2020年10月30日 星期五

恆春漁樂線 Fishy Things to Do in Hengchun


The Chinese below was taken from "A New Appreciation of Fishing" 漁樂新視界.  The Chinese was written by 光啟社 and the English was written/translated by me.  There will be four of these entries, covering the ports in Pingtung County.


恆春漁樂線
Fishy Things to Do in Hengchun (1)

恆春位於屏東縣恆春半島南端, 是台灣最南端的鄉鎮, 也是台灣 "兩隻腳" 的所在地, 由於這裡氣候暖, 四季如春, 因而稱為 "恆春".  這裡是台灣海峽, 巴士海峽, 太平洋等海域的匯集之處, 漁業資源相當豐富. Hengchun is located at the southern tip of Pingtung's [part of the] Hengchun Peninsula.  It is the southernmost municipality in Taiwan, and also where Taiwan's "little feet" are to be found.  The weather here is warm, and resembles spring year-round.  For this reason it was named "Perpetual Spring" (Hengchun).  It is a place where the Taiwan Strait, the Bashi Channel and the Pacific Ocean meet.  Its fisheries are exceptionally productive.

恆春地區屬於熱帶性氣候, 濱海地區蘊藏著豐富的珊瑚地形, 漁業資源充足, 生物多樣性高, 海洋休閒體驗可是在恆春處處都可以看見喔!  你可以縱身跳入海裡欣賞精彩的海底世界, 如果不想弄濕身體, 半潛艇一樣可以滿足好奇的你, 或是來到港邊, 大快朵頤便宜又好吃的海產, 生魚片, 保證讓你物超所值! The Hengchun area enjoys a tropical climate, and the coastline is both rich in coral and an excellent source of fish.  There are many species to be found here, and ocean-based leisure activities can be engaged in all over Hengchun.  You can jump right into the ocean, and enjoy a colorful underwater world.  If you don't want to get wet however, you can either hop on a glass-bottomed boat or visit a local port, where you can enjoy quality seafood and sashimi for a reasonable price.  You're guaranteed to get a good deal!


How to go?

如果是從西半部下恆春的朋友, 可以利用國道三號下南州交流道, 順著指標直走到墾丁, 也可以從國道一號走到底, 接台17線往墾丁.  如果是從東半部下恆春的朋友, 可以沿台9線至達仁右轉續行前往楓港, 再由楓港南循台26線一路南下, 即可抵達恆春. Friends traveling south to Hengchun on the west coast can use the Formosa Freeway (#3), and exit using the Nanjhou exit.  You then follow the signs toward Kenting.  You can also follow Highway 17 from the end of the Jung Shan Freeway (#1), and from there head toward Kenting.  If you are travelling to Hengchun from the east coast, you can follow Highway 9 (the Southern Cross-Island Highway) from Daren, and from there drive to Fenggang, where this road leads south to Highway 26.  This [route] also leads to Hengchun.(2)


精彩樂活
Memories in the Making

國立海洋生物博物館 The National Museum of Marine Biology and Aquarium

想要認識 "海洋", 來到這裡準沒錯!  博物館共分為台灣水域館, 珊瑚王國館及世界水域館等三個展示館, 結合了教育, 學術, 保育層面, 更整合了社區性, 娛樂性, 國際性等全方位的領域, 不管是大朋友小朋友, 都能用最自然輕鬆的方式, 真正認識海洋的奧秘. Anyone wanting to learn about the ocean should come here!  The aquarium is divided into three exhibition halls, which are: the Taiwan Waters Hall, the Coral Kingdom and the Waters of the World Hall.  This aquarium integrates education, academic study and conservation.  It also brings together communities, entertainment, internationalism and many other things.  It doesn't matter whether you're young or old, you can come here and absorb real knowledge of ocean mysteries with very little effort. (3)


萬里桐 Wan Li Tong

電影海角七號阿嘉坐在海邊的地方就是萬里桐喔!  萬里桐位於石珠和蟳廣嘴之間的小村落, 海面十公尺以下可看到海中石洞, 石穴, 拱門等多變的地形景觀, 多樣的生態環境成為墾丁國家公園境內潛水的熱門地點. The stretch  of coastline where A-jia sits in the movie Cape No. 7 is Wan Li Tong!  Wan Li Tong is a small village located between Shr Ju and Shun Guang Dzuei.  Just ten meters from shore you can see a varied underwater topography which includes caves, depressions and arches.  This diverse ecological environment has become a popular diving spot in Kenting National Park. (4)


白沙灣 White Sands Bay

白沙灣是由海洋生物殼體所組成的貝殼沙灘, 沙粒均勻, 晶瑩明亮, 全年都適合游泳, 潛水帆船, 騎水上摩托車等海上活動.  陸上則可烤肉, 露營, 在自行車步道上享受騎車建行的樂趣, 秋冬時節可看夕陽沈入海中, 夜晚也是觀星的好去處. White Sands Bay is a beach composed of crushed shell.  The sand is bright and evenly distributed, and suitable for swimming, diving, kayaking, riding jet skis and other ocean-based activities year-round.  On the beach you can barbecue, camp, and enjoy local bike trails.  In the fall and winter evenings you can watch the sun descend into the ocean, and at night you can gaze at the stars. (5)


