2018年9月8日 星期六

Bali Vs. Taitung 峇里島和台東的比較

Lovina, north Bali.

What do Bali, Indonesia and Taitung, Taiwan have in common?  Well, for one thing they're both tropical.  For another thing they're both vacation destinations.  And for yet another thing I've been to both of them recently.  印尼的峇里島跟台灣的台東有什麼相同的地方?  它們都屬於熱帶氣候.  也是度假勝地.  並且是我最近去過的地方.

I visited Bali for two weeks between the end of July and the beginning of August.  We took the train from Taitung to Taipei, and from Taipei we flew to Hong Kong, where we boarded another flight to Denpasar, Bali.  Not counting the train to Taipei, the trip to Bali took about five hours.  我在七月底八月初去峇里二個禮拜.  我們從台東坐火車到台北, 從台北坐飛機到香港, 再從香港轉機到峇里島的丹帕莎.  除了坐火車到台北的時間之外, 到峇里還要五個小時左右.


North of Shanyuan Beach, Taitung.

For those unfamiliar with Bali, it's a province of Indonesia.  It takes up 5,780 square kilometers of the Earth's surface, and over four million people live there.  Most people in Bali are Hindu, which sets them apart from Indonesia's Muslim majority.  Bali is only 8 degrees south of the equator, and is prone, like the rest of Indonesia, to earthquakes.  這是給不了解峇里的讀者, 峇里是印尼的小省.  它的面積是5780平方公里左右, 人口是四百萬.  大部分的峇里人是印度教徒, 跟印尼的主要信仰伊斯蘭教不一樣.  峇里位於南半球緯度8度, 常常發生地震.

Taitung is a county on Taiwan's east coast.  It takes up 3,515 square kilometers, and a little over two hundred thousand people live here.  I wasn't able to find statistics on religion, but IF Taitung follows the national average then most people here are Buddhist.  Taitung is about 25 degrees north of the equator, and sits right on the boundary between tropical and subtropical climates.  Taitung is also prone to earthquakes, as everyone living here knows.  台東是台灣東部的縣.  它的面積是3515平方公里, 人口有20萬人.  我找不到台東縣的宗教總計, 如果台東和台灣其他的縣市一樣, 大部分的住民應該是佛教徒.  台東位於北半球25度, 也常常發生地震.


King's Palace, Ubud, Bali.

Religion is the most obvious difference between Bali and Taitung.  In Bali you hear people talk about Vishnu, Brahma, and Shiva as if they were old friends.  By contrast Taitung's religious climate is more of a mixed bag, with temples often standing right  next to churches.  Of course Bali also has its share of mosques, but you'd never mistake Bali for a Muslim country.  宗教的差別是峇里跟台東最明顯的特色.  峇里人都會像談論老朋友一樣的談論他們的毗濕奴, 梵跟濕婆.  台東的宗教環境比較混亂, 到處都有廟跟教堂在一起.  峇里當然也有伊斯蘭教堂, 可是不會有人錯認峇里主要信仰是伊斯蘭教.

This and other cultural differences filter down into interactions between locals and non-locals.  People in Bali are, I think, a lot less "shy" than most people in Taitung.  Part of this has to do with the fact that Bali's economy is based almost exclusively on tourism, whereas Taitung's is more evenly divided between tourism and agriculture.  Balinese who don't learn to interact with non-Balinese face limited job opportunities, while people in Taitung have fewer reasons to initiate conversations with non-locals.  宗教和文化的不同影響了當地人跟觀光客的交流.  我覺得峇里人沒有台東人那麼害羞.  部分的原因是峇里島的經濟主要靠觀光業.  台東的經濟則較平均的分成觀光業和農業.  不會跟觀光客交流的峇里人的工作機會比較少, 可是台東人沒那麼多理由跟觀光客交流.


Temple on Highway 197, Taitung.

Both situations can be good, depending on your situation.  In Bali you're never at a loss for someone to help you do something, though of course they're expecting money for it.  In Taitung people have more of their own thing going on, and are less likely to bother people they don't know.  Anyone's who's traveled in Southeast Asia is familiar with the irritating presence of hawkers constantly trying to sell you things, while in parts of Taitung you'd have trouble just finding a decent restaurant.  這二個狀況都有好處.  峇里到處都有人要幫你的忙, 可是最後都要服務費.  台東人比較忙他們自己的事, 不會麻煩不認識的人.  去過東南亞的旅客大概都碰過到處都有小販兜售的麻煩, 而台東是有的地方連餐廳都找不到.

In environmental terms, however, Taitung wins easily.  There is so much less traffic in Taitung, and it's so much easier to travel around the county.  Most of Bali, especially near the airport, is a continual traffic jam, and going from places like Kuta and Seminyak to less traveled parts can be a real challenge.  對環境保護來說台東一定好很多.  台東沒有那麼多車, 在縣內旅行比較順利.  在峇里越靠機場越塞車.  從人最多的庫塔或水明漾到比較鄉下的地方交通很不方便.


