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2026年5月16日 星期六

Central Dawu 大武鄉 (Taitung 台東)


Central Dawu (or the town of Dawu) is in Dawu Township, about an hour south of Taitung City.  It's on the Southern Cross-Island Highway, and is one of the last stops on the way to the tunnel which passes between Taitung and Pingtung counties. 大武鄉大武市區離台東市開車約一小時。  大武位在南迴公路上 , 靠近台東屏東中間的隧道 。

A lot of people drive through it, but few bother to stop.  It doesn't figure big in terms of Taitung's top tourist sites, though it does have some redeeming features. 很多人開車經過大武,卻不一定會在這裡停留。  這裡沒有台東最熱鬧的景點 , 但卻有著自己的特色 。


We parked in front of Dawu Junior High School, and walked from Highway 9 into town.  Across from Dawu Elementary there's a car graveyard where we found this jeep. 我們把車停在大武國中前, 從台9線走路進大武市區 。  這是大武國小對面的汽車墳場裡的吉普車 。


Further up the same road is a better view of the hills around town. 同一條路再進去一點的山景更好 。


There wasn't much going on at the Dawu Train Station.  I'm thinking most of the cars in the background were parked there by local people on their way to work.  There isn't much work in Dawu, but it's close enough to both the west coast and Taitung City for a commute like that to be feasible. 大武車站附近很安靜 ,  留在停車場的車應該是大武居民為了通勤停放在那裏的 。  大武的工作機會少 , 從這裡坐火車去台東市或西部上下班應該可以 。


This wood was probably washed onto local beaches by typhoons.  Dawu has been on the wrong end of many typhoons, and often sets records for high temperatures. 這堆木頭大概是被之前的颱風沖到附近沙灘的 ,  有時候颱風對大武造成很大的影響, 大武也常有創紀錄的高溫。


If it's not too hot a walk along the Dawu River is nice.  In July or August I'd probably avoid this place. 天氣比較涼快的時候在大武溪散步不錯 , 但是七、八月的時候我不會去 。


A look back at the north half of Dawu from the river trail.  Up in those hills/mountains is the village of Xinhua.  I highly recommend a visit to Xinhua if you're driving a reliable car or scooter. 從大武溪岸的河堤便道看北大武村 。  新化部落在山丘上 ,  新化部落很有趣 , 但是去之前一定要先確認機車或汽車的狀況良好才安全 。

The road to Xinhua, by the way, loops all the way back to Tuban and Daxi to the north.  It's a beautiful drive, but not for the faint of heart. 順帶一提, 往新化的路繞了一個大圈 , 途中會經過北邊的土坂大溪 ,  風景很美 , 可是路況不佳 。


This is the Dawu River.  Most of the year it's very calm, though I've seen it terrifyingly full after typhoons. 這是大武溪 ,大部分的時間它溪床上的水不高,  但颱風經過的時候,水位會高到嚇人 。

It's not easy to get to, but if you travel up this river valley you'll find the eastern end of the Jinshuiying Historic Trail, which stretches between Pingtung and Taitung.  I walked that trail with several elementary school students years ago, and the trip took around six hours.  Some of the scenery near the middle of the trail is stunning. 這裡不好找 , 如果你沿著這個溪谷往上,你會來到連接東和台東浸水營古道的東端 。  我幾年前跟一群國小生走過這個古道,我們走了六個小時 ,  古道上沿途看到的風景美不勝收。


Across the Dawu Bridge lies this coffee shop/restaurant.  It's new.  The latte I had here was very good, though I didn't try the food.  Be warned: it's not cheap. 大武橋上的這家咖啡館 ( 餐廳 )是新的 ,  他們的拿鐵好喝 , 但我沒吃過他們的料理 。  注意 : 這家不便宜 。


The southern half of Dawu, separated from the northern half by the Dawu River, is much quieter.  To the left is the Dawu Homestay, which I believe is also new. 大武溪大武市區隔成兩半 , 南邊的一半更是寧靜 。  左邊比較新的建築是大武民宿

Dawu has its own development association, and they're working hard to create more tourist spots in the area. 大武有自己的發展協會,他們很努力地推薦新的景點和發掘觀光亮點。


