Jinlun 金崙 (Taitung 台東)

If you were in Taipei and you wanted to go to Jinlun, it'd take you about 5 hours on the express train.  You'd pass through Yilan, Hualien and most of Taitung County on your way there.  The scenery would be excellent. 從台北坐自強號到金崙要5小時左右 ， 一路上會經過宜蘭 、花蓮跟大部分的台東縣 ， 景色優美。

If you were in Kaohsiung and you wanted to go to Jinlun, it'd take you about 2.5 hours by car.  On your way you'd pass through the tunnel between Pingtung and Taitung counties, and once you arrived in Daren Township, on the other side of this tunnel, you'd see a green valley stretching to the sea. 從高雄開車到金崙要2.5小時 ，路上會經過連接屏東縣與台東縣的隧道 ，  來到隧道另外一邊的達仁鄉時，你會看到綠油油的山谷綿延至海洋 。

If you were in Taitung City and you wanted to go to Jinlun, it'd take you about 2.5 hours by bike.  You could take either Highway 9 or Highway 11 south out of the city. 從台東市區騎單車到金崙要2.5小時 ， 你可以往南走台9線或台11線到達這裡。

If you were in Central Taimali and you wanted to go to Jinlun, it'd take you about 2.5 hours on foot.  On your way you'd pass by a famous beef noodle restaurant, and further on you'd pass by an archaeological site near the ocean. 從太麻里市區走路到金崙要2.5小時 。 路上會經過有名的牛肉麵餐廳 ， 再往南走會經過一處靠近海邊的遺址 。

If you were in Pingtung City and you wanted to go to Jinlun, it'd take you about 1.5 hours on the express train.  You'd pass through Chaozhou, Linbian and Fangliao on the way.  Somewhere on the other side of Fangshan the mango trees would give way to forests, and in the middle of the island, between two of the tunnels, you'd see a wide river snaking between the mountains. 從屏東市坐自強號到金崙要1.5小時 。 路上會經過潮州 、 林邊跟枋寮 。  經過枋寮之後，枋山的芒果園一望無際地延伸融入島中央的森林 。 在兩個隧道中間，你會看到寬廣的河川彎彎曲曲的從山谷流往大海。 

If you were in Yilan City and you wanted to go to Jinlun, it'd take you almost 6 hours by car.  You'd probably enjoy this drive as far south as the Hualien County line, but on the Hualien side, north of Hualien City, you'd find the road conditions bad and other drivers a source of worry. 從宜蘭市開車到金崙要差不多6小時 。  你應該會很享受由北往南到花蓮縣界的旅程， 可是再往南到花蓮市北邊的路上就會感受到路況很差 ， 而且其他駕駛的開車習慣也很危險 。

If you were in Central Dawu and you wanted to go to Jinlun, it'd take you an hour by bike.  There aren't many steep hills between the two places, and the views of the coast along your route would be nice. 從大武市區騎單車到金崙要一小時左右 。 一路上的陡坡少， 風景也很美。

If you were in Daxi and you wanted to go to Jinlun, it'd take you about 2 hours on foot.  You'd want to carry an umbrella, or wear enough clothes to protect yourself from the sun.  It would be a long, hot walk. 從大溪走路到金崙要兩個小時 。 出發前要記得帶雨傘或穿多一點衣服防曬 ，  那條路線會很熱 。

If you were a kid in Jinlun you'd read about Taipei in your social studies textbook.  You'd probably wonder about things like the Taipei 101 or the MRT.  You might wonder why anyone would want to live in a place so crowded and expensive. 金崙的小學生在社會課中都會認識台北 ， 應該會對台北101跟台北捷運很好奇 ， 可能懷疑過為什麼那麼多人想居住在那麼吵鬧和貴的地方。

If you were an adult in Jinlun, you'd have been to Kaohsiung at least once.  You'd probably also have family members who work there, in Tainan, or in one of Pingtung's industrial areas.  You'd probably see these family members on extended holidays, and they'd tell you about their lives in the big city. 金崙的成年人應該都去過高雄 ， 大概有家人在高雄 、 台南或屏東的工業區上班 。  這些住在外縣市的家人，應該都會在連假回來的時候告訴你他們在大城市裡的生活。

If you're living in Jinlun you've been to Taitung City.  It's only a few stops away on the train line, and not even that far by car.  Maybe you like it, maybe you don't. 金崙人應該都去過台東市區 ，  台東市離金崙只是幾站的距離而已 ， 開車也不遠 。  金崙人對台東市的印象應該是好壞參半。

