again why would they?  The wind is a thing they'd like to forget, and not a thing to carry around in your thoughts on summer days.  The wind will disappear in the summer, when the sky is blue and the weather's hot, and at that time we won't think about the wind unless we go to the beach, and see the red flags flying. 沒有人會跟你說風的強大 ，為什麼要說呢 ?  他們都不要把風放在心上 ， 沒有必要在夏天想到 。  夏天的天空很藍 ， 天氣很熱 ， 只有去到沙灘看到紅色的旗子才會想到 。

But maybe the wind has other plans.  Only the wind can say. 也許風有其他的計畫 ， 那只有風可說 。

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Playing Tour Guide 當導遊

One of the fun things about living in a remote part of Taiwan is playing tour guide.  I don't get to do it often, but when I do I really enjoy it. 對我而言， 居住在鄉下地區有趣的地方是偶爾充當導遊 ，  我滿享受那個過程的。

When I lived in Taichung I didn't live in a remote area.  During my four years there I lived within walking distance of Tunghai University.  Even back when what is now Taichung City was Taichung County, I was well within the city limits. 在台中的時候，我住的地方離市區不遠，  住在那裡的四年都在東海大學附近 。 當時住的地方屬於台中縣，現在已經成為台中市了，說起來算在市區內。

I never had any friends or family visit me during those four years, but after my first year I got to show a few new foreign teachers around the city.  I can remember showing people around Tiger City, the Sogo on Chungkang Road (now Taiwan Boulevard), some of my favorite bars, and the Metropolitan Park.  I enjoyed seeing these places through someone else's eyes. 那四年我的家人或朋友都沒來找過我， 可是工作了一年後，我就有機會帶新來的外師參觀認識那座城市了。  我帶他們去老虎城、中港路上的太平洋百貨 、我喜歡的酒吧和都會公園 ， 經由他們的眼睛看這些地方是一件好玩的事情 。

I only lived in Hsinchu for a year, and I wasn't there long enough to show anyone around.  I recall taking the bus or train to places like Neiwan and Guanxi.  The rivers in the mountains were pretty, though there wasn't much along the coast. 我在新竹只住了一年的時間 ，沒機會當任何人的導遊 。  我記得我們那時候喜歡坐公車或是火車到內灣和關西那些地方 ，  山區裡的河川很美，可是海邊的景點不多 。

The 13 years I spent in Taitung, however, provided ample opportunities to play tour guide.  Taitung is a big tourist destination now, and over the course of my 13 years there I had the opportunity to watch it go from sleepy backwater to one of Taiwan's biggest attractions.  The Taitung County Government has put a lot of effort into bolstering tourism, and this quest for tourist dollars has been both bad and good for the area. 我在台東那13年的時間有很多機會扮演導遊 。  現在的台東很紅 ， 我住在那裏的13年裡見證了台東從後山鄉下到現在成為重要的旅遊景點。   台東縣政府努力推廣觀光業 ，這對當地造成了好與壞的影響。

Many friends and family members visited us in Taitung.  We enjoyed taking them to places in the East Rift Valley or along the coast.  In 2006, when I first moved to Taitung, it was easy to drive around the area, but by 2019, the last year I lived there, weekend traffic forced us to be a lot more selective about where we took people. 我們的家人和朋友會到台東拜訪我們，  我們喜歡帶他們開車走花東縱谷或是東海岸線。我們2006年剛搬到台東時，開車在路上很悠閒， 到了2019年我們離開前， 觀光客變多了， 假日的交通擁擠， 我們帶客人去任何景點前都要考慮交通與人潮。

In 2020 I moved to Fangliao.  We didn't get many visitors in Fangliao, partly because we spent most weekends in Kaohsiung, Taitung, or somewhere else.  Towards the end of my time there some friends from Taitung stayed at the house we were renting near Shuidiliao.  I can remember seeing them in our living room and thinking: "It's weird that they're here." 2020年的時候我們搬家到枋寮 ， 來枋寮找我們的客人不多 ， 因為大部分的週末我們在高雄 、 台東或是其他地方 。 我們快要搬家前有幾個台東的朋友來玩，我們住的房子在水底寮附近，  我記得看著他們坐在我的客廳裡的感覺很奇怪 , 心想 : "哇!他們居然在這裡!"

Fangliao, by the way, was more of a challenge when it came to playing tour guide.  We took our guests to a Paiwan restaurant, the Fangliao Fishing Port, and up the Mountainside Highway.  I think our guests were a bit unimpressed by these places, but then again time was a factor and they were already tired from a recent trip to Kenting. 在枋寮當導遊是比較大的挑戰 ，  我們帶客人去一家排灣族餐廳 、枋寮漁港跟沿山公路。  他們好像不是很喜歡這些地方， 可能是時間比較趕 ， 他們也已經在墾丁玩得很累才到的。

I now live in Hengchun, in the middle of Kenting National Park.  My brother and sister-in-law recently visited, but we didn't have many opportunities to take them around.  Of course I had ideas for where they could go, but they'd been here many times already.  A chance to play tour guide in this part of Taiwan will have to wait for another day. 我現在住在墾丁國家公園中的恆春 。我的小舅子跟我弟妹剛來過 ， 可是我們可以帶他們去玩的時間很短 ，  我當然也建議了幾個景點 ， 可是他們已經來過這個地區好幾次 了，所以我只能等之後有機會再扮演恆春導遊了。

If you're reading this and you know me personally, take it as an invitation.  If you're reading this and you don't know me personally, I can only hope you'll take it as a source of inspiration.  We all get jaded about the places where we live, we fail to see what's special about them, but given the right guest, and sufficient time, you can remind yourself what's good about the area you live in, and why you chose to live there in the first place. 歡迎認識我的朋友看到這篇文章後來恆春玩 ；  不認識我的人 , 這篇文章可以當你的靈感 ，我們通常對自己居住的地區感到麻木，忘了它特別之處， 可是只要有對的人來 ， 有夠長的時間 ，帶著他們認識自己居住的城鎮會讓自己想起它的好， 也會讓自己想起當初選擇哪裡的初衷。

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Hello to Sigou 四溝村好