紅柴坑 Hong Chai Keng

紅柴坑位於恆春半島西海岸, 這裡蘊藏各式各樣的珊瑚, 五顏六色的熱帶魚以及千變萬化的海底地形, 景觀非常豐富; 這裡還有提供生態觀察的 "海底觀光綺玻璃半潛艇", 讓遊客盡情欣賞其麗的海底世界. Hong Chai Keng is located on the west coast of the Hengchun Peninsula.  Every type of coral is to be found here, as is every color of tropical fish, and a continually changing underwater topography.  The area is rich in biodiversity, and while there visiting tourists should take a trip on a glass-bottomed boat so they can enjoy the underwater world beneath them.


後壁湖遊艇碼頭 Hou Bi Hu Yacht Wharf

後壁湖遊艇碼頭是台灣地區頗具規模的遊艇碼頭, 也為恆春半島上最大的漁港, 多數玩家會在此搭乖海底觀光半潛艇或從事潛水, 海釣等多項海上活動, 已成為墾丁著名的地標, 來到這裡立刻可以聞到渡假的氣息. Hou Bi Hu Yacht Wharf is a large-scale yacht wharf.  It's also the biggest fishing port on the Hengchun Peninsula.  Many tourists board glass-bottom boats, dive, fish or engage in other activities here.  It has already become an important destination in Kenting, and visiting this place always feels like being on vacation.


後壁湖海洋資源保護示範區 Hou Bi Hu Ocean Resource Protected Viewing Area

位於南灣與貓鼻頭兩地間的巴士海峽內, 2005年成立, 總面積約180公頃.  該海域為保護生物多樣性而建立的保護區, 並以海膽的保護為起始, 而後擴及至所有海洋生物的全面保護.  Located on the Bashi Channel between Nanwan and Mao Bi Tou, the [Hou Bi Hu Ocean Resource Protected Viewing Area] was established in 2005.  It covers about 180 hectares, and this area was created to protect the area's biodiversity.  Conservation efforts began with sea urchins, and were later expanded to include all marine life in that area.


船帆石 Chuan Fan Rock (6)

由墾丁街向南行的途中就會看到, 蔚藍的海面上聳立了一顆高約18公尺, 形似帆船的巨大珊瑚石, 這就是 "船帆石".  此海域聚集了豐富的生物資源, 也是當地浮潛與獨木丹的活動地點. As you travel south from Kenting's "Big Street," you'll see an 18 meter-tall coral stone standing above the azure sea.  This is "Chuan Fan Rock."  The fisheries in this area are rich, and it's also a site for snorkeling and kayaking.


後壁湖漁港鮮魚區 Hou Bi Hu Fishing Port's Fresh Seafood Zone

來到墾丁要去哪裡吃便宜又好吃的海鮮呢?  推薦大家可以到後壁湖漁港報到喔!  在區漁會樓下, 有一排整齊畫一的 "鮮魚區" , 各式海產料理與生魚片, 琳琅滿目.  另外, 如果是飛魚季節的話 (4-7月) , 那更不能錯過飛魚的美味! Where can [visitors] to Kenting get cheap and delicious seafood?  Everyone should report to the Hou Bi Hu Fresh Seafood Zone, located just below the local fishing association's headquarters.  There is a neatly designated "fresh fish zone," which offers every kind of seafood and sashimi.  If it's flying fish season (April to July), you won't be able to pass up the great taste of flying fish!

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1. A lot of people get Hengchun and Kenting confused.  Kenting National Park is inside Hengchun Municipality and Manjhou Township.  Hengchun is the southernmost municipality in Taiwan.  Kenting National Park itself is composed of several differently designated areas at the southern end of the Hengchun Peninsula, which extends from (roughly) Fangliao and Taimali townships to the southern tip of the island.  Kenting's "Big Street" (the street with the night market) is located in Kenting National Park, but when many people refer to a place as "being in Kenting" they actually mean Hengchun, not Kenting.

2. As said elsewhere, taking Freeway #1 all the way south to where it meets Highway 17 can lead you into some hellish traffic.  I'm not sure why they suddenly decided to include people from the east coast in this section, but in case anyone in Hualien or Taitung is driving this route, you can also turn off Highway 9 (i.e. the Southern Cross-Island Highway) at the border between Taitung and Pingtung counties.  This leads you to Route 199, which leads into Mudan Township, and from there to Highway 26.  It's usually slower, but on big holiday weekends (when traffic is backing up on Highways 1, 9 and 26), it's sometimes faster.

