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2024年12月8日 星期日

The Jerben (Zhiben) Hot Spring Area 知本溫泉區 (Taitung 台東)


The Jerben Hot Spring Area is in Beinan Township, Taitung County.  It's about 25 minutes from downtown Taitung. 知本溫泉區位於台東縣卑南鄉 , 離台東市區25分鐘 。

I've been visiting this hot spring area for over a decade.  It's definitely not my favorite hot spring area, but at this point in my life it's like an old, old friend.  Every time I drive through it I get caught up in memories of long-gone people, places and things. 我來這個溫泉區泡湯已經超過十年的時間 。  知本溫泉區不是我最喜歡的溫泉區 , 可是我對它的感情就像是對一位老朋友一樣 。  我每次去到那裏就想起很久以前的事情 。


This is the Hotel Royal (Chihpen).  It's on the hill above the hot spring area.  This is the hot spring you'll want to visit if you're looking for "fancy."  It's the most expensive of the local hot springs. 這是知本老爺大飯店 , 它位在溫泉區山坡上 ,  想去設備比較高級的溫泉的遊客一定要來這裡 ,它是知本溫泉區內最貴的 。


This is the view from the temple next to the Hotel Royal.  That's the Jerben ("Zhiben") River in the center of the picture, with A-Ya-Wang Hot Spring's red roof visible at the bottom of the hill. 這是老爺旁廟宇前面的風景 。 在照片中間的是知本溪 , ㄚ一ㄚ旺的紅色屋頂在山坡下 。

I don't like it as much now, but A-Ya-Wang used to be my "go-to" in Jerben.  Back then it was cheap and never crowded. 我現在沒那麼喜愛ㄚ一ㄚ旺 。  我以前最喜歡ㄚ一ㄚ旺的原因是它便宜又不擁擠。


A view of the same temple.  That's the Hotel Royal behind the trees to the right. 同一所廟 , 老爺在右邊的樹後面 。


These are the hot spring pools at A-Ya-Wang, a hot spring that has been "under construction" for as long as I can remember. ㄚ一ㄚ旺的溫泉池 ,  這個地方一直都在施工中,已經十幾年的時間了。


There's a cute fish pond on the other side of the pools. 溫泉池另外一邊有可愛的魚池 。


And this is the Jerben river from the other side of the fish pond. 魚池另外一邊看到的知本溪 。


This is further up the road that passes through the hot spring area.  That building to the right is part of the Jerben Forest Recreation Area. 經過溫泉區再進去一點 , 右邊的建築是知本森林遊樂區的一部分 。

I have a love-hate relationship with the Forest Recreation Area.  It can be a nice place for a walk, offering scenic views of the river valley, yet it's also the abode of monkeys and various stinging insects.  I recommend visiting in the winter. 森林遊樂區讓我又愛又恨的 :  在這裡散步和欣賞溪谷的風景很好玩 , 可是它卻有很多猴子和螫人的昆蟲在裡面 。  我覺得冬天去比較好 。


This store is across the river from the Forest Recreation Area.  It's been here forever.  Hot spring eggs are available at the far end of the building. 這家店在森林遊樂區對面,歷史悠久,  它後方在賣溫泉蛋 。


I don't know if this peak has a name, but it looks EVIL and I like it.  There's a turnoff near here with more views of the river. 我不知道這座山坡有沒有名字 ,  我很喜歡它的 "惡魔存在" 感 。  這裡還有一段小路可以看風景 。


This is closer to the entrance to the hot spring area.  That big brown building across the river is Fuye Hot Spring Hotel. 比較靠近溫泉區的入口 。 溪另外一邊咖啡色的建築是富野溫泉休閒會館 。


This is one of two bridges connecting the two sides of the hot spring area.  The Journey to the East Hot Spring is nearby. 連接溫泉區的兩岸有兩座橋 , 這是其中一座 ,  這座橋靠近東遊季

There used to be a 7-11 on the other end of this bridge, in the brown building near the center of the picture.  I was surprised to learn it had closed down. 以前這座橋另外一邊的那棟咖啡色建築物裡有一家7-11 , 我很驚訝地發現那家7-11不見了 。


There's a nice park at the north end of the bridge. 橋的北邊有座好看的公園 。


This is a vacant lot across from Hot Spring Elementary School.  I couldn't tell you why, but I find this piece of land somewhat hypnotic.  Beyond those trees is the Jerben Forest Trail, which once stretched all the way over the mountains into Wutai in Pingtung County.  Last I heard the middle section is closed to hikers. 這是溫泉國小對面的空地 。  我不知道為什麼 , 我很喜歡看著這塊空地 。  那些樹後方是曾經連接台東卑南鄉屏東縣霧台鄉知本林道 ,我聽說步道的中段現在禁止進入 。


This field is just across from the Journey to the East Hot Spring.  Again, many memories.  We hosted a couple English summer camps here, and yes, the mosquitoes were intense. 這是東遊季前面的草地。 我有很多這裡的回憶, 我們以前在這裡舉辦過二次英語寒假活動 , 我記得那時候蚊子超多 。

