The Chinese below was taken from "A New Appreciation of Fishing" 漁樂新視界. The Chinese was written by 光啟社 and the English was written/translated by me. There will be four of these entries, covering the ports in Pingtung County.
Fishy Things to Do on Xiaoliuqiu (1)
小琉球, 位於高屏溪口的西南方, 距離屏東縣東港鎮約14公里, 屬於一個珍貴的珊瑚礁島嶼, 由於不受東北幾集季風的影響, 因此一年四季的氣候都相當溫暖宜人. Xiaoliuqiu is located to the southeast of where the Kaoping River meets the sea. It's 14 km from Donggang Municipality, in Pingtung County. This beautiful coral island lies beyond the reach of the northeastern monsoon winds, and the climate is very warm and pleasant year-round.
這裡的海水清澈見底, 並發展出各項精采的親海旅程, 你可以到潮間帶認識多樣精采的動植物種, 或是搭乘半潛艇觀光船, 從水面上到水面下, 欣賞不同的海底世界, 小琉球的美麗值得大家前來探掘它迷人的魔力. The ocean here is crystal clear, and there are many ways in which to explore it. You can delve into the intertidal zone and learn about many species of animals and plants, or you can board a glass-bottomed boat and enjoy the underwater world beneath you. The beauty of Xiaoliuqiu entices everyone to come and enjoy it.
How to go?
到小琉球需至東港搭乘船班, 每班船的航行時間約30分鐘就可以到達, 由於有分公營和民營兩種, 開始時間有所不同, 因此, 詳細的船班資訊可以到 (小琉球觀光旅遊資訊網) 查詢. To get to Xiaoliuqiu you need to take a ferry from Donggang. The ferry trip takes about 30 minutes. Because there are both public and private ferries the departure time varies, and for exact departure times you should consult the Xiaoliuqui Tourism Information Network. (2)
Memories in the Making
白沙觀光港 Bai Sha Sightseeing Port
白沙觀光港為遊客進出之主要港口, 緊鄰海岸線優美的中澳沙灘, 深具遊憩價值, 港區內還提供海上環島船以及海底半潛艇, 給遊客多樣化的環島新選擇. Bai Sha Sightseeing Port is the main point of entry for tourists. It's close to the beautiful coastline and is indispensable to visitors. At the port you can embark on tours around the island, and ride on glass-bottomed boats. [This port] gives tourists new ways to experience Xiaoliuqiu. (3)
三鬼傳奇 The Legend of the "Three Ghosts"
三鬼不是鬼, 而是小琉球最具特色的指標喔! 包括當地時常捕獲的魚種 "鬼頭刀", 生長在珊瑚礁細砂間俗稱 "土鬼" 的雲雀殼菜蛤, 以及位於小琉球西南處的 "烏鬼洞", 合稱三鬼傳奇是新鮮海產與歷史文化結合的在地特色! The "three ghosts" are not really ghosts, but rather three things always associated with Xiaoliuqiu. These three things are the mahi-mahi which are often caught there, a type of mussel known as the "dirt ghost," which grows in fine grained sand near coral reefs, and Wu Guei Cave, which is located on the southwest coast of the island. Together these three "ghosts" combine seafood, history and culture to give the island its unique character! (4)
蛤板灣 Ha Ban Bay
小琉球當地居民又稱這裡為 "威尼斯沙灘". 屬於堆積地形的貝殼砂沙灘, 白淨的沙灘, 碧藍的海水, 非常適合浮潛, 戲水及潮間帶活動, 遊客也可在此近距離欣賞各式美麗貝殼和浪漫星砂. People on Xiaoliuqiu call this place "Venice Beach." This beach is shaped like a clam shell, has white sand, and the turquoise waters off the beach are great for snorkeling, swimming and other aquatic activities. Tourists can also enjoy the shells and sparkling sand there. (7)
美人洞風景區 The Beauty's Cave Scenic Area
美人洞位於小琉球西北角, 從這裡的制高點望海一看, 還可以發現沙瑪基外海的箱網養殖, 美景不在話下, 風景區內計有十三景, 各有千秋, 獨具天然風趣, 值得遊客細細玩賞. The Beauty's Cave is located at the northwest corner of Xiaoliuqiu. If you look down at the sea from the highest point there, you can see the nets used to raise fish off the coast. The scenery is beautiful beyond words, and this scenic area has 13 scenic spots in total. Each scenic spot has its own merits and natural beauty. It's a place worth investigating in detail.