3. Unlike many other places introduced in these "Fishy Things to Do" entries, the aquarium in Hengchun is truly worth visiting.  I've been to aquariums in several countries, and the aquarium in Hengchun ranks near the top.  If you visit, just be sure to see the whole aquarium.  There are other exhibits in the back that are often overlooked.

4. ...as if anyone knows where those two other places are.  It's a weird way to describe the location of this place.  As you travel south on Highway 26 you take a left into Hai Kou 海口, and this takes you down the Checheng Oceanside Highway 車城濱海景觀公路, which turns into County Road 153.  From there it's a straight shot south past the aquarium to Wan Li Tong.  The drive is pleasant, but be warned that parking a car in many of these areas is a challenge.

5. Just prepare yourself for CROWDS.  It's a nice beach, but it's also super well known and super popular.  Oh, and fuck people who ride jet skis.  They're loud, they destroy the environment, and if you ask me they should be illegal everywhere.

6. "Chuan Fan Rock" could be translated as "Sailboat Rock."

Tastes


The taste of bad coffee.  Very sweet, and made from instant coffee powder.  The lady who runs the restaurant hands it over in small mugs, and then gives us plastic sleeves of creamer as if we hadn't just watched her mix the whole thing together.  We don't mind that it's bad coffee, because we knew it would be bad before we bought it.  And anyways the view across the road, into the greener parts of Manjhou, is beautiful.  It's a pleasant summer day, we've been driving around for hours, and the lady who made the coffee is telling us where kids around there go to school.

The taste of corn.  So much corn in all this food.  It's in everything except the bread.  We hadn't meant to come here.  We were looking for another place, a place nearby.  The woman behind the counter is very concerned about whether or not we enjoyed the food.  My wife politely tells her that there's too much corn in everything, and that Italian food shouldn't have so much corn.  At least the bread was good.  We look out the window, at the road into Pingtung City, and feel that we've paid too much for too little.  So.  Much.  Corn.

The taste of good pizza.  Sitting inside a too-warm restaurant, wanting a beer, but my wife is too tired to drive home after lunch.  One of my daughters is there, and there's a three-legged cat lying under a nearby table.  I try to be friendly with the owner, but he's a very shy person and evades most of my questions.  Outside, beyond a quiet park, the old Hengchun city wall absorbs heat from the sun.  Ah, a beer.  My kingdom for a beer.

The taste of a too-big bowl of noodles with peanut sauce.  The owner/cook sits at a table behind us.  He's talking to his grandson in Taiwanese.  His grandson does his best to respond in the same language, but he's obviously more comfortable with Mandarin.  The boy and his father have come over from Kaohsiung, a considerable distance from Gao Shu.

The taste of McDonald's.  Not great, but not terrible.  Sometimes you just have to drive up to Chaojhou and have McDonald's.  Sometimes you have to do it.  I wolf down my burger and fries like someone breaking a fast, while everyone in line stares at the American in the corner.  I wash the burger and fries down with a Coke.  I haven't had Coke in so long.

The taste of British beer.  Somehow they had the Hobgoblin IPA at the 7-11 in Fenggang, and I bought their entire stock.  I drink the cans over the course of a weekend, and when I finish the last of the cans I feel very sad.  Surely it's better NOT to have access to beer that good all the time.  Surely it's better to do without.  And yet, while visiting other 7-11s, I always look for that beer, hoping it will appear.

Ten thousand farms to raise the ten thousand chickens, ten thousand pigs and ten thousand fish.  Ten thousand other farms to grow the pineapples, mangoes and wax apples.  Ten thousand trucks to bring in all the bad coffee, excellent beer, and whatever it is that McDonald's can be accused of making.  Ten thousand cooks to cook the food, and ten thousand people to sell it.  Ten thousand people, like me, eating the food, eating and remembering places they've been, and drinking and singing songs too loud in the street.

And behind every dish a place, and in every place a thing happening.  Who's to say whether the memories come from the food, or the food from the memories?

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2020年10月22日 星期四

Pingtung in the News 屏東的新聞 (Central 中) 1


There are 29 townships, 3 municipalities and one city in Pingtung County.  It's exhausting to include news from every township, municipality and Pingtung City every time, so what I'll do instead is include news items from eleven different townships or municipalities in each entry.  This way I should be able to work my way through Pingtung County every three entries. 屏東縣包含了29個鄉, 3個鎮還有屏東市.  每次討論所有鄉鎮的新聞太累了, 所以我會每次討論11個鄉鎮的報告.  這樣子我每三篇新聞文章就會涵蓋到全縣內鄉鎮的新聞.


