I've lived in Taitung City for 12 years. Over these years the city has undergone some changes, though in a place this rural the changes are sometimes difficult to spot. If I think hard, I can remember the way things were. 我住台東市十二年. 這十二年中, 這個城市經過些改變. 在這個鄉下地方有的改變看不出來, 如果我努力回想, 就能想起這些地方以前的樣子.
1. The area around the Showtime Multiplex/Tiehua Village/the Eslite Bookstore 秀泰影城 / 鐵花村 / 誠品書店的地區
I first visited Taitung City in 2000. Back then the train ran straight into downtown. There were cows grazing in fields near there. There was a big bus depot not far away. No big movie theater, no bookstore, and no Starbuck's Coffee. When the train wasn't passing through it was dead quiet, and the only thing to do in that area was walk up Li Yu Mountain. 我是西元2000年時第一次來台東市. 那時候火車站在市區. 火車站附近的空地有牛, 公車站也在附近. 那時沒有影城, 沒有書店, 也沒有星巴克. 沒有火車經過的時候很安靜, 觀光客在這一區只有鯉魚山可以去.
2. The Naruwan Hotel 娜路彎大酒店
The Naruwan Hotel used to be a lot bigger deal than it is now. Now it's just one hotel among many. When I first moved here it was a local landmark, something people referenced a lot more. The hotel's business seems to be thriving, but it's definitely not as "local" as it once was. 以前娜路彎大飯店比現在重要. 現在它只是很多飯店中的一間飯店而已. 我剛搬到台東的時候, 娜路彎就是一個地標, 很多人會用它介紹往其他地方的路線. 現在那間飯店的生意還是好好的, 可是它 "在地的"感覺慢慢消失了.
3. The Flowing Lake and the Forest Park 活水湖跟森林公園
When I first moved here no one cared about the Flowing Lake, and anyone who wanted to was free to swim to the other end. No water slide, no zip line, and no one trying to develop/make money off the place. It was great. They also used to hold the dragon boat races there. 我剛搬到台東的時候, 沒有人管理活水湖. 大家都可以自由的游到另外一邊. 沒有水上滑梯, 沒有溜索, 也沒有人利用那個地方賺錢或提出什麼發展計畫. 那時候超讚的. 以前那裏也舉辦龍過舟比賽.
For that matter, the Forest Park was a lot prettier 10 years ago. It was more natural, and less developed. The County Government likes to blame a certain typhoon for the change, but in my opinion that area was never managed well. Look down at it the next time you're passing over the Jung Hua Bridge, on your way into town. If there's an activity there, you'll see that they're now using the grassy area as a parking lot. 再來, 十年前的森林公園比較漂亮. 比較自然, 較少人為的管理. 縣政府都說改變的原因是之前的莫拉克颱風災害, 可是我認為那個公園從來沒被管理好. 你下次經過中華橋往市區的時候, 看看橋下面, 那裏舉辦活動的時候大草原就變成一座停車場.
4. Restaurants 餐廳
There are certain restaurants that haven't stood the test of time. Formaggio's Pizza, the Pirates burger place, the Taitung Subway, Pasadena, the aboriginal restaurant/bar next to the Taiping River, some brunch places, and so on. Some of these places were convenient, some were good, and some were both. 有的餐廳已經倒了. Formaggio's義式餐廳, 海盜漢堡餐廳, 台東的Subway, Pasadena, 太平溪岸的原住民餐廳跟酒吧, 一些早午餐店, 還有其他的餐廳. 這些餐廳中有的很方便, 有的好吃, 有的二者兼備.
5. Who's 胡酒吧
Back in the day Taitung had VERY few bars, and many of the bars were not places you'd want to find yourself at 2 a.m. When I wanted to drink AND see other foreign people it was either Who's or the local convenience store. I think I took Who's for granted when it was around, but I sometimes miss it now. 以前台東的酒吧不多, 而且有的酒吧不適合深夜的時候去. 我以前想跟外國朋友喝酒只有兩個選擇: 胡酒吧跟便利商店. 那家酒吧還在營業的時候我不常去, 可是我現在有時會想念那個地方.*
6. Traffic 塞車
There wasn't any. Not if you go back a decade or so. Now there is. (Sigh) 以前沒有. 十年前沒有. 現在有. 好可惜...
7. Han Dan Festival 邯鄲夜
Has anyone else been to this lately? It's a shadow of its former self. It used to be EVERYWHERE, now you're not sure if it's actually going to happen, or when. 最近有人參加過這個活動嗎? 這個活動的現狀跟以前差很多. 以前到處都有, 都很明顯, 現在常常都不清楚會不會有或什麼時候有.
8. The area near the (newer) train station 台東車站附近
They moved the train station to a location near Beinan Mountain. Back then there was NOTHING in that area, now it's full of homestays, hotels and convenience stores. It's still not a place I'd hang out - although I do run through there once a week - but they seem to be making a lot of money off tourists. 火車站遷移到卑南山附近. 那時候新火車站附近真是沒有什麼東西, 現在那邊到處都有民宿, 飯店跟便利商店. 我不是很喜歡在那附近 - 除了一星期一次跑步經過- 附近似乎發了許多的觀光財.
9. Carrefour and the Sheraton 家樂福跟桂田喜來登酒店
Carrefour is a newer development. When I first moved here we all went to RT Mart, sometimes just to visit the KFC and San Shang Chiao Fu beef noodles inside. 家樂福比較新. 我剛搬到台東的時候都去大潤發, 有時候目的只是裡面的肯德基或是三商巧福牛肉麵.
The Sheraton? That building was empty for the longest time. It was originally some kind of failed hotel project (I remember a dolphin theme), and the building wasn't remodeled until fairly recently. 桂田呢? 那棟大樓空了很久沒有主人. 他們原來的計畫是在那個地方開別的飯店 (我記得牆壁上有海豚), 近幾年才重新整修完成.
10. Taitung University 台東大學
Taitung University has moved down to Jer Ben, which is, I believe, still inside Taitung City limits. They still do... something at the old campus, though I'm not sure what that something is. In some ways the downtown area was a lot more vibrant when all those college students were living and studying on the old campus, but I get why the university wanted to move south. 台東大學搬到知本. 知本好像還在台東市裡. 我不確定他們如何利用大學的舊校園, 但是舊校區還是使用中的. 我了解為什麼大學要搬到知本的原因, 可是當時那些大學生住在市區的時候比較熱鬧.
Related Entries 相關的文章:
Xia Bin Lang to Yan Tsao Jian 下賓朗到煙草間
Hello, Taitung Person 台東人妳好 11
What's Going in Taitung City and County Townships/Municipalities 台東市,鄉,鎮最近動向 5
*Kasa might have been around 10-12 years ago too, but it took me a while to discover Kasa, and when I finally did an experience I had there put me off it for some time. Kasa is still around, but last time I went there the service was terrible. I asked some foreign friends about it recently, and they all said they hadn't been there for a long time.
P.S. Honorable mentions! I asked some of my coworkers about this topic and it turned into a raging discussion. They came up with:
1. The Taiwan convenience stores that you used to see downtown. I visited these a couple times, but don't remember much about them.
2. A few restaurants I'd never been to.
3. The old Da Tong Movie Theater, which I was never that fond of.
4. San Shang "Department Store," which used to be on Shin Sheng Road.
P.P.S. Also people, but that's a more personal thing. Respect for, and fond memories of, V.P., D.K., and R.S., who are no longer with us. Also best wishes to those who've moved away.