If you're living in Jinlun you've definitely been to Central Taimali.  This is where the closest PX Mart is. 如果你住在金崙，那你一定去過太麻里市區， 那裏有最近的全聯 。

Clouded leopards probably aren't in Jinlun, and may have never existed there.  Some like to think that clouded leopards still live deep in the mountains of south and east Taiwan, but there's not much evidence one way or the other. 雲豹大概不住在金崙 ， 也有可能從來就沒有雲豹在這個地區 。  有人喜歡相信台灣東南部的深山裡還有雲豹 ， 只是目前為止還沒有證據證明哪種說法是真的 。

If you're a Paiwan or Rukai person living in Jinlun, you might have been to Pingtung to celebrate a local tribal festival.  There are a lot of Paiwan people living between south Taitung and south Pingtung, with pockets of Rukai scattered between them. 居住在金崙的排灣和魯凱族人大概參加過屏東縣舉辦的原住民活動 。  台東南部和 屏東南部有很多的排灣族人， 這裡也有幾個魯凱部落。

If you are this carving you have never left Jinlun.  Places like Yilan City, Central Dawu and even Daxi are a mystery to you.  Not that carvings ever wonder about other places, or do much aside from hang on walls. 如果你是這個木雕，你一定沒有離開過金崙 ，  宜蘭 、大武市區和大溪對你來說也很神秘!  還好 ! 木雕不會考慮其他地方 ， 它只會掛在牆壁上 。

I came back from Jinlun the other day, and after I returned someone said, "Jinlun?  That's far!" 我最近去過金崙 ， 有人知道後跟我說: "金崙很遠 "。

But is it?  Like anywhere, it depends on where you're coming from, and maybe also on where you're going. 真的嗎 ?  看從哪裡過去 ， 也看你要去哪裡。

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The Jerben (Zhiben) Hot Spring Area 知本溫泉區 (Taitung 台東)

The Jerben Hot Spring Area is in Beinan Township, Taitung County.  It's about 25 minutes from downtown Taitung. 知本溫泉區位於台東縣卑南鄉 ， 離台東市區25分鐘 。

I've been visiting this hot spring area for over a decade.  It's definitely not my favorite hot spring area, but at this point in my life it's like an old, old friend.  Every time I drive through it I get caught up in memories of long-gone people, places and things. 我來這個溫泉區泡湯已經超過十年的時間 。  知本溫泉區不是我最喜歡的溫泉區 ， 可是我對它的感情就像是對一位老朋友一樣 。  我每次去到那裏就想起很久以前的事情 。

This is the Hotel Royal (Chihpen).  It's on the hill above the hot spring area.  This is the hot spring you'll want to visit if you're looking for "fancy."  It's the most expensive of the local hot springs. 這是知本老爺大飯店 ， 它位在溫泉區山坡上 ，  想去設備比較高級的溫泉的遊客一定要來這裡 ，它是知本溫泉區內最貴的 。

This is the view from the temple next to the Hotel Royal.  That's the Jerben ("Zhiben") River in the center of the picture, with A-Ya-Wang Hot Spring's red roof visible at the bottom of the hill. 這是老爺旁廟宇前面的風景 。 在照片中間的是知本溪 ， ㄚ一ㄚ旺的紅色屋頂在山坡下 。

I don't like it as much now, but A-Ya-Wang used to be my "go-to" in Jerben.  Back then it was cheap and never crowded. 我現在沒那麼喜愛ㄚ一ㄚ旺 。  我以前最喜歡ㄚ一ㄚ旺的原因是它便宜又不擁擠。

A view of the same temple.  That's the Hotel Royal behind the trees to the right. 同一所廟 ， 老爺在右邊的樹後面 。

These are the hot spring pools at A-Ya-Wang, a hot spring that has been "under construction" for as long as I can remember. ㄚ一ㄚ旺的溫泉池 ，  這個地方一直都在施工中，已經十幾年的時間了。

There's a cute fish pond on the other side of the pools. 溫泉池另外一邊有可愛的魚池 。

And this is the Jerben river from the other side of the fish pond. 魚池另外一邊看到的知本溪 。

This is further up the road that passes through the hot spring area.  That building to the right is part of the Jerben Forest Recreation Area. 經過溫泉區再進去一點 ， 右邊的建築是知本森林遊樂區的一部分 。

