2025年1月4日 星期六

Zhuoxi Township, Hualien County 花蓮縣卓溪鄉


Zhuoxi is northwest of Fuli.  It's a big, mountainous area with a small population.  About a third of Jade Mountain National Park lies within Zhuoxi, and the most easily accessible entrance to this national park is also in the township. 卓溪位於富里的西北部 ,  這裡地大人稀 。卓溪就佔了玉山國家公園面積的三分之一 ,最方便進入國家公園的入口也在這裡。

According to the last census, 6,045 people live in Zhuoxi. 上次的人口統計顯示卓溪的人口是6,045人 。


As you enter Zhuoxi from Yuli Municipality, the first village you'll encounter is Zhuole.  Most of the people living here are members of the Bunun Tribe.  This Catholic church is next to the highway, near the entrance to their village. 從玉里鎮進入卓溪,首先到達的地方是卓樂部落 。  這個部落大部分的居民是布農族, 部落的入口處附近就看到這座公路旁的天主教堂。


This is a statue of Bunun braves during a communal gathering.  It's behind the church. 這是布農族勇士 。 在教堂後面 。


This is the other end of town. 部落的另外一邊 。


This is a mural inside Zhuole Elementary School. 卓樂國小裡面的壁畫 。


Further west into the mountains, down Highway 30 (a.k.a. the Yuchang Highway), you'll find the Nan-an Visitor's Center.  I've been here more times than I can remember.  I recommend visiting when the sun is out if you can.  It's twice as scenic on sunny days. 繼續往西走台30線 (玉長公路) ,你會來到南安遊客中心 。  我已經去過好幾次 ,  天氣好的時候來風景會更美麗 。


There's a small interpretive center inside, which introduces local wildlife, the Batongguan Trail, and aspects of local aboriginal culture. 遊客中心裡面有介紹當地區野生動物、 八通關古道 , 還有原住民文化的展覽 。 (1)


I once slept inside this type of stone house in Pingtung.  When the wind blows through them they can be very, very cold. 我在屏東睡過這種石板屋 , 風大吹過石縫的時候會很冷 。


This stone dates back to 1921, and was moved here from another location.  It originally marked the beginning of the Batongguan Trail. 這個石碑是1921年刻立的 , 它原本立在八通關古道的起點 。


This field is in front of the Nan-an Visitor's Center.  Rice is a big crop in Zhuoxi and surrounding areas. 南安遊客中心對面的稻田 。  米是花東縱谷重要的農產品 。


Still further into the mountains the road rises up to meet the Batongguan Trailhead, about 3 KM from the Nan-an Visitor's Center.  This is the Zhuole River. 開車從南安遊客中心往山裡面約三公里左右,到了八通關古道東段登山口 , 照片中是卓樂溪 。


The Nan-an Waterfall is on the same route. 路上經過南安瀑布 。




This is near the end of the road.  The damage done to this area by recent typhoons is obvious.  It will take nature a while to recover. 公路終點附近 。  最近的颱風對這裡的破壞很明顯 , 大自然要修復仍需要一段時間 。


This is the view from the Batongguan Trailhead and the end of Highway 30.  It's still a very beautiful area. 台30線終點 , 八通關登山步道的風景 。  這個地區還是很美 !


And this is what the Batongguan Trailhead looks like now: "Under Repair, Please Do Not Enter."  And yet I did see people entering by crawling under the fence.  I wouldn't care as much if they were truly doing so at their own risk, but local first responders often have to go in and rescue such people, however heedless of warnings they might be. 這是八通關登山口的景象 : "施工中 , 請勿進入" ,  可是我看到遊客偷偷的進去 。  如果只是他們自己有生命危險,那我才不管, 可是通常是消防員或警察要冒險去救這種沒有公德心的人,真是令人氣憤 !

The Batongguan Trail itself, once repairs are completed, will be worth a visit.  I've been up there a few times, and the scenery gets better and better in that direction. 八通關古道施工完之後會是一個值得去的景點 。  越往裡面走的風景越美麗 。

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NOTE: I wouldn't take that map at the top too seriously.  It was published in 2021, and there have been several typhoons and an economic downturn since then.  In aboriginal areas the "workshops" don't tend to last very long anyway.

1. Batongguan Ancient Trail or Walami Trail?  The Walami Trail is the Hualien section of the Batongguan Ancient Trail, which stretches all the way over the mountains to Zhushan in Nantou.  This trail dates back to the Qing Dynasty and has a very interesting history.

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