The temple to the left is in the center of town.  The buses into and out of Dawu make a surprising number of stops, visiting many of the mountain villages between Taitung City and Shangwu, further south. 左邊的廟宇在大武市區中心,  經過大武的公車會停靠很多地方, 這些停靠站是台東市尚武中間的村落。


This is just off Highway 9.  Much of the coastline around Dawu is undeveloped.  I hope it stays that way. 在台9線旁邊 。  大武的海岸大部分沒有當地人的商業行為 , 我希望它一直保持這個樣子就好 。


Tourists sometimes stop at the Dawu Seashore Park ("Dawu Coast Park"), north of the fire station.  It's oppressively hot here in the summer (zero shade), but in the fall and spring it's not bad. 遊客會停靠大武消防局北邊的海濱公園 ,  但是這裡夏天的時候超熱 , 春天和秋天的時候才比較涼一點。


This lego bridge in front of the Seashore Park.  It's the most recognizable thing in town.  There's a rainbow building across from it which predates the bridge's paint job. 樂高橋位於海濱公園前面 , 是容易被記住的景點 。  橋對面還有彩虹的建築 , 以前那座建築是大武最有名的景點 。

I should add that the Dawu Seaview Trail lies on the ridge in the background.  I skipped that trail this time, but there are pictures of it in The New Da Niao Bridge to "Downtown" Dawu 新大鳥橋到大武市區 entry.  The trail is a short and the scenery isn't particularly good. 補充一下, 大武觀海步道在背景的山嶺上 。  我這一次沒有走步道 , 可是新大鳥橋到大武市區的文章裡有照片 ,  步道很短 , 風景沒有特別好 。


The view south from the lego bridge.  To the right is the rainbow building mentioned above, and to the left, across the road, is the fire station. 在樂高橋上往南邊看的風景 , 前面是提到的彩虹建築 , 在左邊的是消防局 。


We had lunch at the Jiajiajiou Book House.  This place offers indigenous-Taiwanese fusion cuisine.  Their menu is as exotic as you're likely to find in Dawu.  The proprietors are very hospitable, and they do a lot for their local community. 我們在家家酒書房吃午餐 , 他們的料理是原住民 - 台式的 , 這應該是大武最特別的菜單。  老闆很親切 , 也努力的為社區做好的事。

This place doubles as an after school center for local students.  The first and second floors are full of books.  They also run a store on Dawu Street which sells locally made goods. 這個地方也是社區的課後學習中心 , 一 、 二樓都充滿書本 ,  他們在大武街上也開了一家地區特產店 。


Lastly there's this aborted attempt at a temple, which has looked like this for as long as I can remember.  Not sure why anyone thought this was a good spot for a temple, but at least it's weird? 最後有這間還沒完工的廟宇 , 它已經20多年來都沒變吧 !  在這場地蓋廟不是很奇怪嗎 ?

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2025年12月20日 星期六

Guangfu and Wanrong Townships, Hualien County 花蓮縣光復跟萬榮鄉


I did what I could.  As most readers are aware, the flood in Guangfu caused a lot of property damage, and many residents of that township lost their lives in the flooding.  Driving through the area is far from convenient even now, and I wasn't about to damage a rented scooter (or myself) on narrow, muddy roads. 我盡力了!  大部分的讀者應該知道發生在光復的水災,很多地方被破壞了 , 也有很多人喪失生命。  目前光復有的地方的路況還很差 , 我也不願意冒著危險把租的機車騎上有泥土的鄉路 。


Guangfu is north of Ruisui, and Wanrong is west of both Ruisui and Guangfu.  According to the last census, 12,493 people live in Guangfu, and 6,282 people live in Wanrong. 光復位於瑞穗北部 , 萬榮位於光復瑞穗西部 。 上次光復的人口統計是12,493人, 萬榮的人口是6,282人 。

From the south, the easiest way to get to Guangfu is to take a train to Ruisui, rent a scooter, and drive the rest of the way there.  It's a very beautiful drive, but with so much traffic diverted onto Highway 193 it's a little dangerous. 從南邊去光復,最簡單的方法是坐火車到瑞穗 , 然後在瑞穗租機車騎去光復 。  193線風景很美 , 可是最近台9線不通車 ,所以193線車變多了 , 有點危險 。

