2020年3月27日 星期五

Roaming Around Pingtung 屏東一日遊

This weekend I'll be going to Pingtung.  I was over there last weekend too.  Lately I'm finding it a fun area to explore.  There's nothing earth-shatteringly interesting in Pingtung, but it's relatively close to where I live. 這周末我要去屏東.  我上周末也去了.  我最近喜歡去探索屏東.  雖然屏東沒有什麼超級好玩的地方, 可是它比較靠近我家.

Last Sunday we drove around between Fangliao, which is to the north, and Checheng, which is closer to Kenting.  You might think it was a nightmarish drive, but provided you stay away from Highway 1 it's not bad.  I've never been a huge fan of Kenting, but greater Pingtung County has a certain weirdness I find appealing. 上禮拜天我們去枋寮車城.  你可能以為那裏的交通很差, 可是如果不走台1線, 其實就沒有問題.  我不是很喜歡墾丁, 反而屏東比較鄉下的地方比較吸引我.

Fangliao is about two hours from where we live in Taitung City.  From Taitung City you drive south down Highway 9, pass through the new tunnel between southern Taitung County and Pingtung County, and after hitting the west coast Fangliao is just a short jaunt north.  It has a train station and a fishing port, and the most famous thing there (if you can call it famous) is a blue bridge stretching over this port.  The coastline thereabouts is not pretty, but Fangliao isn't far from more scenic places. 枋寮離我們台東市的家兩小時.  從台東市開車走台9線往南.  通過台東縣和屏東縣中間的隧道, 之後就到了台灣西部.  從那裡往北, 很快就到枋寮枋寮有車站還有漁港, 最有名的景點是漁港的藍色的橋.  附近的海岸不是很漂亮, 可是枋寮離風景好的地方很近.

From Fangliao, Checheng is a half hour south.  Highway 1 is the only way to get between the two places, and traffic along Highway 1 varies between "Where did everybody go?" and "Damn this is taking forever."  It really depends on when you're driving.  North on a Sunday afternoon is BAD.  South on the first day of a big holiday weekend is HORRIFIC.  South on a Sunday afternoon?  Not bad at all. 台1線枋寮車城唯一的路, 開車要半個小時.  有時候台1線的交通很順暢, 有時候塞車很嚴重,  這得看你什麼時候開車上那條路.  通常禮拜日的下午往北的車道和連假的第一天往南的車道很塞.  禮拜日下午往南走呢?  沒有什麼問題.

I like Checheng a lot.  It's a cute little town.  East of Checheng is the Sizhongxi Hot Spring Area, one of the most overlooked hot spring areas in Taiwan.  The road to Sizhongxi also leads up to the Mudan Reservoir, and from there it passes through a series of isolated villages and back into Taitung County.  It's a weird drive with some good trails along the way. 我很喜歡車城車城是一個很可愛的鄉鎮.  車城東邊有四重溪溫泉區, 那裏的觀光客不多.  往四重溪的那條路也會經過牡丹水庫.  牡丹水庫之後會經過一些部落, 最後到達台東縣.  那條路很有趣, 附近也有很多步道. 

Checheng is north of Hengchun, a city/town famous for the Ching Dynasty-era walls and gates that encircle the "downtown" area.  Hengchun is more historic than Checheng, it's closer to Kenting, and the coast line near there is prettier.  But there's a genuineness to Checheng, and it's much easier for me to get to.* 車城位於恆春北邊.  恆春市區最有名的是清代的城牆跟城門.  恆春車城還有歷史感, 也比較靠近墾丁, 海岸線風景也比較美, 可是車城具有真實感.  我們開車到那裏也很方便.

Last Sunday, when we were there, we didn't do much.  We parked in front of Checheng Elementary School, and from there we walked around the town.  We ate seafood at the Nan Bei "Hotel," and after that we walked down what must have been Checheng's "Old Street" to a big temple. 我們上週日在車城沒有做什麼.  我們把車停在車城國小前面, 在那附近走走, 也在南北飯店吃飯, 並從一條老街到福安宮.

After visiting Checheng we drove up to Jiadong Township.  Jiadong is just north of Fangliao.  Jiadong is the kind of place where aquaculture ponds compete for space with farms, sketchy factories and cemeteries.  I'm still not sure where "downtown" Jiadong is - if there is indeed such a place - and most of that township is just villages strung out between plots of land. 繼車城之後我們去佳冬鄉.  佳冬位於枋寮的北邊.  佳冬是個有魚池, 農田, 小工廠和墳墓聚集在一起的地區.  我還不知道佳冬市區在哪裡, 也不知道有沒有這種地方.  佳冬大部分就是小小的鄉村.

A winding country road took us back to Fangliao.  Jiadong and Fangliao are only minutes from each other.  We visited the local 85 coffee shop, and afterward strolled into the Fangliao Train Station.  It was getting late, we were tired, and it was time to head back home. 我們走鄉路回去枋寮.  從佳冬開車到枋寮只要幾分鐘.  我們去枋寮85度C咖啡, 也進去枋寮車站.  時間漸晚, 我們也累了,  是時候回家了.

When I go back there this weekend I'd like to explore some of the places north of Jiadong, like Linbian, Da Peng Bay and Donggang.  There's a lot of interesting stuff up there, and that part of Taiwan isn't that popular with tourists. 我這周末去的時候想去比較北邊的地區, 像林邊, 大鵬灣東港.  那附近有很多很有特色的地方, 也沒有那麼多的觀光客.

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Note 1: I didn't take any of the pictures in this entry.  I took a lot of pictures while I was there, but the only pictures that turned out well were taken near the aquarium, which is beyond the scope of this entry.

Note 2: Almost all of the English spellings in this entry were taken from Google Maps.  How does 四重溪 become "Sizhongxi?"  I have no idea.

*Kenting National Park and its famous night market/downtown are actually located in Hengchun Municipality.  I'm differentiating here between "downtown" Hengchun and "downtown" Kenting.  Checheng's share of the coast also extends quite a ways south past the aquarium.