I have a love-hate relationship with the Forest Recreation Area.  It can be a nice place for a walk, offering scenic views of the river valley, yet it's also the abode of monkeys and various stinging insects.  I recommend visiting in the winter. 森林遊樂區讓我又愛又恨的 :  在這裡散步和欣賞溪谷的風景很好玩 ， 可是它卻有很多猴子和螫人的昆蟲在裡面 。  我覺得冬天去比較好 。

This store is across the river from the Forest Recreation Area.  It's been here forever.  Hot spring eggs are available at the far end of the building. 這家店在森林遊樂區對面，歷史悠久，  它後方在賣溫泉蛋 。

I don't know if this peak has a name, but it looks EVIL and I like it.  There's a turnoff near here with more views of the river. 我不知道這座山坡有沒有名字 ，  我很喜歡它的 "惡魔存在" 感 。  這裡還有一段小路可以看風景 。

This is closer to the entrance to the hot spring area.  That big brown building across the river is Fuye Hot Spring Hotel. 比較靠近溫泉區的入口 。 溪另外一邊咖啡色的建築是富野溫泉休閒會館 。

This is one of two bridges connecting the two sides of the hot spring area.  The Journey to the East Hot Spring is nearby. 連接溫泉區的兩岸有兩座橋 ， 這是其中一座 ，  這座橋靠近東遊季 。

There used to be a 7-11 on the other end of this bridge, in the brown building near the center of the picture.  I was surprised to learn it had closed down. 以前這座橋另外一邊的那棟咖啡色建築物裡有一家7-11 ， 我很驚訝地發現那家7-11不見了 。

There's a nice park at the north end of the bridge. 橋的北邊有座好看的公園 。

This is a vacant lot across from Hot Spring Elementary School.  I couldn't tell you why, but I find this piece of land somewhat hypnotic.  Beyond those trees is the Jerben Forest Trail, which once stretched all the way over the mountains into Wutai in Pingtung County.  Last I heard the middle section is closed to hikers. 這是溫泉國小對面的空地 。  我不知道為什麼 ， 我很喜歡看著這塊空地 。  那些樹後方是曾經連接台東卑南鄉和屏東縣霧台鄉的知本林道 ，我聽說步道的中段現在禁止進入 。

This field is just across from the Journey to the East Hot Spring.  Again, many memories.  We hosted a couple English summer camps here, and yes, the mosquitoes were intense. 這是東遊季前面的草地。 我有很多這裡的回憶， 我們以前在這裡舉辦過二次英語寒假活動 ， 我記得那時候蚊子超多 。

The Journey to the East Hot Spring was a terrible place to go when the Mainland Chinese tourists were still visiting.  I can remember some of them taking off their shoes and washing their feet in the pools, and sometimes you'd even see them strip down to their underwear and sit in the pools without taking a shower first.  在中國團客到臺灣旅遊的時期，東遊季真不是個好的休閒區，因為有些中國遊客會在溫泉池脫鞋洗腳， 甚至沒沖洗就穿內衣褲下水。

This is near the entrance to the hot spring area.  There are slightly cheaper hot spring tickets available in a couple stores on this road.  There aren't so many touts here now, undoubtedly due to a downturn in traffic through the area. 靠近溫泉區的入口 。  在路上的商店可以買到比較便宜的溫泉卷 ，  現在不像以前有那麼多人在賣溫泉卷 ，應該是來客數沒那麼多。

I cornered this toad in my school.  I tried to interview him about his feelings regarding the Jerben Hot Spring Area, but he refused to answer my questions.  Toads are known for their rudeness. 我在學校碰到了這隻蟾蜍 ，  我想訪問牠關於溫泉區的意見 ， 但牠都不理我 ，  蟾蜍是有名的沒有禮貌 !

This is still further down the Jerben River, not far from the local 7-11.  I'd avoid the Jerben Hot Spring area on big holiday weekends, but during other times it's still well worth a visit. 順著知本溪往東邊一點 ， 靠近這地區的7-11。   我會避開連假和節日來這裡， 其他時間來這裡玩很不錯 。

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1. In fairness to the Mainland Chinese tourists, there were several "waves" of them during Ma Ying-jeou's presidency.  The earliest to arrive were fine, but by the time we'd worked our way down several tiers we were dealing with people who obviously had little knowledge of how to conduct themselves abroad.