The picture above was taken just over the township line from Ruisui.  Those mountains in the distance, part of Taiwan's Central Mountain Range, are in Wanrong. 上面的照片是剛過瑞穗鄉界的時候拍的 , 遠處的山是中央山脈, 也是萬榮的一部分。


Our original destination was the Wanrong Train Station, but on the other side of Central Guangfu Highway 193 became impractical.  Instead we headed west to the Guangfu Train Station, a place that's been on the news a lot lately. 我們原來的目的地是萬榮車站 , 只是光復市區另外一邊的193線不好騎 , 所以改變計畫去最近常出現在新聞中的光復車站

Why didn't we just take the train to Guangfu?  Only the slower trains stop there, and from Taitung City that trip would have taken forever. 我們為什麼沒有直接坐火車到光復呢 ?  因為我們出發的時間只有區間車停靠光復 , 我們不想花那麼長的時間坐車。


Thanks to the efforts of countless volunteers and emergency service personnel Central Guangfu looks, for the most part, like it always did, but a lot of the businesses here still haven't reopened.  The 7-11, Family Mart and Zhengyi Variety Store were all in operation during our visit, but we had a hard time finding open restaurants. 因為很多民眾的努力 , 現在光復市區恢復得跟淹水之前差不多,  只是還有很多店沒開 ,  7-11 、全家 和正一百貨等開了, 可是找餐廳內用吃飯很困難 。


This is the Guangfu River, a tributary of the Mataian River featured on the news.  Both rivers are very gentle now, but the mountain lake in nearby Wanrong remains a potential hazard.  Should it flood again, Central Guangfu will still be in danger. 這是光復溪( 馬太鞍溪的支流) 。  現在兩條溪的水量沒那麼多, 可是萬榮鄉的堰塞湖還存在 , 這個地區不知道還會不會有安全問題 。


A little further east, on the road that leads to Fengbin on the other side of the Coastal Mountain Range, is another tributary of the Mataian River.  Weirdly enough, flooding doesn't seem to have been a problem here. 往東,往豐濱的路上、海岸山脈的另外一邊,這是馬太鞍溪另一支流 ,  好像這裡沒有淹水的問題。


Turning back onto Highway 193, we entered an area which was spared the worst of nature's wrath.  This land is at a slightly higher elevation than Central Guangfu. 再回到193線,我們進入比較沒有受颱風影響的地區,  這個地區的地形比光復市區還高 。


Along our route we found this "coffee shop," which sits on top of a swamp.  I don't know if it even has a name.  If you can endure the mosquitoes, the owner's DIY constructions make for an interesting place to sit. 我們順路在這家濕地上的 "咖啡廳"休息 。  它有名字嗎 ?  我不知道 ,  能忍受蚊子的人可以去欣賞他們的DIY建築。


Across the road from the same location.  The Coastal Mountain Range is in the background. 馬路的另外一邊, 背景是海岸山脈


Never underestimate the uses to which a can of Taiwan Beer can be put. 台啤的用途很多 。


Another river south of the "coffee shop."  Many of these rivers/creeks don't seem to have names. "咖啡廳" 另外一邊的其他河川 。  這附近的河川好像沒有名稱 。


The same spot, looking east. 同一個地點 、不同的方向 。


We stopped at the Danongdafu Forest Park on the way back to Ruisui but... it wasn't open?  At least I don't think it was open.  The visitor's center definitely wasn't open. 我們回去瑞穗的路上停了大農大富平地森林園區 , 好像沒有開 ,  我猜沒有開 ,  我確定遊客中心沒有開 。


This is somewhere closer to Ruisui.  Again, those mountains are all in Wanrong. 更靠近瑞穗 , 你看到的山在萬榮 。


After returning to Ruisui we ventured into the Ruisui Hot Spring Area, which has been mentioned here several times already.  The funny thing is that the most famous hot spring, the Ruisui Mountain Village Hot Spring, isn't actually in Ruisui, but rather in Wanrong. 回到瑞穗之後我們去溫泉區 。  我已經提過這個溫泉多次 ,  奇怪的是這裡最有名的瑞穗溫泉山莊居然不在瑞穗 , 它位於萬榮鄉 。