1. Majia Township 瑪家鄉

Two illegal houses were demolished in Majia Township.  The houses had a great significance for the local Rukai community, and aboriginal residents there showed up to protest the demolition.  Police removed several protesters from the scene, and one protester even attempted to set himself on fire. 屏東禮納里違建順利折除  20多抗議族人被抬離2人激動送醫

I'm still not sure what the "Slow City Alliance" does exactly, but the Majia Township Magistrate joined their yearly meeting. 台灣慢城聯盟年會  竹田 , 瑪家力拚入列

400 archers convened in Majia Township for a traditional archery competition. 400名射手集合  瑪家鄉傳統弓箭全國邀請賽今熱鬧登場


2. Wandan Township 萬丹鄉

Villagers in Wandan are protesting a proposed duck farm.  The proposed duck farm would exceed regulations pertaining to the size of such facilities and the number of ducks one can raise there.  A local representative stated that the duck farm hasn't been approved yet. 萬丹抗議建養鴨場  屏縣府 : 尚未核准

There are a lot of construction projects underway in Pingtung, most of which have to do with improving the local water supply.  These construction projects often result in traffic delays, and Wandan residents are blaming these delays on a lack of oversight with regard to the many companies in charge of these projects. 萬丹自來水埋管封路不斷  民眾抱怨施工草率

Wandan's Red Bean Festival was cancelled recently.  The Township Office claims this festival was cancelled to prevent the possible spread of COVID, but many suspect corruption is to blame. 防疫 ? 涉弊 ? 萬丹紅豆節今年停辦 (1)


3. Wanluan Township 萬巒鄉

Cheng De Community in Wanluan will be selling beauty products made from lemons. 香檬美麗變身  屏縣萬巒鄉成德社區發表農村保養品 (2)

Wanluan's Cocoa Bean Festival and Pig Feet Festival will be held this weekend. 萬巒好吃又好玩  24日可可節 , 豬腳節 (3)

A woman in Wanluan reached the age of 105.  Her relatives are encouraging her to take it easy. 萬巒105歲瑞賴李賢妹  四代同堂享天倫


4. Taiwu Township 泰武鄉

Traditional Paiwan carvings were displayed in Kaohsiung recently, and residents of Taiwu Township were in attendance there. 作能量原源不斷  屏東俖排灣  "原雕之美" 在駁二亮相 (3部影片)

The Pingtung County Government's Bureau of Cultural Affairs organizes many activities for tourists each year.  One such activity introduced tourists to historic churches along Pingtung's scenic Mountainside Highway.  One of the churches visited was a church in Taiwu Township. 社造走讀 "心" 體驗  感受專屬屏東的文化魅力 (4)

This news goes all the way back to August.  A rockslide blocked County Road 106 through Taiwu Township.  This is not surprising given its location. 巨石坍塌導致泰武鄉道路中斷  道路封鎖中


5. Chaojhou Municipality 潮州鎮

Chaojhou is getting A LOT of money to build an international-grade ice rink there.  They hope to host international competitions in the venue.  Who thought this was a good use of public funds? 斥資3.7億於屏東潮州打造國際賽事規格滑輪流冰場 (5)

Construction of the ice rink has already commenced to the west of Chaojhou's Exercise Park.  Long ago a lot of old military equipment was installed in that area, and local officials are hoping the new ice rink will draw tourists to the military equipment on display there. 國際級流冰場今動工  一旁退役軍備仍在潮州公園生鏽斑駁

Banners designed by the Chaojhou Municipality Office for Double Ten Day caught the eye of both locals and visitors during the holiday.  The Municipality Office will donate these banners to people for use as souvenirs. 國慶旗幟太漂亮  潮州鎮公所邀民眾捐款收藏


6. Xinyuan Township 新園鄉

Pingtung has been experiencing a water shortage for a while now.  Xinyuan recently went without water for a day. 屏東沿海新園鄉以南今夜停水1天  近6萬戶受影響

About a month ago the Xinyuan Township Office paid its respects to officers serving in that area. 屏東縣新園鄉公所敬軍  慰訪駐軍官兵

A fire broke out on the bed of the Kaoping River between Linyuan District in Kaohsiung City and Xinyuan Township in Pingtung County.  The area is near a protected black-faced spoonbill habitat. 高屏溪河床火警燃燒達百公尺  黑面琵鷺棲地無損


7. Kanding Township 崁頂鄉

A farmer in Kanding won first place in a national rice competition, and was even crowned "Rice King." 2020年度台灣好米米王  屏東崁頂鄉顏仙水奪冠

A truck struck a height restriction pole beneath a bridge in Kanding.  The driver had a lot of trouble getting assistance afterward, primarily due to the remoteness of the location. 悲催小貨車  撞斷偏僻路段 "限高架" 動彈不得一下午 (6)

A temple in Kanding had many leaves and twigs to dispose of after regular groundskeeping.  Previously the local government had collected the leaves and twigs without charge, but this year it demanded a fee for the service.  A local resident suggested that those responsible might be discriminating against the temple because it is a Taoist temple, and not a Buddhist one.  The local authorities denied this, claiming fees are imposed only when yard waste exceeds a certain amount. 清運樹枝要不要收費 ?  清潔隊 : 關鍵在數量


