2023年11月20日 星期一

Wutai Township, Pingtung County 屏東縣霧台鄉


Wutai Township is the northeasternmost township in Pingtung County.  Most residents of Wutai live on or near Highway 24, which connects Wutai to Sandimen further west. 霧台鄉位於屏東縣東北部的最邊邊。  霧台大部分的居民住在24號省道邊或靠近省道,這條省道連接霧台與西邊的三地門

According to the last census, only 3324 people live in Wutai. 上次的人口統計表示 霧台的人口只有3324人 。


Those without cars might be wondering how to get to Wutai.  You'll want to take bus 8233, which follows a route between Pingtung City, Neipu, Sandimen and Wutai.  We took the bus from the Shuimen Transfer Station in Neipu. 沒有車的讀者可能在想怎麼去霧台,  你可以搭8233公車,它行經屏東市 內埔三地門霧台。  我們是在水門轉運站上公車。

I highly recommend taking the bus.  Highway 24 is very scenic, but it's also very dangerous. 我強烈建議坐公車上去 。  24省道的風景很美 , 可是在那條路上開車還真是有危險性 。


From Neipu the bus passes through Sandi (Timor) Village, stops at a mountain checkpoint, goes over a bridge into Wutai Township, and from there climbs a winding road to Wutai Village.  There's another village, Ali Village, still further up Highway 24, but you'll need other transportation to get there. 從內埔出發之後 ,公車會停靠三地村跟一個檢查所 , 經過一座大橋後進入到霧台鄉,從這裡是一路彎彎曲曲的爬高,終點站是大橋另外一邊的霧台村。 24省道的終點是阿禮村 , 可是你需要別的交通工具才到的了那邊。

The building above is near the Wutai Village bus stop.  We stayed in a slate house across the plaza from this place. 上面的建築在霧台站上方 。  我們在廣場的另外一邊的石板屋民宿過夜 。


The Rukai Culture Museum is in front of the same plaza. 魯凱文物館也在廣場旁。


There's a more general exhibit on Rukai culture on the second floor, and a more specific exhibit on weaving on the first floor -- but no English!  All signage is in Chinese and Rukai only. 二樓的展覽是介紹魯凱族文化 , 一樓的特展介紹魯凱族人的編織 ,  牌子只有中文跟魯凱族語 , 沒有英文 。


The second floor of our homestay, Dream House, was a nice place to sit.  The view from there in the morning was amazing. 我們住的民宿是夢想之家 ,   早上的風景好美,二樓是個可以坐下來賞景的地方 。

The owner of this homestay was also very hospitable, taking time after dinner to explain the workings of the village to us.  Her homestay is full of Rukai cultural relics, and staying there felt like spending a night in a museum. 民宿的老闆很親切 ,  晚餐後她花了不少時間介紹魯凱部落的生活方式 ,  民宿裡有很多魯凱文物 , 在那邊過夜很像在博物館裡面過夜。

A small warning though, sounds go straight through the walls of a slate house.  If anyone nearby is having a conversation you'll hear every word. 我只要提醒一件事情 , 在石板屋裡聲音可以清楚的被聽到 ,  不管是戶內或是戶外的聲音 , 什麼聲音都會聽得很清楚。


The view down the valley from the same location.  That's the plaza to the right. 同一個地點 , 山谷的風景 ,  右邊是廣場 。


Wutai Elementary School is in the middle of Wutai Village.  If you're ever lost here just follow the pots.  They'll eventually lead you back to wherever you came from. 霧台國小霧台部落中間。  迷路的人只要跟著壺走 , 不用多久就能回到原來的地方 。


This is definitely the place to see aboriginal art.  Much of the art you'll see on local houses reflects the status of the people living there. 這裡真是欣賞原住民藝術品最好的地點 , 你可以從房子上的裝飾看出屋主在部落裡的社會地位 。


"Slate Lane," is a local street/alley known for its slate houses.  Building this type of house would require a lot of patience. 岩板巷的石板屋很有名 。  蓋這種房子一定需要很大的耐心。


View from the other side of the village. 部落另外一邊的風景 。


Shenshan Village is south of Wutai Village.  It's a lot noisier than Wutai Village, primarily because most tourists stop in Shenshan for food and drinks.  The local 7-11 (yes, Wutai has a 7-11) is also located there. 神山部落位於霧台村的南部 。  神山部落比較熱鬧,因為大部分的觀光客停在那裏找喝的吃的 ,  霧台的7-11也在那裡 。

We walked from Wutai to Shenshan.  Walking down was easy, but walking back was hard. 我們從霧台散步到神山 。  走下去沒問題 , 可是走回來很累 !


Barbecue, stir fried instant noodles, two types of aboriginal wraps, coffee and other drinks.  The wraps are usually millet and pork wrapped inside an edible leaf, though there are variations on this theme. 烤肉 、 炒泡麵 、兩種吉拿富 、 咖啡還有其他飲料 。  吉拿富通常是豬肉跟小米包在可以吃的假酸漿葉子裡 。

Not far away tourists were lining up for millet donuts.  When we later told the owner of our homestay about this she thought it was hilarious.  According to her all of those donuts are from the same factory outside the township. 離攤子不遠,很多人為了小米甜甜圈排隊 ,  我們晚一點回去民宿以後跟老闆講甜甜圈的盛況 , 她覺得很好笑 。


Back in Wutai Village.  These statues are in the plaza. 回到霧台村 , 這些雕像在廣場裡 。


Wall decoration. 牆壁的裝飾 。


The most famous of the local churches, on a ridge above the elementary school. 這個地區最有名的教堂 , 它在國小旁邊的山坡上 。


A statue in front of the village chief's house.  These statues are a common feature of aboriginal villages. 頭目家前面的雕像 。  原住民部落裡都有這種標示身分的雕像。

So, was Wutai worth the effort it took to get there?  I would say yes, but guys on LOUD motorcycles detract from the peaceful setting.  Wutai, I'm sad to say, is a favored destination among people who like to race cars and motorcycles up mountain roads, and their comings and goings disturb what would otherwise be a very tranquil place. 所以呢 ?  霧台值得去嗎 ?  我覺得霧台很值得去 。 可是重機的噪音真是影響及破壞這個地區平靜, 很可惜 ! 那麼多人喜歡在山路上飆汽車或是重機 , 他們的引擎聲破壞了山區的寧靜 。

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