2020年12月3日 星期四

Walking Around Liuqiu Township 走路一日環島琉球鄉

It was a dark, dark day on Xiaoliuqiu, so please be aware that the places pictured below are twice as scenic when the sun is out.  When we visited there were less tourists, but I couldn't help but feel a little sad at the absence of blue sky and blue water. 我們在小琉球那天雲層很厚.  因此請你知道, 太陽出來的時候, 小琉球的風景會比照片上的美上二倍不止.  我們在那裡的時候觀光客不多, 但是沒有藍天和藍色的海的小琉球讓我有一點失望.

Xiaoliuqiu is off the coast of Donggang, so close that you can see it from the ferry terminal on a clear day.  The ferry ride from Donggang to Xiaoliuqiu takes about thirty minutes, and ferries leave for most of the day. 小琉球位於東港南部.  晴天的時候可以從東港的港口看到小琉球.  從東港坐船到小琉球要30分鐘, 白天都有船可以坐.

If you're visiting Xiaoliuqiu, be aware that people scalp ferry tickets near the ferry terminal in Donggang.  Buying from (and perhaps even bargaining with) one of these scalpers can save you money. 要去小琉球的讀者應該知道, 東港漁港附近有人在路邊賣船票.  從他們手上買票比較便宜(應該可以跟他們講價吧.).  

At 6.8 square kilometres, Liuqiu Township is both one of the smallest townships in Pingtung and also one of the most densely populated.  According to the last census, 12,117 people live there. 6.8平方公里的小琉球是屏東縣最小鄉鎮中的其中一個, 也是人口密度最高的.  上次的人口統計顯示小琉球的人口是12,117人.

After arriving at Baisha Sightseeing Port, we decided to walk around the island.  We'd checked a map beforehand, and knew that Xiaoliuqiu is about 12 km around.  The picture above was taken in "downtown" Xiaoliuqiu, an area adjacent to the port.  We started our big walk there. 我們到白沙觀光港之後決定走路環島.  我們出發前參考了地圖, 知道環島的路線差不多12公里.  上面的照片是在觀光港附近的市區拍的.  我們從那邊開始走.

Baisha Sightseeing Port is one of two ports on the island.  Most residents arrive at another, less scenic port southeast of here. 白沙觀光港是小琉球兩個港口的其中一個.  大部分的居民使用東南邊風景沒那麼好的港口. (1)

From the port, we walked clockwise around Xiaoliuqiu.  Vase Rock, undoubtedly the most photographed spot on Xiaoliuqiu, was our first stop. 從港口開始, 我們順時針環島, 第一站就是被成千上萬的人拍過的花瓶石.

From Vase Walk it's a short trek to The Beauty's Cave, a scenic area that charges an entrance fee.  Be sure to buy the pass for all of the scenic areas at the first place you visit.  It'll save you money. 美人洞離花瓶石很近.  這個風景區要買門票.  在第一個參觀的風景區買套票比較好.  比較划算.

One thing I dislike about Xiaoliuqiu is the fact that swimming is difficult there.  The reefs encircling the island are very close to the shore, and even though diving spots are plentiful it's not a convenient place to swim. 我不喜歡小琉球的部分是游泳不方便.  環繞島嶼的珊瑚礁很靠近陸地.  對潛水來說是很好的事, 但對游泳來說不太好.

South of The Beauty's Cave is the Shan Fu Ecological Corridor.  From here a walkway leads through an old fort to a view of the coast. 美人洞南邊有杉福生態廊道.  在這裡可以走步道進去停用的軍事基地, 從基地的另外一邊可以看海景.

South of the Shan Fu Ecological Corridor is Shan Fu Port.  I could be wrong, but this sleepy little port might be the best place for swimming. 杉福生態廊道南部有杉福漁港.  我認為這應該是最好的游泳地點, 但可能我是錯的. 

Further south is Boar's Channel.  In my opinion this is the prettiest of the scenic areas. 在往南邊是山豬溝.  我覺得這是小琉球風景最好的地點.

South of Wu Shui Gou is Ha Ban (Ge Ban) Beach, a very famous spot.  Unfortunately for us it was closed for renovation. 位於五水溝南邊是很有名的蛤板灣.  可惜我們在那裡的時候在整修.

Near the southern end of the island is Wu Guei Gave.  The caves around here made me very claustrophobic, but the viewing areas next to the ocean are nice. 靠近島嶼最南端的是烏鬼洞.  在小洞穴裡走動讓我很緊張, 可是坐在海邊的觀景台上很舒服.

On the other side of the island are the Hou Shr Reefs.  This is the least developed part of Xiaoliuqiu, and it's a good place to admire the view. 島嶼的另外一邊有厚石群礁.  這個地區沒有那麼多觀光設施, 但是個欣賞風景的好地方.

After that?  We walked onward, onward, ever onward.  We walked our weary way north to Baisha Sightseeing Port.  The scooters began to crowd around us like a swarm of angry bees, and I could think of nothing better than sitting down, somewhere quiet, and having a beer. 在厚石群礁之後呢?  我們繼續走.  我們走到北邊白沙觀光港.  我們越靠近白沙, 路上的摩托車越多.  像一群蜜蜂一樣那麼吵鬧.  快完成環島的時候, 我很想坐在一個安靜的地方喝啤酒.

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1. There's actually a third tiny port at the other end of the island, but when we walked through there weren't any boats there.