杉福生態廊道 Shan Fu Ecological Corridor
杉福生態廊道位於小琉球西岸的杉福漁港北側, 由廢棄的軍事基地改建而成, 漫步於此就能欣賞小琉球當地魚類的石雕圖像及軍事砲台遺跡. 走出步道, 迎面而來的是美麗的山海景色, 自然景觀美不勝收. The Shan Fu Ecological Corridor is located near the north side of Shan Fu Fishing Port, on the west coast of the island. It was converted from an abandoned military base, and those strolling through this area can enjoy the stone fish carvings and the old gun emplacements [preserved there]. A walk along the trail reveals a beautiful view of both the mountains and the sea, and the wonder of the natural setting might just leave you speechless.
厚石群礁 The Hou Shr Reefs
這裡的沿岸是綿延不絕的珊瑚裙礁, 在裙礁內則是大片平坦的海蝕平台, 怪石嶙峋, 與其他景點的景觀截然不同. 在這裡你可以發現許多有趣的巨石, 如觀音岩, 爬山虎岩, 山豬岩, 紅番岩, 老鷹岩等, 考驗你的眼力, 看看可以找到幾顆? The coastline here is an endless expanse of coral reefs. Within the reefs are large platforms from which to view the eroding coastline. This strange, rocky place offers an experience very different from other scenic spots. In this place you can discover many interesting giant rocks, including Kuanyin Rock, Japanese Ivy Rock, Boar Rock, Red "Fan" Rock, Eagle Rock and many others. Test your eyes and see how many strange rocks you can find! (8)
蜂巢蝦 Bee's Nest Shrimp
人氣強強滾的小琉球必點美食就是這一道, 裹粉酥炸的去殼蝦條, 軟嫩適中, 怡到好處, 上面類似蜂巢狀的東西則是利用鴨蛋加麵粉的蛋液下去炸的, 來回甩蛋液的技術需要功夫才可以完成, 口感與層次在這道菜當中可以完全展現出來. This is the delicacy that EVERYONE visiting Xiaoliuqiu should try. The shrimp are shelled, coated with batter, and fried until they are very tender and delicious. The honeycomb-like coating around them is made by frying duck egg yolk with flour. The technique of tossing the duck egg yolk back and forth takes time to perfect, but it contributes a lot to the both the taste and layering of this dish. (5)
魷魚小封肉 Squid and Pork
魷魚小封肉又叫 "魷香紅麴東坡肉", 是一道非常道地的鄉土料理, 可是小琉球人, 家家戶戶都會做的一道菜, 非常下飯的古早味, 這道菜最特別的是利用厚切的魷魚塊下去滷製, 吃起來口口滿足, 自然的Q嫩口感, 和著三層肉油脂一起化開, 是所有遊客吃過後, 相當讚賞的一道菜色. This squid and pork dish is also called "savory squid and red yeast Dong Po Pork." It is a very "local" dish, that every family on Xiaoliuqiu cooks and enjoys. It has a very traditional flavor, and the most unique thing about it is the thick cuts of squid, marinated in a [special] sauce. It has an exceptionally satisfying taste, is very tender, and is cooked in three layers of [pork] fat. It's a dish that all tourists come to appreciate. (6)
Related Entries 相關的文章:
1. "Xiaoliuqiu" or "Lamay Island?" Honestly I'd prefer "Lamay Island," "Little Ryukyu" or even "Shiao Liou Chiou" to the unpronounceable "Xiaoliuqiu," which non-Chinese speakers are probably going to get wrong anyway. BUT "Xiaoliuqiu" (sometimes abbreviated as "XLQ") seems to be winning the Chinese-English Spelling War, and far be it from me to force my preferred spellings on others.
2. The ferry schedule's in the left sidebar of this site. Public and private ferries leave every half hour between 7 am and 6 pm. On all but the foggiest days you can see the island from the ferry terminal.
3. After you arrive expect to be besieged by people trying to rent you a scooter.
4. I'm translating 鬼 (guei) as "ghost" here, though in many contexts I feel "devil" is more appropriate. "Devil" does a better job of describing the naughty/mischievous aspect of these spirits. The mahi-mahi 鬼頭刀, "dirt ghost" and cave described above all have 鬼 in their names, thus the "three ghosts."
5. I can't eat shrimp anyway, but this sounds incredibly nauseating regardless. Actually good? Or something that people convince themselves into liking? Whichever the case, while we were there we couldn't find a single place selling this dish.
6. Also sounds nauseating, but I have no problem with either pork or squid so maybe I'll try it sometime. But again, couldn't find any restaurants selling it.
7. When I visited last week Ha Ban Bay was closed for renovation.
8. It looks a lot like Jialeshui in Manjhou Township.