8. Laiyi Township 來義鄉

A man drowned while rivertracing in Laiyi.  He was later discovered in the pool beneath the Longxue Waterfall. 屏東來義鄉龍穴瀑布溯溪意外  一人溺斃

Aboriginal residents of Laiyi raised Taiwan's national flag during the Double Ten holiday, and reminisced over their time in the military. 來義南和軍人  "茁壯團隊" 發起國慶升旗遊行族人超感動

Chang Geng Hospital in Kaohsiung opened a special outpatient clinic in Laiyi to combat hepatitis C. 屏東來義鄉抗C肝  高雄長庚進駐開特別門診


9. Donggang Municipality 東港鎮

Jinsha Municipality in Jinmen and Donggang Municipality have been "sister townships" for 46 years.  A delegation from Donggang Municipality recently visited Jinsha to reaffirm this relationship. 姊妹鄉鎮締結46年  東港來訪金沙

A "famous tourist" parked his car in a private underground parking lot in Donggang, and was threatened with an iron rod.  Local police were called in, and they later stated that all such altercations will be investigated, and offenders will be prosecuted when necessary. 遊東港愛車暫停宮廟私地  取車驚見宮主持鐵棍厲聲斥責

The mayor of Donggang Municipality recently paid a visit to locally stationed Air Force personnel to thank them for both their service and for assistance with disaster relief during typhoons.  東港鎮秋節敬軍  慰訪屏東駐軍


10. Nanjhou Township 南州鄉

The Huashan Foundation recently held an activity at Tong An Elementary which brought local teachers and students in contact with the elderly. 守護天使大募集  南州鄉700師生銅板傳愛心 (7)

Water was also (suddenly) in short supply in Nanjhou Township, with some residents accusing the water utility of mismanagement. 無預警停水逾50小時  台水惹民怨

Here's an article introducing the stinky tofu sold in front of a temple in Nanjhou. 排隊也要吃 !  南州代天府廟口 "2人氣小吃"  金黃臭豆腐超酥脆


11. Xinpi Township 新埤鄉

There was a singing competition held in a temple in Xinpi.  屏東新埤鄉萬安慈善宮以歌會友  美聲歡樂落幕

A senior citizen's home was recently opened in Xinpi.  Over 22% of the people in that township are over age 65. 在地安老屏東新埤中心啟用  一國中學區一日照

Several professors, as part of a program to help revitalize the local economy, visited Nanjhou and Xinpi townships in an effort to help farmers promote local agricultural products. 正修USR助新埤小農  推廣紅龍果  蓮霧在地果產

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1. Wandan is famous for its red bean cookies/cakes (紅豆餅).

2. They also make lemon tea in this community.  It's not bad.

3. It should be stated that the newfound emphasis on crops like lemons and red beans is part of the Pingtung County Government's attempt to get local farmers to stop growing betel nut.  It's not just a public health issue, betel nut trees have shallow roots and contribute to erosion.

4. The Pingtung County government has been trying to promote these churches as tourist attractions for a while.

5. I'm not saying anything untoward is going on, but building an ice rink sounds like a great way to funnel public funds away from the municipal government.  Who in Chaojhou would have any idea how much an "international-grade ice rink" is supposed to cost?  Or what materials and equipment should be used?  If you had a mind to charge $100 for a screw, it wouldn't be too hard to do so.

6. I can believe it.  There sure isn't much going on in Kanding.

7. I've attended a couple of these activities already.  There are many of them held in Pingtung County, which makes sense given declining birth rates and a rapidly aging population.  Sometimes they're good; sometimes they're incredibly fake.

2020年10月17日 星期六

If 如果


If I wasn't working right now I'd be at home, watching a movie.  I'd probably be watching a Bollywood movie, because I haven't seen a Bollywood movie in a while.  Bollywood movies can be fun if you're in the right mood. 現在沒上班的時間, 我會在家看影片.  因為很久沒看印度片了, 我目前大概看的是印度片 .  在特定的心情下, 其實印度片很有趣.

If I wasn't working tomorrow I'd be having a beer after work today.  As it is I DO have work tomorrow, so no beer for me! 如果我明天不用上班, 我今天晚上會喝啤酒.  可是我明天要上班, 所以不行.

If I didn't have work next week I'd be planning a trip to another part of Taiwan.  Maybe Taichung?  Jiayi? 如果我下禮拜不用上班, 我會考慮去外縣市玩.  可能是台中, 或是嘉義.

If Chinese New Year vacation was coming I'd be thinking about how to keep myself busy.  Too much unstructured time makes me depressed. 如果快放寒假了, 我會開始想我放假的時候要做什麼.  無所事事太久, 我的心情會變得很糟.