Roadside garbage, Singaraja, Bali.

Then there's the issue of plastic.  Bali, though strikingly beautiful in parts, is literally awash in plastics, and it's not unusual to see beaches littered with soft drink bottles and other trash.  A few years ago Bali even declared a "plastic emergency," just to give you a sense of how serious the problem is.  I know I often complain about pollution and littering in Taitung, but Taitung is still much cleaner than Bali.  還有塑膠的問題.  峇里有的地方非常漂亮, 可是到處都有塑膠類的垃圾.  這個問題在很多沙灘很明顯.  幾年前峇里政府發出一個 "塑膠急難" , 因為這個問題非常嚴重.  我知道我常常在這裡討論抱怨台東的環保問題, 可是台東真是比峇里好很多.

And the food?  I think that on a daily basis I'd prefer Chinese food to Balinese cuisine.  For the most part I liked the food I had there (especially the fish steamed in banana leaves), but I'd take dumplings, beef noodles, and stir-fry over nasi ayam, satay, and babi guling any day of the week.  I will say, however, that the food in Bali is definitely more affordable, and finding Western favorites like pizza and burgers is no problem there.  食物呢?  我想日常食物來說, 我比較喜歡中國料理.  我覺得在峇里吃的食物很不錯 (特別喜歡包在香蕉葉裡蒸的魚), 可是餃子, 牛肉麵跟快炒都比nasi ayam, satay跟babi guling好吃.  可是我也想說在峇里去餐廳吃飯比較划算, 吃西式料理也是沒有問題的.


Balinese foods.

To my mind the only thing Bali really has over Taitung is weather.  When weather in Taitung is soaring between scorching hot and almost chilly, the weather in Bali is pretty much the same all year.  They don't even need to worry about typhoons.  The entire time we were in Bali the temperature was between 25 and 27 degrees Celsius, far more comfortable than the 30+ degrees my friends and coworkers were dealing with in Taitung.  我想峇里比台東好的地方只有天氣.  台東的天氣不是30幾度很熱就是很冷, 峇里的天氣整年都差不多.  他們也不用擔心颱風.  我們在峇里的時候, 溫度都在25到27度之間, 比我台東的同事和朋友們忍耐的30幾度好很多.

Taitung and Bali are also both surfing destinations.  Since I'm not a surfer myself I can't comment specifically on surfing conditions in each place, but it seemed to me that Bali had better, more consistent waves.  The downside to this is that Bali is already famous for surfing, so the number of surfers visiting Kuta, Double Six, or Nusa Dua on a given morning is RIDICULOUS.  You can see dozens of people carrying surfboards at every intersection, all the time.  Multiply those dozens of people by the number of intersections and you have a whole lot of of surfers going to the same handful of beaches.  台東跟峇里這兩個地方都是衝浪景點.  我自己不是衝浪者, 所以沒辦法仔細討論峇里的衝浪狀況, 可是我覺得峇里的海浪應該比較適合衝浪活動.  問題是衝浪在峇里已經非常有名, 每天早上庫塔, Double Six或Nusa Dua的衝浪人數已經過多.  每天在每個路口都會看到很多人帶著衝浪板, 想想那麼多路口, 那麼多人, 每個沙灘的衝浪者一定非常多.


Sunrise over the Beinan River, Taitung.

Would I go back to Bali?  Probably not.  I've been to enough islands in Southeast Asia to know there are better ones out there.  If I was a tourist, contemplating both places for the first time, would I choose Bali over Taitung?  Maybe.  If you hadn't been to Southeast Asia before, yeah, you'll probably have a memorable experience in Bali.  If, however, you've already been to the region, you'll probably be disappointed with it.  And I also have the feeling there are better, less touristy places in Indonesia itself.  我會想回去峇里玩嗎?  大概不會.  我已經去過東南亞幾個小島, 所以我知道有比較好的.  那如果我是沒有去過東南亞的觀光客, 我會選峇里嗎?  有可能.  如果沒有去過東南亞的話, 你應該覺得峇里很好玩.  去過其他東南亞地區的旅客應該會對峇里失望.  我想印尼還有更好的地方.

Besides all of the above there's another plus to Taitung: everything doesn't smell like clove cigarettes.  I've been back for over two weeks already, and I can still smell them in the souvenirs I brought back from Indonesia's "Island of the Gods."  除了以上的事情, 台東還有更好的部分: 沒有丁香香菸的味道.  我已經回來兩個禮拜了, 可是我在那裏買的紀念品還有丁香香菸的味道呵!


Krishna Water Park, north Bali.

Related Entries 相關的文章:

Around the Taitung Train Station 在台東車站附近
What's Going in Taitung City and County Townships/Municipalities 台東市,鄉,鎮最近動向 4
Riding Around Jer Ben 在知本騎摩托車
Hello Taitung Person 台東人你好 2

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