This is the view from there.  That ridge in the distance is where most of the tea in Ruisui is grown. 這是溫泉山莊的景色 ,  遠處的山嶺是瑞穗種茶的地區。


It'll cost you 250 for a soak.  It's somewhat decrepit now, but the view from this hot spring is excellent. 一張票要250元 。  這個溫泉山莊很老舊 , 可是它的風景是最好的 。


And this is the road leading to the hot spring.  It's very steep, so be careful if you're visiting. 這是上去瑞穗溫泉山莊的路 ,  這條路很陡 , 上去要小心 。

...but where, you ask, is the old sugar refinery in Guangfu?  The most historic building in the area?  I'll try to revisit another day, when the local roads are in better shape. 可是光復最有名的花蓮觀光糖廠 呢?  路況變好的時候我再去看看 !

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2025年11月29日 星期六

Luanshan Village 鸞山村 (Taitung 台東)


Luanshan Village is on Highway 197, not far from Taitung City. 鸞山村位於197公路,離台東市不遠。


This is the view east of Luanshan as you're coming from Liji.  That's the Beinan River in the center of the picture.  Behind it is the Meinong Terrace, and behind that is the Central Mountain Range.照片中間的河流是卑南溪,這是你從利吉過來時會看到的鸞山東邊的景色,卑南溪後方是美濃高台,再往後是中央山脈


As you approach Luanshan from the east there's an old, unused spot for visitors to soak their feet in a local hot spring.  The red dragonflies around here are very cute. 當你從東邊來鸞山,會看到一個老舊荒廢的溫泉泡腳池,那裏有許多可愛的紅蜻蜓


Still further up is this temple.  Most (all?) of the people living in Luanshan are members of the Bunun Tribe, so I assume this temple is more for people living closer to Liji. 再往上走看到的一座小廟。大部分的鸞山居民是布農族,所以我猜想這座小廟應該主要是為了利吉的居民建造的。


The view from the same spot.  There are a fair number of monkeys in this area. 在同一個地點的景色,那裏有許多的猴子。


A little further up the road is this waterfall.  Tour groups sometimes stop here. 不遠處還有一個瀑布,團客有時候在這裡停留。


Higher up. 更高處。


Even higher up.  If you're biking this stretch be careful. 再往高處走,如果你是騎腳踏車,這裡要非常小心。


Near the top you'll find this seasonal pond.  During the drier parts of the year it disappears altogether.  There's a monastery above the pond, but this monastery isn't that impressive.靠近山頂的小池塘,乾季時枯涸。上方也有一座小佛寺(堂)。


This gentleman guards one of the entrances to the village.這位勇士守護著村落的一個路口。


And this gentleman (?) is further down the road.  A wedding was on that day. 另外一個路口的勇士。當天有婚禮。


Hard to tell if this is a landslide or just land being cleared for cultivation. 不確定是土石流還是農作的需要才變成這樣。


County Highway 40 branches off from 197 further west.  Highway 40 goes DEEP into the mountains, eventually turning into County Highway 23. 從197公路分出去的縣公路40。公路40更深入山區,之後成為公路23


The view from Highway 40 above the village. 村子上方的公路40


That's the west face of Dulan Mountain in the background. 背景是都蘭山的西面。


An abandoned orchard. 沒有人照顧的果園。


That's Luye's "Highland" (Gaotai) in the middle distance, where the hot air balloon festival is held every year. 前方看到鹿野高台,也就是每年舉辦熱氣球季的地方。


Luanshan Lake is nearby.  Half of this lake is pretty, while the other half is the abode of angry dogs. 鸞山湖。一邊的湖很漂亮,另一邊的湖有許多凶猛的狗。


To the west of Luanshan is the Luye section of the Beinan River, which passes through on its way to Taitung City.鸞山的西面是鹿野段的卑南河,它流經許多地方去到台東市


Mountains, so many mountains.  It's easy to get lost in them, but getting lost can be fun. 許許多多的山! 在山裡很容易迷失方向,但是迷路也是有趣的經驗。

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NOTE: Luanshan Village 村 isn't quite the same thing as Luanshan "Village" 部落 .  Luanshan "Village" 部落 is the residential area around the highest part of Highway 197, while the village 村 encompasses a much larger area.