If COVID wasn't a thing I'd be thinking about going back to the States this summer.  Next year my sister will be having her first child, and I'd love to be there after that happens.  Unfortunately two weeks' quarantine after returning to Taiwan makes a trip back virtually impossible. 如果新冠肺炎不嚴重的話, 我會考慮這個暑假回去美國. 我妹妹快要生產了, 我想回去看看家人和她的寶寶, 可惜回來台灣之後要進行兩個禮拜的隔離, 所以應該沒辦法.

If Biden wins the election I'm going to be worried for Taiwan.  If Trump wins the election I'm going to be worried for the U.S.  I'm not sure which of the two candidates I dislike more.  If you ask me today I'll say Trump, but my answer might be different tomorrow. 美國大選到來, 如果拜登被選上, 我會擔心台灣的未來.  如果川普被選上, 我會擔心美國的未來.  我真不知道我比較不喜歡哪位候選人.  如果你今天問我, 我會回答川普, 可是明天有可能會回答拜登.

If the weather turns colder I'll be happy.  If it stays hot I'll be sad.  I'm tired of the heat. 如果天氣變冷點, 我會很開心.  如果繼續熱下去, 我會失望.  我對這麼長時間的熱氣厭煩了.

If work keeps going the way it's been going I'll be fine.  I've almost been here two months, and after the Reader's Theater competition and the sports days my job should be much easier. 如果我的工作繼續順利地進行, 未來也不會有問題.  我在這裡上班快兩個月了, 等到讀者劇場比賽跟兩所學校運動會過後, 我的工作一定會更順利.

If I finish typing (and translating) this by Friday, you'll be reading it on Monday.  But only if you happen upon this post that day.  And if you feel like reading it.  And if you're not too busy with your own job. 如果我禮拜五前把這文章寫完 (還有翻譯完) 的話, 你下禮拜一就可以看到.  如果你那一天注意到, 並且想讀.  如果你那一天不忙.

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2020年10月11日 星期日

Roaming Around Xinpi Township 新埤鄉一日遊

Xinpi is between Fangliao Township and Chaojhou Municipality.  It's divided in half by the Linbian River.  The western side of the river is more developed, with the largest settlement being Xinpi Village.  The eastern half is more mountainous, and thus more scenic. 新埤位於枋寮鄉潮州鎮中間.  林邊溪新埤鄉切成兩半.  林邊溪以西較發展, 新埤村是人口最多的村落.  林邊溪以東主要是山區, 風景比較美.

During the Ching Dynasty, Xinpi and Jiadong townships were one of the Hakka "Six Duei" settlements.  At that time they were known as the "Left Duei." 清朝的時候, 新埤佳冬是客家人六堆的一部分.  當時的新埤佳冬是為左堆.

According to the last census, there are 9,611 people living in Xinpi. 上次的人口統計顯示, 新埤的人口是9,611人.


Xinpi, by the way, doesn't have any tourist attractions.  There are some touristy restaurants along Highway 1, but that's about it. 新埤沒有什麼景點.  它在台1線上有些餐廳, 但沒有觀光設施.

The above picture was taken near the southeast corner of Xinpi, on a bridge which spans the Linbian River. 上面的照片是在新埤的東南部拍的, 在林邊溪的橋上.


This is Longtan Temple.  The lake is tiny.  It's just outside the village of Xiangtan. 這是龍潭寺.  這個湖很小, 位於餉潭村外.


This is also near the Linbian River. 這也是靠近林邊溪.


This unfinished temple is on the other side of Xiangtan.這所沒完成的廟在餉潭村的另外一邊.


More pineapples, northeast of that temple. 廟的東北邊的鳳梨.


Near the northeast corner of Xinpi.  On the other side of the river is Laiyi Township. 在新埤的東北部.  溪的另一邊是來義鄉.


The Linbian River again, but further west.  This river has two forks, both of which pass through Xinpi. 這也是林邊溪, 比較西邊的一段.  林邊溪有兩條支流, 這兩條支流經過新埤鄉.


Dragonfruit orchard east of Xinpi Village. 新埤村東部的紅龍果園.


Same spot, looking in the other direction. 同一個地點的另外一邊.


No, it's not Rocky.  This local athlete inhabits Xinpi's Recreational Park.  It's a surprisingly big, surprisingly nice place. 那位先生不是你想的Rocky.  他住在新埤鄉綜合休閒公園.  這個公園出乎意料地又大又漂亮.


There are many betel nut farms nearby. 附近有很多檳榔田.


And this is Xinpi Village, on Highway 1.  It has its own PX Mart AND its own 7-11.  Life is good in Xinpi Village. 這是台1線上的新埤村新埤村全聯又有7-11新埤村民的生活過得非常好!


North of Xinpi Village is Da Tie ("Ironwork") Village.  Not sure if this temple is unfinished or abandoned. 新埤往北走會到打鐵村.  這所空空的廟就在那裏.


Da Tie Village seems to have its share of local history.  打鐵應該有一段特別的歷史.