The Journey to the East Hot Spring was a terrible place to go when the Mainland Chinese tourists were still visiting.  I can remember some of them taking off their shoes and washing their feet in the pools, and sometimes you'd even see them strip down to their underwear and sit in the pools without taking a shower first.  在中國團客到臺灣旅遊的時期,東遊季真不是個好的休閒區,因為有些中國遊客會在溫泉池脫鞋洗腳, 甚至沒沖洗就穿內衣褲下水。


This is near the entrance to the hot spring area.  There are slightly cheaper hot spring tickets available in a couple stores on this road.  There aren't so many touts here now, undoubtedly due to a downturn in traffic through the area. 靠近溫泉區的入口 。  在路上的商店可以買到比較便宜的溫泉卷 ,  現在不像以前有那麼多人在賣溫泉卷 ,應該是來客數沒那麼多。


I cornered this toad in my school.  I tried to interview him about his feelings regarding the Jerben Hot Spring Area, but he refused to answer my questions.  Toads are known for their rudeness. 我在學校碰到了這隻蟾蜍 ,  我想訪問牠關於溫泉區的意見 , 但牠都不理我 ,  蟾蜍是有名的沒有禮貌 !


This is still further down the Jerben River, not far from the local 7-11.  I'd avoid the Jerben Hot Spring area on big holiday weekends, but during other times it's still well worth a visit. 順著知本溪往東邊一點 , 靠近這地區的7-11。   我會避開連假和節日來這裡, 其他時間來這裡玩很不錯 。

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1. In fairness to the Mainland Chinese tourists, there were several "waves" of them during Ma Ying-jeou's presidency.  The earliest to arrive were fine, but by the time we'd worked our way down several tiers we were dealing with people who obviously had little knowledge of how to conduct themselves abroad.

2024年9月15日 星期日

Knowing and Not Knowing Where I'm Going


Let me see... which route to take today?  Some days it depends on whether I want breakfast or not, other days it depends on how much of a hurry I'm in.

I could go down Mahengheng Boulevard and turn right onto Highway 11.  No breakfast restaurants on that route.  I'd be taking Highway 11 down to Jerben, to the big intersection in front of the Jerben Police Station, and turning right up the hill to my school.  Google Maps tells me this is the fastest route, but I hate driving the stretch of road near Taitung University.

I spell it "Jerben" by the way.  Some people spell it "Zhiben" or even "Zhirben," but I prefer "Jerben" because that's how 知本 sounds to me.  ㄓ, ㄅ and ㄣ, yeah, that's how I spell it.

...but maybe I want McDonald's.  McDonald's means I'll have to drive downtown, take Chuanguang Road from my apartment building, and then take a left on Xinsheng Road.  I can actually get to the Junghua Road McDonald's faster, but I don't bother with that one because the left turn into their parking lot is difficult.

From McDonald's I'd take Xinsheng Road down to Boai Road, Boai Road to the vegetable market, and from there I'd take a right onto Junghua Road, braving its many traffic lights and scooter riders until it joins the highway on the other side of town.  On the other side of town this is the same route I would've taken from Mahengheng.

How would one translate "Mahengheng," by the way?  "Horse Prosperous Prosperous?"  Or does "Mahengheng" represent a word from one of the local aboriginal languages?  Maybe Puyuma or Amis?  I suppose the answer is online somewhere, but I'm too lazy to look it up.

...or maybe I don't want breakfast today, and maybe I'm tired of all the lights and trucks along Highway 11.  Maybe I want to go in the other direction, along the mountains behind RT Mart.

In such an instance Google Maps will tell me to take Highway 9 all the way to Jerben, to the other 7-11 on the hill in the town of the same name.  From there I'd take a right into the Hot Spring Area.  

This route, for me, is almost as stressful as taking Highway 11, given that both routes pass through high traffic areas and have a lot of lights.  I've seen my share of near-accidents on both routes, the chief offenders being trucks with a fondness for tailgating.

Taiping Village is just off the Highway 9 route.  Taiping Village is an odd little area.  I haven't visited in a while, but I bet there are a lot of new houses in that village.  Not long ago a foreign friend told me he'd moved up there.  I suppose the houses in Taiping are cheaper that what you'd find downtown.  

Is Taiping Village named after the river?  Or is the river named after the village?  Or are both named after something else?

But wait.  Where are my keys?  Oh, there they are.

Routes?  Oh yeah, I was talking about the various ways I go to work.  I also forgot to add that there's a way to circumvent most of the traffic on the RT Mart route.  

If I follow Jungxing ("Zhongxing?") Road down to the bridge over the Taiping River, I can take a right onto a new road that goes all the way up to Taiping Village.  But instead of going all the way to Taiping, I take a left onto a smaller bridge over the river, and this bridge leads me to another, even newer road that joings Highway 9 well past the RT Mart.  This route, I've found, is by far the least stressful way to drive to my school.

Oh, look at the time.  I'd better get going.

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