On the opposite side of the township from Da Tie is this reservoir, which now stands empty.  Across from it is the "Big Chaojhou Groundwater Lake Replenishment Monitoring Center," likewise empty. 新埤鄉的另外一邊有這個沒水的水庫.  水庫對面有 "大潮州地下水補注湖監空中心."


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2020年10月5日 星期一

枋寮漁樂線 Fishy Things To Do In Fangliao


The Chinese below was taken from "A New Appreciation of Fishing" 漁樂新視界.  The Chinese was written by 光啟社 and the English was written/translated by me.  There will be four of these entries, covering the ports in Pingtung County.


枋寮漁樂線
Fishy Things to Do in Fangliao

枋寮是南台灣的漁鄉重鎮, 素有 "魩之鄉" 的稱號, 養殖漁業非常的興盛, 平常我們餐桌上吃的, 或是宣宴客用的海鮮, 很多都是來自枋寮地區喔! Fangliao is an important fishing township in south Taiwan.  It's referred to as "whitebait town," and the fish farming industry there is very prosperous.  Much of the seafood we eat in our homes or seafood restaurants comes from Fangliao! (1)

枋寮除了漁產養殖非常興盛之外, 隨處可見樸實的漁鄉風情.  如果想要認識枋寮的漁鄉風情, 可以參加枋寮區漁會舉辦的漁業休閒旅遊活動, 豐富的行程絕對讓你滿意喔! Aside from fish farming, in Fangliao you can see simple fishing villages everywhere.  If you want to get to know these fishing villages, you can take part in fishing-related tourist activities sponsored by the Fangliao District Fishing Association.  Their rich itineraries are sure to satisfy! (2)


How to go?

坐火車到枋寮是最方便的交通工具.  f開車的民眾, 可以從國道三號下林邊交流道, 接台17線往枋寮方向, 就可以低達枋寮了. Fangliao is most conveniently reached by train.  For those driving cars, you can take the Formosa Freeway (#3) to the Linbian exit.  From there you can take Highway 17 all the way to Fangliao. (3)

精彩樂活
Memories in the Making


枋寮藝術村 Fangliao F3 Arts Village

枋寮藝術村位於枋寮火車站旁, 原本是枋寮火車站3號創庫, 現在已經規劃成一處藝術展演的空間, 許多藝術家都在園區內展示自己的藝術創, 作值得你用心探索和品味喔! The Fangliao F3 Arts Village is located next to the Fangliao Train Station.  It was originally the #3 Maintenance Facility for the Fangliao Train Station, but has been re-designated a performance/display space for artists.  Many artists display their work in this area, and it's a place worth seeking out. (4)


水底寮古厝群 The Old Residences in Shuidiliao

枋寮水底寮古厝群, 建築年代大約在80年至120年之間, 特色是紅磚紅牆中國式的建築, 其中枋寮鄉保生社區的 "大條巷", 是清末民初時期舊有建築物的保留巷道, 仍保有當時的文化特色, 有興趣的民眾不妨一探. The group of old houses in Shuidiliao Village, Fangliao Township range from between 80 to 120 years old.  A special thing about them is their red walls, built of red bricks in the Chinese style.  Within this group of buildings is Fangliao's Baosheng Community, where the "Long Alley" is located.  [The houses along this alley] were built between the end of the Ching Dynasty and the [arrival of] the Republic of China, and retain characteristics from that time.  Those interested should give them a look. (5)


魩仔魚冰棒 Whitebait Popsicles

枋寮盛產名聞全國的魩仔魚, 為了推廣魩仔魚, 枋寮區漁會特別推出 "魩仔魚冰棒", 受到許多民眾的喜愛.  魩仔魚擁有豐富的鈣質, 裝成的冰棒, 口感獨特無腥味, 營養價值高, 是民眾來枋寮絕對不能錯過的美味. Fangliao is famous all over Taiwan for the whitebait it produces, and in order to promote this local product the Fangliao District Fishing Association has produced "whitebait popsicles," which are loved by many people.  The calcium-rich whitebait are frozen into popsicle form, and have a unique taste without retaining a fishy smell.  They are very nutritious, and are a delicacy visitors to Fangliao shouldn't miss. (6)

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1. Very prosperous?  Let's just say that this book was written in 2012, and local fish farms aren't doing as well as they once were.  Part of the reason is a declining population, another part of the reason is the disappearance of Mainland Chinese tourists.

Grouper 石斑魚 was mentioned in the "Fishy Things to do Around Linyuan and Donggang" post.  Grouper is also farmed in Fangliao.  Shin Loong 新龍 Village, north of the Fangliao Train Station, is well known for the grouper it produces.  Mangrove red snapper, abalone, snubnose pompano, two types of bream, freshwater prawns and tiger prawns are also farmed in the area.  When I think back to strolls through Taitung's Central Market, I now realize that many of the fish for sale there were probably shipped in from Fangliao

2. No mention of any fishing-related activities for tourists on the local fishing association's website.  I've also been by their headquarters recently, and there was no tourist activity visible. 

3. In other words, just follow the route to Kenting.  You'll pass through Fangliao on the way.

4. Is this space still being used?  It's hard to tell.  It's not an especially interesting or photogenic area.  I suspect that everyone involved gave up on it a while ago.  A few restaurants have opened along that road/alley recently, but they have nothing to do with art or artists.

5. NOT worth seeking out.  I live on the hill above Shuidiliao, and pass through it twice a day.  Like the Arts Village above, it's neither interesting nor photogenic.  I will say, however, that the estimate of the residences' age seems conservative.  I'm pretty sure some of them are well over 120 years old.

6. These popsicles aren't available anymore.  Guess they weren't that loved after all?

Sights


S U N R I S E     T E S N U S

Tossing and turning, turning and tossing...

Eyes open in a room. Sunlight filtered through an old red curtain. A white wall where my wife just was.

Walking down cracked marble stairs between flaking paint. Cats scatter before me. Going 

D                    D
O               O
W          W
N     N

Until a left takes me into the kitchen.  The canned cat food is in the white plastic container; the dry cat food is in another white plastic container.  I mix the two kinds of cat food together as my cats meow back and forth.

I'm in the living room trying to wake up, with a mug full.of water in my hand. I'm lying on a sofa covered in red cloth, which is in turn covered in cat hair. I'm looking up at the blue and white clock on the wall, trying to decide how many minutes I have before I leave for work.

Outside. I slide back the metal gate as I pull my black mountain bike out onto the road. The judgmental Buddhist from two doors over says good morning. I get on my bike slowly in front of the empty lot full of farming equipment. The sun is already blazing in the sky; the mango trees shimmer in the heat.

D                    D
O               O
W          W
N     N

...the hill out of the village, through the old houses, past the still older temples, and into the midst of fruit trees that wave upward between electrical towers.

I take a right at the red light because it's early and no one cares. There's a forested ridge on my right, with farmland sloping down to my left. I see thousands of pineapples, worth a fortune to any farmer lucky or hardworking enough to sell them all.  There are small villages beyond the fields, both half empty and half full of quiet desperation.

The pineapple fields give way to planted trees.  Along a bicycle trail I turn down another highway and the 

H                    H
I                I
L          L
L     L

...extends for miles beneath me. The bicycle moves of its own volition, with glimpses of pump stations, agricultural research stations, banana plantations and even just plain old farmland, lying fallow. I dodge tiny rocks in the interest of preserving my tires, while the light at the bottom of the hill speeds up at me.

And who is it that I see?  Waving at me from across the road?  Why does he look so familiar?

I pedal to the opposite side of the highway, where I bounce down a rocky trail between farms,across a creek fouled by runoff from a poultry operation, through a graveyard left to rot, between the husklike houses and into a busier place: a noisy little town.

M I D D A Y     Y A D D I M

From a noisy little town, a busier place between the husklike houses, through a graveyard left to rot, across a creek fouled by runoff from a poultry operation, to a rocky trail where I pedal between farms to the opposite side of the highway.

And who is it that I see?  Waving at me from across the road?  Why does he look so familiar?

I dodge tiny rocks in the interest of preserving my tires, while the light at the bottom of the hill speeds away from me.  The bicycle moves of its own volition, with glimpses of plain old farmland, lying fallow, banana plantations, agricultural research stations and pump stations.  While beneath me extends the

H     H
I          I
L               L
L                    L

And along the highway I turn down a bicycle trail as the planted trees give way to pineapple fields.

There are small villages beyond the fields, both half empty and half full of desperation.  I see thousands of pineapples, worth a fortune to any farmer hardworking or lucky enough to sell them all.  There's farmland sloping down to my right, and a forested ridge to my left.  I take a left at the red light because it's late and no one cares.

Into the midst of fruit trees that wave downward between electrical towers, past the old temples, through the still older houses, on the hill into the village

D     D
O          O
W               W
N                    N

The mango trees shimmer in the heat, the sun is already blazing in the sky.  I get off my bike slowly in front of the empty lot full of farming equipment.  The judgmental Buddhist from two doors over says good evening.  Outside, I slide the metal gate open as I pull my black mountain bike into the front yard.

I'm looking at the blue and white clock on the wall, trying to decide how many hours before I fall asleep.  I'm lying on a sofa covered in cat hair, which is in turn covered in red cloth.  I'm in the living room trying not to fall asleep, with a mug full of water in my hand.

The cats meow back and forth.  I mix the two kinds of cat food together.  The dry cat food is in the white plastic container, the canned cat food is in another white plastic container.  Then I take a right up the stairs.

D     D
O          O
W               W
N                    N

Walking up cracked marble stairs between flaking paint.  Cats scattered behind me.  Going.

A white wall where my wife now is.  Moonlight filtered through an old red curtain.  Eyes closed in a room.

Turning and tossing, tossing and turning...

S U N S E T     E S I R N U S


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